Korean arcade parts discussion

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  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    YOOO, is there like a method to remove grommet? This seems like the toughest task in modding.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,847
    edited December 6
    NGY4M wrote: »
    YOOO, is there like a method to remove grommet? This seems like the toughest task in modding.

    You sort of need to stretch one end of it from the middle and pull it out. It's a bit tough but that's how you do it.
    Chumpy wrote: »

    Anyone know if this shaft uses Fanta specification (fit in myoungshin/taeyoung) or Crown (309)?
    I really want a green shaft for my fanta.

    The shaft will likely fit a 309 just fine but not a Myoungshin or a Taeyoung as the shaft's insert side is bigger. Might as well get this and put the shaft in the 309.
  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    edited December 6
    NGY4M wrote: »
    YOOO, is there like a method to remove grommet? This seems like the toughest task in modding.

    You sort of need to stretch one end of it from the middle and pull it out. It's a bit tough but that's how you do it.

    Managed to do it, apparently, you need to apply pressure on the spool and bend the rubber. But mainly pressure on the spool.
  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    @wazwuz Btw, i managed to install the green fanta mod on my myoungshin and its making really weird noises. Im using the 35a silicone with the green mod shaft and actuator ,switch support and gersungs a2.
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Fanta & Crown Project Joined: Posts: 425
    NGY4M wrote: »
    @wazwuz Btw, i managed to install the green fanta mod on my myoungshin and its making really weird noises. Im using the 35a silicone with the green mod shaft and actuator ,switch support and gersungs a2.

    Try to lubricate the shaft (lower parts) using silicone grease.
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    @wazwuz The sound doesn't sound something that a silicone would make. I'll upload it tomorrow. Im gonna go head to bed.
  • LBGLBG Joined: Posts: 76
    Quick Question: I frequently have problems hitting diagonal directions on my 309HelpMe so I switched back to my Fanta which I have no problems hitting inputs with. Soon I will be getting a 309mj to put into my TES+ and I was wondering if I might come across the same problem. I like the lighter feeling of the HelpMe but the precision of the Fanta. What exactly can I take off of my Fanta/HelpMe to give me the best product on my MJ when it comes in? Is it the switches that are the problem or the actuator?
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 203
    @blankaex will do man I'll be post my results here.
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 203
    @LBG depends on the switches you have on the helpme. I'm assuming it either has A2s or Am5s but depending when you bought it Then it should be am5s. If you have A2s on them then switching to A3s will fix this issue since a3s increase the range of diagonals. A2s don't work well with the stock 309 actuator which is why the 309 and mj all come willth a3s meow. If you have am5s then I don't know what to say other than trying a smaller actuator. From my experience 14.5- 15mm actuator use a2s/ am5s but anything between 15.5 and up use A3s.
  • LBGLBG Joined: Posts: 76
    @zero_requiem on my HelpMe I have AM5's and on the Fanta I have Gersung GSM-V1623A2's. The actuator on the Fanta LOOKS bigger but I can't really tell.. I also hear the HelpMe actuator is good but I know Gersung switches are dope. The problem with my diagonal inputs is from the switches? I'm sort of confused as to why this happens. Mechanically I understand but the best remedy would be to replace the switches or the actuator? Sorry if I sound retarded asking these questions lol
  • MariosMarios Joined: Posts: 57
    edited December 6
    Yeah Fujin v2 is one of the best levers ive used so far aswell , after using one to master what ever i can in the game , i can say its really a great lever the issues with it is it fatiques you pretty fast , recently i bought 2 more fujin levers for some mod purposes with all the available Fujin actuators the creator had available . After alot alot of testing i ended up realising i cant find the sweet spot so i installed both levers on my both arcadesticks , one is a stock fujin stiff AF and its gonna be my tournament stick for short sets one of my favorite levers so stable .
    And the other one am gonna keep it for home and long sets , i moded it with a 35A white silicone grommet from golden fanta mod kit and 14,7mm actuator , an issue with that mod is that it wubbles a tiny bit , and the biggest issue wich why am writing all these so maybe few gnostics give some insight @zero_requiem is that the shaft is turning around (twirls? spins inside the bushing) ... so on tight spots when you wanna do a fast backdash ewgf or sidestep ewgf sometimes it spins and your hand gets off the lever or feels uncomfy makes the follow up or backdash a stress experience dunno if you feel me , if i fix that somehow it would be almost the perfect lever for long sets for me , i do not want it like the kaze v3 that its super hard to spin the shaft around i would like it as the stock brand new fujin that its possible. i dont know why that happend since both levers are brand new i just swaped the grommet not the bushing , bushing is original fujin.
    I would love to test the 7mm shaft but sadly the green setup from wazwuz doesnt fit the actuator of fujins afaik.i have ordered from the fujin creator some 7mm shafts but he hasnt respond yet .
    Another perfect mod for me would be instead of the silicone grommet that i use from the golden fanta , if i could actually find the same tension of an actual Rubber like the Fanta one.Any info any advise would be much appriciated sorry for the long text .Also diffrent mods that you guys suggest would be nice . One i am trying to test now and i think @zero_requiem would like is , i installed on top of the original plate of the fujin a kowal plate and then installed it on my arcade panel so the lever is shorter gave me abit of speed on wd and kbc . Peace
  • AbevAbev Jack of no trades, master of none. Joined: Posts: 34
    Anyone able to tell me why, for certain grommets, it feels like there's something being grinded/rubbed on inside when I tilt the shaft to max throw distance? Like, more than just the tension of the grommet itself, it seems like something is interfering with the throw.
  • AgiezeAgieze Joined: Posts: 316
    edited December 7
    Funny thing , on Jasen's website, the man claims the 309MJ is a Crown lever customized by Makestick, he even claims it is also called a "Makestick 309MJ" .What a joke, and no one told him yet...
    https://jasenscustoms.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000484011-Will-the-Crown-MakeStick-CWL-309MJ-fit-in-the-PFS3-
    Makestick had no part in the 309MJ chopped collar design, as for the other characteristics that come almost all from standard 309Helpme, they came partially from ...Helpme(a korean modder), not Makestick (aka IST, who only makes Fanta derived sticks) !
    309MJ (as well as 303MJ and 307MJ) is not a custom product, it is a standard offering from Samducksa/Crown and is present in their catalog still today in the recently renamed "M" series http://samducksa.com/new/product/index_view.php?UidNum=373
    Jasen claims also the 309MJ is a
    lever that features a shortened top grommet
    A grommet is a collar now? Wow!
    The article is really misleading. To make matters worse the 309 "sanwa" version as Crown and some retailers call it is in fact the collarless 309Helpme, not the chopped collar 309MJ, even though the MJ does fit in many stick cases that are JLF compatible, it's just not it's comemrcial designation

    Notice said 309Helpme COLLARLESS has disappeared from the official Samducksa website catalog sheets.
    A lever that could be called "Makestick" eventually is the IST FLF.





  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 16
    @Abev That grinding feeling is probably either the bushing being tilted too far and hitting against the casing or just the actuator hitting against the hole in the bottom of the stick.
  • NGY4MNGY4M Joined: Posts: 17
    edited December 7
    @wazwuz
    Alright, heres the update on the Green Fanta Lever Mod. I have not tried the others.

    Parts Used:
    ASI 35 A Silicone Grommet
    ASI Green Fanta Lever Mod. (Latest Batch)
    ASI Switch Support
    Gersung Switch A2
    Myoungshin Fanta

    (Videos are unlisted)
    You might need to increase your volume to hear the sound produced.

    This is the sound produced when it hits the collar.
    https://youtu.be/Iy1mQAKufH4

    How it should sound.
    https://youtu.be/gkfKkhSqVKI

    Another weird sound. Moving around the neutral zone.
    https://youtu.be/SF9BWAKfhtI

    It seems like forward, down and up seem to be having the Collar sound problem. I have tried reinstalling with 1 switch support instead of 2 and the problem still continues to persist. Back seems to be fine for some reason.




  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Fanta & Crown Project Joined: Posts: 425
    edited December 7
    NGY4M wrote: »
    @wazwuz
    Alright, heres the update on the Green Fanta Lever Mod. I have not tried the others.

    Parts Used:
    ASI 35 A Silicone Grommet
    ASI Green Fanta Lever Mod. (Latest Batch)
    ASI Switch Support
    Gersung Switch A2
    Myoungshin Fanta

    (Videos are unlisted)
    You might need to increase your volume to hear the sound produced.

    This is the sound produced when it hits the collar.
    https://youtu.be/Iy1mQAKufH4

    How it should sound.
    https://youtu.be/gkfKkhSqVKI

    Another weird sound. Moving around the neutral zone.
    https://youtu.be/SF9BWAKfhtI

    It seems like forward, down and up seem to be having the Collar sound problem. I have tried reinstalling with 1 switch support instead of 2 and the problem still continues to persist. Back seems to be fine for some reason.


    it is hard to find about sound without direct examination. try to remove all the switch and see if it still making that sound, then remove one by one part to see what parts that cause the sound.
    Post edited by wazwuz on
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,847
    edited December 7
    @wazwuz I sort of had this problem too and I moved some switches around to get the results I needed. This might refer to the claim by Saint that the switches might have some quirks. I still need to get my package soon but the old setup that's currently installed has the 14.75mm actuator so that might have helped. I will let you know ASAP when I get my hands on the new stuff.

    He technically should be able to use the shaft and actuator on a Fujin lever if that has to be a last resort. The actuator shouldn't obstruct the Fujin's plate.

    Maybe he just needs to get used to it because he has been using the Fujin for some time with the Green lever on occassion.
  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 16
    So do the golden fanta parts work fine with the fujinv2? I know earlier posts were talking about the golden actuators hitting the metal plate. Also what about the kazev3?
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,847
    Lashford wrote: »
    So do the golden fanta parts work fine with the fujinv2? I know earlier posts were talking about the golden actuators hitting the metal plate. Also what about the kazev3?

    You have to use a normal Myoungshin grommet bushing. As for actuators, you might be limited to the thinner ones to avoid contact with the plate. You should be able to put GF parts on a Kaze lever fine.
  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 16
    Thanks, kinda wish I got in on that green lever setup now, 14.5mm actuator might be good for taeyoung and fujin.
  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 24
    I know the fujin is bad with metal actuators, but if anyone tries the waz green setup with a fujin would like to here if it may be compatible or not, cheers
  • VR-FistVR-Fist Welcome to die! Joined: Posts: 323
    I hope I will be as advanced with Korean parts as most of you discussing here, but I'm going to put out one rather simple question. It's my way to start experimenting with various levers.

    I am quite happy with the new Taeyoung that comes with Etokki Omni. It's not super-soft, so I can move around without touching the edges of the stick hole too much (it's great, my friend got what seems to be a quite loose Taeyoung, almost feels like it wasn't manufactured properly, big neutral area, gotta push the stick too much).

    However, many Koreans seem to use Crown levers (I wonder whether that's because Taeyoung wasn't manufactured lately until recently), so I want to try that as well. It seem to be the 309 model. From what I've read, there's couple version (v2, v3), while v2 was said to be the best (can you confirm?).

    Is there anything I should be aware of when ordering the 309? I'm also considering the Fujin as most of you here seem to be quite happy with it.
    VR주먹 - twitter / steam
    Czech Fighting Games Community - www.czecharcade.com
  • RokwhoRokwho Joined: Posts: 52
    vD28FiKm.jpgtFNmqjYm.jpgIm happy with this setup as the problem with me and im guessing all the modders here is consistency! thats why we keep changing shit that combined with a stick your not comfortable with doesn't help but the hrap4 unique design works very well for me it forces your lever hand to be in the same position which i hated at first but then realized why its designed like that. 309mj small collar with 35 sa grommit am5 switches is very consistent might try some a3's but not needing to at the moment all this setup is standard parts just shows with the right stick housing can make the most of your lever i have stopped using my atrox now this my daily driver
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,847
    VR-Fist wrote: »
    I hope I will be as advanced with Korean parts as most of you discussing here, but I'm going to put out one rather simple question. It's my way to start experimenting with various levers.

    I am quite happy with the new Taeyoung that comes with Etokki Omni. It's not super-soft, so I can move around without touching the edges of the stick hole too much (it's great, my friend got what seems to be a quite loose Taeyoung, almost feels like it wasn't manufactured properly, big neutral area, gotta push the stick too much).

    However, many Koreans seem to use Crown levers (I wonder whether that's because Taeyoung wasn't manufactured lately until recently), so I want to try that as well. It seem to be the 309 model. From what I've read, there's couple version (v2, v3), while v2 was said to be the best (can you confirm?).

    Is there anything I should be aware of when ordering the 309? I'm also considering the Fujin as most of you here seem to be quite happy with it.

    The second version is considered the best due to the Panasonic switches it had. The third version uses Gersung V1623A3 switches with a V1623A2 switch for up. They feel different but still capable. The 309 levers you can normally find can technically be similar to the V2 (Paradise Arcade Shop) or the V3 (Focus Attack) but they are not marketed that way. If you want the purple top that's featured in these V2 and 3 models, both stores offer.
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Fanta & Crown Project Joined: Posts: 425
    @wazwuz I sort of had this problem too and I moved some switches around to get the results I needed. This might refer to the claim by Saint that the switches might have some quirks. I still need to get my package soon but the old setup that's currently installed has the 14.75mm actuator so that might have helped. I will let you know ASAP when I get my hands on the new stuff.

    He technically should be able to use the shaft and actuator on a Fujin lever if that has to be a last resort. The actuator shouldn't obstruct the Fujin's plate.

    Maybe he just needs to get used to it because he has been using the Fujin for some time with the Green lever on occassion.

    Bro, I think I have to agree with you that AM5 comes in variation. I just comparing my myungshin with AM5 and taeyong also with AM5 (different batch nuber), iI feel diagonal is super easy on my myungshin using 14,5mm compare to teyong using 15mm. This should be complete opposite since switch placement is closer in taeyong.
    No I am not sure if the panasonic is the best switch, if lucky you will get the good one. If you are in badluck you will get hard hitting diagonal pnasonic.

    I will update the batch number tommorow
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 203
    LBG wrote: »
    @zero_requiem on my HelpMe I have AM5's and on the Fanta I have Gersung GSM-V1623A2's. The actuator on the Fanta LOOKS bigger but I can't really tell.. I also hear the HelpMe actuator is good but I know Gersung switches are dope. The problem with my diagonal inputs is from the switches? I'm sort of confused as to why this happens. Mechanically I understand but the best remedy would be to replace the switches or the actuator? Sorry if I sound retarded asking these questions lol

    The reasoning behind different switches for different actuators is some switches have a wider range for diagonal. Which is why a3s are good for big actuators because the range for diagonal is much greater. A2s and am5s are good for smaller actuators because the range is much smaller.

    @Marios at the moment since I'm using a myoungshin bushing on my fujin the shaft wobbles like crazy but it doesn't bother me. If you are using a fujin bushing on a a soft grommet it shouldn't wobble too much because there isn't a lot of play between bushing and shaft. Hopefully you get the 7mm shaft soon to try out with the smaller actuators!
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 203
    Good news everyone! I messaged @Wazwuz lastnight to see if he can design a metal bushing for myoungshin and looks like he was already planning on making them. So in order to eliminate the use of the stock bushing because they get worn out like crazy and sometimes come warped the metal bushing will alleviate all those problems.
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 109
    Good news everyone! I messaged @Wazwuz lastnight to see if he can design a metal bushing for myoungshin and looks like he was already planning on making them. So in order to eliminate the use of the stock bushing because they get worn out like crazy and sometimes come warped the metal bushing will alleviate all those problems.

    Man, that's great. @wazwuz is the real MVP.
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • eyeamg0dlyeyeamg0dly Joined: Posts: 61
    just got my fujin and kaze. the kaze is really nice. movement is very snappy and inputs are clean. my kbds are absurdly fast without me even trying. my only gripe is that the throw is pretty short and i was having some problems in the corners with the stock a3 switches. i have switched the down to an a2 and it has solved that problem. does anyone know the stock actuator size? i think i want try to replicate the feel of this lever.
  • eviljevilj Joined: Posts: 5,063 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    Abev wrote: »
    Anyone able to tell me why, for certain grommets, it feels like there's something being grinded/rubbed on inside when I tilt the shaft to max throw distance? Like, more than just the tension of the grommet itself, it seems like something is interfering with the throw.

    I felt a grinding/clicking thing once too when using my Omni and tilting the lever/shaft to max throw distance...but it turned out the grinding was because I had the dust cap upside down on the top of the stick. There's a little edge on the dust cap that will rub on the stick if have it upside down.
    Green Karin.
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Fanta & Crown Project Joined: Posts: 425
    edited December 8
    Good news everyone! I messaged @Wazwuz lastnight to see if he can design a metal bushing for myoungshin and looks like he was already planning on making them. So in order to eliminate the use of the stock bushing because they get worn out like crazy and sometimes come warped the metal bushing will alleviate all those problems.

    Yes, the plastic spool/bushing is not reliable. I find the taeyong have slightly biger hole (0.1-0.2mm) wich make the myungshin shaft wobble alot when inserted to taeyong spool, and golden shaft have slightly wobble when use with taeyong spool, but GF shaft will be perfect fit for myungshin spool. Despite that, injection molding sistem still make variation due to warping and shrinking issue, this is the downside of polymer (plastic) properties, so I think machined metal bushing/spool is better since it was more durable and reliable.
    I will try to replicate green lever bushing for Golden Fanta spool.

    But we can’t fix wobble issue 100%, because it was design flaw from korean stick. To make mico preccision parts it will need grinding machine and the process is super expensive. Then I came up with another solution.

    So for Golden Lever Projct. I just got an idea to add a spring tension betwen spool and the actuator to eliminate wooble issue. In Engineering we use this technique to eliminate backlash issue at linear motion system (usually in CNC machine), with the same principle I can apply it and hopefully we can eliminate wooble issue.
    @zero_requiem as a fellow CNC machinist, I need your opinion on this. What do you think bro?

    update, I think I can apply it to current Golden Mod

    Post edited by wazwuz on
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • masked ridermasked rider Henshin! Joined: Posts: 1,265
    edited December 8
    wazwuz wrote: »
    So for Golden Lever Projct. I just got an idea to add a spring tension betwen spool and the actuator to eliminate wooble issue. In Engineering we use this technique to eliminate backlash issue at linear motion system (usually in CNC machine), with the same principle I can apply it and hopefully we can eliminate wooble issue.
    @zero_requiem as a fellow CNC machinist, I need your opinion on this. What do you think bro?
    So would this be like what Crown does with the 309? (And other levers, I assume)

    Edit: Nevermind, I misread. Would be interested in seeing how that works out.
    Post edited by masked rider on
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 203
    @wazwuz honestly the wobble spent bother me too much because I'm used to it but if anything eliminating the wobble would lead to more accurate inputs. The spring can and will work but depending on how much tension on the spring you'll have to compensate with the hardness of the grommet. Having the bushing machined to about .001" tolerance with shaft would indeed be way too time consuming but manganese bronze's sizes don't change much compared to steel so once you have the machine set it's good to go. If anything you'll be able to use the golden lever with or without the spring depending on user preference. If there was enough ppl that would buy say a custom metal bushing for fujin then you can get equal tension of the myoungshin without having the wobble. For ppl that dislike the wobble on fujin they are forced to used fujin bushing which results in higher tension which lead to fatigue. I for one am still using myoungshin bushing in my fujin and currently testing 14.5mm actuator with 7 mm shaft vs myoungshin with green arcade parts from wazwuz.
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 586
    edited December 8
    Are the Gersung A3's better at diagonals than the Panasonic switches that came on previous Crown sticks? I just ordered some A3s from Focus attack so I guess I'll find out but I'm curious if someone can tell me ahead of time. They are going on a Crown 309 HelpMe. Thanks.

    Edit: Also, does anyone know what size screws you use for mounting sticks to the case? Can I get them from like Home Depot or some place like that?
    Post edited by VarmintBaby on
    "Play the game to learn not to win. Do this and winning will start to come all on its own." - some smart guy
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,847
    edited December 8
    Got the Golden Fanta Green Lever parts and then some @wazwuz

    I was having a similar issue that Lowhigh had after installing everything. I tried swapping switches and had the same exact issue. Maybe it's the plastic in the Myoungshin's switch points giving me the issue. What I did was turn the whole body around and it solved that problem. Most if not everything felt pretty good then. Enough diagonal zone to do stuff like wavedashing or KBD properly with little to no issues. Sure I have to adjust to things but that's no big deal. The switch supports do really help. It puts the switches a wee bit closer.

    EDIT: There is one weird issue on my down right diagonal at the moment. It triggers a bit too earlier from down. I will look into it soon. EDIT 2: NEVERMIND, NO PROBLEMS!

    I also used the shaft and the actuator on the Fujin lever and it's pretty good on that end too. Very similar results. As for the actuator contacting the Fujin plate, it doesn't on mine so that's good!

    Hopefully Lowhigh fixed his problem because he can help boost interest over there.
    Are the Gersung A3's better at diagonals than the Panasonic switches that came on previous Crown sticks? I just ordered some A3s from Focus attack so I guess I'll find out but I'm curious if someone can tell me ahead of time. They are going on a Crown 309 HelpMe. Thanks.

    I installed Panasonic switches on my Help Me V3 and felt the diagonals were about the same but that's me.
    Post edited by The Phantomnaut on
  • AgiezeAgieze Joined: Posts: 316
    edited December 8
    @wazwuz honestly the wobble spent bother me too much because I'm used to it but if anything eliminating the wobble would lead to more accurate inputs. The spring can and will work but depending on how much tension on the spring you'll have to compensate with the hardness of the grommet. Having the bushing machined to about .001" tolerance with shaft would indeed be way too time consuming but manganese bronze's sizes don't change much compared to steel so once you have the machine set it's good to go. If anything you'll be able to use the golden lever with or without the spring depending on user preference. If there was enough ppl that would buy say a custom metal bushing for fujin then you can get equal tension of the myoungshin without having the wobble. For ppl that dislike the wobble on fujin they are forced to used fujin bushing which results in higher tension which lead to fatigue. I for one am still using myoungshin bushing in my fujin and currently testing 14.5mm actuator with 7 mm shaft vs myoungshin with green arcade parts from wazwuz.

    no you don't need to compensate with grommet hardness for this sort of backlash reducing spring as this spring is independant from the grommet tension when it comes to return force of the lever.
    In japanese&euro&us levers, there is no grommet and all the return force when playing is due to the spring which -also- puts an axial preload on all the parts that fit on the shaft (except the balltop/battop).

    On a k-lever, the spool shaped grommet bushing ISOLATES the grommet from the actuator , so putting a spring between the bottom of the bushing and the actuator doesn't affect play in terms of grommet tension .


    A spring would affect mainly axial preload and much less the radial one on actuator, so internal tolerances of parts that fit on the shaft should always be relatively tight (slide fit) for the sake of not wobbling laterally, which can affect play and precision to a certain degree depending on the mismatch. A spring would avoid wobbling up and down along the shaft of the actuator, wobbling which doesn't affect play and simply causes sometimes an annoying rattle.

    concerning the subject of fatigue due to machined bushings that are thicker, the people who complain should simply keep the higher end bushing and put in a softer grommet. the stock thin injection cast bushings on fanta style sticks are flimsy and absolute crap, and the fact that they partially flex along with the grommet is something that some have grown used to , but it's not supposed to happen. A thicker machined bushing gives a more precise and controlled input, if it's too hard with a certain grommet, simply opt for a suppler one.

    curious to hear Wazwuz' opinion on the subject.
    Post edited by Agieze on
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 203
    @Agieze Very informative thank you. I always thought the spring added more tension like in the 309's. Lighter grommets work well in the fujin with stock bushing but it still has that added tension which tends to give it a mushy feel. You don't get this when using the myoungshin bushing on the fujin though but I'm still testing between the 2 to see which works better. Agreed I'm very excited to see the completed products and test them. Was building by brothers myoungshin the other day and his bushing wasnt even flat lol so annoying.
  • LBGLBG Joined: Posts: 76
    LBG wrote: »
    @zero_requiem on my HelpMe I have AM5's and on the Fanta I have Gersung GSM-V1623A2's. The actuator on the Fanta LOOKS bigger but I can't really tell.. I also hear the HelpMe actuator is good but I know Gersung switches are dope. The problem with my diagonal inputs is from the switches? I'm sort of confused as to why this happens. Mechanically I understand but the best remedy would be to replace the switches or the actuator? Sorry if I sound retarded asking these questions lol

    The reasoning behind different switches for different actuators is some switches have a wider range for diagonal. Which is why a3s are good for big actuators because the range for diagonal is much greater. A2s and am5s are good for smaller actuators because the range is much smaller.

    @Marios at the moment since I'm using a myoungshin bushing on my fujin the shaft wobbles like crazy but it doesn't bother me. If you are using a fujin bushing on a a soft grommet it shouldn't wobble too much because there isn't a lot of play between bushing and shaft. Hopefully you get the 7mm shaft soon to try out with the smaller actuators!

    Thanks for the input I didn't even realize that lol
  • AgiezeAgieze Joined: Posts: 316
    edited December 8
    @Agieze Very informative thank you. I always thought the spring added more tension like in the 309's. Lighter grommets work well in the fujin with stock bushing but it still has that added tension which tends to give it a mushy feel. You don't get this when using the myoungshin bushing on the fujin though but I'm still testing between the 2 to see which works better. Agreed I'm very excited to see the completed products and test them. Was building by brothers myoungshin the other day and his bushing wasnt even flat lol so annoying.

    Crown spring presses against the collar base and on the top part of the bushing, so yes, indeed, with this design both spring and grommet will combine for centering of the shaft.


    If you put a spring between bushing and actuator as proposed by Wawuz, as long as you TILT the handle you'll never feel the presence of the spring, but if you pull upwards you will (but you're not supposed to pull upwards at all, even less with K-levers), this being said the stiffer the spring, the less you'll feel its presence when pulling the shaft upwards, the more you'll be approaching the state of having parts locked together with a perfectly tight fit.
    think of a Sanwa JLF for example, if you pull upwards the bearing hits the mounting plate, then the shaft slides upwards until the spring is fully compressed, the difference here is that the spring does two things, it cancels the backlash of moving parts on the shaft assembly but above all it serves as the tensioning system for the centering of the shaft since there is no grommet.

    Otoh, for the Fujin, perhaps you got too used to the feel with the stock myoungshin part and need to readapt (or not), it's a question of personal preference in this case.

    how much did you metal bushing weigh by the way?



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