Korean arcade parts discussion

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  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 218
    edited December 2017
    @Agieze Good point! Just want to see what gives more consistent results between using fujin bushing and myoungshin inside both fujin and myoungshin. The quicker return to neutral due to higher tension in fujin does give you a sense of speed but at the same time lighter tension with myoungshin bushing also gives that feeling. The grommet I'm using at the moment is a soft red grommet from makestick. Maybe I'll try the clear grommet from golden fanta kit with fujin bushing tonight and see how that works. That clear grommet on myoungshin honestly feels like there's no grommet inside haha. I'm curious as well as to how much those metal bushings will weight.
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 641
    Where can I get a Myoungshin Fanta from in the US? Focus attack doesn't seem to carry it anymore. Thanks.
    "Play the game to learn not to win. Do this and winning will start to come all on its own." - some smart guy
  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 18
    @VarmintBaby Unfortunately I don't think any US sellers carry it right now. Focus attack had a few in stock a few weeks ago but since they removed the page they probably don't plan on stocking any more.
  • AgiezeAgieze Joined: Posts: 319
    edited December 2017
    @wazwuz
    I think it's up to each and everyone's personal preference.

    some people try to do movements with diagonals involved and due to rotation of the shaft they "slip" to the adjacent direction, while others have stronger hand muscles and are ok with said rotation.
    Axial tolerance issue on the shaft between bushing & actuator is not that important though compared to other design problems in k-levers, so I'd say go with light spring constant. After all, the trend is to get close to certain japanese lever standards that could eventually be compatible with k-levers (example crown infiltration model with its restrictor plates, or the crown "conversion" shaft), japanese levers can rotate with ease.
    Considering the (dirt cheap) price of standard helicoidal wire springs, you could include both "soft" and "hard" in the kit.
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Project Joined: Posts: 443
    Agieze wrote: »
    @wazwuz
    I think it's up to each and everyone's personal preference.

    some people try to do movements with diagonals involved and due to rotation of the shaft they "slip" to the adjacent direction, while others have stronger hand muscles and are ok with said rotation.
    Axial tolerance issue on the shaft between bushing & actuator is not that important though compared to other design problems in k-levers, so I'd say go with light spring constant. After all, the trend is to get close to certain japanese lever standards that could eventually be compatible with k-levers (example crown infiltration model with its restrictor plates, or the crown "conversion" shaft), japanese levers can rotate with ease.
    Considering the (dirt cheap) price of standard helicoidal wire springs, you could include both "soft" and "hard" in the kit.

    I think I will try to order 3 sizes spring coil and test it which one work better.
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • LashfordLashford Joined: Posts: 18
    @wazwuz Personally if I had to choose I'd rather it be slightly heavy since you could always remove the spring if wobble doesn't bother you. Though ultimately I'd rather pay a little extra for multiple springs.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    edited December 2017
    @wazwuz I will try to use Gersung switches later this weekend.

    Also nice progress on the bushing/spool.
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 119
    edited December 2017
    Had a chance to mess around with the Green arcade lever setup by @wazwuz . This is just my opinion and feedback based on first impression.

    7mm shaft
    14.5mm actuator
    Am5 switches.

    I do have to say, I had to really make sure my switches were pushed as close towards the actuator as possible before tightening down on the acrylic switch plate. I say this because when I initially tried this setup, my left switch wasn't really registering as well also causing UB and DB (from player 1 side) not to be consistent either. So a double check on my placement actually helped, must've been a fraction off. But none the less got more consistency afterwards.

    For me, cardinal directions were ok, but I felt I had to really dig deep for that "df" or "db". I'm playing tekken btw, using kazuya. I could get a feeling of wavedashing but really had to hold the "df" for that ewgf to register.

    I happened to have a 15mm actuator and tried it. I felt like it made a lot of difference in the corner inputs. I'm a fan of the 7mm shaft though. I felt like with the 7mm shaft paired with the 15mm actuator, I could throw and not hit the collar so much (which is a preference of mine) plus catch corner inputs better.

    As far as the 14.5 actuator, I think it's doable. Someone could adapt to it. Maybe A3's might compliment it more?

    So if I had to be critical based on first impression.

    7mm shaft = like
    14.5mm actuator = dislike

    Edit: I forgot to mention, I was using myoungshin as my base, not Taeyoung. Maybe Taeyoung will take the smaller actuator better because of the closer switch positioning.
    Post edited by jey-are on
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • masked ridermasked rider Henshin! Joined: Posts: 1,276
    Picked up some A3s to put in my 309MJ. I had AM5s (AM51630C69N) in before, and from what I can tell, they feel extremely similar. If you had me blind test them, I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference. Just thought it was worth mentioning for anyone who wanted the Panasonic switches specifically. The only thing that I would say is that the AM5s might reset a little bit sooner than the A3s. But if it does, it's a very minute difference.
  • StickNoobStickNoob Joined: Posts: 31
    Can anything else in the housing affect the resistance in a direction? The more I push forward (on the forward direction) it gives off more resistance. This happens on all grommets (25, 35, 45)
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    edited December 2017
    @wazwuz Here are my impressions with some Gersung switches. The V1623A3 switches feel slightly better than Panasonic switches I have been using before. Doing KBD, wave dashing, instant while running and some other moves felt a bit more consistent and easier. I did notice that the diagonal zones feel slightly bigger which can be good for some players.

    As for V0323A3 switches, they were not great with the shaft and the actuator. While I can wavedash and instant while run decently with these, KBD felt very inconsistent to do. This goes for the same with the V1623A2 switches. Personally I wouldn't recommend these switches.
    StickNoob wrote: »
    Can anything else in the housing affect the resistance in a direction? The more I push forward (on the forward direction) it gives off more resistance. This happens on all grommets (25, 35, 45)

    Maybe there is some excess plastic on the bottom of the collar that you need to remove?
  • MariosMarios Joined: Posts: 73
    I got some more findings , some were really stupid so excuse me but at least it helped me so i gotta share .....
    So ... i managed to solve my wobling and twirling around on my Fujin and it wasnt the actual bushings problem.... it was the actuators and E-clips .
    One day i just wanted to test the 14.5mm actuator of the fujin and i emediatly saw it had a tighter fit into the shaft , i had to twist abit the shaft into the actuator almost like screwing in but with the slide effect hope its understandable ... so people dont break their actuators ...
    After that i got into thinking of maybe am focusing on wrong things because of the labels sincei was so happy my shaft stoped twirling around on fast moves . i bought diffrent kind of e-clips from makestick i mailed them and they said they had some for fanta for almsot everything i bought and tested each and every one of them , and i was making the hug of the e-clip even tigther around the shaft by pinching it with a pincher abit tighter.... BOOM no wobbling not moving around it acts like everything is a solid peace i really enjoy it altho i expect with extend use to losen up but atm its perfect .
    Any thoughts any suggestions anything that it might improve a single thing is appriciated .
    @wazwuz @zero_requiem

    About the Green setup am still waiting te package from wazwuz , along with some microswitch supports, was wondering if i order a microswitch support without the holes is it easy to just go with my fujin lever and make one for it ? would be nice .
    I also hope he provides 14,5 and 14.7 actuators with the green setp shafts . Have a good one everyone peace
  • Daniel LMDaniel LM Joined: Posts: 10
    edited December 2017
    Hi guys, new to the tread here, have been using sanwa for some years now but read this tread got me curious, what korean joystick you guys recommend I should try?
    I'm a Mishima player (a noob one, but still :) ) and a street fighter player.
    I live in Brazil so finding unusual parts to import can be difficult.
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 119
    Daniel LM wrote: »
    Hi guys, new to the tread here, have been using sanwa for some years now but read this tread got me curious, what korean joystick you guys recommend I should try?
    I'm a Mishima player (a noob one, but still :) ) and a street fighter player.
    I live in Brazil so finding unusual parts to import can be difficult.

    If your arcadestick case house's a Sanwa lever, I would say "try the crown 309mj". The catch is that they come with a 25A shore grommet. I myself, favoring Mishima style characters, feel like the 35A is the sweet spot. BUT since you are transitioning from years of Sanwa play, 25A might do well for you.
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • masked ridermasked rider Henshin! Joined: Posts: 1,276
    edited December 2017
    jey-are wrote: »
    Daniel LM wrote: »
    Hi guys, new to the tread here, have been using sanwa for some years now but read this tread got me curious, what korean joystick you guys recommend I should try?
    I'm a Mishima player (a noob one, but still :) ) and a street fighter player.
    I live in Brazil so finding unusual parts to import can be difficult.

    If your arcadestick case house's a Sanwa lever, I would say "try the crown 309mj". The catch is that they come with a 25A shore grommet. I myself, favoring Mishima style characters, feel like the 35A is the sweet spot. BUT since you are transitioning from years of Sanwa play, 25A might do well for you.

    I have a similar background (years of playing on JLFs, primarily SF) and I found it not too difficult to pick up using the 309MJ. I felt that the 25A grommet was too light pretty quickly though, so it may be worth ordering the 35A grommet to go with it at the same time. I don't think you'll find them without anymore, but make sure your 309MJ comes with either the Panasonic AM5 microswitches or Gersung A3 microswitches. According to Phantomnaut, it seems like the different rated A3 switches actually perform differently too so bear that in mind.
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 218
    edited December 2017
    @Marios I find depending on the lever if you put the bushing upside down you won't be able to twist battop and when it's put it the right way it spins freely. I noticed this on the fujin awhile back. The tolerances between bushing, actuator, shaft and e-clip play a big part in this and any slight change will impact how the lever feels.
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Project Joined: Posts: 443
    edited December 2017
    @Marios I find depending on the lever if you put the bushing upside down you won't be able to twist battop and when it's put it the right way it spins freely. I noticed this on the fujin awhile back. The tolerances between bushing, actuator, shaft and e-clip play a big part in this and any slight change will impact how the lever feels.

    agreed, the spring will compensate this. hopefully this weekend it will be ready for testing.
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 101
    StickNoob wrote: »
    Can anything else in the housing affect the resistance in a direction? The more I push forward (on the forward direction) it gives off more resistance. This happens on all grommets (25, 35, 45)

    Well..... it’s a tension based Grommet. Of course the more you push on it the more it’s going to resist. Kinda the whole way Korean Grommets are used for the sticks neutral return.
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Project Joined: Posts: 443
    @wazwuz Here are my impressions with some Gersung switches. The V1623A3 switches feel slightly better than Panasonic switches I have been using before. Doing KBD, wave dashing, instant while running and some other moves felt a bit more consistent and easier. I did notice that the diagonal zones feel slightly bigger which can be good for some players.

    As for V0323A3 switches, they were not great with the shaft and the actuator. While I can wavedash and instant while run decently with these, KBD felt very inconsistent to do. This goes for the same with the V1623A2 switches. Personally I wouldn't recommend these switches.
    StickNoob wrote: »
    Can anything else in the housing affect the resistance in a direction? The more I push forward (on the forward direction) it gives off more resistance. This happens on all grommets (25, 35, 45)

    Maybe there is some excess plastic on the bottom of the collar that you need to remove?

    I don't know if there were 2 types A3, V1623A3 and V0323A3 . so the V1623A3 is preferable for green setup? this is good since V1623A3 still in the market right?
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    wazwuz wrote: »
    @wazwuz Here are my impressions with some Gersung switches. The V1623A3 switches feel slightly better than Panasonic switches I have been using before. Doing KBD, wave dashing, instant while running and some other moves felt a bit more consistent and easier. I did notice that the diagonal zones feel slightly bigger which can be good for some players.

    As for V0323A3 switches, they were not great with the shaft and the actuator. While I can wavedash and instant while run decently with these, KBD felt very inconsistent to do. This goes for the same with the V1623A2 switches. Personally I wouldn't recommend these switches.
    StickNoob wrote: »
    Can anything else in the housing affect the resistance in a direction? The more I push forward (on the forward direction) it gives off more resistance. This happens on all grommets (25, 35, 45)

    Maybe there is some excess plastic on the bottom of the collar that you need to remove?

    I don't know if there were 2 types A3, V1623A3 and V0323A3 . so the V1623A3 is preferable for green setup? this is good since V1623A3 still in the market right?

    From my experience, the V1623A3 switches are better for this setup. I even had two more V0323A3 sets which I tried as well and ended up with the same results. Also yup they are still available on the market in various Crown levers and separately.
  • MariosMarios Joined: Posts: 73
    edited December 2017
    Another finding again might be well known just i didnt know about ....
    All my fujins except the one i bought in korea has panasonic am51610 ... the on i bought in korea has am51630 and the 1630 suprisingly feel and plays smoother than the others .
    Is there any place i can purchase those ? @zero_requiem now am trying a wierd kaze effect on the fujin wich is kinda nice , all microswitches am51610 except down input am51630 so far seems nice and compliments the 7mm shaft with 14.5actuator .... next i am gonna try at the weekend is all microswitches 1630 .. but am scared ill love it and then i wont be able to find the microswitches when they will wear out........
    Post edited by Marios on
  • Daniel LMDaniel LM Joined: Posts: 10
    Thanks a lot @jey-are and @masked rider , I'll keep that in mind and begin to search options for import.
  • jakeleeroyjakeleeroy Joined: Posts: 5
    edited December 2017
    hi guys i'm new to the thread here. i've had my myoungshin fanta (black) for quite some time but i'm kind of interested in getting it to be super low resistance like the one in this video

    any tips on that would be appreciated since i'm sure this isn't only from wear. also are the fanta levers themselves interchangeable with other levers without changing the performance overall (crown and etc) because i'm interested in changing the color.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    jakeleeroy wrote: »
    hi guys i'm new to the thread here. i've had my myoungshin fanta (black) for quite some time but i'm kind of interested in getting it to be super low resistance like the one in this video

    any tips on that would be appreciated since i'm sure this isn't only from wear. also are the fanta levers themselves interchangeable with other levers (crown and etc) because i'm interested in changing the color.

    You can look into the Golden Fanta Kit from Arcade Stick Indonesia (@wazwuz) which have various tension grommets including a light one. Also the Myoungshin Fanta cannot be normally equipped with shafts from Crown due to the size of its shaft's bottom end being bigger in diameter. You can though equip it with one from a Taeyoung Fanta. With the Golden Fanta Kit, you can use its various shafts with Sanwa LB-30-N bat tops or similar ones.
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Project Joined: Posts: 443
    Golden Core spring is finished, I just try it and it Works, No more Wobble lever. I think this is crucial update for Golden Fanta. Personally I feel rapid movement more precise without wobble, since wobble causing loss of tension when neutral and many times makes me lost my rhythm.
    I will start the first batch this weekend. hopefully it will be ready before Christmas. this will be my last Project in 2017. I will move to the next project "Golden Lever Project" in 2018



    btw. I was thinking of making Delrin actuator, but now I'm not sure plastic can handle the spring tension without chipping the plastic in long run. I feel Metal (bronze) is more durable for the Golden Core with spring loaded setup. Let me know if many of you still interested in Plastic/Delrin Actuator?
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • MariosMarios Joined: Posts: 73
    @wazwuz sick news ! count me in the next batch .
    I am interested in delrin actuators i do believe they serve a purpose and it would be nice to have em so all can see the difference if there is any .
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Project Joined: Posts: 443
    edited December 2017
    I have done the testing. and Golden Core solve the wobble issue. but using 7mm shaft I feel the core hitting the bottom of the lever case/body when pivoting (just like green arcade lever). I will try making the chamfer wider for the bottom lips of the Core. hopefully it can eliminate or at least reduce this issue
    Post edited by wazwuz on
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 28
    I would be interested in derlin/plastic too due to using the fujin with the 7mm golden shaft. Using the stock actuator (14.75 i think it is?) but i really wanted to try the 14.5, but i couldnt due to the fujin plating. I would be interested in the golden core spring too.
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 218
    @Marios very interesting. I have never tried the 1610s but have the 1630 and 1662 which were originally used in a seimitsu.
  • Nostromo21Nostromo21 Joined: Posts: 18
    @wazwuz Definitely interested in the delfin actuator! I also need grommet and switch supports.
    Have been playing around with the Golden Fanta Kit for the past week and am really enjoying it, great stuff!
    Does the core fits all sizes of shaft or we will need a core for each shaft?
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Project Joined: Posts: 443
    edited December 2017
    Nostromo21 wrote: »
    @wazwuz Definitely interested in the delfin actuator! I also need grommet and switch supports.
    Have been playing around with the Golden Fanta Kit for the past week and am really enjoying it, great stuff!
    Does the core fits all sizes of shaft or we will need a core for each shaft?

    it will fit for all Golden Fanta Shaft size. so you only need one Core for each lever.
    I'm so excited about this new tech and want to share ASAP with all of you guys. this tech make korean lever have quality and fell equal to japanese lever.
    manteb deh pokoknya bro ;)
    Post edited by wazwuz on
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • kd_kd_ Joined: Posts: 8
    edited December 2017
    quick question, sorry if this has been asked/answered before. On my myoungshin, one of my microswitches is extremely easy to depress and activate. The other three require a little bit of force to trigger as normal. Does this mean my microswitch is "broken in", or should I change the microswitch? Is there something I can do to fix the microswitch itself, outside of replacing it entirely? Outside of functioning as normal, it's a little harder to double-tab that microswitch's direction, because the lever doesn't spring back to neutral as fast. I believe they are Gersung A2 switches, could be A3. They are definitely Gersung switches though. Thanks in advance
  • kodee vukodee vu Joined: Posts: 410
    The 303MJ-DX (Crazy Dongpal) lever is now in ISTmall. Hopefully it makes its way over to Makestick soon, or even a USA distributor. <3
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    edited December 2017
    I should be getting some of the core parts from the Super Hwoarang lever kit sometime this month. I also got some bonus actuators and two white tops as well. At least from the tops end, I can now make my Golden Fanta Green kits look closer to Green Game Land's design. ^_^
    kodee vu wrote: »
    The 303MJ-DX (Crazy Dongpal) lever is now in ISTmall. Hopefully it makes its way over to Makestick soon, or even a USA distributor. <3

    Neat. I need to get that and the Kaze V3 lever from them soon. Still weirded out that it's a chopped collar model only. I wonder how it would feel and perform with the real deal collar.
    wazwuz wrote: »
    Nostromo21 wrote: »
    @wazwuz Definitely interested in the delfin actuator! I also need grommet and switch supports.
    Have been playing around with the Golden Fanta Kit for the past week and am really enjoying it, great stuff!
    Does the core fits all sizes of shaft or we will need a core for each shaft?

    it will fit for all Golden Fanta Shaft size. so you only need one Core for each lever.
    I'm so excited about this new tech and want to share ASAP with all of you guys. this tech make korean lever have quality and fell equal to japanese lever.
    manteb deh pokoknya bro ;)

    I just ordered from you but now you are making me want to buy more stuff! :P
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Project Joined: Posts: 443
    edited December 2017
    I should be getting some of the core parts from the Super Hwoarang lever kit sometime this month. I also got some bonus actuators and two white tops as well. At least from the tops end, I can now make my Golden Fanta Green kits look closer to Green Game Land's design. ^_^
    wazwuz wrote: »
    Nostromo21 wrote: »
    @wazwuz Definitely interested in the delfin actuator! I also need grommet and switch supports.
    Have been playing around with the Golden Fanta Kit for the past week and am really enjoying it, great stuff!
    Does the core fits all sizes of shaft or we will need a core for each shaft?

    it will fit for all Golden Fanta Shaft size. so you only need one Core for each lever.
    I'm so excited about this new tech and want to share ASAP with all of you guys. this tech make korean lever have quality and fell equal to japanese lever.
    manteb deh pokoknya bro ;)

    I just ordered from you but now you are making me want to buy more stuff! :P

    damm, that white myungshin battop is very hard to get items. congrats, you finally get it.

    Golden Core Update


    I will test it when get home. hopefully it will work smooth when using 7mm shaft, and we can have superior "green lever setup"

    update. it work like a charm :smile:


    Post edited by wazwuz on
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • ChumpyChumpy Joined: Posts: 42
    I don't know if this has been posted before but the fujin's grommet is 45A
    3PoDJgy.png
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    Chumpy wrote: »
    I don't know if this has been posted before but the fujin's grommet is 45A

    I guess it's just the bushing/spool that adds that extra notch of tension.
  • k701k701 Joined: Posts: 55
    @wazwuz Will you be making a Crown version of the golden core?
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 154
    Regarding the rubber from the golden fanta kits.

    Having used the green version of the rubbers for a while I started to notice that it was sticking to the plastic surface of the inside of the plastic inclosing of the lever.
    It was annoying to handle so I to fix this I coated the rubber with potato flour. This made the rubber act completely different as it does not stick to the inner surface of the case.

    I would recommend trying this out as will give your rubber spring a better consistency.

    I only used potato flour because that's what I had laying around ^_^ I think the most optimal choice would be talcum powder?
    Denmark CPH
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