Korean arcade parts discussion

1679111295

Comments

  • NotaleftyNotalefty Joined: Posts: 18
    edited November 2015
    http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Shin-Etsu-Silicone-Grease.html

    I planned to go with this expensive branded stuff because it seemed idiot proof. I haven't purchased it yet since it won't dispatch until Monday at the earliest. That said it would actually be cheaper, and less risky (as an idiot) to just buy an entirely new Myoungshin joystick to replace the one I have, if they are ready to go.
    Post edited by Notalefty on
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,678
    Notalefty wrote: »
    http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Shin-Etsu-Silicone-Grease.html

    I planned to go with this expensive branded stuff because it seemed idiot proof. I haven't purchased it yet since it won't dispatch until Monday at the earliest. That said it would actually be cheaper, and less risky (as an idiot) to just buy an entirely new Myoungshin joystick to replace the one I have, if they are ready to go.

    That the stuff most people use, Shin-Etsu or people use Dowcorning's Mollykote. The good thing about buying that tube is that would be a life time supply. Unless your business/ job was refurbishing/repairing sticks and arcade machines that tube last forever. You only need a pea sized amount for a stick.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 154
    I'm sure these lubes are only for sticks with springs?
    Denmark CPH
  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 24,678
    Its a dry silicone base grease, there no petroleum products in it.
    Honda dealerships use the same stuff to keep rubber seals weather striping from drying out on their cars and on their break pads.

    I don't know if it's necessary, but it's safe on rubber.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    edited November 2015
    Looks like Korea's Magiclab released the Magicstick M5 series. It uses a custom PS4 PCB with Sanwa buttons and a Seimitsu LS-58 clone. From what I noticed, the normal M5 is a bit smaller than the M5S. It doesn't seem like it can fit a full Korean lever like its past models unfortunately. You probably have to buy it from Korea only as well. :(

    rcYbtx5.png

    Also another look of Crown's CWL-307ST Crazy Dongpal version.



  • NotaleftyNotalefty Joined: Posts: 18
    The grease should arrive tomorrow. Just in advance, I am under the impression that it probably only need to be applied to the bottom rubber part of the stick just above the safety clip (thing), where the rubber part is going to make contact with the 4 metal switches? This would be the area where it was rubbing on my clothes while I was working with the buttons. Then it's a question of how much it needs and what to apply the grease with? I'll end up making a complete balls of it if I don't ask.
  • Angry AbelAngry Abel Joined: Posts: 387
    snip

    Nice! Very tempted to purchase this while I wait on a PS4 etokki.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    Angry Abel wrote: »
    snip

    Nice! Very tempted to purchase this while I wait on a PS4 etokki.

    The problem is that you will probably fine little to no way to get it if you live outside Korea. Unless you are planning a trip anytime soon or know a friend, getting the Magicstick M5 is extremely hard to purchase.
  • FabamaFabama Progenitor of the walk forward EX Grim Reaper Joined: Posts: 25
    edited November 2015
    Notalefty wrote: »
    The grease should arrive tomorrow. Just in advance, I am under the impression that it probably only need to be applied to the bottom rubber part of the stick just above the safety clip (thing), where the rubber part is going to make contact with the 4 metal switches? This would be the area where it was rubbing on my clothes while I was working with the buttons. Then it's a question of how much it needs and what to apply the grease with? I'll end up making a complete balls of it if I don't ask.

    Are you talking about the actuator? The black piece of plastic that contacts the metal switches. That's not what I would apply grease to. When my Myoungshin was making similar noises to yours, my issue was that there was too much friction between the shaft of the stick and the inside of the plastic portion of the rubber grommet inside the stick. When the shaft would spin against the inside of the grommet, it would squeak. I applied very little of the silicone based grease to the bottom part of the shaft that sat within the grommet and it solved my problem.

    So long as you have the stock grommet, this should not be an issue. Refer to @agieze post for more info on potential issues between the rubber and the lubricant.

    If I'm drastically incorrect on this one, please correct me.
    Tekken is a pretty cool game.
  • Angry AbelAngry Abel Joined: Posts: 387
    edited November 2015
    Angry Abel wrote: »
    snip

    Nice! Very tempted to purchase this while I wait on a PS4 etokki.

    The problem is that you will probably fine little to no way to get it if you live outside Korea. Unless you are planning a trip anytime soon or know a friend, getting the Magicstick M5 is extremely hard to purchase.

    I live in Korea.

    I have an etokki (korean version) and a makestick.

    71I7TDMR8LL._SY355_.jpg

    Both very fine sticks.
  • NotaleftyNotalefty Joined: Posts: 18
    edited November 2015
    Fabama wrote: »
    Snip

    Okay. Do I need to take the joystick apart somehow to apply it where you say? I don't know exactly what that part is, if it's accessible or how to reach it. I took a picture in case it can be pointed out.

    https://www.sli.mg/YBFGgh

  • FabamaFabama Progenitor of the walk forward EX Grim Reaper Joined: Posts: 25
    Notalefty wrote: »
    Fabama wrote: »
    Snip

    Okay. Do I need to take the joystick apart somehow to apply it where you say? I don't know exactly what that part is, if it's accessible or how to reach it. I took a picture in case it can be pointed out.

    https://www.sli.mg/YBFGgh

    In my case, I took the e-clip off (this part: http://i.imgur.com/fe9P38C.jpg ). Then I removed the bat-top, placed a small amount of the silicone grease on the bottom half of the shaft which sits inside the rubber grommet in the stick's housing, put it back into the housing and replaced the e-clip. When you take the e-clip off, the actuator will probably come out (this part: http://i.imgur.com/O8fEoq5.jpg ) , so make sure to keep a hold of it.

    You would probably be benefited by taking the stick out of the case and taking it all the way apart just to get a reference for how it goes together and where exactly the shaft contacts the rubber grommet. It'll give you a better idea of where the friction is that's causing the noise (at least in my case this was the issue).
    Tekken is a pretty cool game.
  • DARTHLORD_SVDARTHLORD_SV Joined: Posts: 32
    hey guys, I'll buy the joystick crown 307 ST sold by FA but I want to know if I need to change it to improve and if so what should I buy more? thanks for youre help..
  • NotaleftyNotalefty Joined: Posts: 18
    I finally worked up the nuts to take the stick apart. Last time I tried I fucked the Sanwa stick in such a fashion that I ended up just selling the entire arcade stick but the Korean stick parts are so much more simple to put together. For lack of anything to apply the silicone with I ended up just putting the stick shaft straight into the tube of grease, job done. Put it back together super easily, no springs and crap, just 1 piece of plastic and the washer. She's now super smooth and no more creaking, smooth as butter, even better than it was when I first got it so I guess it was a problem that was going to arise from use rather than something I did, because I don't see how I could've touched the part that needed grease. For anyone else, the hardest part is literally just getting the e-clip off because I stabbed myself in the thumb with a flathead screwdriver.

    Thanks for your patience fellas, couldn't have figured it out without your help.
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 154
    Notalefty wrote: »
    For anyone else, the hardest part is literally just getting the e-clip off because I stabbed myself in the thumb with a flathead screwdriver.
    ouch! glad you figured it out, interesting that you find it better then when you got it.

    Denmark CPH
  • CRITICALSHOTCRITICALSHOT "All Bricks" Joined: Posts: 136
    The Crown CWL-307FJ-JMS-ST Joystick - The durometer put the level of shore A rating of 55.

    What is the Crown CWL-307F-J-W Joystick - What is it rated at?

    What is the Crown 303-FK Korean Joystick - What is it rated at?

    I was wondering because I wanted something closer to the Myoungshin Fanta stick without the mod for the 303. Of the three listed, which is the stiffest?
  • jmanDMCjmanDMC Focusattack.com Joined: Posts: 2,558
    The Crown CWL-307FJ-JMS-ST Joystick - The durometer put the level of shore A rating of 55.

    What is the Crown CWL-307F-J-W Joystick - What is it rated at?

    What is the Crown 303-FK Korean Joystick - What is it rated at?

    I was wondering because I wanted something closer to the Myoungshin Fanta stick without the mod for the 303. Of the three listed, which is the stiffest?

    @CRITICALSHOT I got your message and posted some photos of the test results I got from the Shore A Durometer.

    I'll post my results here for a response by others here. I'm open to criticism if measured wrong.

    Crown 303-FK: 35 Shore A

    12309698_1171773559502708_8170184421073523631_o.jpg

    Myoungshin Fanta: 42 Shore A

    12322976_1171773556169375_9126159020404017304_o.jpg

    Crown CWL-307F-J-W: 55 Shore A

    12339321_1171773619502702_8877199983477560154_o.jpg

    Fanta Mod Grommet: 58 Shore A => 60 Shore A

    12304465_1171773562836041_6096610047386644543_o.jpg


    Join the FA.R Rewards Program! Earn, share, and redeem chips to save nearly every day! http://bit.ly/fa-rewards
    Have questions? Get answers by our Tech Talk member support team and knowledgebase http://support.focusattack.com
    Try the KOWAL Hayabusa Octopus restrictor plate for octagonal control of the popular Hori joystick! http://bit.ly/fa-kowal
  • FlyFly Joined: Posts: 33
    Yo! I've been trying out new sticks lately and recently bought a Crown 303N. This is my first Korean styled joystick and I'm wondering how long it takes to break one of these bad boys in. I also purchased the Myoungshin Crown configuration as well, I understand its supposed to imitate the Myoungshin Fanta.

    So far, the Myoungshin Crown grommit is ridiculously stiff (heheh) and is very unusable for me.

    I bought a Myoungshin Fanta grommit from etokki thinking it would fit into the Crown, but apparently it doesn't? I honestly would like to try a Fanta, but I don't want to have to mod my stick so that I can test out a Fanta :s

    Is there a model of the Fanta I can use on my stick without having to mod the case?

    Thanks! =)
    [Central US] XBL: GuileWithStyle (Sorry Guilewithstyle from Hyper Fighting! I didn't know you had this name first :( )
  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 331
    Fly wrote: »
    Is there a model of the Fanta I can use on my stick without having to mod the case?

    Thanks! =)

    At the moment: no.

    I would suggest giving the crown-fanta kit mod another go around, but this perhaps try switches of lower resistance to compensate for the stiffer grommet. You might find a combination that's more to your liking. You may be surprised how big a difference this makes.
  • el grecoel greco Lite Dash Joined: Posts: 373
    Out of curiosity, any idea what they used during King of the Iron Fist for the Koreans? it had a white bat top.
  • FlyFly Joined: Posts: 33
    I would suggest giving the crown-fanta kit mod another go around, but this perhaps try switches of lower resistance to compensate for the stiffer grommet. You might find a combination that's more to your liking. You may be surprised how big a difference this makes.

    Thanks for the suggestion! I believe the mod kit comes with sensitive switches off top, but I'm sure that there are better/more sensitive ones around. I'll definitely try it out, thanks again.
    [Central US] XBL: GuileWithStyle (Sorry Guilewithstyle from Hyper Fighting! I didn't know you had this name first :( )
  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 331
    Right right, it does come with those Gersung A2s, but to your point there are more sensitive--lower gram force--switches available. You may have better luck with 125gf switches; I believe Omron makes a number of switches under 200gf.
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 154
    el greco wrote: »
    Out of curiosity, any idea what they used during King of the Iron Fist for the Koreans? it had a white bat top.

    They use a special modified Myoungshin fanta.

    ic65qw.jpg
    353cs5y.jpg
    Denmark CPH
  • ?AC?AC Joined: Posts: 96 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    edited December 2015
    Does anyone know what the difference is with the crown309 compared to the crown303 on etokki . i know the 307 is suppose to have bigger actuator and harder rubber compared to the crown303 on etokki .
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    The 303 and 309 have a similar, if not exactly, bottom end including the actuator. The only difference I noticed is that the 309 bears a shorter top collar the 307 has so reaching the edges is sooner than later found on the 303.
  • ?AC?AC Joined: Posts: 96 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    edited December 2015
    oh cool thx . so its exactly the same as the 303 .
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    ?AC wrote: »
    oh cool thx . so its exactly the same as the 303 .

    Collars are different so not the exact same.
  • slaycruzslaycruz Joined: Posts: 1,320


    Hibachi final posted this on Twitter...the 309 does have a bigger actuator.
    Previous signature removed per hakdizzles request in order to obtain voltech stick.....
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,613
    I wanna revive my old HRAP V3 Kai that I haven't used since I got my TE2. I wanna make it full Korean with a Myoungshin Fanta and Crown Buttons; anyone know if it's possible to mount those in the V3 Kai's body?
  • slaycruzslaycruz Joined: Posts: 1,320
    I wanna revive my old HRAP V3 Kai that I haven't used since I got my TE2. I wanna make it full Korean with a Myoungshin Fanta and Crown Buttons; anyone know if it's possible to mount those in the V3 Kai's body?

    As of right now...no. Unless you are able to get a hold of a custom panel. Othetwise you habe to use the Jap mounted crown which arent bad at all. I do believe there may be a few things in the future that may allow a fanta later on though.
    Previous signature removed per hakdizzles request in order to obtain voltech stick.....
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,613
    Hmm. By Japanese mounted Crown, you mean the 303-FK as opposed to the 303-N, right? If so, I could just use the Fanta Crown Upgrade Kit from FocusAttack to make it feel more like a Fanta, yes?
  • slaycruzslaycruz Joined: Posts: 1,320
    Hmm. By Japanese mounted Crown, you mean the 303-FK as opposed to the 303-N, right? If so, I could just use the Fanta Crown Upgrade Kit from FocusAttack to make it feel more like a Fanta, yes?

    That is correct but there is also the crown 307 as well.
    Previous signature removed per hakdizzles request in order to obtain voltech stick.....
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,613
    edited December 2015
    I took a look at the Crown buttons on etokki. According to them, the snap-in types are compatible with standard .110 quick disconnects, but I took a look at some google images and their connector prongs look nothing like those you'd find on a Sanwa or Seimitsu. How would I connect the QD's to them?

    EDIT: I decided I'll just go with the screw-in variants. Even though they require soldering, they cost less since I don't need the rubber fastening nuts that the snap ins do. However, I still have a question: there seem to be small PCBs on the undersides of the buttons with two solder points. Does it matter which point I solder ground to and which point I solder signal to?
  • Ikagi-chanIkagi-chan Loves his HRAP2SA! <3 Joined: Posts: 1,980
    I took a look at the Crown buttons on etokki. According to them, the snap-in types are compatible with standard .110 quick disconnects, but I took a look at some google images and their connector prongs look nothing like those you'd find on a Sanwa or Seimitsu. How would I connect the QD's to them?

    EDIT: I decided I'll just go with the screw-in variants. Even though they require soldering, they cost less since I don't need the rubber fastening nuts that the snap ins do. However, I still have a question: there seem to be small PCBs on the undersides of the buttons with two solder points. Does it matter which point I solder ground to and which point I solder signal to?

    For the first, the prong does fit inside the QD, just I don't personally think it's the most snug or reliable fit. If you fasten it with a piece of tape along with it, it'll be okay for a bit, but again, not reliable.

    As for the PCB on the underside, it shouldn't matter. It's the same with how it doesn't matter which QD you use on which prong on a Sanwa or Seimitsu button. Electrically, all that's happening is that a circuit is closing, so it doesn't matter which end of said circuit is ground and which is power.
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,613
    I see. And for the snap ins, how well do they fit into control panels? Are the rubber fasteners a necessity?
  • kkoldingkkolding Joined: Posts: 154
    edited December 2015
    Crown buttons needs 10,5mm to hit the snappoint

    203A%20Spec1.jpg
    Denmark CPH
  • BolSadguyBolSadguy Toronto Stick Modder Joined: Posts: 1,613
    kkolding wrote: »
    Crown buttons needs 10mm to hit the snappoint

    Ugh. Guess I need to shell the extra 1.80 for 8 fasteners then since etokki only has like 4 screw ins in stock.

    Thanks everyone for all your help
  • Dracula_XDracula_X unblockable Joined: Posts: 933
    edited December 2015
    I took a look at the Crown buttons on etokki. According to them, the snap-in types are compatible with standard .110 quick disconnects, but I took a look at some google images and their connector prongs look nothing like those you'd find on a Sanwa or Seimitsu. How would I connect the QD's to them?

    EDIT: I decided I'll just go with the screw-in variants. Even though they require soldering, they cost less since I don't need the rubber fastening nuts that the snap ins do. However, I still have a question: there seem to be small PCBs on the undersides of the buttons with two solder points. Does it matter which point I solder ground to and which point I solder signal to?

    For the snap in buttons you can just squeeze the qd with a pair of pliers and they won't go anywhere. For the screw in buttons the solder points do matter. I'll have to look at them when I get home but I swear they're like the cherry switches where one of the prongs is always a closed circuit. I could be wrong.
    Time lost can never be retrieved.
Sign In or Register to comment.