Korean arcade parts discussion

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  • washowwashow Joined: Posts: 5
    Has anyone here ordered from istmall before? I'm Korean and I know the site is fine but when I try to order a lever using their American website, the payment section is empty and the order just goes through without paying. Are they telling me I have to direct deposit money to their bank account from the US? What the heck I don't live in Korea how am I supposed to do that
  • HiYaPewPewHiYaPewPew Joined: Posts: 40
    washow wrote: »
    Has anyone here ordered from istmall before? I'm Korean and I know the site is fine but when I try to order a lever using their American website, the payment section is empty and the order just goes through without paying. Are they telling me I have to direct deposit money to their bank account from the US? What the heck I don't live in Korea how am I supposed to do that

    I’m having the same problem
  • dblbeastdblbeast This is my Steam name. /TEKKEN 7/ Joined: Posts: 10
    Do 40A silicone grommets exist for Crown 300 series?

    I've tried 25A, 35A and 45A silicone grommets from FocusAttack. 25A was way too loose and immediately switched out. 35A still made my movement sloppy. 45A is solid, but it's actually a bit too tough that it makes hitting sudden precise inputs difficult. I'm surprised there was such a jump between 35A & 45A since the difference between 25A & 35A felt fairly subtle. But that's why I'm looking for a 40A silicone grommet.

    I feel like this probably isn't the case, but could there be a range of error for the hardness in the grommets? And can these silicone grommets be "worn in"? I've only heard people say that about rubber grommets due to their greater likelihood for manufacturing inconsistencies. I doubt this really applies either.
  • washowwashow Joined: Posts: 5
    dblbeast wrote: »
    Do 40A silicone grommets exist for Crown 300 series?

    I've tried 25A, 35A and 45A silicone grommets from FocusAttack. 25A was way too loose and immediately switched out. 35A still made my movement sloppy. 45A is solid, but it's actually a bit too tough that it makes hitting sudden precise inputs difficult. I'm surprised there was such a jump between 35A & 45A since the difference between 25A & 35A felt fairly subtle. But that's why I'm looking for a 40A silicone grommet.

    I feel like this probably isn't the case, but could there be a range of error for the hardness in the grommets? And can these silicone grommets be "worn in"? I've only heard people say that about rubber grommets due to their greater likelihood for manufacturing inconsistencies. I doubt this really applies either.

    It does break in. When I first used 45g it was stiff as fuck but after a while, I either got used to it or it got loose. Now it's super smooth
  • dblbeastdblbeast This is my Steam name. /TEKKEN 7/ Joined: Posts: 10
    washow wrote: »
    It does break in. When I first used 45g it was stiff as fuck but after a while, I either got used to it or it got loose. Now it's super smooth

    Hmm... well hopefully it did break in. I do need some warm-up before playing matches, having recently made the change from JLF. Hoping it goes beyond that & the grommet itself changes.

    I've been super bent on getting the right setting after finding something that actually made a big difference for me. I've been struggling with the JLF's huge dead zone & looseness for the longest time, so the change was quite rejuvenating.
  • HFXHFX SMYA Joined: Posts: 4,751
    Guys, so I got myself a GFM core as well but can only open my stick on Monday after I'm back from a short vacation, where do you put the spring exactly? Are there any photos on how it should look like when installed properly? Thanks
    Malaysian. Kuching FGC founder. Follow me on: Twitch | Twitter | Facebook
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 638
    HFX wrote: »
    Guys, so I got myself a GFM core as well but can only open my stick on Monday after I'm back from a short vacation, where do you put the spring exactly? Are there any photos on how it should look like when installed properly? Thanks

    @HFX The "open" part of the bushing core points downward into the body of the stick, the spring goes inside that "open" groove and you stick the shaft through it all.
    "Play the game to learn not to win. Do this and winning will start to come all on its own." - some smart guy
  • WamsalamiWamsalami Joined: Posts: 2
    Hi guys first time posting here. What difference is there when the stick has a spring inside or not? Using a 309 btw
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 217
    @Wamsalami welcome to the forum. The spring is primarily used to eliminate wobble. Korean joysticks for the most part wobble and Japanese joysticks do not.
  • WamsalamiWamsalami Joined: Posts: 2
    @zero_requiem but in terms of inputs will there be any discrepancies?
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 217
    @Wamsalami it all comes down to personal preference. Some ppl say less wobble gives more precise inputs but I for one find everything easier with a slight wobble.
  • dblbeastdblbeast This is my Steam name. /TEKKEN 7/ Joined: Posts: 10
    TekkenKazi wrote: »
    Hi guys im a Korean tekken user i'm making a lever called "Kazi Lever"

    i think it will be finish in Feb or March

    when u guys want to get after launch parcel cost would be $25 with 3-4 days


    if u guys interest in lever u guys can ask at Twitter @TekkenKazi

    Thanks

    Would be nice if you can at least tell us the settings for your lever here, and why we should get it.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    edited January 5
    dblbeast wrote: »
    TekkenKazi wrote: »
    Hi guys im a Korean tekken user i'm making a lever called "Kazi Lever"

    i think it will be finish in Feb or March

    when u guys want to get after launch parcel cost would be $25 with 3-4 days


    if u guys interest in lever u guys can ask at Twitter @TekkenKazi

    Thanks

    Would be nice if you can at least tell us the settings for your lever here, and why we should get it.

    Here is what he said to me on Twitter:
    Thanks for attention

    I will post whole parts of the lever before get ordering

    Kazi lever is Korean style lever which widely use in Korea

    it use 4 micro switchs with 15.1-15.3mm head parts ,35 grommet(maybe can get 45 for option)

    and the grip can be change

    From what I have noticed, it looks like he using a Crown lever as a base (a 309 in particular). Maybe it will be like SuperHwoarang or Sanjuks where it's a custom design. The top comes from the Infiltration and Crazy Dongpal levers but we might see a change in the release unit. I think the draw might come from the actuators and the switches which we don't know what it will use.

    As of now, it's good to see Korean users reach out to us which I hope leads to more people looking to do the same.
  • dblbeastdblbeast This is my Steam name. /TEKKEN 7/ Joined: Posts: 10
    Thanks. Speaking of SuperHwoarang & Sanjuk, how are those like? I couldn't find anything on them.

    I am new to Korean sticks, and they are not mainstream, so I don't know how different they can be. Grommets are pretty basic. Though I suppose that can also be complemented with other factors. Shaft measurements, actuator, switches... How much notable variance do these custom models have from the base model?
  • masked ridermasked rider Henshin! Joined: Posts: 1,275
    After having played on both the 309MJ (modded with 35A grommet) and 309 HelpMe, I find that the HelpMe feels better. Might just be because the HelpMe was newer, but it felt snappier and more precise. Is there an actual difference with regards to throw distance and dead zone, or am I just imagining things?
  • LordFuLordFu Joined: Posts: 57
    I have both, and there's a small difference between the geometry of the two. It's enough to form a preference for one or the other. I slightly prefer my MJ, but it's all preference.
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 638
    edited January 5
    So I played with japanese sticks a while back and switched to Hitbox and now I'm really liking my Korean Golden Fanta. I'm having some issues learning to play Sim on it (complex movements). I'm getting better and better, but my question is, to tell if there's an issue with your microswitches, you would just hold the stick in all 8 directions to see if there's a "flutter" or issue with them right? Like I saw Rip had a bad Sanwa stick and when he held down/right or down/left, it would flutter to left or right without him ever moving the stick out of the diagonal position. As long as my stick holds each position that means the switches are good right? Is there ever an instance where quick movements can make a microswitch not work or is the the test I mentioned always a good barometer? Please "at" me in your reply. Thanks in advance for any responses. Thanks!
    "Play the game to learn not to win. Do this and winning will start to come all on its own." - some smart guy
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 217
    @VarmintBaby I'm sure @Agieze will answer that question because he's a g and has vast knowledge about these things. 1 think you can test to see if .187 connectors are loose on switches is holding left/right/up/down for a few seconds to see if it's double tapping. I noticed it awhile back that when .187 connectors are loose while holding left or right in tekken you will start running out of nowhere. Very irritating and messes up inputs. When this happens I take the rubber end of a screw driver and push down on connectors against something solid. It will tighten the connectors and eliminate the double tap.
  • TekkenKaziTekkenKazi Joined: Posts: 6
    dblbeast wrote: »
    Thanks. Speaking of SuperHwoarang & Sanjuk, how are those like? I couldn't find anything on them.

    I am new to Korean sticks, and they are not mainstream, so I don't know how different they can be. Grommets are pretty basic. Though I suppose that can also be complemented with other factors. Shaft measurements, actuator, switches... How much notable variance do these custom models have from the base model?

    both are korean lever

    SuperHwoarang lever is old korean Hwoarang player and he made it all himself

    Sanjuks is also a korean lever some lever and stick maker made it very little quantity
  • TekkenKaziTekkenKazi Joined: Posts: 6
    After having played on both the 309MJ (modded with 35A grommet) and 309 HelpMe, I find that the HelpMe feels better. Might just be because the HelpMe was newer, but it felt snappier and more precise. Is there an actual difference with regards to throw distance and dead zone, or am I just imagining things?

    actually there are many types of Help Me if you didn't buy a lever directly to Help Me then in Korea we don't call that Help Me thats made by Samducksa(Crown)

    When you buy directly to Help Me , he adjust switch sensitivity !!

    + Help Me 2nd generation use Panasonic switch
    3rd generation use Gersung switch
  • TekkenKaziTekkenKazi Joined: Posts: 6
    So I played with japanese sticks a while back and switched to Hitbox and now I'm really liking my Korean Golden Fanta. I'm having some issues learning to play Sim on it (complex movements). I'm getting better and better, but my question is, to tell if there's an issue with your microswitches, you would just hold the stick in all 8 directions to see if there's a "flutter" or issue with them right? Like I saw Rip had a bad Sanwa stick and when he held down/right or down/left, it would flutter to left or right without him ever moving the stick out of the diagonal position. As long as my stick holds each position that means the switches are good right? Is there ever an instance where quick movements can make a microswitch not work or is the the test I mentioned always a good barometer? Please "at" me in your reply. Thanks in advance for any responses. Thanks!

    i will use some new switches which will be tested by pro and many Korean tekken user so u don't have to worry about the poor condition of switches !!

    I tried almost all the switches used in korea for lever

    it will have best optimization for Tekken
  • AznSensation45AznSensation45 Joined: Posts: 16
    @TekkenKazi I would be interested in the lever if it is anything close to the Fujin lever in terms of performance then I would be interested. Would like to know the differences between stock myoungshin or stock 309helpme . I still don't know how good/different kaze v3 is.
  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 97
    @TekkenKazi I would be interested in the lever if it is anything close to the Fujin lever in terms of performance then I would be interested. Would like to know the differences between stock myoungshin or stock 309helpme . I still don't know how good/different kaze v3 is.
    I suggest you use the search function, and read through the pages here. You will find all that out. Short answer. Kaze is better than stock Fanta /or Crown. But it’s all personal preference. That’s only my opinion. The 309 Helpme has different versions. It’s crowns attempt to make a lever as close to a Fanta as possible, with their parts.
    The Fujin is built off a Myoungshin Fanta body, and the “Kazi” is a 303 DX Shaft and a 309 body. We don’t know the rest of the info. But I’m willing to bet it’s not going to compare to the Fujin for many reasons. One being the AM5s. But once again just my opinion. Hard to say until we all know the complete parts of the Kazi.
  • The PhantomnautThe Phantomnaut Too obsessive over Korean arcade parts. Joined: Posts: 1,867
    edited January 7
    I was trying the SuperHwoarang kit with the Fujin lever and I don't like it. I will blame the Fujin grommet and bushing due to how hard it is for my hand. I bet a lighter grommet will help a lot.

    I wish Crown found a way to have their non DX-tops removable because I think those feel amazing for my hands and they look cool to boot. Putting that on a Golden Crown shaft would make it cool. On a related note, I have been noticing obvious cracks on my 303N lever's collar. I think that part specifically will break sooner or later. I probably will have to buy a new 303N lever on Etokki since that seems to be the only place to get one nowadays (unless someone is down to sell me theirs). I might look into the Golden Crown kit in the future to get Green lever-like travel on a 303N or even do what @kkolding did with a Myoungshin shaft by shaving a millimeter to the Crown shaft.
    dblbeast wrote: »
    Thanks. Speaking of SuperHwoarang & Sanjuk, how are those like? I couldn't find anything on them.

    I am new to Korean sticks, and they are not mainstream, so I don't know how different they can be. Grommets are pretty basic. Though I suppose that can also be complemented with other factors. Shaft measurements, actuator, switches... How much notable variance do these custom models have from the base model?

    Well it depends on the lever. Something like the Green Game Land lever, a modified Myoungshin lever, emphasizes longer travel due to the shaft's smaller diameter. To avoid having diagonal zones that are too large, the lever utilizes a smaller actuator, that also expands neutral zone, and also is equipped with now discontinued Panasonic switches to help round things out. For the Fujin lever, the biggest draw is that the switches are placed closer to the middle like a Taeyoung lever since it uses a custom switch plate. The Fujin's grommet, just a normal Myoungshin one, also has a special bushing core that makes tension a bit tougher. The Crazy Dongpal has a smaller actuator which helps with a larger neutral zone without changing too much of everything else.

    Also here are links to the SuperHwo lever kit and the Sanjuks parts (requires Naver login and joining that Naver page).
    TekkenKazi wrote: »
    So I played with japanese sticks a while back and switched to Hitbox and now I'm really liking my Korean Golden Fanta. I'm having some issues learning to play Sim on it (complex movements). I'm getting better and better, but my question is, to tell if there's an issue with your microswitches, you would just hold the stick in all 8 directions to see if there's a "flutter" or issue with them right? Like I saw Rip had a bad Sanwa stick and when he held down/right or down/left, it would flutter to left or right without him ever moving the stick out of the diagonal position. As long as my stick holds each position that means the switches are good right? Is there ever an instance where quick movements can make a microswitch not work or is the the test I mentioned always a good barometer? Please "at" me in your reply. Thanks in advance for any responses. Thanks!

    i will use some new switches which will be tested by pro and many Korean tekken user so u don't have to worry about the poor condition of switches !!

    I tried almost all the switches used in korea for lever

    it will have best optimization for Tekken

    Can't wait to hear more of this!
  • TekkenKaziTekkenKazi Joined: Posts: 6
    ykd wrote: »
    @TekkenKazi I would be interested in the lever if it is anything close to the Fujin lever in terms of performance then I would be interested. Would like to know the differences between stock myoungshin or stock 309helpme . I still don't know how good/different kaze v3 is.
    I suggest you use the search function, and read through the pages here. You will find all that out. Short answer. Kaze is better than stock Fanta /or Crown. But it’s all personal preference. That’s only my opinion. The 309 Helpme has different versions. It’s crowns attempt to make a lever as close to a Fanta as possible, with their parts.
    The Fujin is built off a Myoungshin Fanta body, and the “Kazi” is a 303 DX Shaft and a 309 body. We don’t know the rest of the info. But I’m willing to bet it’s not going to compare to the Fujin for many reasons. One being the AM5s. But once again just my opinion. Hard to say until we all know the complete parts of the Kazi.

    Actually 303,305,307,309 uses same bat grip so u don't have to worry about it and also i think i will change the bat grip

    actually i use that because there are many grip at arcade center that i installed my "Kazi" so i wanted to find it easy.

    + "Kazi" is keep changing and another bat grip is in process
  • TekkenKaziTekkenKazi Joined: Posts: 6
    @TekkenKazi I would be interested in the lever if it is anything close to the Fujin lever in terms of performance then I would be interested. Would like to know the differences between stock myoungshin or stock 309helpme . I still don't know how good/different kaze v3 is.

    I can't say how "similar" but, it has wider neutral zone and diagonal zone than fujin v2

    and i will post more after i redesign my things

    thanks
  • kiddakidda Joined: Posts: 5
    Hey guys I recently bought a Crown 309MJ for my qanba and i've noticed that when moving the joystick to the right direction i sometimes get a "crunch" or "click" type feel/noise before the switch activates. I've taken it apart and turned the spring upside down and around etc etc but it always comes back. Not a deal breaker but its bothering me a lot. I assume its the spring maybe slipping out of the grommet or rubbing on itself that is making the noise as there isn't really anything else in there. Anyone experienced anything like this this before or know how I might go about fixing it?
  • AznSensation45AznSensation45 Joined: Posts: 16
    TekkenKazi wrote: »
    I can't say how "similar" but, it has wider neutral zone and diagonal zone than fujin v2

    and i will post more after i redesign my things

    thanks

    Thank you very much for the news. Seems like it will be a good lever to consider so I am excited to hear more. Will be waiting for your updates.
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 217
    @thephantomnaut you can always try a myoungshin bushing and golden fanta shaft inside the fujin to reduce the tension but will have to modify fujin actuator tho. Works really well imo
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 638
    kidda wrote: »
    Hey guys I recently bought a Crown 309MJ for my qanba and i've noticed that when moving the joystick to the right direction i sometimes get a "crunch" or "click" type feel/noise before the switch activates. I've taken it apart and turned the spring upside down and around etc etc but it always comes back. Not a deal breaker but its bothering me a lot. I assume its the spring maybe slipping out of the grommet or rubbing on itself that is making the noise as there isn't really anything else in there. Anyone experienced anything like this this before or know how I might go about fixing it?

    Have you tried swapping out that switch that you are activating when it makes that noise? It might be the switch itself.
    "Play the game to learn not to win. Do this and winning will start to come all on its own." - some smart guy
  • dblbeastdblbeast This is my Steam name. /TEKKEN 7/ Joined: Posts: 10
    For the Crown 309:

    Are you able to acquire a tension inbetween Crown's 35A & 45A silicone grommets using the Golden Crown mod set?
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 638
    dblbeast wrote: »
    For the Crown 309:

    Are you able to acquire a tension inbetween Crown's 35A & 45A silicone grommets using the Golden Crown mod set?

    @wazwuz I hope your dad is doing better. Hey, have you thought about offering a 40A grommet for the Crown. I'm seeing A TON of people say that 35A is too soft and 45A is too hard. Offering a 40A would help a ton of people out and be lucrative for your business as well. Just a suggestion. Take care man!
    "Play the game to learn not to win. Do this and winning will start to come all on its own." - some smart guy
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 217
    edited January 8
    @VarmintBaby the older golden fanta batches had the 40A grommet but it's discontinued meow.
  • dblbeastdblbeast This is my Steam name. /TEKKEN 7/ Joined: Posts: 10
    dblbeast wrote: »
    For the Crown 309:

    Are you able to acquire a tension inbetween Crown's 35A & 45A silicone grommets using the Golden Crown mod set?

    @wazwuz I hope your dad is doing better. Hey, have you thought about offering a 40A grommet for the Crown. I'm seeing A TON of people say that 35A is too soft and 45A is too hard. Offering a 40A would help a ton of people out and be lucrative for your business as well. Just a suggestion. Take care man!

    I messaged wazwuz recently. He simply said the Golden Crown grommets feel different because they have a different design, and I would have to play around with a combination of the spring + grommet. I believe someone in this thread said a ±5 shore A may exist going from manufacturer to manufacturer, but... surely, someone who has tried the Golden Crown grommets must have tried Crown's official 35A & 45A grommets and can comment on them. Heck, if wazwuz is afraid to comment, he must know someone who can speak their opinion.

    The grommet is definitely the main factor affecting my performance. The spring is merely complementary. If anyone can guarantee me a grommet that feels like it's inbetween Crown's official 35A & 45A, I'll gladly pay $20 for it. I just want to finally perfect my stick after struggling for years (only switched from JLF --> Crown recently).
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 119
    So I read earlier that SRK forums are going to be no more by the end of January. I'm bummed because without it, I wouldn't know as much about Korean levers as I currently do. Curious as to where to migrate to keep current discussions. I read that there'll possibly be a SRK Reddit but who knows.

    http://shoryuken.com/2018/01/08/srk-forums-to-close-at-the-end-of-january-2018/
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • masked ridermasked rider Henshin! Joined: Posts: 1,275
    edited January 8
    @jey-are Just came here to post about that. I think it would be prudent to find a new home for this thread, and potentially archive any useful information (some of @Agieze posts come to mind). As for a new home, /r/fightsticks might make the most sense. Maybe even a K-stick Discord?
  • HassunHassun Joined: Posts: 122
    edited January 8
    Damn I owe so much to the SRK forums for tech support and information. This is a huge bummer.
    Considering its importance in the history of the FGC I think they should at least archive the entire thing.
  • LordFuLordFu Joined: Posts: 57
    Yeah, this is really unfortunate. I've learned nearly everything I know about arcade parts on this forum. It's been a great resource.
  • N7KhanN7Khan Joined: Posts: 14
    I've likewise learned a ton about arcade sticks and Kstick configurations from here and am deeply saddened to see it go. Hopefully we can find a place to migrate to and continue these discussions.
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