Korean arcade parts discussion

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  • warheadwarhead Joined: Posts: 23
    ykd wrote: »
    warhead wrote: »
    I'm finding diagonals difficult to hit on the Crown 309MJ (A3 switches), do i just need to get used to using a K stick or is this something possibly indicative of this model/switch?

    Someone mentioned that the different A3 models actually perform differently. That may be the case with yours. But otherwise it is just a matter of technique.
    if you have these Switches "GSM-V1623A3" then you have the better A3 model. if you have the older #, I don't have off hand but that could be the cause for sure. if you have the right ones. then it's likely you are not used to the lever.
    Looks like it’s probably just me then, I’ll continue hitting the lab. Thanks!
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 125
    Anyone one of you guys try that microswitch mod that Superhwoarang (I think it was him) tried? I been thinking about trying it on some Gersung A2's to improve it's actuation a tad bit earlier. Tape makes me feel "meh" but you can yank it back off if you don't like it.
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 124
    jey-are wrote: »
    Anyone one of you guys try that microswitch mod that Superhwoarang (I think it was him) tried? I been thinking about trying it on some Gersung A2's to improve it's actuation a tad bit earlier. Tape makes me feel "meh" but you can yank it back off if you don't like it.
    I think you’re talking about Hibals? With the tape under the plungers inner base right? I did it on a set of AM5s and it made em feek very good. Cleaned them out a bit and it make them feel pretty much new.

  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 124
    warhead wrote: »
    ykd wrote: »
    warhead wrote: »
    I'm finding diagonals difficult to hit on the Crown 309MJ (A3 switches), do i just need to get used to using a K stick or is this something possibly indicative of this model/switch?

    Someone mentioned that the different A3 models actually perform differently. That may be the case with yours. But otherwise it is just a matter of technique.
    if you have these Switches "GSM-V1623A3" then you have the better A3 model. if you have the older #, I don't have off hand but that could be the cause for sure. if you have the right ones. then it's likely you are not used to the lever.
    Looks like it’s probably just me then, I’ll continue hitting the lab. Thanks!

    No sweat man. Depending how you got the lever right now, any mods or not you can try some different stuff out to help. Just curious what character you use / any specific diagonals. You should look into getting a different actuator to help with the coverage too perhaps.
  • warheadwarhead Joined: Posts: 23
    I’m using it with the 35a grommet. I’m having the most issues with trying to KBD and getting down/down back instead of just down back. I’m trying to slow down and really get the feel of the diagonal and can hit it maybe 50-60% of the time without getting down first. Oh and I’m playing Lars.
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 125
    ykd wrote: »
    jey-are wrote: »
    Anyone one of you guys try that microswitch mod that Superhwoarang (I think it was him) tried? I been thinking about trying it on some Gersung A2's to improve it's actuation a tad bit earlier. Tape makes me feel "meh" but you can yank it back off if you don't like it.
    I think you’re talking about Hibals? With the tape under the plungers inner base right? I did it on a set of AM5s and it made em feek very good. Cleaned them out a bit and it make them feel pretty much new.

    Yes sir, that's the one. When you say you cleaned them out, you mean like contact cleaner? Then air duster? I was thinking if I did it and had to go back, the part where the plastic base meets the metal contact point would need to be swiped or cleaned some how. Swab of some sort.
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • swanswan Joined: Posts: 4
    Hello guys, sorry if this has been already asked:
    whats the difference between the crown 309helpme lever and the Myoungshin Fanta lever? what's better?
    thanks a lot!
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 125
    swan wrote: »
    Hello guys, sorry if this has been already asked:
    whats the difference between the crown 309helpme lever and the Myoungshin Fanta lever? what's better?
    thanks a lot!

    Almost everything is different between the 309 Helpme vs Myoungshin fanta. Their only real similarity is that they are both Korean mounted style lever. Which is better is clearly a preference question that you will get anecdotal answers.

    For the most part, just looking at some pictures of both will tell you a lot.

    What the pictures won't tell you are things like:
    • they both have different base. Crown's base mold, to me, is superior to Myoungshin. A lot of people make modifications to Myoungshin's base because the microswitches don't sit flush (flat against the base), they actually sit at a slight angle. Which could result in a later actuation.
    • the grommets are made of different material. Myoungshin uses latex. Crown uses silicone. Both have different feel. M-fanta's shore rating is at 50a. While 309 helpme is 35a. Imo, even though Myoungshin is more, there's switch actuation happening before the grommet comes into play. If I remember correctly, when I first got my Myoungshin (not the newer IST version), I thought it was just a loose lever. But in reality, most of my movement was happening before the grommet was really doing some work. In some ways, I'd say it acted more like a gate of some sort. The 309 helpme has earlier grommet activation versus the Myoungshin's but at 35a it's not going to tire you out as quick. Even though the 309 helpme has a grommet at 35a shore, it's slightly thicker. It's ability to return to neutral isn't hindered at all IMO.
    • Crown uses a spring to help reduce wobble that could cause unintended inputs from deflection from the return to neutral. Myoungshin doesn't use one but that doesn't mean it's necessary. Some people prefer the wobble.
    • Myoungshin's collar hole is bigger (I think?) Which means a further throw. Tbh, like a said earlier, the grommet acts like a stage 1 gate before hitting the collar. I don't remember riding the collar so much on a stock Myoungshin. The crown 309 helpme seems like I ride the collar more. Which says a couple things: 1. Throw isn't as far (which could be something people prefer) 2. Diagonals may feel tighter on the Helpme. I hit the collar every time I go for a diagonal input on the Helpme, sometimes you may have to dig a little deeper on the input than one would be accustomed to. Also results in more collar knock (noise). Something to consider if you game while people sleep.

    I'm trying to think of some other things that pictures won't tell you. But can't think of anything else at the moment. Maybe some other ppl will chime in.

    This is purely my opinion, but which is better out of the box? Bone stock? Imo, the 309 help me. I swap back and forth between a modded M-fanta and a stock 309 helpme. I don't feel a dying need to change it. My crown 309 Helpme came with discontinued Panasonic microswitches though. I can't really give any input on it with Gersung A3's (1623a3), but I hear good things about it.

    Hope this helps.
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • swanswan Joined: Posts: 4
    jey-are wrote: »
    swan wrote: »
    Hello guys, sorry if this has been already asked:
    whats the difference between the crown 309helpme lever and the Myoungshin Fanta lever? what's better?
    thanks a lot!

    Almost everything is different between the 309 Helpme vs Myoungshin fanta. Their only real similarity is that they are both Korean mounted style lever. Which is better is clearly a preference question that you will get anecdotal answers.
    ...
    thanks a lot for your reply,very deep and specific.
    I forgot to mention that i already own a crown 309helpme (the one that comes with the japanese micro switches) and the taeyoung fanta. with the 309 im feeling definitely better,no diagonal issues, but i find it "loose" when it returns to neutral.
    is it worth get the m-fanta or its just a waste of money since i already have the 309? let me know, thanks
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 125
    swan wrote: »
    jey-are wrote: »
    swan wrote: »
    Hello guys, sorry if this has been already asked:
    whats the difference between the crown 309helpme lever and the Myoungshin Fanta lever? what's better?
    thanks a lot!

    Almost everything is different between the 309 Helpme vs Myoungshin fanta. Their only real similarity is that they are both Korean mounted style lever. Which is better is clearly a preference question that you will get anecdotal answers.
    ...
    thanks a lot for your reply,very deep and specific.
    I forgot to mention that i already own a crown 309helpme (the one that comes with the japanese micro switches) and the taeyoung fanta. with the 309 im feeling definitely better,no diagonal issues, but i find it "loose" when it returns to neutral.
    is it worth get the m-fanta or its just a waste of money since i already have the 309? let me know, thanks

    If I was in your shoes and liked the 309 over the Taeyoung, I would use that money towards the next step up in resistance. Which would be the 45a grommet for crown's 309. This would test if your return to neutral is better while still keeping a lever that you favor. Imo, the 45a is a little stiff for me in a long session of game play, but that's just me. I've heard of ppl breaking it in after awhile. Either that or they got stronger lol.
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • swanswan Joined: Posts: 4
    jey-are wrote: »
    swan wrote: »
    jey-are wrote: »
    swan wrote: »
    Hello guys, sorry if this has been already asked:
    whats the difference between the crown 309helpme lever and the Myoungshin Fanta lever? what's better?
    thanks a lot!

    Almost everything is different between the 309 Helpme vs Myoungshin fanta. Their only real similarity is that they are both Korean mounted style lever. Which is better is clearly a preference question that you will get anecdotal answers.
    ...
    thanks a lot for your reply,very deep and specific.
    I forgot to mention that i already own a crown 309helpme (the one that comes with the japanese micro switches) and the taeyoung fanta. with the 309 im feeling definitely better,no diagonal issues, but i find it "loose" when it returns to neutral.
    is it worth get the m-fanta or its just a waste of money since i already have the 309? let me know, thanks

    If I was in your shoes and liked the 309 over the Taeyoung, I would use that money towards the next step up in resistance. Which would be the 45a grommet for crown's 309. This would test if your return to neutral is better while still keeping a lever that you favor. Imo, the 45a is a little stiff for me in a long session of game play, but that's just me. I've heard of ppl breaking it in after awhile. Either that or they got stronger lol.
    good idea, thanks! have you ever tried the taeyoung?
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 125
    swan wrote: »
    jey-are wrote: »
    swan wrote: »
    jey-are wrote: »
    swan wrote: »
    Hello guys, sorry if this has been already asked:
    whats the difference between the crown 309helpme lever and the Myoungshin Fanta lever? what's better?
    thanks a lot!

    Almost everything is different between the 309 Helpme vs Myoungshin fanta. Their only real similarity is that they are both Korean mounted style lever. Which is better is clearly a preference question that you will get anecdotal answers.
    ...
    thanks a lot for your reply,very deep and specific.
    I forgot to mention that i already own a crown 309helpme (the one that comes with the japanese micro switches) and the taeyoung fanta. with the 309 im feeling definitely better,no diagonal issues, but i find it "loose" when it returns to neutral.
    is it worth get the m-fanta or its just a waste of money since i already have the 309? let me know, thanks

    If I was in your shoes and liked the 309 over the Taeyoung, I would use that money towards the next step up in resistance. Which would be the 45a grommet for crown's 309. This would test if your return to neutral is better while still keeping a lever that you favor. Imo, the 45a is a little stiff for me in a long session of game play, but that's just me. I've heard of ppl breaking it in after awhile. Either that or they got stronger lol.
    good idea, thanks! have you ever tried the taeyoung?

    Sorry man, I haven't tried it yet. Taeyoung seems solid though. Most complaint I can recall on them is the stock actuator.
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • rbuniaorbuniao Joined: Posts: 189
    I might have to purchase a new set of Golden Fanta parts. The OG ones were great but with the addition of the support plates, core bushing kit, and the new green grommet it made the Fanta experience even better.
  • jey-arejey-are Intermediate Noob Joined: Posts: 125
    edited January 29
    ykd wrote: »
    TLDR: New GF stuff is awesome. Was asked to post by @wazwuz I hope it is useful.

    Nice breakdown man. The weight differences are interesting. I was also curious if there was anything out there close to the AM5's and this seems hopeful. I'm curious how the new green grommet feels versus the OG one.
    rbuniao wrote: »
    I might have to purchase a new set of Golden Fanta parts. The OG ones were great but with the addition of the support plates, core bushing kit, and the new green grommet it made the Fanta experience even better.

    Same here man. I don't have that upper support switch plate. New delrin hardware and silicone grommets seem enticing. Some good switch options too? Hmmmmm

    Edit: just noticed he was some things individually in his shop versus buying whole kits.
    -Psn ID: JxRx420
    -Instagram: jeyrizzy
    -Usually plays Tekken.
  • dblbeastdblbeast This is my Steam name. /TEKKEN 7/ Joined: Posts: 16
    ykd wrote: »
    The only time I did not like the Hanyoung was in the Myoungshin body with the 14.5mm Actuator, as the switch placement was further away, and it sometimes could make your diagonals miss.

    That happens to be like the Green lever setup, huh? 14.5mm actuator but with AM5's. Though you're using 55A vs 45A.
    Just find it interesting how you find the travel a problem, but it's how Green's set up to be like. Unless I'm missing some critical detail.
  • BrownBiLLsBrownBiLLs Joined: Posts: 13
    edited January 30
    @wazwuz Hey I purchased the both support plates for the micro switches and the new delrin actuators/core. Is the core meant for the fanta grommets? Or are they specific to the grommets on your website? Or is the fanta grommet the same dimensions/fit as the ones you provide?
    Also, what are the dimensions of the myoungshin actuator (including ID and length) as well as taeyoung. I'm asking because I used the myoungshin actuator on my taeyoung for a week, and it was a tight fit (ID was small and length was too long) so when I decided to switch back to my myoungshin, I took the actuator out of my taeyoung and noticed dust caused from wear on the length and ID of the actuator and the surface of the taeyoung core. Now when I put the actuator back into my myoungshin, it has a larger neutral zone which is bothering me.
    Post edited by BrownBiLLs on
  • AgiezeAgieze Joined: Posts: 324
    edited January 30
    @ykd mentioned "Hanyung SVM 6171" switches.

    It seems the exact same switch is found under various other brand names, probably because these brands distribute and rebrand : Paragon Electronics SVM 6171-02, Yun Myung SVM6171-02 etc etc.
    Paragon specializes in distributing taiwanese components.

    Switch SVM 6171-02 specs at Yun Myung (02 stands for hinge ) :

    http://ymmicro.com/shopping/shop/listbody.html?a_gb=shop&a_cd=5&a_item=0&sm=2_1&po_it_lclass=i_100&po_it_no=i_100207&po_no=207

    Comparing specs with Panasonic AM5 switch at 180gf :

    *SVM6171-02 and Panasonic switches both have max180gf operating force (pana is exactly max 180.5gf) , both have also16A rating and 30gf release/reset force (pana is really 29.57gf) and pretravel distance (3.2mm) is exactly the same on both spec sheets.

    *SVM617102 has 1.2mm overtravel while the panasonic AM5 plunger goes a bit deeper at max 1.4mm past the actuation point .

    *SVM617102 has a bit more movement differential at 1.2mm while Panasonic has only 1mm

    *SVM617102 operating point location fluctuates a tad more ( 15.37+-0.1mm) than the panasonic one(15.3+-0.1mm) .

    The switches overall indeed have very close actuation specs, on paper at least.


    Korean company Yun Myung has arcade levers on their website catalog, some arcade models have switches on a PCB as seen on japanese models , but they give no further details about them other than external dimensions :
    http://ymmicro.com/shopping/shop/list.html?a_gb=shop&a_cd=5&a_item=0&sm=2_8_0&po_it_lclass=i80&page=2
    http://ymmicro.com/shopping/shop/list.html?a_gb=shop&a_cd=5&a_item=0&sm=2_8_0&po_it_lclass=i80&page=3

    Clones galore....???
    Post edited by Agieze on
  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 34
    @ykd could you give a review on some of the Derlin stuff? just bought a set myself. Really interested on how the derlin core compares to the metal one and what comparisons you found and the weight of the materials and how it affects the joystick performance, mainly interested in relation to a 7mm and 14.5mm setup.
  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 124
    m_abdalla3 wrote: »
    @ykd could you give a review on some of the Derlin stuff? just bought a set myself. Really interested on how the derlin core compares to the metal one and what comparisons you found and the weight of the materials and how it affects the joystick performance, mainly interested in relation to a 7mm and 14.5mm setup.

    Sure man. I will get some stuff together and try to get a post done up for later today for you. With some pics. And the performance. Quick summary though they are much much lighter. So it can make things “quicker” so to speak. With me usually using a fairly stiff Grommet I find that it kinda helps take the added weight of the brass away. I’m not too sure how it feels with lighter Grommets. But I am definitely a fan. The Bushing Core especially. I’ll be back in a few hours!
  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 124
    dblbeast wrote: »
    ykd wrote: »
    The only time I did not like the Hanyoung was in the Myoungshin body with the 14.5mm Actuator, as the switch placement was further away, and it sometimes could make your diagonals miss.

    That happens to be like the Green lever setup, huh? 14.5mm actuator but with AM5's. Though you're using 55A vs 45A.
    Just find it interesting how you find the travel a problem, but it's how Green's set up to be like. Unless I'm missing some critical detail.
    With AM5s the blades / arms are longer and a bit wider to compensate for the distance. But the Hanyoung ones have trouble registering diagonals in rapid succession “fully against collar diagonal registered, you let off like 5 mm and go back again into collar, the switch stayed activated so it won’t register the 2nd diagonal”. It also may have to do with different plunger depth like @Agieze mentioned. It’s reallt just an issue with deep diagonals.

  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 124
    BrownBiLLs wrote: »
    @wazwuz Hey I purchased the both support plates for the micro switches and the new delrin actuators/core. Is the core meant for the fanta grommets? Or are they specific to the grommets on your website? Or is the fanta grommet the same dimensions/fit as the ones you provide?
    Also, what are the dimensions of the myoungshin actuator (including ID and length) as well as taeyoung. I'm asking because I used the myoungshin actuator on my taeyoung for a week, and it was a tight fit (ID was small and length was too long) so when I decided to switch back to my myoungshin, I took the actuator out of my taeyoung and noticed dust caused from wear on the length and ID of the actuator and the surface of the taeyoung core. Now when I put the actuator back into my myoungshin, it has a larger neutral zone which is bothering me.
    The cores will work with any style Fanta Grommets. I can try to get you those actuator measurements too. Which Myoungshin one do you use the black or new white one?
  • BrownBiLLsBrownBiLLs Joined: Posts: 13
    @ykd it's the black one. Can you also get the length and ID of the new delrin actuators too? Thanks I appreciate it. And does @wazwuz send an email when the product is shipped? I ordered Sunday night and I didn't get an update on the order yet
  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 34
    @ykd also when i ordered the derlin set, i also ordered the 14.5mm metal actuator, will this one be the new material one??
  • TekkenKaziTekkenKazi Joined: Posts: 15
    rtXQ3x.jpg

    i designed new actuator with black delrin for crown bat grip sized
  • zero_requiemzero_requiem Joined: Posts: 222
    m_abdalla3 wrote: »
    @ykd also when i ordered the derlin set, i also ordered the 14.5mm metal actuator, will this one be the new material one??

    Yup. All golden fanta actuators have the updated design meow.
  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 124
    BrownBiLLs wrote: »
    @wazwuz Hey I purchased the both support plates for the micro switches and the new delrin actuators/core. Is the core meant for the fanta grommets? Or are they specific to the grommets on your website? Or is the fanta grommet the same dimensions/fit as the ones you provide?
    Also, what are the dimensions of the myoungshin actuator (including ID and length) as well as taeyoung. I'm asking because I used the myoungshin actuator on my taeyoung for a week, and it was a tight fit (ID was small and length was too long) so when I decided to switch back to my myoungshin, I took the actuator out of my taeyoung and noticed dust caused from wear on the length and ID of the actuator and the surface of the taeyoung core. Now when I put the actuator back into my myoungshin, it has a larger neutral zone which is bothering me.

    Myoungshin Black Actuator:
    Length:17.3mm
    Outter Diameter:16.4mm
    Inner Diameter: 6.9mm

    Taeyoung Actuator:
    Length: 17.3mm
    OD: 15.4mm
    ID: 7.3mm

    Golden Fanta Delrin Actuators:
    Inner Diameter: 6.9mm

    Sorry took a couple days to reply. been dealing with some stuff at home. but hopefully this helps you out.
  • BrownBiLLsBrownBiLLs Joined: Posts: 13
    @ykd interesting. That's great buddy, thanks.
  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 34
    edited February 5
    Recieved my parts in the mail. I can say that the new shin etsu gromett are really good, it doesn't have the mushy feeling to it and now i have a revised 14.5m so i can use it in the fujin. This is my new favorite setup so far, green shin etsu, hard spring, 7mm and 14.5mm. For some reason i still don't feel that the green feels as hard as the IST soft grometts which i do prefer, and the light blue feels abit too stiff for a fujin setup. Good thing about the springs is that putting the hard spring made the tension feel a little more tougher which was great. The weight revision of the metal is really good, it is much lighter and i prefer it this way for the actuators.


    The light blue shin etsu (medium spring) works good on the Fanta 7mm and 14.5mm setup with all the switch support. My fujin has been out of action for a month or so while using the fanta as my main stick until these parts came in.

    As for the derlin parts, it was hard for me to notice a difference with the core. I remember the metal one when i was used it i felt like it was hitting something at initial use, but honestly after a few hours i didn't have this problem (i think my execution adjusted abit after a few hours). This derlin core hasn't made any noise from first use, so i can't really tell any noticable difference.

    Since the dimensions should be the same, the metal core wouldnt make the gromett feel any tighter would it? If so ill consider going back to the metal core. Haven't tried the derlin 14.5mm actuator yet. Would like to know everyone elses experience with the comparison of the derlin and revised metal parts / shin etsu

    These parts are great overall, it feels like a finishing touch, making the stick setup more complete.

  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 34
    L
  • ykdykd Joined: Posts: 124
    m_abdalla3 wrote: »
    Recieved my parts in the mail. I can say that the new shin etsu gromett are really good, it doesn't have the mushy feeling to it and now i have a revised 14.5m so i can use it in the fujin. This is my new favorite setup so far, green shin etsu, hard spring, 7mm and 14.5mm. For some reason i still don't feel that the green feels as hard as the IST soft grometts which i do prefer, and the light blue feels abit too stiff for a fujin setup.

    Sorry man I just had to laugh. What ? The blue shin Etsu is too hard for a Fujin setup? I know you have a Fujin, and the stock setup on the Fujin is much stiffer than the blue Shin Etsu. A real Fujin is supposed to be stiff as hell. That’s why Airbaguy makes them that way.
  • safahrisafahri Joined: Posts: 2
    Hello, long time reader. Today I installed the GF core + heavy spring into my Myoungshin Fanta with the 7mm shaft, 14.5mm actuator and green 45A silicone. I seem to be getting a lot of wobble still. I'm guessing this is because there is a substantial deadzone due to the smaller actuator. I'm testing AM5 and Gersung A3 microswitches. I'm wondering if this is normal or if I should feel a very stiff stick? Video for example:

    Thanks!
  • MeiliIsCharmMeiliIsCharm Joined: Posts: 26
    Hello, can somebody tell me where I can get the super hwoarang? I live in Korea so shipping wouldn't be a problem
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Project Joined: Posts: 445
    BrownBiLLs wrote: »
    @wazwuz Hey I purchased the both support plates for the micro switches and the new delrin actuators/core. Is the core meant for the fanta grommets? Or are they specific to the grommets on your website? Or is the fanta grommet the same dimensions/fit as the ones you provide?
    Also, what are the dimensions of the myoungshin actuator (including ID and length) as well as taeyoung. I'm asking because I used the myoungshin actuator on my taeyoung for a week, and it was a tight fit (ID was small and length was too long) so when I decided to switch back to my myoungshin, I took the actuator out of my taeyoung and noticed dust caused from wear on the length and ID of the actuator and the surface of the taeyoung core. Now when I put the actuator back into my myoungshin, it has a larger neutral zone which is bothering me.

    yes the core is for Fanta grommets
    safahri wrote: »
    Hello, long time reader. Today I installed the GF core + heavy spring into my Myoungshin Fanta with the 7mm shaft, 14.5mm actuator and green 45A silicone. I seem to be getting a lot of wobble still. I'm guessing this is because there is a substantial deadzone due to the smaller actuator. I'm testing AM5 and Gersung A3 microswitches. I'm wondering if this is normal or if I should feel a very stiff stick? Video for example:

    Thanks!

    Thank you for sharing your setup.
    The wobble you experience is normal, lower tension silicone tends to wobble than harder one.
    the wobble GF eliminate is death zone wobble (you can try it by removing the spring)
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • BrownBiLLsBrownBiLLs Joined: Posts: 13
    @wazwuz I received the package today. I see a clear difference between machined and injection molded actuator. I already favored taeyoung (medium grommet) over myoungshin and crown, but the only thing i despised was the extra large dead zone. Thanks to the spring, no dead zone. And unlike the crown, it doesn't add to the tension of the grommet, so in my opinion, GF is a better spring design. I haven't tried the brass but I feel that added weight would affect my movement, so I appreciate the delrin. It's a hard plastic with low friction and I'm sure it will wear very slow. The only one I've tried so far is the 16mm in my taeyoung and I'm not gonna switch anytime soon. I felt myoungshin actuator was hitting diagonals too soon on my taeyoung, but was still an improvement over the stock taeyoung actuator which would miss diagonals. I feel 16 mm is the most suitable size. Overall, this mod makes my movement, spacing and bdc the most quick, easy and fluid so far. This was a satisfying purchase.

    The mounting plate will need some extra work to sit flat on my myoungshin. The position of the holes for the nuts are slightly too close towards the middle so I'm gonna have to use a file to make some clearance for the nuts. I haven't tried applying the support plate yet, not until I get the mounting plate first.

    I have a question, Is there any benefit of filing and sanding the myoungshin body for the support plate if I'm gonna use it with the mounting plate?
  • wazwuzwazwuz Golden Project Joined: Posts: 445
    BrownBiLLs wrote: »
    @wazwuz I received the package today. I see a clear difference between machined and injection molded actuator. I already favored taeyoung (medium grommet) over myoungshin and crown, but the only thing i despised was the extra large dead zone. Thanks to the spring, no dead zone. And unlike the crown, it doesn't add to the tension of the grommet, so in my opinion, GF is a better spring design. I haven't tried the brass but I feel that added weight would affect my movement, so I appreciate the delrin. It's a hard plastic with low friction and I'm sure it will wear very slow. The only one I've tried so far is the 16mm in my taeyoung and I'm not gonna switch anytime soon. I felt myoungshin actuator was hitting diagonals too soon on my taeyoung, but was still an improvement over the stock taeyoung actuator which would miss diagonals. I feel 16 mm is the most suitable size. Overall, this mod makes my movement, spacing and bdc the most quick, easy and fluid so far. This was a satisfying purchase.

    The mounting plate will need some extra work to sit flat on my myoungshin. The position of the holes for the nuts are slightly too close towards the middle so I'm gonna have to use a file to make some clearance for the nuts. I haven't tried applying the support plate yet, not until I get the mounting plate first.

    I have a question, Is there any benefit of filing and sanding the myoungshin body for the support plate if I'm gonna use it with the mounting plate?

    Thank you. I glad you like it. You can use switch mounting without sanding myungshin body. Just be carefull when installing it since acrylic tends to crack easily and myungshin body is suffer form wraping which make the mounting need some gentle force when installing
    ArcadeStick-Indonesia.com
  • safahrisafahri Joined: Posts: 2
    wazwuz wrote: »
    Thank you for sharing your setup.
    The wobble you experience is normal, lower tension silicone tends to wobble than harder one.
    the wobble GF eliminate is death zone wobble (you can try it by removing the spring)

    Awesome, good to know! Just wanted to make sure the wobble I was experiencing was due to the lower tension silicone and smaller actuator and not a setup error on my part. Keep making great mods, this is one of the reasons I love k-sticks so much!

  • MariosMarios Joined: Posts: 76
    edited February 6
    Recieved my new GF parts today .

    Grommets !!!!!!!!!!!!!! I recommend the green one , and generally that badge of grommet's PERFECT product i dont know what else to say , i was havign so much issue with grommets and feel and mushy and snappy and what not with almost all the grommets rubbers on the market. that product cant get any better .

    After i tried the new revised 14,5 actuator delrin one and brass one , i dont really know what to think about the delrin it feels diffrent than what am used to so far but its really good one thing i noticed though into play it feels bigger than 14,5 anyone has measurements ?
    I really like the brass one it is abit lighter and the inputs are perfect first combo ive done when i installed it ===> https://gyazo.com/b1b6784e8eea9746eef67b4d0f3bcb05

    Delrin core , this one is really huge improvement but still have the same issue with the brass one ...in my opinion the hole diameter should be perfect fit for the GF shafts plus the lip that touches/hugs the shaft should have more body / be bigger but thats personal opinion ofc .
    i am battling wich one i like the most because i was using the brass core for so long i dont know if am just used to the brass i keep practising with the delrin .

    Microswitches
    I really liked the clicky Hanyoung ones and they feel very close to am5's but i really dont want to start loving them and then due to the discontinued nto be able to found them so i played few minutes and changed to OMRONS !
    Omrons i think its the next thing we gonna see in korean levers all time , they feel a mix of am5's and a2's kind of wierd thing , they are very responsive and very sensitive i really liked them !

    I am not a fan of the springs anymore i realised that they make you lose movement momentum , personal opinion though , although i noticed without them i get some random jumps that the spring eliminates so ill keep revisiting them and see what i can do with them . definatly worth using them though !

    CONS about the new revised actuators delrin and brass is that they dont fit the old GF shafts i have , seems the shafts are too big sadly ~!

    Really glad where this project has evolved to and i would really like to see some more changes to perfection especially with the core !
    @wazwuz

  • m_abdalla3m_abdalla3 Joined: Posts: 34
    @ykd yeah the stock setup was too much for me when I got it, but the light blue actually has a nice feel to it and I feel like a lot of people will like it. With more use the tension of the green gromett I have started to really like.

    I’ve tried the derlin and brass core, the weight difference you can feel it when moving the stick around, it does make a difference to the way the stick handles, It doesn’t effect tension or anything. I’ve also changed to the derlin 14.5mm and can also feel a weight difference. I personally like it but can see myself changing in between for different setups between the 2 actuator materials
  • dblbeastdblbeast This is my Steam name. /TEKKEN 7/ Joined: Posts: 16
    @zero_requiem @kodee vu For microswitches, I know you guys have recommended using 3 AM5's + 1 Gersung A2 for "down" for fast crouch dash. I tried replicating this with Hanyoungs instead of AM5's, using a Taeyoung base with a 7mm shaft & 14.5mm GF actuator (I like the greater throw compared to the Myoungshin). When I tried out my wd motion with 1 A2 for "down", I kept skipping the neutral, inputting "f,d,d/f,f" over and over again. I was wondering if you guys could provide some insight on why this was the case and how it should be done to take advantage of the A2 switch. Most likely it's my personal technique and/or setup, but I found the result a little extreme.
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