Brook Universal Fighting Board Thread

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  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    edited June 2016
    KingRaoh wrote: »
    Does the newest update really improve response time on the PS4? I can't tell.

    That is the point of faster response time. The critical score to beat is less than a frame ( 1 frame in 60 fps game is 16.67 ms).
    Of course the faster the better, but once you are under that frame time span, you get in the realm of diminishing returns.
    Once you are at approx 10ms its hard to tell where your inputs lands as most 60 FPS fighting games process any input once per frame.
    Its when you have 2 or more frames of lag when you start to really see the lost of performance.
    Some people with sharper eye hand coordination can supposedly catch a sub frame event, but as it past 10ms it becomes harder and harder to notice.
    It also gets worst the older you become. There really is not that many pro players in the thirties, although those who do train themselves do better than those who don't.
    A trained Pro gamer at 32 is going to still have quicker reflexes and visual acuity than a non gamer at 23. But in General a 23 year old will have better reflexes than a 32 year old.

    So if my stick has a latency of 11ms and your stick has the latency of 9ms, as long we both got our inputs at the same time with in the same frame we are treated as inputting at the same moment even if you are technically first.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
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  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 257
    Recently put in a UFB into a madcatz te and had a few issues of my buddies PS4 saying too many USB devices connected then my stick would turn off. It was only his Madcatz te2 and my stick so I ended up moving the board inside my box and it didn't happen again. I thought maybe the USB wasn't in correctly but is this a thing that can happen? I soldered the RS LS Turbo and Home from the PCB onto the fightboard but does this cause more draw or anything. After I moved the board around in the TE I didn't have the same issue for the rest of the night(about 4 hours).
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    What USB cable were you using ? The USB A to B printer type cable, or a cable soldered onto the USB header pins or connected by a jumper (if your UFB was presoldered?)
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 257
    USB A to B printer cable
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    Then I have no idea. I'm sorry.
    What is the UFB mounted on? How did you screw it in?
    Was it touching metal ? Maybe something was shorted out?
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 257
    I had it sitting on the very bottom of the TE itself so the chances of it touching metal are pretty high. I ended up moving it to sit on the plastic above next to the stock PCB and didn't have it spaz it again. I'm guessing having it touch metal is a big no no?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,374
    edited July 2016
    It's causing a short 100%. Never let a bare PCB touch a metal surface.

    Go to Michaels and get adhesive backed craft foam, cut it to fit you UFB and stick it to the bottom. Instant insulator.

    Here's what I am talking about: http://www.michaels.com/creatology-adhesive-foam-sheet/M10032002.html?dwvar_M10032002_color=Black#q=foam&start=87
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
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  • sasquachsasquach Joined: Posts: 369
    I had it sitting on the very bottom of the TE itself so the chances of it touching metal are pretty high. I ended up moving it to sit on the plastic above next to the stock PCB and didn't have it spaz it again. I'm guessing having it touch metal is a big no no?

    Having it touch the metal panel below kinda bridge solder contacts. So next time you want it on the "metal panel", just kinda put some non-static barrier below or something, or even put it in a box. Basically having it on the metal panel is a big no no. But yea don't do that next time Illya, luckily the board didn't die. xD
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • BubbledotjpgBubbledotjpg Joined: Posts: 257
    Thank god it didn't fry I can't believe I didn't think of that. I do have some of the adhesive PCB mounts on the way thanks for the help guys.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    No problem. Just double check and make sure everything is working. Now you see why virtually all PCBs of any type are either mounted on insulated standsoffs of some sort or on wood/plastic.
  • truendymiontruendymion Beer Me! Joined: Posts: 2,253
    Anybody have suggestions on an easy way to mount the pcb in a Razor Atrox?
    I'm making a fighting game!
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  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 497
    I just screwed it down with an improvised plastic spacer beneath it. Trick is to screw down one hole the turn it a bit till a second hole lines up with the honeycomb.

  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    Use the Honey Comb material to screw the PCB in
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,830
    hot glue
    SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year 2015
    Need a stick modded? I can dual mod, repair, and customize your stick or Hitbox for PS4/PS3/XB1/360

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    lol
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    McRib juice.
  • FeiWrongFeiWrong Joined: Posts: 358
    edited July 2016
    If you had to choose only one of them wired up: tpkey, R3 or L3 button?

    (I ask here because it's on my UFB, but I could, of course, have asked in another general thread. But screw it.)
  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 497
    It depends of the platform you play most on.
    On ps4 definitely tpkey.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    sfOmar wrote: »
    If you had to choose only one of them wired up: tpkey, R3 or L3 button?

    (I ask here because it's on my UFB, but I could, of course, have asked in another general thread. But screw it.)

    TPkey for PS4. TPkey will function as "Select" in all non PS4 games. TPkey is pretty important!
    R3 and L3 are the same buttons as the "Analog push buttons" on the Xbox 360 controllers. That is, pushing down the left stick or right stick for the click buttons under them. Not essential but can be VERY useful for shortcut keys in SF5. Most fighting games don't use these buttons.

  • FeiWrongFeiWrong Joined: Posts: 358
    Okey! TPkey it is. Thanks:)
  • FeiWrongFeiWrong Joined: Posts: 358
    edited July 2016
    I have a question. I'm gonna put the UFB in my madcatz SE (if you must know, I like the size of it more then my other sticks), and I've wired everything up, except for two things:

    1) I want the LS, DP, RS switch to work, and
    2) I want the xbox 360 home button to light up when it's on.

    Everything else works fine.

    The problem with the switch, is that I can only find the wires for LS and RS from turbo panel pcb (where the switch and home button are located). What will happen if I solder on the wires only for LS and RS, and the DP holes on the board remain unused?

    The second question is how do I get the xbox 360 button to light up? What and where do I solder?

    Here is a picture of the stock PCB, that shows the wires that from the turbo panel:

    Its CN4, 5, and 6 that are relevant.

    EXtTcK0.jpg

    I hope I made the questions clear. Thanks in advance!
  • mR_CaESaRmR_CaESaR Joined: Posts: 729
    You wire the "R stick" to RS on the UFB and "L Stick" to the LS of the UFB

    As for the XBOX home to light up, you'll have to use the secondary board, look for d3, d4, d5, d6 and wire them respectively to the P1, P2, P3, P4 sections on the UFB
  • FeiWrongFeiWrong Joined: Posts: 358
    edited July 2016
    mR_CaESaR wrote: »
    You wire the "R stick" to RS on the UFB and "L Stick" to the LS of the UFB

    As for the XBOX home to light up, you'll have to use the secondary board, look for d3, d4, d5, d6 and wire them respectively to the P1, P2, P3, P4 sections on the UFB

    Hmm... What will happen when the switch is on the DP, then? I don't want to lose the D-pad function.

    Thank you, the leds are working! Perfect! :smile: (Had to solder on the VCC, too, though, but still... :smiley: )
  • jonyfrazejonyfraze jonyfraze Joined: Posts: 552
    FYI guys. $80 on Focusattack Evo Sale.
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Custom Arcade Stick Maker of the Year
    custom cases & cabs • design • mods
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  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    sfOmar wrote: »
    mR_CaESaR wrote: »
    You wire the "R stick" to RS on the UFB and "L Stick" to the LS of the UFB

    As for the XBOX home to light up, you'll have to use the secondary board, look for d3, d4, d5, d6 and wire them respectively to the P1, P2, P3, P4 sections on the UFB

    Hmm... What will happen when the switch is on the DP, then? I don't want to lose the D-pad function.

    Thank you, the leds are working! Perfect! :smile: (Had to solder on the VCC, too, though, but still... :smiley: )

    DP is the default position on BOTH the madcatz controller and the Brook UFB.
    Whenever a switch is not shorted to ground, DP is used.
    When R Stick is shorted to gnd on the madcatz, RS is activated. When LS is shorted to ground, LS is activated. It's clearly impossible to activate LS and RS at the same time.
    When the connections are left open, DP is used.

    So when you wire those pins to the UFB, DP will be used if the switch isn't set to another position.
    Just make sure you have a gnd connected from UFB to the SE. Since you said the home button is already working, then that should already be done.

    One thing to remember is that the UFB allows you to switch to LS or RS by input combinations now. So you don't really -need- to wire R stick and L stick to RS and LS. While it would be a bit awkward, you could alternatively wire L stick to "L3" and R stick to R3 for having access to those buttons on SF5. If you're going to use your modded stick on a PS4, make sure you wire up 'Turbo' to 'TPKey" at least.

    You can still hook up RS and LS. I'm just giving another option just in case you need access to more "buttons" :)
  • truendymiontruendymion Beer Me! Joined: Posts: 2,253
    edited July 2016
    Dubon wrote: »
    I just screwed it down with an improvised plastic spacer beneath it. Trick is to screw down one hole the turn it a bit till a second hole lines up with the honeycomb.

    Yeah thats pretty much what I did. I'd love to 3D print a housing that fits into the honeycomb perfectly. Actually I would pay someone to do that for me.
    I'm making a fighting game!
    SRK thread - Discord server.
  • FeiWrongFeiWrong Joined: Posts: 358
    Falkentyne wrote: »
    sfOmar wrote: »
    mR_CaESaR wrote: »
    You wire the "R stick" to RS on the UFB and "L Stick" to the LS of the UFB

    As for the XBOX home to light up, you'll have to use the secondary board, look for d3, d4, d5, d6 and wire them respectively to the P1, P2, P3, P4 sections on the UFB

    Hmm... What will happen when the switch is on the DP, then? I don't want to lose the D-pad function.

    Thank you, the leds are working! Perfect! :smile: (Had to solder on the VCC, too, though, but still... :smiley: )

    DP is the default position on BOTH the madcatz controller and the Brook UFB.
    Whenever a switch is not shorted to ground, DP is used.
    When R Stick is shorted to gnd on the madcatz, RS is activated. When LS is shorted to ground, LS is activated. It's clearly impossible to activate LS and RS at the same time.
    When the connections are left open, DP is used.

    So when you wire those pins to the UFB, DP will be used if the switch isn't set to another position.
    Just make sure you have a gnd connected from UFB to the SE. Since you said the home button is already working, then that should already be done.

    One thing to remember is that the UFB allows you to switch to LS or RS by input combinations now. So you don't really -need- to wire R stick and L stick to RS and LS. While it would be a bit awkward, you could alternatively wire L stick to "L3" and R stick to R3 for having access to those buttons on SF5. If you're going to use your modded stick on a PS4, make sure you wire up 'Turbo' to 'TPKey" at least.

    You can still hook up RS and LS. I'm just giving another option just in case you need access to more "buttons" :)

    Thanks alot!
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,374
    edited July 2016
    jonyfraze wrote: »
    FYI guys. $80 on Focusattack Evo Sale.

    I'd rather spend my money at ArcadeShock though during their MEGA EVO Sale.

    http://arcadeshock.com/collections/frontpage/products/brook-universal-fighting-board-ps3-ps4-xbox-360-xbox-one-pc

    Post edited by Jasen Hicks on
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
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  • Vlad7779311Vlad7779311 Joined: Posts: 374
    edited July 2016
    Hello. I need some advice before I start ordering a Brook UFB. I took a couple of photos of the inside of my Qanba Q4RAF stick.
    vsPReN4.jpg
    jQX6pWB.jpg

    I bought myself a soldering iron & a wire stripper. Will probably be buying:

    *The cheapest available Brook UFB (http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/brook-universal-fighting-board-ps4-ps3-xboxone-xbox360-pc.html)
    *Insulated Daisy Chain Harness for connecting grounds (http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/insulated-daisy-chain-harness-with-32-crimp-connections.html).

    I'm going to be buying a PS4 soon with KOF14 & Anime games. Don't care for SF5, because I have that game already on PC. Will probably need TPKEY. Not sure about L3/R3. Will also like to use Brook UFB for KI at any offline events I might go to. The panel with LEDs, Select, Mode, Turbo, Home & switch has a GND. Do I connect the GND with a Daisy Chain along with the Start & Attack buttons's GNDs?

    I would like to use my LEDs. Not sure what to do with Turbo & Mode LEDs. I never use Turbo and don't know what to do with that. Maybe solder Mode to TPKEY? Should I solder Switch to LS? Is VDD the same thing as VCC?

    Also I know I can buy a Printer USB cable, but I still have a working replacement Q4RAF USB cable that I bought from one French website long time ago. It has 2 black ground wires. What should I do with the 2nd one during soldering?

    I know I probably already asked questions about Brook & Qanba, but just want to be confident I know what I need to get before ordering. Anything else I need to buy for the mod (Cables/wires)? Any tips to a newbie on how to make this mod effective & also tidy inside the stick?
    Playing as:
    UNIEL: Yuzuriha, Gordeau
    BBCPEX: Bullet
    GG Xrd Revelator: I-No
    Koihime Enbu: Kan'u
    Killer Instinct:/ Fulgore
    Nitroplus Blasterz: Ignis
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,823
    ruck86 wrote: »
    Sup. Can anyone please tell me the correct headers i would need to fill up the ufb. I already ordered the 20 pin, but im concerned about the different sizes of the others.

    What else you needed to connect?
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,830
    Hello. I need some advice before I start ordering a Brook UFB. I took a couple of photos of the inside of my Qanba Q4RAF stick.
    vsPReN4.jpg
    jQX6pWB.jpg

    I bought myself a soldering iron & a wire stripper. Will probably be buying:

    *The cheapest available Brook UFB (http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/brook-universal-fighting-board-ps4-ps3-xboxone-xbox360-pc.html)
    *Insulated Daisy Chain Harness for connecting grounds (http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/insulated-daisy-chain-harness-with-32-crimp-connections.html).

    I'm going to be buying a PS4 soon with KOF14 & Anime games. Don't care for SF5, because I have that game already on PC. Will probably need TPKEY. Not sure about L3/R3. Will also like to use Brook UFB for KI at any offline events I might go to. The panel with LEDs, Select, Mode, Turbo, Home & switch has a GND. Do I connect the GND with a Daisy Chain along with the Start & Attack buttons's GNDs?

    I would like to use my LEDs. Not sure what to do with Turbo & Mode LEDs. I never use Turbo and don't know what to do with that. Maybe solder Mode to TPKEY? Should I solder Switch to LS? Is VDD the same thing as VCC?

    Also I know I can buy a Printer USB cable, but I still have a working replacement Q4RAF USB cable that I bought from one French website long time ago. It has 2 black ground wires. What should I do with the 2nd one during soldering?

    I know I probably already asked questions about Brook & Qanba, but just want to be confident I know what I need to get before ordering. Anything else I need to buy for the mod (Cables/wires)? Any tips to a newbie on how to make this mod effective & also tidy inside the stick?

    Connect GND to any GND point, it is common ground along with the brook and the buttons.
    Mode > TP KEY
    Turbo LED > TBLED
    Mode LED > GND (turns on with power)
    Switch > unused or LS. You can use only one direction, or don't use it at all. UFB lets you change stick mode by holding start and left, Up or right for 3 seconds to set LS, DP, RS mode.
    VDD same as VCC. Solder to the VCC point near the LEDs (3.3v as opposed to 5v).
    Solder SGND to any GND point.
    Buy zipties.
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    Need a stick modded? I can dual mod, repair, and customize your stick or Hitbox for PS4/PS3/XB1/360

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  • Vlad7779311Vlad7779311 Joined: Posts: 374
    By SGND you mean the 2nd ground wire from the USB?
    Playing as:
    UNIEL: Yuzuriha, Gordeau
    BBCPEX: Bullet
    GG Xrd Revelator: I-No
    Koihime Enbu: Kan'u
    Killer Instinct:/ Fulgore
    Nitroplus Blasterz: Ignis
  • Gabri3l_WHOAGabri3l_WHOA Heat Extend ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) Joined: Posts: 2,408
    edited July 2016
    Any of you guys swapped out the hori rap 4 pcb for the brook ufb? I'm thinking of swapping out mine, and the wiring for the joystick + buttons looks like it was hot glued in place instead of soldered.
    MochaLatte wrote: »
    Froztey wrote: »
    Sorry guys let me just rephrase that question

    I'm looking for advice from good players

    You're looking in the wrong place then
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,374
    ruck86 wrote: »
    Sup. Can anyone please tell me the correct headers i would need to fill up the ufb. I already ordered the 20 pin, but im concerned about the different sizes of the others.

    I have wiring kits available with the connectors for $10+shipping. Includes everything except wiring for the 20P (includes the 20P connector though). just supply your own wires to attach buttons/lever.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
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  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,374
    Any of you guys swapped out the hori rap 4 pcb for the brook ufb? I'm thinking of swapping out mine, and the wiring for the joystick + buttons looks like it was hot glued in place instead of soldered.

    Hit up ArcadeShock. They have 20P wiring harnesses that plug into the 20P connector on the UFB making stock wiring issues not a big deal. Keep in mind, some RAPs that use the Touchpad, TP Click, comes through that very small FFC cable. So you will need to do a surface mount wire connection on the stock board for that signal, plus route power and ground to the stock board. Move the USB cable over to the Brook J6-1 connection by soldering it in place. The stock board will power up and let you use the TP Click. If you are OK with cutting stock wires you can clip the wires for the aux panels and solder long jumpers to them to get them to the Brook UFB so you don't have to do too much soldering onto the stock (tiny) board.

    The USB cable point RED and BLACK are a good spot to connect VCC and GND respectively, via the through hole points for the JST connector on the stock board.

    Jasen
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
    2014 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick - Retired
    2015 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 2.0 - Hiatus
    2016 SRK Tech Talk New Arcade Stick of the Year Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Order Now!
    2016 SRK Tech Talk Member of the Year Co-Recipient

    Have a question? Use the JASENSCUSTOMS HELP DESK

    - Jasen's Customs Facebook, it's where the pictures are: Facebook
    - Follow me on Twitter to see what new things I am adding: Twitter
    - Learn something? I try to publish all of my creations and tutorials at: The TechBlog
  • FeiWrongFeiWrong Joined: Posts: 358
    edited July 2016
    I updated my ufb yesterday and played for a long time with no problems. Today I get the 8 minute timeout. Why?

    Don't tell me that my ps4 has been updated without me knowing? I can't find anything about it in notifications.
  • FalkentyneFalkentyne Joined: Posts: 576
    Did you verify that it was an 8 minute timeout and not something like a flaky USB cord or something?
    Did you get the 8 minute timeout multiple times all in the exact same method?

    Anyone else getting an 8 minute timeout? Verified?
  • DubonDubon Joined: Posts: 497
    I would start by retrying the update
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