The Official TE2, TE2+, TES+, PANTHERA EZ MOD Thread

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  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,829
    no lag
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  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    Indi wrote: »
    Is there any latency/input delay when using the EZ Mod compared to strictly wiring directly to the UFB? I primarily play Street Fighter 5 on PS4 and PC (144 HZ, 1MS response monitor) so any honest feedback is greatly appreciated.

    I'm hoping to pull the trigger on the EZ Mod TE2+ combo but wanted to hear back on any tests ran. Here is my reference video: TE2+ with UFB

    The EZ MOD is essentially a wiring harness only for the buttons and joystick, it adds NO LATENCY beyond the standard but from the UFB, system you are using it in, and game because it DOES NO PROCESSING on those signals.

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  • IndiIndi Joined: Posts: 2
    Thanks for the speedy reply Vicko and Jasen! I ordered up an EZ Mod and look forward to adding it to my TE2+
  • Dannyctes86Dannyctes86 Joined: Posts: 6
    hello,

    i finally got mine installed and everything. also, i have the lvt3 led board setup but this causes the stick to become unresponsive any idea what could be causing this issue? when i disconnect the buttons and joystick and plug into the ezmod board it works fine.

    Which LVT3 do you have? I think only the PS4 one works properly with the EZ MOD. @armi0024 - can you confirm?

    I have the xbone one.

    thanks for your reply I will look at paradise arcade shop for the ps4 one.
  • DirtyMerkinDirtyMerkin Joined: Posts: 6
    edited August 2016
    Ez mod installed on te2plus

    http://imgur.com/R6CL6ke
  • mangrullonmangrullon Joined: Posts: 7
    did the wire splice to get the LED board working on my KI stick. By any chance could you tell me what kind of wire that is? The three pin wire from the led board to the pcb, I'd like to order/make another cable. I carefully desoldered the original pcb in case one day I want to take out the brook and resell the KI stick since it might be worth something in the future *although my plexi/border aren't in the best condition lol*
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    mangrullon wrote: »
    did the wire splice to get the LED board working on my KI stick. By any chance could you tell me what kind of wire that is? The three pin wire from the led board to the pcb, I'd like to order/make another cable. I carefully desoldered the original pcb in case one day I want to take out the brook and resell the KI stick since it might be worth something in the future *although my plexi/border aren't in the best condition lol*

    24AWG.
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  • LaughingFoxxLaughingFoxx Joined: Posts: 14
    Is there ever going to be an EZ mod for the TES+?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    Is there ever going to be an EZ mod for the TES+?

    Yes. The TE2+ works with a lot of "help" so I just need to rework the form factor to make it easier and determine how many I want to invest in making.
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  • Antonio-o-oAntonio-o-o Joined: Posts: 326
    Is there ever going to be an EZ mod for the TES+?

    I came here to ask the same thing. I'm glad to hear it's in the works.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    The big thing I need to deal with is the USB cable. I did a mod at EVO (that admittedly took WAYY too long to do) using the TE2+ EZ MOD and I found that the USB cable can be a bit finicky when stripped. One of the data lines had a blue film on it which wasn't easy to get rid of so I just swapped USB cables. All in all, not hard to include an additional cable and its very doable.
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  • LaughingFoxxLaughingFoxx Joined: Posts: 14
    Wow that's pretty cool to know! Can't wait to see what it'll look like.
  • VickoVicko Vegas Modder Extraordinaire! Joined: Posts: 2,829
    The big thing I need to deal with is the USB cable. I did a mod at EVO (that admittedly took WAYY too long to do) using the TE2+ EZ MOD and I found that the USB cable can be a bit finicky when stripped. One of the data lines had a blue film on it which wasn't easy to get rid of so I just swapped USB cables. All in all, not hard to include an additional cable and its very doable.

    use a lighter :)
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  • CaptnAmericaCaptnAmerica registered n00b Joined: Posts: 377
    Can anyone help me please? I'm having the same sort of issue as Dannyctes86. I own the TE2+ joystick and LVT3 for TE2+. It was all fine. After I installed brook + EZmod on top of it, it stopped working.

    So I disconnected the LVT3, and the setup works - TE2+ with EZMod+ plus Brook. The EZmod+ and LVT3 works individually however when combined together it had alternating lights and cannot be detected. I've tried it on a PC as XBOX 360 and XBOX one mode, and then a regular PS4.

    Any advice on troubleshooting this thing?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    Can anyone help me please? I'm having the same sort of issue as Dannyctes86. I own the TE2+ joystick and LVT3 for TE2+. It was all fine. After I installed brook + EZmod on top of it, it stopped working.

    So I disconnected the LVT3, and the setup works - TE2+ with EZMod+ plus Brook. The EZmod+ and LVT3 works individually however when combined together it had alternating lights and cannot be detected. I've tried it on a PC as XBOX 360 and XBOX one mode, and then a regular PS4.

    Any advice on troubleshooting this thing?

    Contact PAS. The wiring harness they include has the Ground and Signal pins swapped which is fine on the stock TE2+ board but not on the EZ MOD. You need a specific LVT3 board that has the signal and ground orientations correct for the EZ MOD. If you tell them what's going on (like I said to the above poster) they know exactly which revision of the LVT3 to exchange it for.
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  • CaptnAmericaCaptnAmerica registered n00b Joined: Posts: 377
    Thanks for the quick response Jasen. I've contacted PAS but had a quick question. The wiring you are referring to - can it possibly be this right here? http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/support/solutions/articles/14000026297-te2-and-te2-with-the-lvt3

    Are you possibly saying that the default TE2 wiring works on the stock TE2+ board when used with a LVT3?

    Thanks
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    edited September 2016
    Probably it, yes. The TE2 and TE2+ use the exact same harness for the buttons. Because they have them setup with both wires going to the board (gnd and signal) from each button, it doesn't matter where the GND is connected on the board because its just simply shorting the two together when the button is pressed. Because the LVT3 has an interconnect cable with very specific GND pins and SIGNAL PINS it seems like the button singals are going directly to GND and the GND pins are getting put onto the signal pins causing the issue.


    ** EDIT **

    This is the exact layout of the EZ MOD. Make sure your pins from the LVT3, connected to the EZ MOD, are setup accordingly.

    yKBbKAq.png
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  • CaptnAmericaCaptnAmerica registered n00b Joined: Posts: 377
    I own the EZmod+ version - so the above diagram, shouldn't the gnd pin should be the bottom and the signal pins vise versa?
    Thanks a bunch.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    edited September 2016
    I own the EZmod+ version - so the above diagram, shouldn't the gnd pin should be the bottom and the signal pins vise versa?
    Thanks a bunch.

    No. This is a picture of my board and both the TE2 and TE2+ version use the EXACT same layout.
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  • CaptnAmericaCaptnAmerica registered n00b Joined: Posts: 377
    edited September 2016
    I'm very embarrassed =) that you posted this in the very first post. Okay but you have to give me a break though - I went through the trouble of buying 2 ezmod and then 2 ezmod+ because later I found they are not the same. So I even went through the trouble of getting myself a PS4 LVT3 board on the website and making of drop down choice of TE2+ (I believe this choice will let PAS know which harness to ship out).

    In the PAS support article they said TE2+ had the GND and singals reversed from the original TE2 and you said your wiring is the same for EZMOD and EZMOD+.
    In the end, I had to convert the TE2+ harness into the regular TE2 harness and it worked...

    Well thank you for serving our country and thank you for all your products + wisdom + contribution to the FCG.
  • Dannyctes86Dannyctes86 Joined: Posts: 6
    Will the Kaimana Kameleon LED Driver PCB work with this mod?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    I would recommend using an LVT3 instead. The KK will work, but you will need to mod a USB cable to work with the switching function of the mini-usb on the board.
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  • Dannyctes86Dannyctes86 Joined: Posts: 6
    I would recommend using an LVT3 instead. The KK will work, but you will need to mod a USB cable to work with the switching function of the mini-usb on the board.

    unfortunately the lvt3 for ps4 is out of stock so no luck on that end just seeking alternatives. thanks though!
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    I would recommend using an LVT3 instead. The KK will work, but you will need to mod a USB cable to work with the switching function of the mini-usb on the board.

    unfortunately the lvt3 for ps4 is out of stock so no luck on that end just seeking alternatives. thanks though!

    Then I would go with a Kaimana Mini. Same function, smaller footprint and no need to do anything funky with the USB.
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  • MoosekingMooseking Future Champion of the World. Joined: Posts: 71
    Hows it going folks,

    Couldn't find a guide or any info about this cable on the TE2+ board, but I'm going to assume this is for the touchpad.

    Any assistance here would be appreciated, looked up the guide and how to on youtube but not seeing anything related to this cable specifically and don't want to botch this.

    10QFzvL.jpg

    Thanks for your time.

    Sincerely,
    Mooseking
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    The flat ribbon cable (FFC) is for Touchpad. Watch the VLX version of the EZ MOD install, it talks about it.
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  • hashratehashrate Joined: Posts: 150
    @Jasen Hicks Hey would you happen to have any spare TE2 button wiring harnesses for sale? Looking for an intact harness for the 8 buttons.
  • nbballardnbballard Joined: Posts: 6
    hashrate wrote: »
    @Jasen Hicks Hey would you happen to have any spare TE2 button wiring harnesses for sale? Looking for an intact harness for the 8 buttons.

    Same. I can make my own harness if someone can tell me the specific part name/desk for the 16pin connector.

    Any ideas?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    hashrate wrote: »
    @Jasen Hicks Hey would you happen to have any spare TE2 button wiring harnesses for sale? Looking for an intact harness for the 8 buttons.
    nbballard wrote: »

    Same. I can make my own harness if someone can tell me the specific part name/desk for the 16pin connector.

    Any ideas?


    I don't sell the harnesses, sorry. They are JST RA connectors.
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  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    Positive news today :) I finally have the TES+ EZ MOD all squared away and tested. Not a huge problem really since its a reimagining of the TE2+ EZ MOD (same essential setup inside the stick. Here's the pictures in chronological order of the install:

    I mounted everything to the bottom of the stick using sticky feet standoffs. Lots of metal down here, no desire to short anything out! Used right angle headers on the 20P section of the UFB for clearance purposes. USB cable that comes from MCZ is a pain and since you can't get a replacement in without cutting the end, I created the little adapter board there and used a custom USB cable I created to connect it to the USB B connector on the Brook. I ended up replacing the MCZ cable because the blue coating on the D- wire sucks and is a pain to get off without hot tweezers.

    15940424_2187154601510550_5297786541711995582_n.jpg?oh=9a21070d20ecb18e400e7f1ba96add90&oe=590F8943

    Next, I bolted the base back onto the stick and pulled the wires up. You will notice I completely removed the top to make it easier to work and not damage the cables inside.

    15965799_2187154604843883_604110661049784507_n.jpg?oh=7b565d95aa019a98f248118c0d292f8f&oe=58D6C3D7

    Installed the EZ MOD board in the stock PCB location and connected everything up. Used the stock button board to connect to the 20P custom cable. so no need to rewire those :)

    15965501_2187154628177214_1732654276606630424_n.jpg?oh=819bbaa35c2dd37dc370fcc4a28f6dc9&oe=591E5FC8

    Buttoned up with some Purple Fight Stick Jewelry and tested it on Windows 10. Works great!

    15966059_2187154631510547_2516558710529207949_n.jpg?oh=8cefe27cd1d5aaf14800157fc4b6aa2f&oe=59147224
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  • hyp36rmaxhyp36rmax Joined: Posts: 122
    How soon can we expect the TES+ Ezmod?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    hyp36rmax wrote: »
    How soon can we expect the TES+ Ezmod?

    Mid-Late February. Need to get things manufactured for anything retail ready.
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  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    Hi Jasen,

    I'm planning on installing the TE2+ EZmod but have an issue. My USB connector is broken so I'm looking for advice on what to replace it with. I'm thinking of a USB extender that I cut up. Will this work. I stripped all wires and bundled some of the shielding wire to make it a ground connection. See this image: https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/57018498@N00/31708674133/

    The connector on the left is the standard one that came with the TE2+ and the one on the right is the USB extender I'm planning to use. What do you think?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    That should work fine. It wont be super elegant, but it will do the trick.
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  • BeatrushBeatrush The guy who runs the stream Joined: Posts: 1,315
    edited January 26
    Hello Jasen,
    I got one of the TE2+ ez brook universal board mod packages from arcade shock and the screw terminals on the EZ board are faulty. No matter how tight I screw them, the wires for the USB connection constantly come out.

    I was wondering if I am still able to use the USB port from the brook board to power the setup instead of the screw terminals on the EZ board.

    If not, do you have any suggestions or should I contact arcade shock for a exchange?
    "Mindgames only work on people who actually use their mind" – Airamae
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    Beatrush wrote: »
    Hello Jasen,
    I got one of the TE2+ ez brook universal board mod packages from arcade shock and the screw terminals on the EZ board are faulty. No matter how tight I screw them, the wires for the USB connection constantly come out.

    I was wondering if I am still able to use the USB port from the brook board to power the setup instead of the screw terminals on the EZ board.

    If not, do you have any suggestions or should I contact arcade shock for a exchange?

    I think you are getting the wire in the wrong spot. It happens to me as well. If the little metal sheild isn't fully "up" when the screws are loosened... the wires get above them and they come out.
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  • BeatrushBeatrush The guy who runs the stream Joined: Posts: 1,315
    I think you are getting the wire in the wrong spot. It happens to me as well. If the little metal sheild isn't fully "up" when the screws are loosened... the wires get above them and they come out.

    Hmmm ok I'll try disconnecting everything and unmounting the board and try again.
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  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    Beatrush,

    I just got mine today as well. I noticed that it came with the USB connector screws all the way to the top. You need to loosen it so that the catch would lower. Once the catch is lowered, you can then insert your wires into the catch. Then you tighten it back up. I hope that helps.
  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    edited January 26
    Hi Jasen,

    I got my EZmod w/ Brook UFB today for the TE2+ and have installed it but am running into an issue. The controller auto detects and works fine on the PS3 and PS4 but I can't get it to work on the Wii U, Xbox 360, or Xbox One. When I plug it in, the player indicator LEDs would light up for a brief second, at the same time, the DP LED stays lit. However, it just does not work on those systems. I've upgraded the firmware to 1.8 as well. Note that I am using a Mac. Here are pictures of my install:

    Note: that there's a blinking green LED in addition to the solid green LED.
    31688715904_39f2a2e696_z.jpg
    32379960042_1a33449621_z.jpg
    Note: UFB LED is constantly on.
    32491570186_64c6b04608_z.jpg

    Also not sure what these cables are for, should they be used at all? If so, where?
    31720415373_a4f06863e6_z.jpg
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    Those two extra cables connect between the tow unused connectors on the TE2+ EZ MOD and the Brook UFB. One is for future touchpad support (if they implement) and the other is the DP/RS/LS connector.

    It sounds like the EZ MOD is working fine, but the Brook UFB is not. My board routes signals only and doesn't touch the USB lines whatsoever. That blinking light on the EZ MOD is a "heartbeat" that shows the code is executing in the EZ MOD that handles all of the Player LEDs, etc. Things that need some sort of processing to work with the Brook basically. All inputs like start, home, select, DULR, and the P1-K4, are simply passed right to the Brook. So if its not autodetecting, its an issue I can't fix.

    Try using the USB output on the Brook UFB with a USB cable and see if the situation is the same.
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  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    Those two extra cables connect between the tow unused connectors on the TE2+ EZ MOD and the Brook UFB. One is for future touchpad support (if they implement) and the other is the DP/RS/LS connector.

    It sounds like the EZ MOD is working fine, but the Brook UFB is not. My board routes signals only and doesn't touch the USB lines whatsoever. That blinking light on the EZ MOD is a "heartbeat" that shows the code is executing in the EZ MOD that handles all of the Player LEDs, etc. Things that need some sort of processing to work with the Brook basically. All inputs like start, home, select, DULR, and the P1-K4, are simply passed right to the Brook. So if its not autodetecting, its an issue I can't fix.

    Try using the USB output on the Brook UFB with a USB cable and see if the situation is the same.

    Hi Jasen,

    I tried your suggestion and connected a USB cable straight to the Brook, but it does not make a difference. Still not detecting my XBox and Wii U.

    Btw, the connector for the LS/DP/RS is too thick and doesn't fit the Brook connector. I think I need a slimmer cable, like the one for the USB (J6-1).
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    That connector on the Brook isn't the correct one for the EZ MOD; it's not what I include at least with the kits. That's probably why it doesn't fit. Did you get the board in an EZ MOD kit or did you buy it from somewhere other than ArcadeShock?

    Other than that, I suspect there is something else wrong with the UFB. If it has been updated to the current FW; I'm at a loss as to why it's not working with 360/wii u/One. @GOGO.Zippy - thoughts?
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  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    edited January 26
    That connector on the Brook isn't the correct one for the EZ MOD; it's not what I include at least with the kits. That's probably why it doesn't fit. Did you get the board in an EZ MOD kit or did you buy it from somewhere other than ArcadeShock?
    Got it as a kit from ArcadeShock: https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-te2-plus-version-w-brook-ufb-soldered-headers-package. Where can I get a slimmer cable connector, like the one you include for the USB/J6-1 connection? Would Fry's have something like that? I think that will fit the presoldered LS/DP/RS connector on the Brook.

    Other than that, I suspect there is something else wrong with the UFB. If it has been updated to the current FW; I'm at a loss as to why it's not working with 360/wii u/One. @GOGO.Zippy - thoughts?

    Yeah. I updated to the latest firmware via my Mac. Basically:
    1) I downloaded the firmware (1.8),
    2) opened it,
    3) pressed PS and Share button while plugging in the controller (as instructed by firmware installation instructions)
    4) updated firmware
    5) clicked on "done"/"complete" button after the firmware updated
    6) unplugged the controller

    Tried it across my systems and it only works on the playstations.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    ShinBetlog wrote: »
    Got it as a kit from ArcadeShock: https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-te2-plus-version-w-brook-ufb-soldered-headers-package. Where can I get a slimmer cable connector, like the one you include for the USB/J6-1 connection? Would Fry's have something like that? I think that will fit the presoldered LS/DP/RS connector on the Brook.

    Typically yes, though you just need something from Harwin via digikey thats 1x4 .100" connectors.

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  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    One thing to try... the legs on the connector should face UP for the Stick Selector switch. Are the pins bent down a bit? It might just take a little manual manipulation to make it fit since Molex does make a "naked" version of the KK connector as well that mates with the cables included.
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  • ken123103ken123103 You're just mad because your angry Joined: Posts: 597
    Hey Jasen,

    It seems like this link to the EZ mod for TE2+ with connectors (https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-te2-plus-version-mad-catz) has gone dead. Does this mean no restock soon? :-(
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  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    Probably means they sold out of premade kits.
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  • Liamcraig320Liamcraig320 Joined: Posts: 8
    I just bought a TE2+ and the buttons are squashy and way too sensitive. And the joystick is not stiff at all, feels like it is all over the place. Not what I expected for paying 220$. I have two questions. The first is are the Sanwa 30mm you buy online any better?and if not what brand is better.
    The second questions is if I'm going to spend another 60-80$ modding the TE2+, should I just buy the qwanba dragon? Is it just as good or better?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,307
    I just bought a TE2+ and the buttons are squashy and way too sensitive. And the joystick is not stiff at all, feels like it is all over the place. Not what I expected for paying 220$. I have two questions. The first is are the Sanwa 30mm you buy online any better?and if not what brand is better.
    The second questions is if I'm going to spend another 60-80$ modding the TE2+, should I just buy the qwanba dragon? Is it just as good or better?

    Sanwa buttons are sanwa buttons, no difference in any stick you get them in. The Dragon uses the exact same, just a different color. The lever is the same deal as well. Sanwa JLF in both cases. If you are going to want to make it stiffer, get a new heavier spring.

    Also, this is off topic. This is the TE2/TE2+/TES+ EZ MOD thread which has nothing to do with the buttons and levers installed in these sticks.
    2014 SRK Tech Talk Company of the Year Jasen's Custom Creations - Custom Joysticks, SuperGuns, Vinyl Graphics
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  • Liamcraig320Liamcraig320 Joined: Posts: 8
    Sorry, I'm new to this,, just need to know how to get stiff responsive buttons.
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