Spark/SparkCE Optical Joystick Sensor for JLF

11920212224

Comments

  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
    The diode isn't too specific, but the cheap N4148 signal diodes are still carried by radio shack and should work fine.
  • TactiksTactiks Spoon Joined: Posts: 708
    I bought the SparckCE on 7/19. I have been messing with the adjustment to fine tune the optics but it doesn't ever change. I have tried 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full turns and nothing seems to work. I would like to return this for a refund if I could.

    PayPal Transaction ID: [SIZE=12px]16X05334JY676454X[/SIZE]

    Could you please let me know the steps I need to take to get a refund for this? I can't find anything about returns on your site. I have the board packaged and ready to go.

    Thanks.

    BTW this is a nice board. I do recommend this to anyone looking for an alternative to the standard cherry switches. It just doesn't work for me and I am a one try kind of guy.
    ReSe Tournaments / Facebook Group
    Upcoming ReSe: Jan 19th, Feb 9th, March 16th
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
    If you'd like to return it and its good condition, no problem.
    But I should point out that the potentiometer has a 25 full-turns range on it. Grab a multimeter, test the resistance on the two outer prongs of the power connector on the Spark, and turn it to the baselines which should be ~58 ohms. Then adjust it to your liking one full rotation at a time, knowing that each full turn is around 4% of the total range you have available. Still dont like it after that, send it back and I'll refund the paypal for the part.

    Marcus Post
    1505 Wilcomb St.
    Boise, ID 83705
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,444 ✭✭✭✭
    I bought the SparckCE on 7/19. I have been messing with the adjustment to fine tune the optics but it doesn't ever change. I have tried 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full turns and nothing seems to work.


    It can take many rotations before you start noticing a difference. Fine tuning by making 1/4 turns etc. is only useful if you want to adjust it to a specific number using a multimeter.
  • TactiksTactiks Spoon Joined: Posts: 708
    If you'd like to return it and its good condition, no problem.
    But I should point out that the potentiometer has a 25 full-turns range on it. Grab a multimeter, test the resistance on the two outer prongs of the power connector on the Spark, and turn it to the baselines which should be ~58 ohms. Then adjust it to your liking one full rotation at a time, knowing that each full turn is around 4% of the total range you have available. Still dont like it after that, send it back and I'll refund the paypal for the part.

    Marcus Post
    1505 Wilcomb St.
    Boise, ID 83705

    Thanks a lot Toodles.
    ReSe Tournaments / Facebook Group
    Upcoming ReSe: Jan 19th, Feb 9th, March 16th
  • Kuya_JoeKuya_Joe AKA BlindWithOneArm Joined: Posts: 2,813 ✭✭
    No kidding? I didn't know about that.
    Chalked it off as a freak thing since it was a first... was so busy I forgot about it... the guy took the regular one and placed it in his girl's TE and it worked... dunno...
    But it wasn't good enough right? Because it wasn't cleared by you lol...
    -YESMASTER...
    "She doesn't need a mouth to tell me how cute she is. "
    JDM714 epic...
  • TactiksTactiks Spoon Joined: Posts: 708
    If you'd like to return it and its good condition, no problem.
    But I should point out that the potentiometer has a 25 full-turns range on it. Grab a multimeter, test the resistance on the two outer prongs of the power connector on the Spark, and turn it to the baselines which should be ~58 ohms. Then adjust it to your liking one full rotation at a time, knowing that each full turn is around 4% of the total range you have available. Still dont like it after that, send it back and I'll refund the paypal for the part.

    Marcus Post
    1505 Wilcomb St.
    Boise, ID 83705

    I mailed it today. I forgot to get the invoice number and put it in there but it will have my name and address I used to purchase it so you will be able to look it up by that. It should be there by Thursday.
    Thanks again Toodles.
    ReSe Tournaments / Facebook Group
    Upcoming ReSe: Jan 19th, Feb 9th, March 16th
  • NightmareNightmare Joined: Posts: 71
    Im losing my down/left and I've tested 45-55. I like those ranges. Everything else is fine. Do you have a diagram of the specific LEDs I should look for? All of them are straight. Some look like they are leaning to the right or left but I straighted them out I think..
  • orcitectorcitect Joined: Posts: 132
    Just thought I'd drop a message here to see if anyone's come up with a solderless solution for installing a Spark into a Q4RAF?
    I was thinking that maybe small scotch locks on the 5v wire from the usb could work? Though I'm not sure the smallest size scotchlocks go to.. seems to be for 1.5mm wires. (BY scotch locks I mean these : http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/386/quickspliceallsinglebj7.gif/) Has anyone tried this sort of method?
    Cheers.
    [ PSN - Goukitech ]
    [ AE - Akuma ] [ BB - Ragna ] [ SFxT - Akuma & Kazuya ]
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
    Im losing my down/left and I've tested 45-55. I like those ranges. Everything else is fine. Do you have a diagram of the specific LEDs I should look for? All of them are straight. Some look like they are leaning to the right or left but I straighted them out I think..
    No diagrams because it's hard enough making a diagram that covers the pins in all four positions; doing the same for the LEDs would suck.
    But you can find the LEDs responsible for a direction easy enough. Just remember that the LEDs responsible for a direction activating are the ones that get exposed to each other in that direction. When you move the stick, the actuator moves OUT of the way so the detector can see the LED. When that happens, active direction. But in general, as long as all of the LEDs look perfectly perpindicular to the board by eyeball, you should be just fine.

    I should also point out that the actuator plays a big role. If it's a well used JLF that had microswitches before, the actuator may be affecting things. You may want to take it out and wipe it down if its had a hard life.
    (Note to self, stock actuators)
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    I just wanted to throw an idea, in order to sell this for arcade application purposes, ¿is there any way to get around the main obstacle which is the fact that it stays in function as long as it is powered on? something like a circuit or whatever which can turn it's power (only the SparkCE's power off) after a certain amount of time without any inputs marked, it's kinda ideal but maybe it's doable. Maybe add an additional button in the cabinet to power it back on again or make it automatic after a directioanl input on the stick.
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
    I just wanted to throw an idea, in order to sell this for arcade application purposes, ¿is there any way to get around the main obstacle which is the fact that it stays in function as long as it is powered on? something like a circuit or whatever which can turn it's power (only the SparkCE's power off) after a certain amount of time without any inputs marked, it's kinda ideal but maybe it's doable. Maybe add an additional button in the cabinet to power it back on again or make it automatic after a directioanl input on the stick.
    If it's not running, how would it see an input to know to wake up? Something like that could be made, but it can't be built into the Spark itself.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    ¿And using a separate mechanism that is always powered on?. You could sell it separately and sell SparkCEs for arcade implementation, I know personally many people that would buy them.
  • obsidianchaoobsidianchao Owns No Purses (Purse Owner) Joined: Posts: 244
    This is a really, really stupid question, but I just bought a Spark of a guy, has anyone made an installation video or diagrams or something for a Madcatz TE? I only ask because I'm relatively new to modding.
    GT: RestoChesto

    Apologies for typos, most posts are made from my phone.
  • vashvash Joined: Posts: 361
    Something odd recently with my flash: it's jumping too much. Specifically in the upper right hand side. Playing as Akuma, I noticed I was doing a lot more demon flips than before and removing the Spark flash seemed to fix the issue. Maybe my play style always did this, but the non-flash version hid it?
  • rtdzignrtdzign Joined: Posts: 5,134
    I just wanted to throw an idea, in order to sell this for arcade application purposes, ¿is there any way to get around the main obstacle which is the fact that it stays in function as long as it is powered on? something like a circuit or whatever which can turn it's power (only the SparkCE's power off) after a certain amount of time without any inputs marked, it's kinda ideal but maybe it's doable. Maybe add an additional button in the cabinet to power it back on again or make it automatic after a directioanl input on the stick.
    Like installing a switch on the bottom of the cabinet under the panel?
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    Maybe.

    Lil question, I'll receive my SparkCEs this next week, I made all my buttons and stick common ground, and use only one GND on the McCthulhu, ¿is there any problem with:

    1. Leaving the end of the cable that went to my normal Sanwa before, unconnected, hanging in the air?.
    2. ¿Using a second GND (the one next to the directions) on the McCthulhu?
    3. I read VCC and GND shouldn't touch each other, ¿would connecting the Sanwa to a second GND put it at a danger or something?.
  • jdm714jdm714 Blue Blue Glass Moon Joined: Posts: 12,754 ✭✭
    This is a really, really stupid question, but I just bought a Spark of a guy, has anyone made an installation video or diagrams or something for a Madcatz TE? I only ask because I'm relatively new to modding.

    Nerrage, SRK Member.
    Search his YouTube.
    J&J SoCal Modding: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/113434/
    Visit J&J SoCal Modding's Blog for review of new Arcade Parts: http://jjsocalmodding.blogspot.com
  • obsidianchaoobsidianchao Owns No Purses (Purse Owner) Joined: Posts: 244
    Decided to install it without direction, didn't realize how easy that was. Damn, love it. Would a shortened shaft fuck the sensors up like a larger actuator does?
    GT: RestoChesto

    Apologies for typos, most posts are made from my phone.
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
    Maybe.

    Lil question, I'll receive my SparkCEs this next week, I made all my buttons and stick common ground, and use only one GND on the McCthulhu, ¿is there any problem with:

    1. Leaving the end of the cable that went to my normal Sanwa before, unconnected, hanging in the air?.
    2. ¿Using a second GND (the one next to the directions) on the McCthulhu?
    3. I read VCC and GND shouldn't touch each other, ¿would connecting the Sanwa to a second GND put it at a danger or something?.
    I think you're making this harder than it needs to be. If you have a working 5 pin JLF connector, the installation is 90% done. You use that same connector on the Spark/SparkCE. Take the wire that comes with the Spark, connect one end to the VCC screw terminal on the Cthulhu, and plug the other end into the other connector on Spark, then get beer. That's it.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    I don't, that's why I'm asking, my sanwas didn't come with the harness (bought from Lizard Lick, yeah, thieves). I have five individual cables tied up, 4 going to the McChuthlu and 1 which is connected to the common ground cable, in order to use the harness I have to disconnect that one and leave it hanging, and connect the harness' ground either to the common ground or to the board. My question is, ¿is there any problem with using a second ground slot in the McCthulhu with the SparckCE?. That's it.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    Bump, could anyone answer this, need to leave early in the morning tomorrow to pick the stuff up at Fedex.
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
    I have no idea what you're trying to describe as your current setup. You need a 5 pin JLF style harness, and the power wire that comes with it. It doesn't matter where you connect the ground wire of the five pin, as long as it's connected to ground.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    Lol, I just got the harnesses, alright, I'll say it once more: I just got the harness, didn't had it, so my stick's ground cable was connected to a common ground cable that went through all buttons and ended up connected to one GND slot on the McCthulhu. Now that I have the harness, I have to connect it's ground cable either to a second GND slot on the McCthulhu /(the one next to the directions I suppose) or the common ground cable I have for all buttons. My question is, ¿would using a second GND slot cause any issue?. I read something about being careful of the VCC touching any GND, which would cause my PS3 or PC to blow up, heh.
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
    Ground is ground is ground. If that common ground chain you describe is connected to one of the ground screw terminals, then it's connected to all of the ground screw terminals. Connect it whereever it's easiest.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    Ok and if I want to connect the stick 5 pin harness' ground cable to a second GND screw terminal, independently of the common ground one ¿can I do it, no worries with the VCC thing or anything right?.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    Another lil question, I have my old Sanwa with solded wire connected to the common ground cable, if I disconnect the other 4 cables from the McCthulhu but leave it sitting there still soldered to the common ground, and want to connect the SparkCE to a second GND screw terminal, ¿is there any risk?. ¿Is the old pcb still functioning and does that cause problems?. Maybe you guys never thought someone could do that. I can't unsolder it cuz I lended my solder pistol to a friend and was wondering if I can connect the SparkCE like this.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    ¿Should I just go wild and cut the piece of common ground cable going to the original sanwa pcb with a knife and just install the SparkCE using a second GND screw terminal?. Techno-baby in need of a yes or a no.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
  • johnhandyjohnhandy Joined: Posts: 161
    You should read the Spark welcome sheet. It talks about where to plug in the 5V power cable, and the 5-pin harness when installing to a Cthulhu board. If you're still confused, you might as well pay a local modder to install it.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    Nvm it's solved, just cut the common ground portion going to the old pcb and connected the harness' ground to a second GND terminal, works no problem.

    I tried varied setups with LS-33 and LS-55 springs, making combinations of them and the stock sanwa spring, the only thing I didn't try was stretching the LS-33 spring which gives lighter tension compared to the sanwa's, I might try that in the future. But for maximum performance and sensitivity, I'd say for professionals, my recommendation is that you just leave it as it is, no spring modification, and put the SparkCE at 39omh, my moves come out precisely, and like butter, I feel like my hand and the stick do everything I tell them to when I want them to, and the only thing I have to put some focus on is timing, and I'm not getting any unwanted inputs, it's a completely dreamed feeling, better than anything I've tried, including my custom sanwa mods and stuff, that made the deadzone smaller and micros more responsive, this is far better, thanks Toodles for producing it, I'm an absolutely satisfied client. Except for customer service here a lil bit :p.
  • johnhandyjohnhandy Joined: Posts: 161
    Toodles,
    I've got an original Spark installed in a FightPad, Imp2, MCC combo that's acting flaky when trying to trigger down (Spark is oriented with pins pointing to the right when looking underneath). Down and diagonals are often missed during :hcf: or :hcb:. I've rotated the Spark and the gate just as a test but it seems to follow the PCB. I don't have any issues in this same setup with a Spark CE. As a quick test, I took the gate off and down will trigger. I've peeked at the LEDs and none of them appear crooked. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

    Edit: Using stock actuator and JLF square gate.
  • mfwebdudemfwebdude Joined: Posts: 4
    Toodles, just wanted to say thanks. You've put a lot of time and effort into making this possible. I've recently become interested in building my own fight stick, and a silent jlf is an absolute must (unless i want the wrath of a sleep deprived wife upon me). good stuff man, this was the first part i purchased, along with the MC Cthulhu.
  • DARTHLORD_SVDARTHLORD_SV Joined: Posts: 8
    Toodles, offer international sales service? cuz im living out of USA
  • JayduckyJayducky Stupid Questions---> Joined: Posts: 668 ✭✭
    VCC pretty much means a power line. On the outgoing USB cable, its the one that's red. There's one on the 5 pin ribbon from VLX Kitty to VLX black box, but I couldn't tell you which one it is from memory. So, if you're not using an RJ-45 jack, shove it in the pin for the red USB wire. If you are, then let me know and I'll get a photo showing where to shove it. (wow that sounds bad. you know what I mean.)
    Hi Toodles,
    Uh, I guess I need to know where to shove it because I am using an RJ45 jack in my VLX kitty setup. Could you show me a picture of where I need to insert the power line on my spark? Thanks!
    Step 1: Put a hole in the box.
  • OuroborusOuroborus plays 3s just to troll Joined: Posts: 6,936 ✭✭✭✭
    hey toodles, i bought a few sparks a year ago before the CE comes out.

    One of them is still unused and I was wondering can I exchange the unused one for the CE?

    The only reason being that one of my sticks is modded with the mccthulhu and if i use the original spark, it won't work for ps2 mode.
    ssf4ae tier list regarding Gen:

    D Proto: and where is Gen?
    oORYUOo: you cannot tier what you cannot see
  • RedforthRedforth Joined: Posts: 17
    I wanted to say thank you to Toodles, I just installed the spark into my HRAP v3 and it's turned the JLF into pure butter. Installation and adjusting the switches was super easy, and I haven't even soldered anything before this. Thanks again!
  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
    Toodles,
    I've got an original Spark installed in a FightPad, Imp2, MCC combo that's acting flaky when trying to trigger down (Spark is oriented with pins pointing to the right when looking underneath). Down and diagonals are often missed during :hcf: or :hcb:. I've rotated the Spark and the gate just as a test but it seems to follow the PCB. I don't have any issues in this same setup with a Spark CE. As a quick test, I took the gate off and down will trigger. I've peeked at the LEDs and none of them appear crooked. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

    Edit: Using stock actuator and JLF square gate.
    If none appear crooked (leaning forward, back OR the sides. It should be perfectly perpindicular to the PCB in all regards. Remember, the ones responsible for a direction are the ones that get exposed by the movement of the stick, not the ones blocked by the movement of the stick) and still has a wonky direction, then I need to get you swapped out. I'll send a PM with an address to mail it back to and I'll get you replaced.
    Toodles, offer international sales service? cuz im living out of USA
    Yes, just select your country once it's added to your shopping cart and it'll calculate shipping for you.
    Hi Toodles,
    Uh, I guess I need to know where to shove it because I am using an RJ45 jack in my VLX kitty setup. Could you show me a picture of where I need to insert the power line on my spark? Thanks!
    In the corner next to the large '1.6' is a row of six through holes. The one closest to the edge has a white silkscreen line through it. Not that one, but the one next to it; the one second from the board edge. That's the best spot to connect the power.
    hey toodles, i bought a few sparks a year ago before the CE comes out.

    One of them is still unused and I was wondering can I exchange the unused one for the CE?

    The only reason being that one of my sticks is modded with the mccthulhu and if i use the original spark, it won't work for ps2 mode.
    Im sorry man but I can't do that.
    I wanted to say thank you to Toodles, I just installed the spark into my HRAP v3 and it's turned the JLF into pure butter. Installation and adjusting the switches was super easy, and I haven't even soldered anything before this. Thanks again!
    Enjoy!
  • JayduckyJayducky Stupid Questions---> Joined: Posts: 668 ✭✭
    In the corner next to the large '1.6' is a row of six through holes. The one closest to the edge has a white silkscreen line through it. Not that one, but the one next to it; the one second from the board edge. That's the best spot to connect the power.
    Placed an order for another Spark CE! Getting new gear is always exciting... Thanks for all your help Toodles. These are perfect with a custom spring from Paradise Arcade.
    Step 1: Put a hole in the box.
  • SirForhieSirForhie Joined: Posts: 25
    TOODLES. it's fucken heaven. i love this. just got it today took 2 min to put in hopped on ssf4 and .... i'll be picking up 2 more for my fighting edge and te. thanks alot man you solved my silent stick problem. :)
  • marhul403marhul403 Joined: Posts: 61
    ordered 2 of the regular ones and got them a few days ago (14 days to get to sweden ) was super easy to install in my custom stick and so far its been performing really well thanks !
  • SirForhieSirForhie Joined: Posts: 25
    Help. somethings wrong with my spark don't really know just stopped working the last thing i did to the stick was install the remora and arc3's. i check to see if the spark board was still getting power by using my camera phone looking at the ir. aren't they all suppose to be on i only got the 4 closest to the center on. even those are kinda dim. any ideas anybody?
  • SirForhieSirForhie Joined: Posts: 25
    oh yeah it still worked after i did the led install which was about couple days ago.
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    Hello Toodles, I'm very satisfied with how the SparkCEs keep performing to this day and since I know a bunch of arcade operators in my city I'll recommend it to them (one will probably want to buy 8 in the future, some others might buy even many more). Just wanted to know ¿how can we go about implementing the "switch power off" button or automatic thing (after a given period of time of buttons or stick not having been touched) for the sticks when not in use to prevent unnecessary wearing out of the PCB which I spoke about before?. It should work directly I'm guessing with the McChutlhu ¿right?. ¿Or would it be easier to implement for the SparkCE only?. ¿What could be the method or mechanism to make it possible?. ¡Thanks!.
  • TortaTorta A piece of Cake Joined: Posts: 566
    Toodles! how much is SparkCE And does it work well with 3.3v? (MCCthulhu psx/ps2? :D)
    VAMOS
    MCCthulhu >> all

    KOFXIII: Ash/King/Vice
  • phaedrusphaedrus Joined: Posts: 791 ✭✭
    RTM!!

    SparkCE features:
    1. ADJUSTABLE SENSITIVITY! There is a potentiometer next to the three pin connector; use a small screw driver to turn the knob and you can make the SparkCE more or less sensitive. The pot has 25 turns, for a VERY exact setting. This is a first that no other stick (with possible exception of Suzo Inductive) has accomplished!
    2. Perfect support on ALL voltages from 2.5v to up to 12v. That means the sensitivity will remain the SAME, no matter if your stick is running on PSX/PS2 voltages or USB voltages. Another SparkCE first!
    3. SparkCE does NOT hold the signal lines high. What this means is that, electronically, the SparkCE behaves EXACTLY like a microswitch board. There are no more compatability problems with BrawlStick pcbs, PS360, or anything that didn't care for the signal lines to be held high.
    7 button is trap.
  • phaedrusphaedrus Joined: Posts: 791 ✭✭
    edited February 2013
    So i am having a weird issue when connecting my stick to a 360. Either it works but up and down do a repeat thing. When playing street fighter i get it to constantly crouch and stand or when jumping constantly. I unplug and connect and it than pushes the stick to player 2. Forcing xbox mode than gets me both 1p and 2p lights on and it works. Also the turbo lights appear on for the top punch buttons and the last 2 kick.
    TE MVC2 stick
    TE Kitty
    Li-power converter
    When i put in a jlf it works fine.
    Gonna remove the converter to see any difference.
    Any ideas?
    UPDATE: So i removed the converter and issue is resolved. Will get another one whenever. Still have PS2 sticks in case i wanna get some games in.
    Worked out in the end.
    Post edited by phaedrus on
    7 button is trap.
  • MotoyukiMotoyuki Joined: Posts: 256
    Anyone have problems with the original spark (not the spark ce)? Planning on buying one but not sure if it works just as well as a normal sanwa jlf. Looking to get one so that I dont have to replace my jlf for a while (im assuming the spark lasts longer than the normal sanwa jlf board with microswitches)
  • pablofsipablofsi Joined: Posts: 124
    I was wondering, what would be the expected life span of a SparkCE that is connected say 12 hours per day?.
  • Josiah AguilarJosiah Aguilar Joined: Posts: 2
    I bought a spark optical on godlikecontrols but it didn't come with a wire.....
Sign In or Register to comment.