Wireless UPCB

bencao74bencao74 http://www.ArcadeForge.deJoined: Posts: 904
Hi,

times ago I started a project that sould meet the following requirements:

- cablefree and support for nearly all usual console.

I've think I made it.

First I developed the wireless module. This project was annouced in this thread.

Now I've concentrated on the support for all consoles. With the help of toodles and his great piece of hardware called UPCB this part is done.

Now I've finished the interface between them. I've connected the both PCBs via DB 15 plugs.

Here're some pics

3233166245_1dfefb7b9d.jpg

You see here the assembled UPCB with the receiver of the wireless application. On the console side is a psx cable.

3234013604_964f3a6ddd.jpg

Here the whole parts are connected to my PS2.

3234013044_eec389f783.jpg

Yeahhh, Metal Slug :) The joystick has built-in the sender. In front of the lcd lies the receiver connected to the UPCB.

3086905785_fe9dd12191.jpg

Here's a pic from the sender.

And yes, it works great.

No I've to soldier the missing console cable and piggyback the DC and xbox360 controller. :)
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Comments

  • TheRealNeoGeoTheRealNeoGeo Arcadeparts Joined: Posts: 3,150 ✭✭✭
    Thats strait up crazy! I love it!
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  • pixeldotzpixeldotz Joined: Posts: 231
    that's an awesome idea and build.

    have you tested any sort of lag or timing?
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  • TwinnissTwinniss Joined: Posts: 764
    aaaaaaawwwww DAMN

    nice job!



    Its great that Toodles made his thing open source so that other people can do something like this :D
    A single Pot buster does 45% damage on Chipp with full life.

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  • bencao74bencao74 http://www.ArcadeForge.de Joined: Posts: 904
    thanks a lot :)
    have you tested any sort of lag or timing?

    Worst case lag is 8ms (125 samples / second) if really all 8ms or faster an event is executed. If there is no event executed nothing has to be send. Therefore sample rate rises to 70 s (> 14 KHz). This means if last event is was >8ms before then lag is 70 s.

    Subjective gamefeeling is important, too. So far nobody recognizes a bad gamefeelig or delay. So this seems okay.
    Arcade Building Blog, lots of Tutorial, Pics, Vidz
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  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
  • SystemSystem Joined: Posts: 20,835 admin
    Wow, neat. What kind of hardware did you use? (I'm an embedded systems geek myself.)
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  • bencao74bencao74 http://www.ArcadeForge.de Joined: Posts: 904
    Hi all,

    this device works with an ATMega8 and a ready assembled RF Module which is sending on ISM band 433 Mhz. The protocoll is redundant. My colleguage and I used SMD 0605 to be as small as possible.
    Arcade Building Blog, lots of Tutorial, Pics, Vidz
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  • Kaytrim's KustomsKaytrim's Kustoms Kustom Stick Builder Joined: Posts: 1,202
    Would it be possible to add this to the Cthulhu board that Toodles created? Theoretically I see it as a possibility but not knowing the way this communicates to the UPCB I can't be sure.

    Thanks,
    Michael
    Visit my site to see what I have for sale: http://www.kaytrimskustoms.com
    Visit my blog for updates: http://kaytrimskustoms.wordpress.com/

    < AV by GuMz
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  • ToodlesToodles da Fetus of Gawd! Joined: Posts: 10,777
    Would it be possible to add this to the Cthulhu board that Toodles created? Theoretically I see it as a possibility but not knowing the way this communicates to the UPCB I can't be sure.

    Thanks,
    Michael

    Yup, it would work fine. But if you can handle the tech to add a transmitter to a stick and a receiver to the pcb, then you might as well go UPCB and get all the extra features.
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  • bencao74bencao74 http://www.ArcadeForge.de Joined: Posts: 904
    Hi Kaytrim, Hi Toodles,

    this would be a nice idea, too! The radio unit is modular and needs 5V. Of course there are several connectors possible and even soldierfree ones like used in Cthulhu.

    The challenge is now to provide the 5V to the sender. In my approach the step up converter is integreated in the sender pcb. Due to this only 2 batteries are needed. However this could be moduralized, too:

    Mintyboost or Toodles Proposal do the same job.

    Has anybody ideas for a switch to turn off and on the sender? I've been thinking of using the "start" and "back" button. If both are pressed three seconds device is turned and vice versa.
    Arcade Building Blog, lots of Tutorial, Pics, Vidz
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  • SystemSystem Joined: Posts: 20,835 admin
    I really like your project, great work : )

    For switching the sender on and off I would suggest a small micro, for instance a pic12f629 would work just fine and costs like 70 cents. Combine that with a cheap transistor and you can have a low sleep current smart switch on your power supply.

    Just run 2 buttons into I/O ports, do a quick nand gate to mux all the buttons to another pin, and one I/O port out to a transistor. Each pin on a 629 has interrupt on change properties, so we can just put the part to sleep, and tell it to wake up on button press, at which point it checks if the buttons are held down long enough and outputs a high to your transistor to supply power to your sender. The pic can also handle automatic shutoff, just give it a long counter (5 mins or so?) that resets whenever a button press is received (on your muxed button pin) and if the counter fills up execute a sleep command. The implementation would require in total: 1 .1 uf cap, 1 pic12f629, 1 transistor, and 1 nand gate ic.

    If you think that would work for you I could implement it and make the code and schematic available to you.

    EDIT: I just realized i necro'd this thread pretty hard, but if its still in progress i guess no harm done? : P
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  • Luís SPLuís SP Once taught a man just to watch him learn... Joined: Posts: 13
    Bencao, the link to the wireless module is down. Could you explain how it works, please?
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  • bencao74bencao74 http://www.ArcadeForge.de Joined: Posts: 904
    Hey,

    this thread was burried deeep, my friend :) how did you find it? Nice Search ;)


    http://bencao74.blogspot.com/search/label/Pad%20Box

    here`s some stuff in my blog

    and here`s some information on this thread

    It was one of my first professional PCB and quite fun. I wanted to sell this stuff but then got aware about all this wireless certification stuff.

    anyway, it`s rfm-12 module from hopper combined with a atmel mcu atmega8, one for the transmitter and one for the receiver. The receiver forwards then the stuff to the upcb.

    The transmitter has "some kind" of sophisticated power supply and recharge circuit. There was only very few pcb made and I never got motivated to improve this project.

    But the UPCB is great anyway. I still like it very much and setup a little batch some days ago.
    Arcade Building Blog, lots of Tutorial, Pics, Vidz
    http://www.zurborg.info
    http://www.arcadeforge.de
    ·
  • Luís SPLuís SP Once taught a man just to watch him learn... Joined: Posts: 13
    Hey,

    this thread was burried deeep, my friend :) how did you find it? Nice Search ;)
    http://bencao74.blogspot.com/search/label/Pad Box

    here`s some stuff in my blog

    and here`s some information on this thread

    It was one of my first professional PCB and quite fun. I wanted to sell this stuff but then got aware about all this wireless certification stuff.

    anyway, it`s rfm-12 module from hopper combined with a atmel mcu atmega8, one for the transmitter and one for the receiver. The receiver forwards then the stuff to the upcb.

    The transmitter has "some kind" of sophisticated power supply and recharge circuit. There was only very few pcb made and I never got motivated to improve this project.

    But the UPCB is great anyway. I still like it very much and setup a little batch some days ago.

    A fellow forumite suggested I look into your work regarding using a wireless unit as opposed to sacrificing a 360 controller and I did some legwork from there :)

    So, I basically need 2 of each (rfm-12 and atmel mcu atmega8) one for the arcade stick box and one for the box that connects to the console. I'm sorry but English isn't my native language (I'm Portuguese and even tough I teach the language) and electronics are a bit out of my area of expertise.

    How do these interface with each other? Do I need to do any programing, flash them or do they just work after you solder everything up?

    I was thinking of using an I-Pac or a Cthulhu, would that be a problem?

    Thanks for replying!
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  • bencao74bencao74 http://www.ArcadeForge.de Joined: Posts: 904
    it`s not such easy. You need my complete so called RFORCE project, but I don't have some ready for sale. Basically it`s possible with all kind of controller boards. This is absolute advanced mod, I don't recommend this stuff for starters...
    Arcade Building Blog, lots of Tutorial, Pics, Vidz
    http://www.zurborg.info
    http://www.arcadeforge.de
    ·
  • Luís SPLuís SP Once taught a man just to watch him learn... Joined: Posts: 13
    it`s not such easy. You need my complete so called RFORCE project, but I don't have some ready for sale. Basically it`s possible with all kind of controller boards. This is absolute advanced mod, I don't recommend this stuff for starters...
    Well, I'll just build the couple I have on wait without the wireless section and when you get the kit I'll buy it from you if the owners feel the price is right.

    I'm really just trying not to destroy an xbox controller as it's a lot of waste IMHO but if they really want it and want it now... well, the customer is always right.

    Thanks.
    ·
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