But why would you need to? Your stick isn't going to gain a guide button and no longer need it without digging out some tools, it seems like the only practical use for that would be if your guide button broke and you weren't able to repair it immediately.
I don't know, i was just trying to explain why the other guy would have wanted it.
Questions
1. what are the predicted dimensions?
2. will it use the same usb b female connector?
3. what can I do to help???
Super stoked on this one cant wait to get my hands on it!
1. The boards that were ordered a week ago are exactly like the last picture I posted. The big rectangle is 25mmx42mm. The little stick out part is 8.5mmx10mm. Maximum width and maximum height is 33.5mmx42mm
2. As the Cthulhu? Yes, it can use a standard USB 'B' jack, but I expect most folks with solder the cable straight to it, especially in the MadCatz sticks.
3. Ummm...Documentation. Pictures, instructions, etc on how to use it and how to use the Cthulhu in dual PCB mods. Especially with LL down for a month, I don't have much time for anything other than filling orders and if Im lucky a little homework.
toodles been try'un to reach u via AIM bout the IMP......no replies
And yet I answer posts in the Cthulhu and Imp and UPCB threads pretty quickly. Post up your question. AIM is intrusive, interupts what I am in the middle of, and doesn't help anyone but the two people chatting. Forum posts wait until I have a moment, and benefit all who read them.
But why would you need to? Your stick isn't going to gain a guide button and no longer need it without digging out some tools, it seems like the only practical use for that would be if your guide button broke and you weren't able to repair it immediately.
Just asked incase some want to un-do the soldier for a future case that they know will have different guide settings. Obviously though, anyone with that many custom's under their belt would hopefully have the skills to remove/add the soldier bridge. Nothing major, was just wondering if it'd help his design be more "user friendly".
So freaking excited about this... I keep checking this thread everyday.
Appreciated, but the parts are already here, and the boards aren't due to arrive until the 23rd or so. Sorry brother, but there ain't gonna be much exciting to report for a week or so :)
Toodles, I wanted to know more about how you program the boards, where/how u learned to do so, and what language you use. I thought such a conversation was not completely appropriate in this thread. Sorry I wasnt trying to be a jerk. I am a Software Engineer, but have never worked with direct chip programming and the like.
On a side note, It seems you already have all the boards/parts.... but should there ever be a second run, I prefer a more symmetric/square board, dont know if there are other considerations, just my 2 cents(alas I came late to the thread).
Toodles, I wanted to know more about how you program the boards, where/how u learned to do so, and what language you use. I thought such a conversation was not completely appropriate in this thread. Sorry I wasnt trying to be a jerk. I am a Software Engineer, but have never worked with direct chip programming and the like.
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=5767608&postcount=202
If I were to learn it all over again, the route described in that post would be the way I'd want to go. The way I did it was a serious pain the tuckus. If you're comfy with programming, and you get a good setup like I describe in that thread, it's not hard to jump right in. A lot of the weirder low level stuff is taken care of for you.
On a side note, It seems you already have all the boards/parts.... but should there ever be a second run, I prefer a more symmetric/square board, dont know if there are other considerations, just my 2 cents(alas I came late to the thread).
The piece that sticks out doesn't have any electronics going through it; it'd be easy to cut off for a plain rectangular board, and was put on so there'd be a solid way to mount it inside a MadCatz stick. I'll put up the EAGLE files for the pcb layout in a bit, and I'd seriously love to see what ideas folks can come up with for improving it; this batch of 100 is sort of a trial run, so any improvements are very welcome.
The RadioShack E.L.L. is no longer offered @ rs.com but acquirable through ebay.
How important is this in the grand scheme of things? is it just a learning tool, or is it a test bed you regularly use for building these projects? If so how is it used (can u give simple example).
In your experience can you give pros/cons of going Boarduino vs Arduino?
Will I only need one of these to create/test with, or is this the actual brains that goes onto every project?
Although I have very little experience with this particular subject, combined parts from 10 years of custom joystick mods/creation and some electrical tools from working in construction/hvac reapir I happen to have every tool in the LadyAda's Starter kit HAHAHAHA Ugh.... hehe
Well except maybe an oscilloscope for detailed signal testing......
I live in Silicon Valley and have 3 Fry's within 10 minutes drive (for those who dont know, Frys is like the Toy's R Us for this type of sh!t) FTW So I can get all kinds of parts plugged into a breadboard. But Im curious about the process. I have built small circuits for wireless operation of Happ 360's using a 5v relays, and a voltage stepdown IC with various resistors etc. But am curious about the process, you build the circuit, program the IC, what happens between that and the finished product everyone gets (specialized IC/ circut pcb w/ traces etc)?
Sorry, I don't have the time to go into all of that. You have a lot of tools at your disposal already. Dive in. Just about everything I've learned has been by doing, failing, fixing, and repeating.
Sorry, I don't have the time to go into all of that. You have a lot of tools at your disposal already. Dive in. Just about everything I've learned has been by doing, failing, fixing, and repeating.
Doh!
Ow well I was hoping to get a little more info before jumping in, I dont really have the time/money to make that next big jump with out a little more backgound info ie if that radioshack thing is just a learning tool Im not sure if its something I should start with first or something that only teaches basics I already have knowledge of....... Well I guess i'll be patient till u get more time or I have more time/money/balls to take the next jump somewhat blind.
Thx neway, will look forward to your imp progress. good luck, may see my name on the order list, also forgive, I just dbl checked but didnt see an anticpated final customer cost?
$7, unassembled. I may end including DIP sockets for the chips which would increase it to $8, but I want to try without the sockets for a while; unless you're leaving the iron on the chip legs for minutes at a time the sockets shouldn't be neccessary. I'm not really considering assembled ones, because soldering is 100% required in order to use it.
So, what color PCB did you go with, or is it a surprise? :P
I went with black with white writing. I cant wait to see what they look like. I dont remember if I select the 'matte' finish or not. Betcherass I'll have pics posted as soon as they get here. Getting boards in the mail always feels like Xmas.
So if everything goes well over the weekend these might available as soon as monday (the 23rd)? I'm asking because I'm planning to order a couple of Cthulhu boards and if these are available soon I'll just wait a bit to order everything at once
EDIT: And btw Toodles, since no one answered your question about having pins to connect leds to see which system is selected I'm assuming you didn't go forward with this, right? It would be a really neat feature imo :)
So if everything goes well over the weekend these might available as soon as monday (the 23rd)? I'm asking because I'm planning to order a couple of Cthulhu boards and if these are available soon I'll just wait a bit to order everything at once
EDIT: And btw Toodles, since no one answered your question about having pins to connect leds to see which system is selected I'm assuming you didn't go forward with this, right? It would be a really neat feature imo :)
I said they'd be available by the 30th; they may be available before then, but I have no idea when that might be.
Yeah, the LED idea got canned because I'd need to make room for at least one resistor.
Anyone willing to provide a wiring diagram for this connected to a 360 TE stick and a Cthulhu (possibly pics) Basically I want to use the Xbox Guide button as the PS button in that mode including and the locking of that button w/ ST/SL buttons too. I dont know if Cthulhu has controller number led support... gotta search that thread, but Id also want to wire the switch button to Start or a face button.
Code is written, and tests out well with the multimeter and switches and resistors and all of the other stuff needed to test it. All it needs now is to be tested in a stick.
I've got some work to do assembling Cthulhu boards, so I need to catch up with that before I install it in one of the TE's here. I'm going to grab the parts for three boards and send to Zombie CPT. I'm hoping that'll be enough for him to test if they work to his approval before sending the big batch when I get the thumbs up. Hopefully I'll be able to test it myself in a TE at the same time.
Minor geek notes in case anyone is interested. I was wrong about being able to use the slower speed of the chip to help reduce power consumption; the internal oscillator only has one speed, 1 MIPS. Current at that speed is average of 1.1mA according to the data sheet. Still, a very low number. But, we only need to keep it on if we're doing the whole 'Start+Select=Guide' functionality. For the other 99% who actually have a dedicated Home/Guide button, the chip will go to sleep mode, and pull only 2.4uA. That's so puny none of my multimeters can even measure it. :)
Does this mean Imps are ready for sale? NO. Not until Zombie gets his batch, and definitely not until it's been tested in a real stick.
Cracked open the SE stick I used for the solderless Cthulhu mod. Removed the second USB cable, and wired in the Imp so it only used the one USB cord.
Results were half good, half bad. On one hand, the selection of which PCB to use, based on holding down Guide when plugging in, worked flawlessly. No Guide, Cthulhu; with guide, 360. Absolutely beautiful.
The bad part is that the jumper was shorted; it should have been looking at the buttons wired for start and select, and not Guide. Oh well. I'm pretty sure I know what happened though; one of the pins is supposed to go low, wait a tic, and then check to see if the Guide button is low too. If it is, then we know the jumper was shorted and we need to setup the whole Start+Select=Guide thingy. The MadCatz sticks have capacitors on most of the signal lines to smooth out the signal, because microswitches cause nasty 'bounce' noise when pressed or released. The cap slows it down so its a smooth transition from high to low; if the delay was too short, that smooth decline might still be high enough for the chip to consider it high. So, I need to up the delay. No big deal, and I'll test that out on a TE here shortly. (Ironically, a TE or SE is probably the last stick you'd ever need that functionality for. Still, best to get it perfect before selling.)
Its not my best wiring work, but I hope to throw the SE up on ebay here soon and see if there's any market interest in a dual modded, sanwa modded SE.
These "Imp" boards, along with the Cthulhu boards, are now for sale in the do-it-yourself section of my website; with Toodles' authorization of course. Thanks Marcus for letting me carry these items.
Sackofrice, an unassembled Cthulhu kit will not come with the terminal stripes or USB jack, so you'd have to either buy those separately or connect your wires differently. The advantage of assembled is less work and the possibility of doing the mod without soldering, since you just screw the wires into the barrier strips.
These "Imp" boards, along with the Cthulhu boards, are now for sale in the do-it-yourself section of my website; with Toodles' authorization of course. Thanks Marcus for letting me carry these items.
I own an xbox 360 TE Stick, and I want to make a switchless dual mod.
Assembled or un-assembled Cthuhlu board? What are the advantages/drawbacks of either one?
Thanks!
The 360 TE I'm working on now started off with an unassembled Cthulhu. All of the signals connecting it to the 360 pcb were soldered to the unlabelled holes on the side opposite if where the USB jack can go.
The thing is, using an Imp requires soldering; there's no way around it. So the TE mod I'm doing and taking pictures of assumes you're comfortable soldering. If you're not, it's really in your best interest to find a tech who is to do it for you. If you get an assembled Cthulhu and use the screw terminals, you reduce the soldering you have to do on the Cthulhu, but the wiring becomes a little messier, and you still have the much more difficult soldering of the wires to the TE board.
The imp board look so sexy and it has some cool funktions. But I have a few questions. Well I use my stick to boot up my X360, will this still be working even if I have x360 as secondary and have no dedicated guide button, in other words will it be possible to boot up my 360 holding back+start button (if my x360 is connected as secondary)?
See if I understod this right. The cthulhu and imp are not only limited to use together with madcatz TE or SE stick, it can be use together with a madcats retro arcadestick mod in a hori T5 stick, right?
The imp board look so sexy and it has some cool funktions. But I have a few questions. Well I use my stick to boot up my X360, will this still be working even if I have x360 as secondary and have no dedicated guide button, in other words will it be possible to boot up my 360 holding back+start button (if my x360 is connected as secondary)?
If the xbox360 is secondary, and you're using the start+back=guide functionality, then just hold down start+back when plugging in. The Imp will select the secondary pcb, and then the start+back functionality will start holding down the guide button.
The tricky part is, I'm not 100% sure how it will act if you're leaving it plugged in. If it works like I think, then the power will still be applied to the stick, and it will remain in xbox360 mode even when the 360 is 'off'. If that's the case, then holding start+back will turn on the 360.
See if I understod this right. The cthulhu and imp are not only limited to use together with madcatz TE or SE stick, it can be use together with a madcats retro arcadestick mod in a hori T5 stick, right?
I don't know what you mean about the T5 stick, but you're correct that it is not limited to the setups I've done; it doesn't care where the two D+ and D- lines come from, it just directs one or the other to the output.
Imp test successful. Both regular USB switching functionality and the 'Start+Select=Guide' functionality works like a champ. I need to finish reassembling this TE so I can get it out to the customer, but if anyone would like to place orders, they are welcome to. I will do my best to get a small 'welcome sheet' done to include in the kits out on Monday, but I can't guarantee that they'll be ready by Monday to mail off. Cost is $7 per, and I can fit a bunch into a small flat rate priority box, so $6 shipping for US, $11 for Canada, and $13 everywhere else.
If you're ordering a bunch for your own use (ones you'll be soldering yourself) and don't need them individually wrapped, please let me know; it'll make packing a lot easier.
Imp test successful. Both regular USB switching functionality and the 'Start+Select=Guide' functionality works like a champ. I need to finish reassembling this TE so I can get it out to the customer, but if anyone would like to place orders, they are welcome to. I will do my best to get a small 'welcome sheet' done to include in the kits out on Monday, but I can't guarantee that they'll be ready by Monday to mail off. Cost is $7 per, and I can fit a bunch into a small flat rate priority box, so $6 shipping for US, $11 for Canada, and $13 everywhere else.
If you're ordering a bunch for your own use (ones you'll be soldering yourself) and don't need them individually wrapped, please let me know; it'll make packing a lot easier.
Damn, I'd place an order right now if I could get an MC cthulhu.
"I want to get served by a monkey so bad." - Humbag | So what am I? SRK's resident lion fucker? - Syke1
"Thunder my fucking ass." - ckrazy | "I might fap, G." - Stuckey
this seems rather interesting. i do like the idea. although currently, if i dual-mod anything, it would be an old agetec, which barely has room for an xbox pcb to begin with... too bad you cant make those things smaller toodles
Comments
I don't know, i was just trying to explain why the other guy would have wanted it.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree Like1. The boards that were ordered a week ago are exactly like the last picture I posted. The big rectangle is 25mmx42mm. The little stick out part is 8.5mmx10mm. Maximum width and maximum height is 33.5mmx42mm
2. As the Cthulhu? Yes, it can use a standard USB 'B' jack, but I expect most folks with solder the cable straight to it, especially in the MadCatz sticks.
3. Ummm...Documentation. Pictures, instructions, etc on how to use it and how to use the Cthulhu in dual PCB mods. Especially with LL down for a month, I don't have much time for anything other than filling orders and if Im lucky a little homework.
And yet I answer posts in the Cthulhu and Imp and UPCB threads pretty quickly. Post up your question. AIM is intrusive, interupts what I am in the middle of, and doesn't help anyone but the two people chatting. Forum posts wait until I have a moment, and benefit all who read them.
No need, plenty will be available when they're available.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeJust asked incase some want to un-do the soldier for a future case that they know will have different guide settings. Obviously though, anyone with that many custom's under their belt would hopefully have the skills to remove/add the soldier bridge. Nothing major, was just wondering if it'd help his design be more "user friendly".
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeOn a side note, It seems you already have all the boards/parts.... but should there ever be a second run, I prefer a more symmetric/square board, dont know if there are other considerations, just my 2 cents(alas I came late to the thread).
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeIf I were to learn it all over again, the route described in that post would be the way I'd want to go. The way I did it was a serious pain the tuckus. If you're comfy with programming, and you get a good setup like I describe in that thread, it's not hard to jump right in. A lot of the weirder low level stuff is taken care of for you. The piece that sticks out doesn't have any electronics going through it; it'd be easy to cut off for a plain rectangular board, and was put on so there'd be a solid way to mount it inside a MadCatz stick. I'll put up the EAGLE files for the pcb layout in a bit, and I'd seriously love to see what ideas folks can come up with for improving it; this batch of 100 is sort of a trial run, so any improvements are very welcome.
SPARK now available! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.22310/
Kittys are here! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/o.129829/
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThe RadioShack E.L.L. is no longer offered @ rs.com but acquirable through ebay.
How important is this in the grand scheme of things? is it just a learning tool, or is it a test bed you regularly use for building these projects? If so how is it used (can u give simple example).
In your experience can you give pros/cons of going Boarduino vs Arduino?
Will I only need one of these to create/test with, or is this the actual brains that goes onto every project?
Although I have very little experience with this particular subject, combined parts from 10 years of custom joystick mods/creation and some electrical tools from working in construction/hvac reapir I happen to have every tool in the LadyAda's Starter kit HAHAHAHA Ugh.... hehe
Well except maybe an oscilloscope for detailed signal testing......
I live in Silicon Valley and have 3 Fry's within 10 minutes drive (for those who dont know, Frys is like the Toy's R Us for this type of sh!t) FTW So I can get all kinds of parts plugged into a breadboard. But Im curious about the process. I have built small circuits for wireless operation of Happ 360's using a 5v relays, and a voltage stepdown IC with various resistors etc. But am curious about the process, you build the circuit, program the IC, what happens between that and the finished product everyone gets (specialized IC/ circut pcb w/ traces etc)?
Thx Toodles! :)
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeDoh!
Ow well I was hoping to get a little more info before jumping in, I dont really have the time/money to make that next big jump with out a little more backgound info ie if that radioshack thing is just a learning tool Im not sure if its something I should start with first or something that only teaches basics I already have knowledge of....... Well I guess i'll be patient till u get more time or I have more time/money/balls to take the next jump somewhat blind.
Thx neway, will look forward to your imp progress. good luck, may see my name on the order list, also forgive, I just dbl checked but didnt see an anticpated final customer cost?
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeEDIT: And btw Toodles, since no one answered your question about having pins to connect leds to see which system is selected I'm assuming you didn't go forward with this, right? It would be a really neat feature imo :)
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI said they'd be available by the 30th; they may be available before then, but I have no idea when that might be.
Yeah, the LED idea got canned because I'd need to make room for at least one resistor.
SPARK now available! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.22310/
Kittys are here! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/o.129829/
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThat is hot.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeLooking good
Well in that case I'll wait a bit longer before getting some more Cthulhus, thanks for the info Toodles
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeWWWWOOOOOOOWWWWWWW! Me ... want ... it ... NOW! Put me down for one Toodles! AWESOME!
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI've got some work to do assembling Cthulhu boards, so I need to catch up with that before I install it in one of the TE's here. I'm going to grab the parts for three boards and send to Zombie CPT. I'm hoping that'll be enough for him to test if they work to his approval before sending the big batch when I get the thumbs up. Hopefully I'll be able to test it myself in a TE at the same time.
Minor geek notes in case anyone is interested. I was wrong about being able to use the slower speed of the chip to help reduce power consumption; the internal oscillator only has one speed, 1 MIPS. Current at that speed is average of 1.1mA according to the data sheet. Still, a very low number. But, we only need to keep it on if we're doing the whole 'Start+Select=Guide' functionality. For the other 99% who actually have a dedicated Home/Guide button, the chip will go to sleep mode, and pull only 2.4uA. That's so puny none of my multimeters can even measure it. :)
Does this mean Imps are ready for sale? NO. Not until Zombie gets his batch, and definitely not until it's been tested in a real stick.
SPARK now available! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.22310/
Kittys are here! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/o.129829/
Cthulhu f'tagn http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeResults were half good, half bad. On one hand, the selection of which PCB to use, based on holding down Guide when plugging in, worked flawlessly. No Guide, Cthulhu; with guide, 360. Absolutely beautiful.
The bad part is that the jumper was shorted; it should have been looking at the buttons wired for start and select, and not Guide. Oh well. I'm pretty sure I know what happened though; one of the pins is supposed to go low, wait a tic, and then check to see if the Guide button is low too. If it is, then we know the jumper was shorted and we need to setup the whole Start+Select=Guide thingy. The MadCatz sticks have capacitors on most of the signal lines to smooth out the signal, because microswitches cause nasty 'bounce' noise when pressed or released. The cap slows it down so its a smooth transition from high to low; if the delay was too short, that smooth decline might still be high enough for the chip to consider it high. So, I need to up the delay. No big deal, and I'll test that out on a TE here shortly. (Ironically, a TE or SE is probably the last stick you'd ever need that functionality for. Still, best to get it perfect before selling.)
Its not my best wiring work, but I hope to throw the SE up on ebay here soon and see if there's any market interest in a dual modded, sanwa modded SE.
SPARK now available! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.22310/
Kittys are here! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/o.129829/
Cthulhu f'tagn http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeCan't wait for these, maybe I can grab one of those initial three from zombie cpt. :)
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree Likehttp://gamingnow.net/DIY.html
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeMicrosoft Wireless Gamepad
Item # 0001
for $39.95...
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeHah, one minute I forgot to edit that.
Damn distractions in my house tonight.
Never update your website when there is a party at your place.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI'm new.
I own an xbox 360 TE Stick, and I want to make a switchless dual mod.
Assembled or un-assembled Cthuhlu board? What are the advantages/drawbacks of either one?
Thanks!
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeDoes the Imp you are selling come with any kind of welcome document or building instructions like the Cthulhu?
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI would like to know this also cause if so them I'm ordering asap.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThe 360 TE I'm working on now started off with an unassembled Cthulhu. All of the signals connecting it to the 360 pcb were soldered to the unlabelled holes on the side opposite if where the USB jack can go.
The thing is, using an Imp requires soldering; there's no way around it. So the TE mod I'm doing and taking pictures of assumes you're comfortable soldering. If you're not, it's really in your best interest to find a tech who is to do it for you. If you get an assembled Cthulhu and use the screw terminals, you reduce the soldering you have to do on the Cthulhu, but the wiring becomes a little messier, and you still have the much more difficult soldering of the wires to the TE board.
I plan on making a little half-sheet welcome doc like the Cthulhu has, yes. Haven't done it yet though.
Let me get back to you on that one.
SPARK now available! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.22310/
Kittys are here! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/o.129829/
Cthulhu f'tagn http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI've purchased my unassembled Cthulhu and an Imp.
This is my first mod, and i have ambitious plans for it ^^
You're a great community member Toods. Keep it up!
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThe imp board look so sexy and it has some cool funktions. But I have a few questions. Well I use my stick to boot up my X360, will this still be working even if I have x360 as secondary and have no dedicated guide button, in other words will it be possible to boot up my 360 holding back+start button (if my x360 is connected as secondary)?
See if I understod this right. The cthulhu and imp are not only limited to use together with madcatz TE or SE stick, it can be use together with a madcats retro arcadestick mod in a hori T5 stick, right?
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThe tricky part is, I'm not 100% sure how it will act if you're leaving it plugged in. If it works like I think, then the power will still be applied to the stick, and it will remain in xbox360 mode even when the 360 is 'off'. If that's the case, then holding start+back will turn on the 360. I don't know what you mean about the T5 stick, but you're correct that it is not limited to the setups I've done; it doesn't care where the two D+ and D- lines come from, it just directs one or the other to the output.
SPARK now available! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.22310/
Kittys are here! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/o.129829/
Cthulhu f'tagn http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeIf you're ordering a bunch for your own use (ones you'll be soldering yourself) and don't need them individually wrapped, please let me know; it'll make packing a lot easier.
SPARK now available! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.22310/
Kittys are here! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/o.129829/
Cthulhu f'tagn http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeScore... in for an Imp and a Cthulhu!
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree Like"Thunder my fucking ass." - ckrazy | "I might fap, G." - Stuckey
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI got tons of 'em.
SPARK now available! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.22310/
Kittys are here! http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/o.129829/
Cthulhu f'tagn http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/
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