Just finished doing some testing to see if I could figure out the warping issue. It seems like the heat from your hand rubbing the plexi while playing causes it to warp. So the more you play in that session the more it kinda warps upwards. However, after a while of not playing it seems like it goes back to not being warped again. Weird.
syn13SynWerks...no relation to SYN|MC Honzo GonzoJoined: Posts: 1,303✭
Actually, my theory is for the VS stick is that the placement of screws are spread out too far apart from each other resulting in the plexi no being securely held down and the fact that the impact plexi can naturally flex doesn't help. A 1/16" plexi should solve the problem since they snap with a slight bend.
I have an SFxT Pro Plexi with the new acrylic plexi by Art and I can say it warps from time to time (Partly because I left it in the sun during MLG Anaheim)
If this happens, I'd recommend you put something heavy on top of the warped areas (Like a book) and leave it in the shade for a while. It does the trick.
Thank you Art for providing such a quality product. Got another 3 or 4 plexi orders coming your way soon and one of these days I'll be able to afford a plexi for each of my 20+ of my sticks. I'd add some VLX Premium plexis in a future order if you offered them.
So, funny enough, I had kind of the same idea as that Hello Kitty stick, re: using acrylic cutouts to create a unique effect, and Art started working with me on it months ago. Instead of being a Tek case, however, mine is a custom plexi set for a TE-S. I had a PS360+ put in at the same time, which ended up taking a little longer than expected, but it's finally done and I can show it off.
[SIZE=13px]So what you're seeing here is actually two layers of acrylic with an artwork print underneath it all. The top layer is clear, save for the PS3/360 button label etchings; the middle layer is an opaque glossy black plexi with a logo cut out of it (it's for a band I like), and the logo is filled in with clear acrylic pieces cut to fit the logo; and the bottom layer is the artwork, which only shows through where the logo is cut away.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=13px]Once the Remora PCB LED controller has the functionality I'm looking for, I'll probably be cracking it back open to add LEDs to all the buttons, hopefully with color scheme presets that are game-dependent.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=13px]Big thanks to Art for doing some major tinkering and testing to make sure this idea would work; as far as I know, this is not within the normal range of services he offers (because it was probably a big pain in the ass to do), but he hooked me up. Also thanks to rivals for handling the internal work.[/SIZE]
For SFXT PS3 Fighstick Pros, how does one go about installing the artwork? Do you just peel off the official artwork and pop it on?
After installing art's artwork on my stick I recommend that everyone should try the hair dryer trick.
A little heat on the original artwork allows it to pop off nicely and you can reuse the old art if you would like;however, the main reason is so that your new artwork printed from art will not stick to the metal panel.
After installing art's artwork on my stick I recommend that everyone should try the hair dryer trick.
A little heat on the original artwork allows it to pop off nicely and you can reuse the old art if you would like;however, the main reason is so that your new artwork printed from art will not stick to the metal panel.
That post was awhile DB, thanks for the tips though. Damn, wish I'd know about it earlier. I just tore my art off messily. Didn't really care much for it, but obviously would have been better if I conserved the SFXT art.
That post was awhile DB, thanks for the tips though. Damn, wish I'd know about it earlier. I just tore my art off messily. Didn't really care much for it, but obviously would have been better if I conserved the SFXT art.
Well I didn't like the original SFxT Art myself LOL. Only thing was that my artwork printed very bright and I asked Art for a reprint (Which he did, <3 you Arthur!)
Any who, I was trying to take off the first print to add the replacement print and it was stuck to that ripped off sticker crap from the original SFxT artwork. Big pain and I was planning on saving the brighter print as a keepsake...
Well I didn't like the original SFxT Art myself LOL. Only thing was that my artwork printed very bright and I asked Art for a reprint (Which he did, <3 you Arthur!)
Any who, I was trying to take off the first print to add the replacement print and it was stuck to that ripped off sticker crap from the original SFxT artwork. Big pain and I was planning on saving the brighter print as a keepsake...
WTH! Wow, Im in the boat! My artwork came out super bright, I did not like it. The plexi was fantastic, but not my art print. I contacted art, but he hasn't gotten to me it yet :(. Irregardless, I made a new art design featuring Ryu. To avoid saturation / brightnesss issues, I purposely lowered the brightness / colours by a lot. His print should ideally balance things out.
And...taking off my plexi just now, I realized my current superbright artwork is indeed stuck to the adhesive residue....
WTH! Wow, Im in the boat! My artwork came out super bright, I did not like it. The plexi was fantastic, but not my art print. I contacted art, but he hasn't gotten to me it yet :(. Irregardless, I made a new art design featuring Ryu. To avoid saturation / brightnesss issues, I purposely lowered the brightness / colours by a lot. His print should ideally balance things out.
And...taking off my plexi just now, I realized my current superbright artwork is indeed stuck to the adhesive residue....
We must prevent future youngsters from experiencing this issue.
He's including the shipping days as well. I am also 7 days in on my order too. My last order came in 20 days (non business days included), so I expect the same for this one. In the meantime, its actually best not to think about it.
I also purchased mirrored and clear dustwashers. I hope they look nice with LEDs.
Hey Donkey, is there some sort of secret, easier way of changing the artwork on the SFXT FSP that I do not know of? I hate having to remove my entire Arc Eye set + buttons...but its impossible to change the artwork without doing so.
Pinoy2DFighters - The Philippines brings you 3 things: terrorists, trolls and ass beatings in MAHVELL. D3Vlicious.com - Fighting game and arcade stick news. Follow me on Twitter @D3Vlicious PSN: unityd3v (US), pinakaguwaping (HK)
Yeah, I know.. I meant I'm 7 days in... and should be at max 7-12 more......... given shipping...
You have to take into consideration that Art's Hobbies is run by Art himself. It's not the typical business where there are several workers and things are made ahead of time.
You have to realize that the art and plexi are made to order. Just wait... Patience is golden.
Advice is like.. "you should do this".. You were telling me i "have" to do this and that. Kinda similar to a lecture. Anyway lets drop this nonsense.
Does anyone know where specifically i can get those clear cylindrical spacers that are good for spacing the cthulhu on the pcb mount plate? They are featured in the assembly video around half way in
Look man I'm not trying to pick a stupid fight on a forum. Save the aggression for a fight game or something. And you mocked me by copying my syntax, it's all completely unnecessary. I know it takes two weeks to make (see my post saying how many days i should have left to wait, that kind of suggests i know the procedure).
I'm done with this argument or whatever you're trying to start, I'm not trying to get infracted.
Look man I'm not trying to pick a stupid fight on a forum. Save the aggression for a fight game or something. And you mocked me by copying my syntax, it's all completely unnecessary. I know it takes two weeks to make (see my post saying how many days i should have left to wait, that kind of suggests i know the procedure).
I'm done with this argument or whatever you're trying to start, I'm not trying to get infracted.
Argument? If that's how you wanted to interpret it, sure.
I was just informing you on how busy Arthur is and you were taking it too hard.
Argument? If that's how you wanted to interpret it, sure.
I was just informing you on how busy Arthur is and you were taking it too hard.
Actually, to an outsider like myself it did look like you were the only one being antagonizing. Anyways, its over and done with. Lets get back on topic XD.
Actually, to an outsider like myself it did look like you were the only one being antagonizing. Anyways, its over and done with. Lets get back on topic XD.
It just makes me angry when people don't realize that this is a single owned business and people don't take that into consideration. I only let him know what Arthur has to deal with and that he is not like other businesses.
It just makes me angry when people don't realize that this is a single owned business and people don't take that into consideration. I only let him know what Arthur has to deal with and that he is not like other businesses.
But he wasn't upset. He never was upset. He never didn't understand Art's situation. There was no reason to inform him on anything. His post clearly showed that he knew how much longer he had to wait, and that he was simply *excited* for the day to come. Next time, just let the man voice his excitement towards receiving his order. No need to white knight in that scenario. Take care.
But he wasn't upset. He never was upset. He never didn't understand Art's situation. There was no reason to inform him on anything. His post clearly showed that he knew how much longer he had to wait, and that he was simply *excited* for the day to come. Next time, just let the man voice his excitement towards receiving his order. No need to white knight in that scenario. Take care.
Regardless his whole "like an eternity.." made it seem like he was bitching. Until he last minute revised to "being excited".
The whole white knight phrase thing can end now. I'm only backing up Arthur's busy situations and people should take that for granted.
I didn't revise anything... And if you really don't see that im excited, look at the post i made Monday in the DIY acrylic case thread :) that should dispel your beliefs that im bitching
I didn't revise anything... And if you really don't see that im excited, look at the post i made Monday in the DIY acrylic case thread :) that should dispel your beliefs that im bitching
Funny you say you're done with the "argument" but you're back for more..
Any who I'm getting very sick of this and should put an end to this,
I'm sorry for all the miscommunication and I didn't mean to make it too harsh. I only wanted others to realize how Art runs the whole thing but then again you were "excited" so who cares. Goodluck on your order and all of us wish to see the results.
So, funny enough, I had kind of the same idea as that Hello Kitty stick, re: using acrylic cutouts to create a unique effect, and Art started working with me on it months ago. Instead of being a Tek case, however, mine is a custom plexi set for a TE-S. I had a PS360+ put in at the same time, which ended up taking a little longer than expected, but it's finally done and I can show it off.
[SIZE=13px]So what you're seeing here is actually two layers of acrylic with an artwork print underneath it all. The top layer is clear, save for the PS3/360 button label etchings; the middle layer is an opaque glossy black plexi with a logo cut out of it (it's for a band I like), and the logo is filled in with clear acrylic pieces cut to fit the logo; and the bottom layer is the artwork, which only shows through where the logo is cut away.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=13px]Once the Remora PCB LED controller has the functionality I'm looking for, I'll probably be cracking it back open to add LEDs to all the buttons, hopefully with color scheme presets that are game-dependent.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=13px]Big thanks to Art for doing some major tinkering and testing to make sure this idea would work; as far as I know, this is not within the normal range of services he offers (because it was probably a big pain in the ass to do), but he hooked me up. Also thanks to rivals for handling the internal work.[/SIZE]
This is such an AMAZING stick. I was just wondering what kind of buttons those are and where can i get them. i think u said in another thread that they were sanwa obsms? but i cant find ones that look like that
This is such an AMAZING stick. I was just wondering what kind of buttons those are and where can i get them. i think u said in another thread that they were sanwa obsms? but i cant find ones that look like that
Thanks dude! I love the buttons too -- I was planning to go with Seimitsus again, but when I saw these, it made me change my mind. Like jdm said, they're available in all basic colors on FocusAttack. Here's a link for the black ones, but you can find the rest along with all the other Sanwa 30mm buttons: http://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-obsc-30mm-pushbutton-clear-rim-solid-plunger-black/
Thanks dude! I love the buttons too -- I was planning to go with Seimitsus again, but when I saw these, it made me change my mind. Like jdm said, they're available in all basic colors on FocusAttack. Here's a link for the black ones, but you can find the rest along with all the other Sanwa 30mm buttons: http://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-obsc-30mm-pushbutton-clear-rim-solid-plunger-black/
Thanks so much! It`s going to really help with my design idea. :D
Anyone have any close up pics of Art's mirror plexis that have been etched? The examples and explanations on Tek-Innovations are a bit small to see the detail on how the etch becomes kinda opaque with whatever color underneath it.
Anyone have any close up pics of Art's mirror plexis that have been etched? The examples and explanations on Tek-Innovations are a bit small to see the detail on how the etch becomes kinda opaque with whatever color underneath it.
Here's one of my etched mirror plexis with black paper underneath:
I just got my first attempt at photoshop in. I didn't do it perfectly, but i like it.
Please forgive the terrible phone picture
EDIT: While it will be visible to almost no one under normal circumstances, I went and replaced the start and back buttons with yellow ones to complete the charade. It sure is a pain to get to those, comparatively.
I ordered a plexi and printed art for my FS PRO, but am unable to find a video on youtube or a website with a tutorial to help me out (they're all for the TEs). From what I can gather, is this all I have to do when I receive it?
- open up the back of the joystick
- unscrew the balltop, disconnect and pop out the buttons
- peel off the sticker currently on the top
- remove the screws from the metal plate
- put my artwork/plexi on
- screw new screws in
- put buttons / balltop back on
- reconnect buttons
- close up the back of the joystick
Thanks for your help, and I'll post pics once I'm done!
I ordered a plexi and printed art for my FS PRO, but am unable to find a video on youtube or a website with a tutorial to help me out (they're all for the TEs). From what I can gather, is this all I have to do when I receive it?
- open up the back of the joystick
- unscrew the balltop, disconnect and pop out the buttons
- peel off the sticker currently on the top
- remove the screws from the metal plate
- put my artwork/plexi on
- screw new screws in
- put buttons / balltop back on
- reconnect buttons
- close up the back of the joystick
Thanks for your help, and I'll post pics once I'm done!
I'd recommend you use a hairdryer to remove the original top panel artwork.
The heat will help you significantly when you're pulling off the default/stock artwork off the SFxT Pro.
Other than that, if you know how to disassemble an SFxT Pro Stick, what you stated is good.
Comments
UMvC3: Magneto/Viper/Doom - Magneto/Doom/Trish - Jill/Viper/Magneto
SFxT: Juri/Akuma
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeAlso last time I checked on the site it looked like the thick version was only available in white and black for the 1/16.
UMvC3: Magneto/Viper/Doom - Magneto/Doom/Trish - Jill/Viper/Magneto
SFxT: Juri/Akuma
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeIf this happens, I'd recommend you put something heavy on top of the warped areas (Like a book) and leave it in the shade for a while. It does the trick.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree Like[SIZE=13px]So what you're seeing here is actually two layers of acrylic with an artwork print underneath it all. The top layer is clear, save for the PS3/360 button label etchings; the middle layer is an opaque glossy black plexi with a logo cut out of it (it's for a band I like), and the logo is filled in with clear acrylic pieces cut to fit the logo; and the bottom layer is the artwork, which only shows through where the logo is cut away.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=13px]Once the Remora PCB LED controller has the functionality I'm looking for, I'll probably be cracking it back open to add LEDs to all the buttons, hopefully with color scheme presets that are game-dependent.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=13px]Big thanks to Art for doing some major tinkering and testing to make sure this idea would work; as far as I know, this is not within the normal range of services he offers (because it was probably a big pain in the ass to do), but he hooked me up. Also thanks to rivals for handling the internal work.[/SIZE]
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeUMvC3: Magneto/Viper/Doom - Magneto/Doom/Trish - Jill/Viper/Magneto
SFxT: Juri/Akuma
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeJ&J SoCal Modding: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/113434/
Visit J&J SoCal Modding's Blog for review of new Arcade Parts: http://jjsocalmodding.blogspot.com
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeAfter installing art's artwork on my stick I recommend that everyone should try the hair dryer trick.
A little heat on the original artwork allows it to pop off nicely and you can reuse the old art if you would like;however, the main reason is so that your new artwork printed from art will not stick to the metal panel.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThat post was awhile DB, thanks for the tips though. Damn, wish I'd know about it earlier. I just tore my art off messily. Didn't really care much for it, but obviously would have been better if I conserved the SFXT art.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeWell I didn't like the original SFxT Art myself LOL. Only thing was that my artwork printed very bright and I asked Art for a reprint (Which he did, <3 you Arthur!)
Any who, I was trying to take off the first print to add the replacement print and it was stuck to that ripped off sticker crap from the original SFxT artwork. Big pain and I was planning on saving the brighter print as a keepsake...
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeWTH! Wow, Im in the boat! My artwork came out super bright, I did not like it. The plexi was fantastic, but not my art print. I contacted art, but he hasn't gotten to me it yet :(. Irregardless, I made a new art design featuring Ryu. To avoid saturation / brightnesss issues, I purposely lowered the brightness / colours by a lot. His print should ideally balance things out.
And...taking off my plexi just now, I realized my current superbright artwork is indeed stuck to the adhesive residue....
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeWe must prevent future youngsters from experiencing this issue.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree Like- Spam
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree Like7-14 days.
Just wait..
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI also purchased mirrored and clear dustwashers. I hope they look nice with LEDs.
Hey Donkey, is there some sort of secret, easier way of changing the artwork on the SFXT FSP that I do not know of? I hate having to remove my entire Arc Eye set + buttons...but its impossible to change the artwork without doing so.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeYeah, I know.. I meant I'm 7 days in... and should be at max 7-12 more......... given shipping...
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeD3Vlicious.com - Fighting game and arcade stick news.
Follow me on Twitter @D3Vlicious
PSN: unityd3v (US), pinakaguwaping (HK)
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeYou have to take into consideration that Art's Hobbies is run by Art himself. It's not the typical business where there are several workers and things are made ahead of time.
You have to realize that the art and plexi are made to order. Just wait... Patience is golden.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI'm providing advice, not a lecture :P
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeDoes anyone know where specifically i can get those clear cylindrical spacers that are good for spacing the cthulhu on the pcb mount plate? They are featured in the assembly video around half way in
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI could say the same for your whole "I'm just excited" business.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI'm done with this argument or whatever you're trying to start, I'm not trying to get infracted.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeArgument? If that's how you wanted to interpret it, sure.
I was just informing you on how busy Arthur is and you were taking it too hard.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeActually, to an outsider like myself it did look like you were the only one being antagonizing. Anyways, its over and done with. Lets get back on topic XD.
Tyty! I think I'm going to have to grab a few of those feet. I really like 'em.
UMvC3: Magneto/Viper/Doom - Magneto/Doom/Trish - Jill/Viper/Magneto
SFxT: Juri/Akuma
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeIt just makes me angry when people don't realize that this is a single owned business and people don't take that into consideration. I only let him know what Arthur has to deal with and that he is not like other businesses.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeBut he wasn't upset. He never was upset. He never didn't understand Art's situation. There was no reason to inform him on anything. His post clearly showed that he knew how much longer he had to wait, and that he was simply *excited* for the day to come. Next time, just let the man voice his excitement towards receiving his order. No need to white knight in that scenario. Take care.
UMvC3: Magneto/Viper/Doom - Magneto/Doom/Trish - Jill/Viper/Magneto
SFxT: Juri/Akuma
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeRegardless his whole "like an eternity.." made it seem like he was bitching. Until he last minute revised to "being excited".
The whole white knight phrase thing can end now. I'm only backing up Arthur's busy situations and people should take that for granted.
Farewell.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeFunny you say you're done with the "argument" but you're back for more..
Any who I'm getting very sick of this and should put an end to this,
I'm sorry for all the miscommunication and I didn't mean to make it too harsh. I only wanted others to realize how Art runs the whole thing but then again you were "excited" so who cares. Goodluck on your order and all of us wish to see the results.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThis is such an AMAZING stick. I was just wondering what kind of buttons those are and where can i get them. i think u said in another thread that they were sanwa obsms? but i cant find ones that look like that
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeCanada Cup 2011- 8/95 Never Forget
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeClear White OBSC-30 with swapped Plungers.
You can buy from Focus Attack already swapped.
So you do not have to buy two set of Buttons.
J&J SoCal Modding: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/113434/
Visit J&J SoCal Modding's Blog for review of new Arcade Parts: http://jjsocalmodding.blogspot.com
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThanks so much! It`s going to really help with my design idea. :D
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeHere's one of my etched mirror plexis with black paper underneath:
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeKOFXIII: Benimaru/Kyo/Leona
SSF4AE2012: Vega
GG^CR: Anji/Axl
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikePlease forgive the terrible phone picture
EDIT: While it will be visible to almost no one under normal circumstances, I went and replaced the start and back buttons with yellow ones to complete the charade. It sure is a pain to get to those, comparatively.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree Like- Spam
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree Like- open up the back of the joystick
- unscrew the balltop, disconnect and pop out the buttons
- peel off the sticker currently on the top
- remove the screws from the metal plate
- put my artwork/plexi on
- screw new screws in
- put buttons / balltop back on
- reconnect buttons
- close up the back of the joystick
Thanks for your help, and I'll post pics once I'm done!
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeVery nice. Digging the theme.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI'd recommend you use a hairdryer to remove the original top panel artwork.
The heat will help you significantly when you're pulling off the default/stock artwork off the SFxT Pro.
Other than that, if you know how to disassemble an SFxT Pro Stick, what you stated is good.
Thanks!
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