UNW4NT3D, post: 3064099 wrote:
I went to Halfords today to change the beige filler primer for grey, but the guy at the shop told me they don't do grey filler primer and I'm supposed to do beige filler primer then normal grey primer then black paint. Does this sound right or should I not bother with the grey?
UNW4NT3D, post: 3064101 wrote:
Halfords is sort of an automotive store they sell mountain bikes and car stereos and car maintenance stuff.. there's 1 other store in my town more specialising in car stuff. I'll try there tomorrow.
PopTardO, post: 3064103 wrote:
sorry, what sandpaper did you use to sand the colour coat? still 400 or did you move up to 600?
damn, I cut through the clear coat all the way to the mdf on my last sanding session... I have to touch it up too before any kind of buffering... It's such a delicate and time consuming process...
anymore update?cant wait for second coat
Milkham, post: 3064107 wrote:
would like to see more
Digital717, post: 3064106 wrote:
Sorry I didn't think anyone was still following this thread so I held off on the updates for a little bit.
Mirana, post: 3064109 wrote:
instead on using 600 before the last coat, does 800 or 1200 works? I think see big difference in 400 and 600 but the 1200 is simply tooo fine
catchafire, post: 3064113 wrote:
I just royally fuc*ed my paint job... The corners got me! Even though I could sand the whole thing and start over, I don't have much time too paint. Grrr. Maybe a matted finish will make it okay...
Mirana, post: 3064115 wrote:
dont open the thread if you cant complete it.geez procastinator
Mirana, post: 3064118 wrote:
so whats the minimum coats to reach the mirror finish?
One question, I dont need stain on my wood so do you think I can go straight for gloss poly for every coat?
UNW4NT3D, post: 3064067 wrote:
My case is being made out of pine. Is the filler primer as important when working with pine or will a normal grey primer do the job?
Soarer5, post: 3064120 wrote:
comments like that are unnecessary. he is taking time out of his busy schedule to help others, myself included. you deserve negative rep.
Mirana, post: 3064122 wrote:
^this is the one unneccesary. He didnt update after how many days. Well, dont bring up the thread if you dont have commitment to complete it. Since he apologized, you dont have to bring out the past
fwirth, post: 3064123 wrote:
soarer5's comment is completely valid as you seem to be missing the point of a worklog, where you log your progress as you do it.
I can understand that you want to see this done and the finished product, but calling Digital a procrastinator while he waits for his paint to dry doesn't make to much sense
Mirana, post: 3064124 wrote:
dude, do you have to wait for 3-4 days for the coat to dry?Does he live at Alaska?North/South Pole?Look at the timestamp before you post:annoy:
Mirana, post: 3064126 wrote:
PS: Its not useful if its not completed.2 thumbs down
Okazaki III, post: 3064131 wrote:
What do you use for clear coat? Any brand names to look out for?
Zebra, post: 3064133 wrote:
A guy from Bunnings(similar to home depot) showed me a piece of mirror finished wood like piano. He said total 8 coats(or more) is needed using wet/dry sand paper 800g for every coat and for the last coat 1200g.
Digital717, post: 3064135 wrote:
Just wanted to let everyone know that I'm done with everything. I'll post all of the pics and info in about an hour. It came out very sexy.
Upas, post: 3064136 wrote:
Sweet!! Now I can start painting my case lol.
Digital717, post: 3064137 wrote:
Good luck with your case Upas. I don't want to look at sandpaper again for a while. Haha. This process is incredibly tedious and time consuming.
Everything has been uploaded now in the second post of the thread. I really hope this tutorial helps a lot of people out there.