How to paint MDF to a mirror finish worklog

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  • caesarwxcaesarwx Joined: Posts: 125
    Hey guys, I want to start on my QCF Happ stick and try to at least achieve half decent results as the OP. I sent my cousin out to get wood filler and primer to start and wanted to know if anyone had any opinions on these ones:

    http://i42.tinypic.com/2hf2nhl.jpg
    http://i40.tinypic.com/212eaeb.jpg

    He also got 400 grit and 600 grit sandpaper. As far as the Happ case is concerned, only the rounded edges on the case looks like they need to be sealed (similar to JMro's post on page 10).

    Any thoughts?
    Avoiding high blood pressure...
  • SystemSystem Joined: Posts: 508,676 admin

    hey man sorry for the nooby question. I was wondering how you got that glittery effect on the metallic blue stick. Did you do anything special besides what the tutorial says or is the paint just glittery like that? and if so can you please tell me the name of that paint and brand. I'm looking for a black or red one like that. Please & thank you :D Nice stick btw.:woot:
  • AvidistAvidist Human/Machine Joined: Posts: 135
    It depends on your environment. Is it cold and humid where you are or hot and dry? In a mostly hot and dry place 2 days probably. If it's colder and humid maybe 3-4 days. You're in Cali right? I'd say wait 3 days to be safe.

    What if it was hot and humid? Lol.

    Actually though, it's a legit question. I was thinking about doing this and Georgia is known for extremely hot and humid weather.

    *snip* I was wondering how you got that glittery effect on the metallic blue stick? *snip*

    I think that's probably automobile paint.
    Slip-shod ca-va-lier...

    Super; Adon/Cody/Sagat
    BB:CS; Ragna
    MvC2; Cable/Cykes/Mag
  • spenzaliispenzalii Joined: Posts: 2,016
    I think that's probably automobile paint.

    You are correct. I used Duplicolor Metallic Flake paint, wet sanded it up to 2000 grit then finished it with a top coat of polycrylic for protection and shine.
    It may have already been covered but, what step do I stop on if I just want it painted to look nice and be ready to use? I'll be painting my stick white and most of the surface area is plexi so, I don't think I need to go all out.

    That's up to you. If the finish looks good enough to you after you spray one or two coats of paint on, feel free to stop there. But if you want the super smooth, super shiny finish, follow the steps outlined and you won't be sorry.
    And we build BALLER SHIT! (c) Matskat
  • SystemSystem Joined: Posts: 508,676 admin
    Hey guys, while I have very little to do with Street Fighter, I stumbled across this tutorial via Google and I think you guys could help/give me some advice that I need.. Sorry to bump this thread.
    I'm planning on repainting my (old-ish) laptop (and making a decent job out of it), and this tutorial has told me a lot that I need to do to get a good quality finish. Of course, my laptop casing is plastic and not MDF so there's obviously going to be a few changes to the technique.
    For a start, I figure I'm not going to need the 'filler' primer and regular primer will do fine, and neither will I need the Spackling.

    My question is then, what other differences are there between this tutorial, and the techniques for painting plastic? Any info or advice you guys could offer would be great. I assume that the sanding/coating steps would be the same.

    As far as I have it figured, these are the steps I need to take:

    1) Sand all surfaces with 400grit dry sandpaper to prep for priming
    2) Apply several thin coats of primer, allow to dry, and sand again. Repeat once.
    3) After sanding the 2nd coat of primer with 400grit dry sandpaper, apply several thin coats of colour to make the first official colour coat. Leave to dry.
    4) Wet-sand this with 400grit paper, clean and lay down a 2nd colour coat.
    5) Wet-sand the 2nd coat and apply clear coat
    6) Wet-sand the clear coat starting at 600grit and moving up to 2000grit.
    5) Polish with rubbing compound and swirl remover.

    Does this sound about right?

    I also want to paint some decals using a stencil/template at some stage during this process. Can someone recommend at which stage to do this?

    Thanks so much in advance.
  • flytai45flytai45 Joined: Posts: 217
    this shit was a good read real talk...srk needs more threads like this......
  • TRiXWoNTRiXWoN Solder Soldier in the 6 Button Army Joined: Posts: 1,070
    Patience!

    One important thing is when you get to the end and you spray the clear on even if it looks a little crappy and spotty... once you wet sand it then rubbing compound it... it all goes away. I got so paranoid doing one that I actually resprayed another paint layer after sanding down the clear. I didn't need to do it at all.

    Here is the finished product:
    091b03ee8e74671104da9f4c2fefeabb.jpg?v=239400

    Thanks again for the tutorial.Pa
    ::Mod till your heart's content::
  • BeWrongBeWrong Hori V3 all the way! Joined: Posts: 302
    this is really good. though it seems that you really need to be patient to get great results. will try it out :)
    BeWrong :)
  • BryceFauver2361BryceFauver2361 Joined: Posts: 1
    let me show you how its done...[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]2012-02-16_18-23-44_475.jpg
  • perropulgosoperropulgoso Joined: Posts: 1
    Digital717 wrote: »
    Now we come to the last stage. Finish sanding. This will take you a long time if you do it correctly. For this stage I recommend starting with 600 grit paper and of course always wet sand. After 600 move up progressively to the highest grit you can find. At my local hardware store they only had 600 and 1500, so that's what I used. If you can find 1000 to go in between that and 2000 for the last sand that would be even better.

    This is after wet sanding with 600. As you can see there are still a few little spots that aren't uniform. Ideally you don't want to have a single one of those. I could have done a little better, but just this little piece took about an hour of sanding and I just didn't feel like sanding more, but as you'll see it will still look quite good.

    600clearsanded.jpg

    After sanding as well as possible with 600 I moved on to 1500. This is after wet sanding with 1500 grit. It's best to sand in a 90 degree angle as the last sand when moving up to finer paper. That isn't possible on a case as small as the ones involved in joystick making if you use the whole block because you will hit the edges too much. So my solution is to sand with just the edge of the block until I get most of the previous scratches out. Then finish it off in the same direction as the previous grit and so on.

    1500sanded.jpg

    That's as fine a grit as I had available so now comes the buffing process. You will want a rubbing compound, a swirl remover, and a lot of terry clothes. These are the exact ones that I used.

    materials.jpg

    Just follow the instructions on the packaging for applying the rubbing compound. My only tip is to keep on buffing until you no longer see the straight line scratches from the sandpaper. You want those totally gone. In their place will be swirl mark scratches from the compound. You are ready for the swirl remover at that point.

    In this pic I applied rubbing compound to half and left the other half to show the difference. I used this picture to show what the swirl marks will look like. They aren't nearly as noticable as in this picure. Only in certain light do they become very visible.

    halfcoumpoundapplied.jpg

    This is after buffing the entire thing with rubbing compound and applying the Scratch Doctor brand swirl remover to half.

    halfswirlremoved.jpg

    After finishing with the swirl remover it's all done. At this stage you can wait a month and apply some type of protecive wax if you so choose.

    Finished.jpg

    That's it guys. Good luck trying this on your own projects.

    I just wanna know what size was the nozzle of your spray gun ? I have a 1.4 nozzle and a 1.8 nozzle, these works enough ?


  • ShinjiGohanShinjiGohan Joined: Posts: 5,061 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    I wouldn't imagine that it'd have any real effect on it. I did my painting with spray cans and it came out really well.
  • jerroldsjerrolds Joined: Posts: 28
    Sorry for necroing this thread - im going to start prepping my Vewlix cab for paint and was wondering if it was absolutely necessary to fill the edges of the MDF (im using wood filler)? Can i get away with putting multiple coats of primer and sanding inbetween?

    I was hoping i can do something like this:

    1) First coat of primer - minimum dry time (1hr) - Second coat of primer. Using KILZ premium, they say it should be dry in 30mins, but ill wait an hr before applying another coat.
    2) Sand
    3) Repeat 2 times (total 4 hrs of drying time, 2 sanding sessions, 4 coats of primer)


    Thanks
  • DarakuTenshiDarakuTenshi Joined: Posts: 6
    Great tutorial. I'm thinking about using this method on my cab that I'm building.
  • michellehamichelleha Joined: Posts: 1
    This is a great tutorial - was wondering if I could use a High Gloss paint and apply it with a Ultra Dense Foam Roller - my spray paint technique is less than great.. thoughts?
  • ShinjiGohanShinjiGohan Joined: Posts: 5,061 ✭✭✭✭✭ OG
    that'll probably result in more sanding.
  • ed1371ed1371 Yogahh Joined: Posts: 1,518
    that'll probably result in more sanding.

    This....

    You will have to sand so much it wouldn't be worth it... Even a bad spray would be easier to fix than using a roller.

    Now if you used a flat paint it wouldn't look bad using a roller, a slight texture looks ok with that type of paint.
    why crimp when you can solder??

    PSN: Nippage
  • goldoracluregoldoraclure Joined: Posts: 1
    Hello guys, first of all, thank you very very much Digital for your awesome tuto, it's been a great help, and i have two questions, i started to paint my cabin, for now i only did the first coat of primer
    tumblr_n7l5vk8U8P1so124jo1_1280.jpg
    as you can see there's some scratches on this side, do you think it's gonna be ok at the end ? or should i stop painting and sand it or fill the scratches with wood filler ?

    tumblr_n7l5vk8U8P1so124jo2_1280.jpg
    for this one i don't understant, i used vinyl to seal this edge, and before starting with the primer, the surface was nice, meaning that there was enough vinyl on all the edge area, but now with the primer on top
    of it i can see areas where the paint is not holding, what do you think i should do ?
  • tksaishotksaisho Joined: Posts: 1
    I know your MDF post is 5 years old but it's very good and I am doing a table top with your method. I'm wondering how you get the rounded corners so well finished.
  • ed1371ed1371 Yogahh Joined: Posts: 1,518
    bondo or vinyl spackling, applied liberally and well sanded.
    why crimp when you can solder??

    PSN: Nippage
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 21,584
    Rise+From+Your+Grave.gif

    obligatory meme use.
    ed1371 wrote: »
    bondo or vinyl spackling, applied liberally and well sanded.
    I should of known, 1341's like me need to know this.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • daicondaicon Joined: Posts: 140
    After the clearcoat, can you wait before you apply the rubbing compound and then scratch doctor, or does it have to be done within a certain amount of time?

    Also, is there any alternative to a prep-wipe, like something from home?
  • TRiXWoNTRiXWoN Solder Soldier in the 6 Button Army Joined: Posts: 1,070
    daicon wrote: »
    After the clearcoat, can you wait before you apply the rubbing compound and then scratch doctor, or does it have to be done within a certain amount of time?

    Also, is there any alternative to a prep-wipe, like something from home?

    You have to wait for the clear to completely dry. I waited a week before I did mine. also when you do the rubbing compound the paint gets hazy and its super scary, but then the scratch stuff makes it super shiny.
    ::Mod till your heart's content::
  • GenKaanGenKaan Joined: Posts: 68
    sick stuff, would love a mirror finish to my TE
  • DaohausDaohaus Joined: Posts: 1
    This is a great set of steps! I just built my simrig; 80% completed and wasn't looking forward to painting it. Not sure if my results will look as good as yours (lack of patience) but if it comes out 1/2 as good I'll be stoked. Going to be painting the upper pod gloss white. I can't seem to upload photos so here's the link to the albumhttps://goo.gl/photos/jTnRCmX9m8CLTHmf7
  • dave_bernazanidave_bernazani Joined: Posts: 1
    Nice turorial. Great photos, etc. Only one suggestion: you assume everyone who reads this knows what MDF stands for. I don't!
  • DeeQueDeeQue Can't Kill Kawaii Joined: Posts: 278
    Nice turorial. Great photos, etc. Only one suggestion: you assume everyone who reads this knows what MDF stands for. I don't!

    Let me google that for you.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 21,584
    Nice turorial. Great photos, etc. Only one suggestion: you assume everyone who reads this knows what MDF stands for. I don't!

    MDF is a very common material.
    Usually guides, How-to Books, Automobile Repair Manuals and such assume the reader has a basic level understanding of the subject matter.
    DeeQue wrote: »
    Nice turorial. Great photos, etc. Only one suggestion: you assume everyone who reads this knows what MDF stands for. I don't!

    Let me google that for you.
    This.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • Evolution169Evolution169 Wake up DP is unbeatable Joined: Posts: 1,025
    Nice turorial. Great photos, etc. Only one suggestion: you assume everyone who reads this knows what MDF stands for. I don't!

    Really odd that you signed up just to say this. Even more odd that you found this ancient thread about painting MDF without knowing what MDF is.
  • sasquachsasquach MvC2 making a comeback 2017? Joined: Posts: 365
    Nice turorial. Great photos, etc. Only one suggestion: you assume everyone who reads this knows what MDF stands for. I don't!

    Why does this always happen?
    "I'm just nice" -Harry Potter
  • OrleckOrleck Joined: Posts: 1
    I've been doing a lot of wood craft work and read a lot of tutorials. This is both well explained in great detail while still be concise, which is not an easy thing to do.


    Questions:

    I browsed the comments so Im not sure if you answered this, but...

    1. After the 5 thin coat passes with the clear coat, as you go up the grits from 600, 1000, 1500, et cetera, are you applying those 5 thin coats between each wet-sanding? or are you just moving up the grits?


    2. you mention after a month applying a protective wax or something, could this be simple polyurethane? or is that job already done by the clear coat? Will the polyurethane disrupt the mirror-like finish? If so, do you know a protective wax product that has worked for you that you'd recommend?

    Thanks again for a fantastic tutorial, it was the first hit on google when I typed my question :)


    -Orleck
  • seraphimseraphim Joined: Posts: 2
    edited March 17
    I would like to do this type of paint job on a digital stage piano. I bought this Studiologic Numa Nero piano assuming it had a high gloss black finish as it once did. Turns out the manufacturer changed the finish to matte because the gloss was not holding up. When my piano arrived, it was matte and I was upset.

    Here is what I expected:


    product_numa_nero_02_2.jpg[img]This is what I got:[/img]20151212212523.jpg

    The plastic faring can be removed which would make painting easy. I just don't know how to go about painting this particular plastic material which is rather rough.






  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 21,584
    seraphim wrote: »
    I would like to do this type of paint job on a digital stage piano. I bought this Studiologic Numa Nero piano assuming it had a high gloss black finish as it once did. Turns out the manufacturer changed the finish to matte because the gloss was not holding up. When my piano arrived, it was matte and I was upset.

    Here is what I expected:

    https://dirigent.jp/product/product_numa_nero_02_2.jpg

    This is what I got:

    http://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/m/mitsuba64/20151212/20151212212523.jpg

    The plastic faring can be removed which would make painting easy. I just don't know how to go about painting this particular plastic material which is rather rough.

    That is great and all but why did you choose to post about Piano mods on a web forum about fighting games?

    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 778
    Maybe the Brook UFB is wired to the keys! But seriously now... matte finish on plastic is better for fingerprints (which kinda happens with a piano)

    If you want glossy.. get a Steinway ;-)
  • seraphimseraphim Joined: Posts: 2

    [/quote]

    That is great and all but why did you choose to post about Piano mods on a web forum about fighting games?

    [/quote]

    This thread topic is about painting a black mirror finish. I want to paint a black mirror finish. That's why. :)

    This thread is mentioned in a piano restoration forum. That's how I found it.

  • Evolution169Evolution169 Wake up DP is unbeatable Joined: Posts: 1,025
    seraphim wrote: »
    I would like to do this type of paint job on a digital stage piano. I bought this Studiologic Numa Nero piano assuming it had a high gloss black finish as it once did. Turns out the manufacturer changed the finish to matte because the gloss was not holding up. When my piano arrived, it was matte and I was upset.

    Here is what I expected:


    product_numa_nero_02_2.jpg[img]This is what I got:[/img]20151212212523.jpg

    The plastic faring can be removed which would make painting easy. I just don't know how to go about painting this particular plastic material which is rather rough.






    Whoa that thing is expensive. Is there no way for you to just return it and buy something that already has a gloss finish?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 21,584
    seraphim wrote: »

    That is great and all but why did you choose to post about Piano mods on a web forum about fighting games?

    This thread topic is about painting a black mirror finish. I want to paint a black mirror finish. That's why. :)

    This thread is mentioned in a piano restoration forum. That's how I found it.

    Still this is beyond the scope of what we do here.
    Also Black plastic does not take paint well unless you want to do ALOT of Prep work first.

    A return would be a better choice than to paint a brand new expressive Electronic keyboard.
    "You must defeat Sheng Long to stand a chance."
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