NEW Hori Fighting Stick VX (360) & V3 (PS3) Thread

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  • alainveyalainvey Joined: Posts: 290
    Actually, mounting it Laugh's way gives you exactly 24mm of shaft height. Mounting it with the plate gives 22.5mm.

    22.5mm is the standard on Mad Catz and Hori RAP sticks, which means slagcoin is technically out of date on this point.

    I'm actually preferring the higher 24mm mounting.
  • timelapse510timelapse510 Joined: Posts: 3
    anyone else having trouble dual modding the v3? I have the buttons all great and set up but cant for the life of me get the joystick working properly
  • mr.mortifiedmr.mortified A man behind a desk Joined: Posts: 3,044
    You're gonna have to provide more information that that if you want any help.
    Pictures, rationale, solder points used. anything.

    Give more effort in the question you ask, you'll get more effort on the answer you get in return.
    follow me on twitter @mr_mortified
    I need dat twitter PSR
  • daicondaicon Joined: Posts: 140
    edited July 2013
    I got a few questions:

    1) How simple is it to set custom art into this and what would I need to be able to do that?

    2) Will I need to drill any holes to seat a sanwa JLF or Seimitsu into it?

    3) Someone said it's not a perfect Viewlix layout, what's different exactly?

    4) Does the metal panel (where you snap in buttons) come out at all? Assuming it's metal.

    thanks, sorry if some of these have been asked before

    Post edited by daicon on
  • gahrlinggahrling Better safe than Hori.. Joined: Posts: 3,968
    daicon wrote: »
    Will I need to drill any holes to seat a sanwa JLF or Seimitsu into it?


    Sanwa JLF with mounting plate can be installed in the 4 holes provided in the case, however you will need to find your own screws for it. You will also need to solder or crimp wires from the joystick to the stock pcb if you're not gonna change it. I'm not sure if any of the Seimitsu sticks will fit as the case is so shallow, it barely fits a JLF as it is. Someone else may be able to provide more insight here.
  • theBAYsicstheBAYsics '93 til infinity Joined: Posts: 646
    edited August 2013
    hey guys maybe someone can help me out. can someone identify for me the P1-P4 Leds and VCC on the daughterboard of a hori vx?

    made this wiring diagram pic for anybody who may need it in the future. i'll update it with vcc and p1-p4 leds when i figure them out.

    i0z2Fmb6fndjV.jpg

    edit: i figured it out.
    Post edited by theBAYsics on
  • daicondaicon Joined: Posts: 140
    About the top turbo panel..

    If you unscrew it and take it out and apart, is it possible to reassemble it again easy enough?

    I'm interested in painting the L, R, Start, etc a certain color and maybe even the turbo sliders.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 24,292
    Theoretically yes, just take notes on how it comes apart.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • daicondaicon Joined: Posts: 140
    Does anyone know if the shaft cover on the V3 or VX's stock stick fits on a JLF shaft?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 24,292
    Nope, the measurements are not the same

    I forgot if the JLF shaft be too loose or too tight
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • alainveyalainvey Joined: Posts: 290
    The shaft cover is actually too short for a JLF - the other dimensions are fine.
  • killvhinkillvhin Joined: Posts: 15
    edited September 2013
    Hello, this is my first attempt in modding, and I'm noob when it comes to wires. I'm getting dizzy and confused on all the information here, but it's really informative. I've learned on what i have to do to change the buttons and stick. Can someone please give me a complete list, on what materials i needed,. i know all is here. But since i will find all the parts in the mall. i need a LIST like for ex. how many QD i need, size, wire harness? i really don't know the proper name of all materials involved here. What i mean is like a complete ingredients like in cooking a particular dish. I REALLY APPRECIATE all the post here, and i've read them all. It's just like I'm getting confused on all the infos. Can i also asked/request for a short step by step instruction from start till finish, am i asking too much?? I;m really sorry. I'm on a tight budget and needs to be quite sure on what i will do, and i don't wanna mess my VORTEX setup (jk lol) my first stick. KUDOS!! more power and thankss!!

    BTW the setup i want is quick disconnects, and i dont wanna mess with the sticks main board by soldering directly.
  • alainveyalainvey Joined: Posts: 290
    Hey there and welcome. Yes, I had to reread this entire thread recently, so I know where you're coming from about the information being scattered about.

    You can install a JLF or a couple of models of Seimitsu sticks in the V3, but for simplicity's sake I'll assume you want to install a Sanwa JLF and buttons. I will also assume you have no soldering knowledge or real technical skill (like me), and so I should warn you this will not be the prettiest method.

    For that, you'll need:

    1 x JLF

    6 x Buttons (Sanwa OBSF snap ins are recommended)

    1 x JLF-H or similar joystick 5-pin harness

    12 x Quick disconnects (2.8mm). More is strongly recommended because you will likely mess a few up

    1 x Crimping tool (you can also solder, which is great, or just mash the QDs on with pliers, but this is not recommended at all)

    4 x Screws (I forget which diameter, but basically you need shorter versions of the ones used to secure the stock Hori joystick)

    You will probably also need the following:

    1 x Quantity of 22-26 AWG stranded wire (thicker (lower number) might be easier)

    1 x Wire cutters / strippers

    1 x 5 point screw terminal

    1 x 7 point screw terminal

    1 x Roll of electrical tape


    Buttons:

    If you don't have a soldering iron then your best bet is to cut the button pcb into bits so you can remove the stock buttons. First, cut the ribbon cable that connects the button pcb to the main pcb as close as possible to the button pcb (i.e. leaving as much ribbon cable as possible.

    Now just get the pcb board off the buttons in whatever way you can. I suggest cutting the bulk away with scissors, enough so that you can remove the buttons successfully.

    Now snap in your new buttons.

    You will need to search for a pinout of the V3 board to work out what wire in the ribbon cable does what. There are 7 wires, 1 of which is ground. You need to connect the other 6 to the appropriate buttons (i.e. X, Y, R1 etc.), and the ground has to be connected to all of them.

    Please read up on how to crimp, etc. for help with that. To connect the ground to every button, you should make a "daisy chain" of quick disconnects - look this up too.

    You might find that the ribbon cable is not long enough to reach the buttons. If this is the case, then you'll need to use a screw terminal block (recommended) or splice new wires onto the existing ones.


    Joystick:

    To remove the joystick, just unscrew the balltop (use a flathead driver in the base of the shaft if needed) and then remove the four screws you can see securing the joystick housing to the case. Cut or desolder the wires from the joystick as closely as is possible to the microswitches.

    The next bit is best described in Laugh's Paewang/Mayflash modding tutorial, which can be found in the tutorials sticky (seriously, the steps for the joystick are exactly the same), but I will summarise it here.

    Ok, now take the JLF, turn it upside down and remove the gate (clear plastic thing) by pressing the four clips. Now, the pcb with microswitches attached can be removed easily - do that. Note: you might have to remove the e-clip from the joystick shaft first, but I can't remember...

    Underneath where the pcb was, you will see four shallow "posts" with a hole in (about 1.5mm high), which correspond in position to the screw holes in the case where the original joystick was mounted. These holes are what you will use to screw the JLF onto the case.

    However, you have to remove the shallow posts first, or the screws will prevent you from putting the joystick back together.

    So, use a craft knife to carefully slice off these posts until flush with the rest of the surrounding area.

    Now, line up the holes with the ones one the case, and screw the JLF in place. Replace the pcb and gate (and reassemble shaft/e-clip if that step was necessary.

    Ok, now you just need to wire up the stick. If you found a button pinout for the V3 pcb then you should also have a stick pinout.

    To wire up the stick, you just need to connect the UDLR and 1 ground wires from the main pcb to a screw terminal, and then connect the 5-pin harness to the other side of the screw terminal. Plug the 5-pin end into the JLF. You can also look up a JLF pinout to help you work out which wire does what, but you can also just use trial and error until your stick works as expected.


    Hope that helps, sorry it's not a comprehensive guide with images - hopefully having all the info and steps in one post will help you out at least.

    Also, if in doubt, just post here again rather than trying to guess stuff!

    If all this sounds like too much then just get a TE or similar when they're on sale - much better.

    Post pics when finished, and good luck.




  • killvhinkillvhin Joined: Posts: 15
    OMG thank you so much for this, i appreciate your help!!! I'll post after i've mod my stick successfully, You're so kind sir, thanks a lot!!!!
  • NENDONENDO I will meditate and then destroy you. Joined: Posts: 3,352
    edited September 2013
    killvhin wrote: »
    Hello, this is my first attempt in modding, and I'm noob when it comes to wires. I'm getting dizzy and confused on all the information here, but it's really informative. I've learned on what i have to do to change the buttons and stick. Can someone please give me a complete list, on what materials i needed,. i know all is here. But since i will find all the parts in the mall. i need a LIST like for ex. how many QD i need, size, wire harness? i really don't know the proper name of all materials involved here. What i mean is like a complete ingredients like in cooking a particular dish. I REALLY APPRECIATE all the post here, and i've read them all. It's just like I'm getting confused on all the infos. Can i also asked/request for a short step by step instruction from start till finish, am i asking too much?? I;m really sorry. I'm on a tight budget and needs to be quite sure on what i will do, and i don't wanna mess my VORTEX setup (jk lol) my first stick. KUDOS!! more power and thankss!!

    BTW the setup i want is quick disconnects, and i dont wanna mess with the sticks main board by soldering directly.

    The button bodies are pretty identical to Sanwa OBSF. You can actually just swap in some Sanwa microswitches and save yourself some dough. I'm going to be doing an FS3 build soon myself. I need a compact, dual-modded stick for travel reasons. Im using the stock buttons with Sanwa switches, a JLF with a Link, and a PS360+. Good luck, buddy!
  • killvhinkillvhin Joined: Posts: 15
    "The JLF was installed without the mounting plate (so I can get the correct mounting height), and I chose to slice down the main JLF body instead of drilling through the restrictor plate like some people prefer. The microswitch PCB still fits right over the screws, and I can swap out my restrictor plate without having to unscrew the entire unit."


    I think this is different from what LAUghs paewang mod? because he has a picture of these in early thread and it looks like he trims the 2 sides of the body? is this what you meant when you said

    "So, use a craft knife to carefully slice off these posts until flush with the rest of the surrounding area."[/i]

    Am i right? thankss!!
















  • killvhinkillvhin Joined: Posts: 15

    To wire up the stick, you just need to connect the UDLR and 1 ground wires from the main pcb to a screw terminal, and then connect the 5-pin harness to the other side of the screw terminal. Plug the 5-pin end into the JLF. You can also look up a JLF pinout to help you work out which wire does what, but you can also just use trial and error until your stick works as expected.



    I'm confused in this process sorry hehehe, in the other posts it seems that they didn't go to the process of using screw terminal, Can u please elaborate more cleary? or did they just wired it just like in the buttons, using QDs also?? thank you so much
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 24,292
    or you can use a Multi-meter and probe out what each wire would do.

    Alot of steps or info is skipped when guides, How-tos or manuals are written.
    Look in ANY automobile manual, the writer of the manual assumes the reader is at least at journeyman's level of competence in auto mechanics.

    Unfortunately for newbies, the same thing (although not as server) happens in tech talk.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • alainveyalainvey Joined: Posts: 290
    Follow Laugh's guide - the only modification to the JLF that is needed is trimming the posts. Slicing off bits like the "wings", or drilling through the restrictor plate are all unnecessary.

    About the joystick wiring: the stock hori stick has wires directly soldered to the microswitches (8, one signal and one ground for each direction). JLFs normally come with a microswitch/pcb assembly that has a 5 pin connector (4 signals and one common ground).

    The JLF model with the pcb is the JLF-TP-8YT, while you can also get a version which just has bare microswitches like the stock Hori, called the JLF-TM-8YT.

    If you get the TM version, which is the one Laugh is using in his guide, you can just crimp on QDs (4.8mm ones this time) to the existing wires and hook up like the stock stick.

    Since you're more likely to get the TP version, that's why I suggested the screw terminals.

    Hope this makes sense, keep asking questions if you need to, since I'd hate for you to make a mistake based on my sloppy guide.

    As Darksakul said, a multimeter is a good plan. I was banking on you not having one, however.
  • CorrezZioCorrezZio Joined: Posts: 26
    Repost from the questions thread, because I didn't know about this one, heh...

    Hey there,

    I have a question for some of the more technical posters here concerning my current arcade stick, a Hori HRAP VX-SA. Recently I bought a wired gaming headset in the form of a Sennheiser X320, to get more used to tourney set-ups, but I've ran into a problem, when using the VX's headphone jack for xbl chats etc, my voice is barely audible when shouting into the mic, and is full of static noise (I've tested this by recording short messages and playing them back), but the playback is fine though.

    I have a feeling my headphone jack or some wiring may be busted, as the headset works fine with both default Xbox pad's and 2 MadCatz sticks I have laying around.

    Is there any way to replace the jack/wiring without placing an entirely new PCB in there?

    Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
    Thor/Strange/Dante

    XBL: CorrezZio
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,535
    @CorrezZio
    Wrong thread, this is the thread about the Fighting Stick VX, not the HRAP VX.
    I haven't played with the PCB of the HRAP VX, but I believe it's similar to the FS VX anyways, and the headset port is on its own mini-pcb. You might be able to find a replacement for that, but I wouldn't be sure where to find one. Maybe the one for the PS360+ would work? You'll have to look into that yourself.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • CorrezZioCorrezZio Joined: Posts: 26
    Ah, my bad.

    Thanks for your help so far though, I've gotten my hands on another HRAP in the meantime though, same problem, guess I'm gonna have to research further.

    Thanks anyway.
    Thor/Strange/Dante

    XBL: CorrezZio
  • mr.mortifiedmr.mortified A man behind a desk Joined: Posts: 3,044
    edited September 2013
    Does anyone still have the .pdf template for this stick? I had it on my hard drive archived but its dead now :(

    Never mind, I re-did one. I'll post the .psd soon
    Post edited by mr.mortified on
    follow me on twitter @mr_mortified
    I need dat twitter PSR
  • killvhinkillvhin Joined: Posts: 15
    Thanks for the help guys, But i got a few questions more. I've found a diagram guide for color coding for the JLF-TP-8YT the one which has the 5 switch connector, the question is the sanwa harness wires doesn't seems to match the color order in the diagram. The diagram also points out that the color changes whenever you changed the position of the switch connector? Does it means that the color of wires in the harness is interchangeable? It seems confusing hehehe.

    One more question, in HORI's stock joystick each microswitch have 2 wires with the same color, eg. 2 yellow, 2 reds, my question is can i treat any one of each wire of the same color the ground one? hope you guys understand my questions, thanks a lot!!!
  • killvhinkillvhin Joined: Posts: 15
    The only available stick now in my area is Original Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Joystick and according to Darksakul on start of these thread, this type of sanwa JLF isn't suitable for the Vx/V3? any clarifications please.. thankss!!!
  • homerjwhohomerjwho Prism Ranger Red Joined: Posts: 84
    killvhin wrote: »
    The only available stick now in my area is Original Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Joystick and according to Darksakul on start of these thread, this type of sanwa JLF isn't suitable for the Vx/V3? any clarifications please.. thankss!!!

    I think the JLF-TP-8YT-SK is just the JLF-TP-8YT with a shaft cover, so you should be able to get that and just remove the cover. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong though!
  • alainveyalainvey Joined: Posts: 290
    edited September 2013
    Yes, SK just denotes the presence of a shaft cover.

    That model of JLF is fine. If you mount it the way Laugh does, it will sit at 24mm, which is at the upper end of the standard mounting height specified on the slagcoin website. You can also mount it using the mounting plate and the corresponding screw holes in the case - this will mount it closer to the TE/HRAP standard of 22.5mm, but the shaft will most likely grind on the bottom of the case.

    To reassure you, I have the SK model currently installed using the Laugh method, and it's fine.

    Regarding the joystick harness, you can always check with a multimeter, or by just looking at the traces on the pcb. The confusion that you're reading about just relates to the fact that if you rotate the microswitch pcb, the pinouts for the directions will change (because, e.g., the microswitch that used to trigger the up direction would now have been moved to another direction).

    In short, there's nothing to worry about, and you won't actually damage anything.

    Re the hori joystick wires, I believe it does matter which you use for ground and which for signal, unlike the buttons. Again, you will not damage anything simply by experimenting, and I'm not ashamed to admit that I just swapped the wires around till everything worked.
  • mr.mortifiedmr.mortified A man behind a desk Joined: Posts: 3,044
    JoystickWiringGuide.jpg

    follow me on twitter @mr_mortified
    I need dat twitter PSR
  • mr.mortifiedmr.mortified A man behind a desk Joined: Posts: 3,044
    Also here's the art PSD for that stick as well. http://www.mediafire.com/?ds1ytds550wl84n
    follow me on twitter @mr_mortified
    I need dat twitter PSR
  • killvhinkillvhin Joined: Posts: 15
    edited September 2013
    Ok thanks a lot for the help, I'll certainly post after i mod my stick. KUDOS to the BEAST, best RYU i've seen. outstanding footsies, excellent Anti air and control of spacing against the best Akuma in the world GOD LIKE!!! hehehe
  • theBAYsicstheBAYsics '93 til infinity Joined: Posts: 646
    edited December 2013
    anybody have the wiring diagram for the turbo panel on the hori v3? (ps3)

    edit: nvm, figured it out.
    Post edited by theBAYsics on
  • quadreonquadreon Joined: Posts: 1
    This is my first time posting so please excuse me if I ask something completely obvious

    If I want to just mod the buttons with Sanwa, could I just desoldered the hori buttons from the PCB, replace them with the Sanwa and solder that to the PCB
  • dejdej Joined: Posts: 460
    edited December 2013
    quadreon wrote: »
    This is my first time posting so please excuse me if I ask something completely obvious

    If I want to just mod the buttons with Sanwa, could I just desoldered the hori buttons from the PCB, replace them with the Sanwa and solder that to the PCB

    e/ im dumb and uneducated, igore this
    Post edited by dej on
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,535
    quadreon wrote: »
    This is my first time posting so please excuse me if I ask something completely obvious

    If I want to just mod the buttons with Sanwa, could I just desoldered the hori buttons from the PCB, replace them with the Sanwa and solder that to the PCB
    In theory, yes.
    However, note that the stock Hori buttons have pin-like connectors, and Sanwas have 0.110" flat connectors. The Sanwa buttons won't fit through the holes on the PCB that the stock Hori buttons go through.
    The stock PCB that they're soldered to is just an extension anyways; you're better off snipping that all off and putting in new wires with quick disconnects instead.

    dej wrote: »
    the buttons should be connected by quick disconnects, which means you use the same cables to connect to the sanwa buttons instead

    like, you unplug button, pop it out, replace it with a sanwa, uses same cable so no need to solder or anything. i think the fighting edge have different buttons but i dont think that should matter
    Nope, that is incorrect. The Fighting Stick VX/V3 doesn't have quick disconnects. The HRAP series do, but not the lower-end Fighting Stick series. The FS VX/V3 have the Hori buttons soldered to a PCB.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • MuffinMan123MuffinMan123 Joined: Posts: 93
    having problem with my fight stick v3 right now. starting this month, I found out that my arcade stick is having trouble registering pressing 2 buttons at the same time and is always doing (A then A+B) instead of (A+B) right away. the buttons do feel harder to press than before, and I am wondering if I should open it up to clean it or just buy new buttons from ebay.

    been wondering whether I should mod this stick or buy a hori/madcatz stick that uses real sanwa parts. now that ps4 coming out I have less and less motivation to buy a brand new fight stick and isntead just want to mod it, but hori has plastic shell so the threading for the screws will loosen if I try modding it too many times. not to mention buying the parts separately will eventually stack up the cost quite a bit. considering the time spent I am wondering if buying a brand new stick will be the better choice.

    is it even possible to get a TE or HRARP for 100 bucks?
  • MuffinMan123MuffinMan123 Joined: Posts: 93
    edited March 2014
    just wondering, how do you guys change the artwork for arcade sticks? I don't really need any artwork, I just need a replace the sticker piece because it's too scratched up. what kind of plate do you buy and what kind of adhesives do you use?
  • uncleaneruncleaner Joined: Posts: 36
    just wondering, how do you guys change the artwork for arcade sticks? I don't really need any artwork, I just need a replace the sticker piece because it's too scratched up. what kind of plate do you buy and what kind of adhesives do you use?
    Print your art on thick paper card stock and lani label it. The glue doesn't really matter in my experience, I've always just used a glue stick.
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 24,292
    I prefer an aerosol spray on glue.
    Spray it on the panel and not the print.

    The Art should stick down kinda like a Post-it note, but with a stronger hold that suitable for the thicker material.
    Glue Stick is a horrible choice, I don't even use a glue stick on construction paper.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • beatificallybeatifically Joined: Posts: 48
    edited April 2014
    Is the 8pin connector on the pcb for the joystick common ground? I saw in the stickies that the hori fighting stick v3 is common ground, but wasn't sure if it applied to the joystick connections on the pcb
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,535
    @beatifically‌
    It's all common ground.
    The 8-pin connector for the joystick just has duplicates of all the ground signals.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
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