NEW Hori Fighting Stick VX (360) & V3 (PS3) Thread

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  • MekkakatMekkakat Joined: Posts: 2
    Hey guys - new to fightsticks here (analog stick user for years). I seriously suck ass with my new V3, but I still love it oddly enough. I really, really, really hate the feel of the square gate... but I refuse to give up! I've been playing SF for years and want to finally play legit lol.


    My question is:

    In the future I'd like to mod the look of my stick. I'm a bit of a visual guy, so it's actually more for the cool factor, but I might as well use nice parts. From what I've read, the OSB30 Sanwa buttons go in with a little sanding, correct? Is there an easier, better button, or is that the go-to?

    I would also like a matching (color) ball top. What top can I get that should just screw right on in place of the existing Hori ball top? I don't really want to replace the entire stick if possible.


    I really appreciate any answers. I'm thinking of basically just going black and white (buttons/top). Simple and clean. Thanks!
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    Mekkakat wrote: »
    From what I've read, the OSB30 Sanwa buttons go in with a little sanding, correct? Is there an easier, better button, or is that the go-to?

    I would also like a matching (color) ball top. What top can I get that should just screw right on in place of the existing Hori ball top? I don't really want to replace the entire stick if possible.
    1) OBSF-30s need the little notch/tab thinggie under the rim to fit properly. Otherwise, they grind too tightly.

    2) Any Sanwa/Seimitsu balltop will fit the existing shaft of the stock Hori stick in the Fighting Stick VX/V3.

    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • MekkakatMekkakat Joined: Posts: 2
    1) OBSF-30s need the little notch/tab thinggie under the rim to fit properly. Otherwise, they grind too tightly.

    2) Any Sanwa/Seimitsu balltop will fit the existing shaft of the stock Hori stick in the Fighting Stick VX/V3.

    Fast, efficient, perfect answer - thank you!


    Side question - If you (or anyone else) were to buy buttons/tops, where in your experience has been a good place to shop? Whether price or service, I'm just curious. I was looking on a site called focusattack.com - and they seemed pretty fair in price. Then again... I have no idea what fair is haha.

  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    Both paradisearcadeshop.com and focusattack.com are very recommended sites to order from.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • YoungBl00dYoungBl00d Joined: Posts: 5
    Hey everyone. First time post and mod. Was very happy with the result, except the air bubbles, but that I can live with. Went with JLF, OBSFS buttons and eBay CF wrap. Link for full album

    ukQXonB.jpg?1
    XeQpPgC.jpg?2
    Thanks to all the helpful posters in this thread!
  • Sith_ProbeSith_Probe Joined: Posts: 38
    Looks pretty clean Youngblood. I don't know mods to well, but I'd say that's an excellent first pass! :)
  • YoungBl00dYoungBl00d Joined: Posts: 5
    Sith_Probe wrote: »
    Looks pretty clean Youngblood. I don't know mods to well, but I'd say that's an excellent first pass! :)

    Thanks! I really appreciate it.

    Also forgot to mention, the JLF is mounted using Laugh's method (slicing down body, new screws -> self tapping 4x12mm)
  • MuffinMan123MuffinMan123 Joined: Posts: 93
    YoungBl00d wrote: »
    XeQpPgC.jpg?2
    wait, which wire connects to which again for the JLF? which one is the ground?

    from this picture, it looks like if I am to look from the bottom of the stick, the 1st of the color pair is the ground, is that right?
    theBAYsics wrote: »
    i0z2Fmb6fndjV.jpg
    is this the same for both v3 and vx version?

    so if I just want to put in my own L1 L2 button, I just use need to extend those 2 wires and the ground, right?
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    The FSVX and V3 have different PCBs and pinouts. The wiring WILL be different.


    The FSVX's joystick wiring is as follows:
    (From top to bottom)
    Ground
    Ground
    Ground
    Down
    Up
    Left
    Right
    Ground

    ----

    This is no different for the sub-PCB; the FS V3 and VX have slightly different sub-PCBs.
    You'd be best following the traces for those two buttons.

    But the rest of your train of though is correct: extend those two wires (and an accompanying Ground signal) to a separate button, and voilà!
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • MuffinMan123MuffinMan123 Joined: Posts: 93
    edited May 2014
    so what is the layout for ps3 pcb's? my biggest problem when I tried to trace the joystick part connection is that I couldn't see where the ground wire goes

    and the top bar looks even more confusing to me, I do circuits mostly on breadboard, so looking at printed circuit board is troublesome for me.

    also, does this wiring guide still applies? I remember marking down the up down left right on the pcb itself, but I don't know the order of the jlf-h harness
    JoystickWiringGuide.jpg
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    Yep, that pinout is still good; you're just connecting wires. As long as you follow your JLF's orientation, and the correct pins on the PCB, you're ok.

    Use a multimeter to check for continuity from contacts to pins. That way, you won't need to follow the traces directly.
    If you don't have a multimeter, something that I used to use in a pinch was a couple of wires hooked up to a battery+resistor+LED. Use the loose ends of the wires to touch contact points. If the LED lit up, you have continuity.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • MuffinMan123MuffinMan123 Joined: Posts: 93
    just to be certain, the ground trace on the pcb doesn't have the resisters connecting to the chip right? I couldn't see where the grounds go so I assume the ones with resisters are the ones where the switch wires should connect to.
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    @MuffinMan123‌
    Not sure. It's hard to go off of the description you're giving; you should either use a multimeter to test (I cannot stress this enough) or post a clear picture of what you're referring to.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • MuffinMan123MuffinMan123 Joined: Posts: 93
    edited May 2014
    traced the top circuit board, after you open the case, you see lables for gnd, pc1 and pc2
    pc1 is L2
    pc2 is L1

    gnd is ground obviously.

    if you use the stock jlf mounting plate, the stick will have the same height as madcatz stick, and the stick rod will rub against the bottom of the case. it's not that bad though, so far it doesn't affect inputs, I think after a few games it will scratch out enough and fix the problem by itself.

    no the money to buy the quick disconnects and stuff, so the entire modding is done with just wires, solder, and electric tape

    I also kept the 6 button board because it makes wiring the buttons much easier.

    btw, is there any way to change the wires for the hori's joystick connector without breaking it? the wire quality is so bad that I thought it would break if I mess with it too much.

    the surface is a kitchen mat bought from dollar store and glued to the metal plate using weldbond,
    WARNING, it looks really disgusting, make sure your eyes are ready for it

    QroD3Bv.jpg
    wAk8WYZ.jpg
    x2ozE6d.jpg
    Post edited by MuffinMan123 on
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    edited May 2014
    Congrats on finally getting all your mods done!
    if you use the stock jlf mounting plate, the stick will have the same height as madcatz stick, and the stick rod will rub against the bottom of the case. it's not that bad though, so far it doesn't affect inputs, I think after a few games it will scratch out enough and fix the problem by itself.
    Maybe, but if you plan to keep it like that, your best bet is to grind down the bottom part of the casing right under the joystick, to ensure that you have enough clearance. It won't grind itself down smoothly enough, I'll tell you that much.
    no the money to buy the quick disconnects and stuff, so the entire modding is done with just wires, solder, and electric tape
    Not using QDs is fine; some people prefer the to solder, though that doesn't give you the flexibility to easily switch things out later on if you need/want to.
    I would've recommended to just get rid of the 6-button daughter-board, and solder your wires from the buttons directly to the PCB in the lower-right.
    I will, however, recommend against using electrical tape; it WILL unstick itself in the long run. Your best bet is to just pick up some heat shrink. You don't even need a heat gun to shrink it; just use a lighter or a match under it.
    btw, is there any way to change the wires for the hori's joystick connector? the wire quality is so bad that I thought it would break if I mess with it too much.
    The only way would be to re-crimp new wire for the header. But yes, the stock wires are very cheap.
    the surface is a kitchen mat bought from dollar store and glued to the metal plate using weldbond
    Yeah, I gotta admit, that does look pretty bad. :)
    If anything, you should've just picked up some self-adhesive vinyl wrap, and wrap the whole thing, and pierce holes for the screws so that the entire metal panel is covered.
    You now have some exposed sections which is not good because a) it'll eventually rust, and b) you're opening your stick up to electrostatic damage (I've static-shocked my FSVX in the past through the edge of the metal panel; I believe it damaged a PCB in the process).
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • MuffinMan123MuffinMan123 Joined: Posts: 93
    edited May 2014
    the plate is steel isn't it? even if it rusts, you can easily remove it

    I didn't use any plastic wrap because I like the surface of the kitchen mat. it's really comfortable and I want to feel that when I use my stick.
    if I have the money I'd get plexi glass, but I don't have the tools to replicate the plate right now.

    I suppose I could always tape up those loose corners, I will try it right now
    Post edited by MuffinMan123 on
  • Quinn95Quinn95 Joined: Posts: 7
    So I bought 6 sanwa buttons and a JLF from Focus Attack and got them today. I removed the buttons from my VX and put the new ones in and realized I wasn't sure on how to wire them. I have quick disconnects and was planning on soldering 2 wires directly to the buttons and then using a QD to connect it to the wire coming off of the motherboard. Is this a good way to do it or should I order the QD specifically for the buttons from FA?
  • YoungBl00dYoungBl00d Joined: Posts: 5
    Quinn95 wrote: »
    So I bought 6 sanwa buttons and a JLF from Focus Attack and got them today. I removed the buttons from my VX and put the new ones in and realized I wasn't sure on how to wire them. I have quick disconnects and was planning on soldering 2 wires directly to the buttons and then using a QD to connect it to the wire coming off of the motherboard. Is this a good way to do it or should I order the QD specifically for the buttons from FA?

    Most people, myself included, have QD's attaching to the buttons and splice that to the wires coming from the PCB, after removing the button PCB. This makes it much easier to remove or change the buttons
  • Quinn95Quinn95 Joined: Posts: 7
    Okay thanks. I guess buy some...

    I have another question though. I noticed the JLF has a common ground but the stock stick has a ground for each switch. How do I wire the four JLF wires? Also a labeled diagram of the VX would be great if anyone has it. I've searched a lot.
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    edited May 2014
    Quinn95 wrote: »
    So I bought 6 sanwa buttons and a JLF from Focus Attack and got them today. I removed the buttons from my VX and put the new ones in and realized I wasn't sure on how to wire them. I have quick disconnects and was planning on soldering 2 wires directly to the buttons and then using a QD to connect it to the wire coming off of the motherboard. Is this a good way to do it or should I order the QD specifically for the buttons from FA?
    No.
    The recommended method is to:
    1) crimp your wire to the QD as normal
    2) solder the other end of the wire either:
    - - - - spliced to the existing button-sub-PCB
    - - - - or the sub-PCB's wire-ribbon after you've cut it
    - - - - or directly to the main PCB.
    3) connect the QD to your buttons as normal

    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    edited May 2014
    Quinn95 wrote: »
    I have another question though. I noticed the JLF has a common ground but the stock stick has a ground for each switch. How do I wire the four JLF wires? Also a labeled diagram of the VX would be great if anyone has it. I've searched a lot.
    Pick a ground, any ground.

    Most of the contacts on the main PCB are labeled on one side or the other, like the buttons.

    For the FSVX:
    Joystick pinout, it's like I posted on the previous page:
    (From top to bottom)
    
    Ground
    Ground
    Ground
    Down
    Up
    Left
    Right
    Ground
    

    USB pinout:
    (From top to bottom)
    
    Vcc
    D+
    D-
    Ground
    Ground
    

    Home/Start/Back
    smaller ribbon cable from top PCB
    (From top to bottom)
    
    blah
    blah
    blah
    blah
    blah
    LB (duplicate)
    RB (duplicate)
    Home
    Start
    Back
    

    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • DEZALBDEZALB "Yamazaki Nigari" Joined: Posts: 610
    quick question, what button layout do these sticks use?
  • RichterRichter ~~~00~~~ Joined: Posts: 1,881
    It resembles an Astro City 2P side button layout but, the spacing is slightly different IIRC.
    coffee.gifapplaud.gifkarate.gifthumbsup.gifwtf.gifpray.gifsmokin.gifparty.gifcool2.gifchinasmile.gifnunchuck.gifsad.gifeek.pngmad.pngcybot.gif
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,875
    edited May 2014
    I though it was a vewlix layout , but i can be wrong
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    edited May 2014
    @Rictorxix‌
    That's incorrect.
    @Darksakul‌ is right. It's actually the Vewlix layout, although the button holes in relation to the joystick hole is off by a few millimeters.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,875
    I think because at this point Hori no longer has the Vewlix license, they set there layout to be slightly off.
    Same how the Mad Catz and Razer version of the layout is slightly off.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • RichterRichter ~~~00~~~ Joined: Posts: 1,881
    edited May 2014
    -
    coffee.gifapplaud.gifkarate.gifthumbsup.gifwtf.gifpray.gifsmokin.gifparty.gifcool2.gifchinasmile.gifnunchuck.gifsad.gifeek.pngmad.pngcybot.gif
  • DEZALBDEZALB "Yamazaki Nigari" Joined: Posts: 610
    thanks alot guys. im off when it comes to layouts lol
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,875
    edited May 2014
    Oh I just remember something about Hori naming schemes

    FS = Fighting Stick, used often in non-premium or budget sticks (used in front)
    RAP = Real Arcade Pro. Premium Line sticks (often used with the suffix Pro)

    W = Wireless

    First Digit
    V= Vewlix
    A = Astro
    N = Namco Noir

    Second Digit
    2 = PS2
    3 = PS3
    4 = PS4
    X \EX = Xbox 360
    (There not yet a stick announced for the XB1)

    Pro = Professional/Premium line (often seen together with the abbreviation R.A.P.)
    Pro are usually seen with premium parts such as Sanwa, Seimitsu or Hayabusa/Kuro Parts.

    SA= Sanwa
    SE= Seimitsu
    Hayabusa/Kuro parts are denounced with the Hayabusa kanji 隼

    Kai = Revised model or 2nd edition
    (In Japanese, Kai has a number of meanings, including "ocean" (海), "shell" (貝), "restoration" and "recovery.")

    So a FS V3 is a (6 button) stick with a Vewlix layout for the PS3. (the whole thread based on the FS V3 and FS VX)
    And the Hori Rap V3 Pro SA Kai is a (8 button) with a Vewlix layout for the PS3 stick with full Sanwa parts, 2nd or revised edition.
    1707512-hrap_3sa_w.jpg
    a Hori Rap 2 SA (A2 ?)

    hori-v3-fighting-stick.jpg
    Hori FS VX

    l_PS3%20Real%20Arcade%20Pro%20N3%20SA_002%20(2)%20copy.png
    Hori Rap N3

    hori-wireless-real-arcade-pro-v3-sa-310149.3.jpg
    Hori W Rap V3 Pro SA
    Post edited by Darksakul on
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • DEZALBDEZALB "Yamazaki Nigari" Joined: Posts: 610
    awesome info man, im a hori fan
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Kai = Revised model or 2nd edition
    (In Japanese, Kai has a number of meanings, including "ocean" (海), "shell" (貝), "restoration" and "recovery.")
    The definition is correct (revised, modified, etc), but while the pronounciation is identical, I don't think Hori has ever hinted at any other kanji being used other than the actual "改" that's used the HRAP VX/V3 Kai.

    Or are you just saying
    Kai ="改", not to be confused by Kai = "海" or "貝"

    In which case, I still agree with you. :D
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • Quinn95Quinn95 Joined: Posts: 7
    edited May 2014
    Before I place my (second) order from Focus Attack, I figured to check if my plan was adequate.

    So currently I have:
    A ton of 22 gauge wire.
    QD button connectors (two wire inputs, insulated) to connect a wire coming from the button to the wire attached to the motherboard
    A JLF
    6 Buttons (already in place)


    I got the buttons in, but realized my plan of soldering a wire to the buttons and then using a connector to attach it the the spliced ribbon wire might not be the best of plans, so now I'm going to order some Quick Disconnects from FA to attach a wire to the buttons and then use a butt connector to connect that wire to the spliced wire.

    My questions are basically: I need the .110' Quick connectors for the OBSF 30mm Sanwa buttons, correct? And also, do I need to use an insulator for the .110 quick connectors? From the picture they don't look insulated.

    Here's a link to the quick connectors if it helps my post make more sense.
    http://www.focusattack.com/110-quick-connector/
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,521
    @Quinn95‌
    Normally, unless you have lots of random open electronics loosely flailing around inside your case, QDs with insulation aren't really necessary.
    I started out using only insulated QDs, until I discovered I can pack my wiring A LOT tighter and neater with uninsulated ones. Never had a problem with them that way.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,875
    Darksakul wrote: »
    Kai = Revised model or 2nd edition
    (In Japanese, Kai has a number of meanings, including "ocean" (海), "shell" (貝), "restoration" and "recovery.")
    The definition is correct (revised, modified, etc), but while the pronounciation is identical, I don't think Hori has ever hinted at any other kanji being used other than the actual "改" that's used the HRAP VX/V3 Kai.

    Or are you just saying
    Kai ="改", not to be confused by Kai = "海" or "貝"

    In which case, I still agree with you. :D
    I was going off the use of Kai in Hori products names, and I am not knowledgeable of actual Kanji so I wanted to cover my bases.
    Quinn95 wrote: »
    Before I place my (second) order from Focus Attack, I figured to check if my plan was adequate.

    So currently I have:
    A ton of 22 gauge wire.
    QD button connectors (two wire inputs, insulated) to connect a wire coming from the button to the wire attached to the motherboard
    A JLF
    6 Buttons (already in place)


    I got the buttons in, but realized my plan of soldering a wire to the buttons and then using a connector to attach it the the spliced ribbon wire might not be the best of plans, so now I'm going to order some Quick Disconnects from FA to attach a wire to the buttons and then use a butt connector to connect that wire to the spliced wire.

    My questions are basically: I need the .110' Quick connectors for the OBSF 30mm Sanwa buttons, correct? And also, do I need to use an insulator for the .110 quick connectors? From the picture they don't look insulated.

    Here's a link to the quick connectors if it helps my post make more sense.
    http://www.focusattack.com/110-quick-connector/
    You don't need the insulate sleeves per-say but they give a better "presentation" and the extra insulation would not hurt.

    What I done in the past was taken some thermal shrink wrap where I wanted extra insulation and didn't care about who sees the wiring.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • Quinn95Quinn95 Joined: Posts: 7
    That would be THESE, right?

    And the .110 inch is the correct size for the Sanwa buttons?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,875
    edited May 2014
    Yes those plastic pieces and yes the .110 are the right size quick disconnects.

    I hope you got the pliers wire crimpers that would work with those quick disconnects.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • Quinn95Quinn95 Joined: Posts: 7
    edited May 2014
    I have a tool that works on the butt connectors, but they are just cylinders. Would it be terrible to use pliers?
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,875
    edited May 2014
    There are also this kind of quick disconnects
    female-quick-connect-110-insulated-.jpg
    http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/arcade-connectors/70-female-quick-connect-110-insulated-.html

    They come with their own insulators and your tool would work better with these.
    And they still come in the same sizes.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • jpolenjpolen Joined: Posts: 5
    I know this is a late post, but here's my mod for Hori V3 FS.
    - Original panel art from Boss Logic but I added spidey to complete my UMVC3 team.
    - Placed plexiglass on top of art and original metal plate is beneath it (sort of a sandwich).
    - Translucent Sanwa buttons with custom graphics and silencers.
    - Changed wiring to quick disconnects like everyone else.
    - Changed ball for translucent Seimitsu red balltop.

    Front panel
    ffRePnZ.jpg

    Wiring
    WaarQS0.jpg
  • Quinn95Quinn95 Joined: Posts: 7
    Alright I have one more question. In regard to the JLF, I am using Laugh's guide to mount it, but I'm not quite sure about what to cut off. I know it's the raised circular bit where the screws will go, but I'm wondering whether I can take off the prongs right next to the circular part. Here's a picture of what I mean: http://imgur.com/BjzyuD0

    I can't tell if those parts hold in the switches or not, and Laugh's guide doesn't really show or say anything about them. It would make removing the round parts really simple.
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