SF3LP, post: 3663526 wrote:
does anyone still have any problems with the stick as far as it disconnecting and not responding?
if so is there a way to fix this other than returning it?
Gummowned, post: 3663529 wrote:
oh wow....I just found out something about the ps3 t6 board and its not good news.
The buttons are active high. They all share the same line....the 3v coming from the batteries.
I think I'll just swap the ps3 t6 board with a sixaxis+ my Leo board .
Maledar, post: 3663527 wrote:
I own 2 of the 360 1 of the PS3.
The only problem I'll encounter is the random 360 auto-power off and then inputs not working.
However. The same thing happens with my 360 controllers. So it just leads me to believe it's a 360 problem.
No problems ever with the PS3.
TumTum, post: 3663540 wrote:
Finally finished modding this thing.
Cherry switches, sanwa octo -gate, sanwa spring, and sanwa buttons.
Kinda had and idea of a rorschach test with the art. Didn't quite come up with like it, but i still like it very much.
What do you think?
visionfreemind, post: 3663546 wrote:
So i found this stick(360) on Amazon used for like $47. I wanna buy it for my younger bro, so he doesnt have to have THE BEST of sticks but. Do you think for the price its all good and worth it? The only other thing is we play MVC2 endless.. I tried reading through alot of pages to see all the talk about the stock stick but, most talk was just of modding. So forgive me if this has ben asked before. Does MVC2 put to much of a beating on this stick?
Im playin right now on a MadCats SE that I just swapped out the insides with Sanwa parts. I think he would be fine with the square gate so you guys think its worth it for the price? Its the bundle pack. Thanks!
Gummowned, post: 3663524 wrote:
you would have to use microsoft's wireless receiver that was designed for using the wireless 360 controllers on pc. Although, I don't know if the 360 t6 would work for it.
Saikyo Joe, post: 3663554 wrote:
So whats up with modding the PS3 one? I was reading the modding the Xbox one, and kept reading that its different. Haven't gotten through the whole thread but if someone wants to direct me to it I'd be grateful.
00000000, post: 3663550 wrote:
BTW, I just bought the stick on Amazon. Warehouse deal (beat up box). Arrived to find that it was literally just that, a beat up box. T6, the stick, the book, everything was in mint, untouched condition. 48$ couldn't be beat.
wazwuz, post: 3663559 wrote:
i was planning to change the button only, its done, then i close the bottom case. and suddenly my stick not sending any signal, the usb receiver is still blinking, until now i still dont undestand whats going wrong, i think it was closed circuited. so i decided to remove all the button, stick, and board, for stick and button i use sanwa as usual. the for the board i use 6axis board, all works like a charm. i also ahnge the art paper ;). i love this arcade stick, its perfect for me ;) (light, compact, all sanwa, and its wirelles)
ps: sorry for my bad engllish, hope u understand :)
xxlopsidedxx, post: 3663552 wrote:
One of my buttons sometimes doesn't work when I press it on the Tekken 6 ps3 fighstick. Wondering if these was an easy fix or if I should just get a new stick. Thanks!
latexink, post: 3663570 wrote:
Just got my T6 Stick and thought I would show off how I fixed it. (after about 30 seconds of using it and not liking the feel) Be merciful as this is my first post here also.
I replaced the junk slopstick with a Seimitsu LS-33 and Sanwa OBSN-30/24 Buttons (Yes, back and start too):
And here's the money shot:
I epoxied the stick in place and had to dremel the bottom of the stick down for Clearance. Those buttons were murder on my fingers screwing down after dremeling the holes because I'm assuming the spacing is closer than usual on this stick and it was a tight fit.
Here's a better look at the strip so I can change the button layout when I change the artwork:
I just used a strip of old IDE cable which is great for cleaning up rats nests of wires like my first wiring up pictured below, which I wasn't happy with:
Lemme know what you think, as this is my first (of many I'm sure) real stick mods/fixes... Although I tend to do this kind of stuff with everything I own usually.
Also, what's a good place/price for getting some decent custom vinyl artwork printed out?
latexink, post: 3663572 wrote:
I didn't get a pic of before.. I was anxious to fix it :D The button PCBs are useless and easily desoldered... just keep a chunk of the wires on it so you can trace the leads to the buttons.
Here is the original order for the 360 stick button board in case you lose it...
Gummowned, post: 3663446 wrote:
Already way ahead of you.
(from top to bottom)
For the joystick:
(from right to left)
The group of wires to the left of the joystick wires:
(from right to left)
1-Vcc (3 volts)
(note: pins 2-5 go to a 4 pin header inside the battery compartment. I have no idea what its used for, maybe usb?)
The group of wires next to the previous group I didn't bother to figure out its pinout since its just the guide button, power for 4 leds, and ground. The brown wire is the guide signal.
The other 2 groups on the lower right part of the board is the sync button and the headphone/mic port.
djSTAT!C, post: 3663575 wrote:
ps.. have you figured out the wires to the group of wires to the left of the joystick?
i have a usb cable from a madcatz that im going to put it in to make it wired... (i know that its still going to be wireless, but i hate the wireless... how many times have i died in a g1 battle cuz of a "please reconnect controller" T____T)
i would appreciate it...
also, i transferred all of the parts to a separate MDF box that is 10x heavier so i have a hole for a wire in it already...
Gummowned, post: 3663577 wrote:
Still don't know what the wires are. You do run the risk of frying the pcb if you try hooking up the 5v line of the usb to one of those unknown spots since after-all they might not even be usb lines.