Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

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  • MTHoptonMTHopton Only killed a guy that one time Joined: Posts: 121
    So I managed to pick up a VSHG on the cheap, and as far as I can tell the only issue is the bottom panel being worn from use by the previous owner.

    My question is should I attempt to remove the rust and staining? If so, how would I go about it?
    PSN: Hoppersaysweeeee Steam: MTHopton
    GGXrd: Potemkin/Haehyun, SFV: Birdie
  • QuantumPrime_QuantumPrime_ NO MEAT BUNS, NO LIFE! Joined: Posts: 49
    This was very helpful, thank you
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,452
    MTHopton wrote: »
    So I managed to pick up a VSHG on the cheap, and as far as I can tell the only issue is the bottom panel being worn from use by the previous owner.

    My question is should I attempt to remove the rust and staining? If so, how would I go about it?

    Sand, paint if desired, clear coat.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • MTHoptonMTHopton Only killed a guy that one time Joined: Posts: 121
    MTHopton wrote: »
    So I managed to pick up a VSHG on the cheap, and as far as I can tell the only issue is the bottom panel being worn from use by the previous owner.

    My question is should I attempt to remove the rust and staining? If so, how would I go about it?

    Sand, paint if desired, clear coat.

    Thanks very much, will get on that as soon as it arrives.
    PSN: Hoppersaysweeeee Steam: MTHopton
    GGXrd: Potemkin/Haehyun, SFV: Birdie
  • skaloolaskaloola Joined: Posts: 172
    edited February 2015
    I bought a voltech case on here recently, it came with "voltechs universal mounting system" in a "Fanta config"..

    what do i need to get to install an Ls-40 or a JLF in there? mounting plates?

    also, how would I buy a replacement plexi with the right sized hole? will arts hobbies do this? I mean with matching dimensions, etc.

    let me know if pictures would help.

    also how do people usually mount their PCBs?
    I was thinking of velcro or rubber cement but are there less ghetto options?
  • kanadekanade Joined: Posts: 8
    Hey guys, apart from price difference and outer appearance I was wondering what is the real difference between HRAP V4 Hayabusa and the upcoming V (http://shoryuken.com/2015/01/20/hori-real-arcade-pro-v-for-playstation-4-and-playstation-3-now-up-for-pre-order/) for PS3/PS4.

    I was about to buy the former for my PS4 though I've just realized there's a "new" version coming out in late February. This is my first time buying Hori's RAP series and doing a little research about it confuses even more as there are various versions available with little to no differences when compared with each other.

  • LabanLaban KOF98 Player Joined: Posts: 2,558
    edited February 2015
    @kanade If you're looking at the V4 and not the 4 Kai, the V4 and V5 differences is that the case is a bit different. The Home Button and other functions are on the side of the stick rather on the top. There's also a supposed carrying handle now for the V5 so it's easier to lug around. Then there's a touch pad for whatever reason you need to have the PS4 touch pad on the stick. Personally, I'd rather get a V5/4 Kai (4 Kai being the Western, black color schemed release name for Asia's V5) over the Hori V4. Realistically, I'm going to wait out and see if Hori puts a Silent version of the V5/4 Kai out on the market if they ever do. I want the carrying handle, PS4 touch pad, optical PCB Hayabusa, silent buttons all together in one package.

    On a different tangent, I'm also going to wait out and see what Arcade Shock is revealing next month for their own in-house brand stick.

    But yeah, those are the main differences: Carrying Handle, Home Button and other buttons on the side rather than on top, and PS4 Touch Pad.

    Edit: I got a disagree. Was I wrong in my description somewhere?
    Post edited by Laban on
  • StoneAgeHeroStoneAgeHero Croatian One-Man FGC Joined: Posts: 61
    I have a Madcatz TES (SSFIV vesion) and just saw the sale on Capcom's site for the bags and am wondering if it will fit. The bag is the Capcom Arcade Pro Fight Stick Bag and the price is hard to pass up on.
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    I have a Madcatz TES (SSFIV vesion) and just saw the sale on Capcom's site for the bags and am wondering if it will fit. The bag is the Capcom Arcade Pro Fight Stick Bag and the price is hard to pass up on.

    "Designed to accommodate the Mad Catz® tournament edition FightStick" That's what you have but the S has smaller sides.

  • StoneAgeHeroStoneAgeHero Croatian One-Man FGC Joined: Posts: 61
    ^lol I read the features on the bottom of the page like 10 times and never noticed it in the text on top... Thanks :confounded:
  • buyproductbuyproduct Chemist for Hire Joined: Posts: 1,035
    I have a Madcatz TES (SSFIV vesion) and just saw the sale on Capcom's site for the bags and am wondering if it will fit. The bag is the Capcom Arcade Pro Fight Stick Bag and the price is hard to pass up on.

    I have this bag and carry my hitbox I made from a TE in it and it fits fine. Only problem I have with the bag is that it bulky and only has one strap (that is not long enough) that you kind of have to where it across your chest. Since I carry a hitbox and a stick to every tournament the one strap thing is a pain because it does not work like a messenger bag and does not let you were a backpack at the same time.
    "weekly 8 on the break tournaments >>> cali majors " skyet
    "Lol, the break is pretty serious when the real players show up, because everyone is a killer! " Dr. Chaos
    8 on the Break weekly thread: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=194801
  • C-SwordC-Sword Joined: Posts: 744
    Cannot use PS2 to USB converter on Windows 8. Any solutions?

  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,387
    C-Sword wrote: »
    Cannot use PS2 to USB converter on Windows 8. Any solutions?

    Drivers?
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • skaloolaskaloola Joined: Posts: 172
    skaloola wrote: »
    I bought a voltech case on here recently, it came with "voltechs universal mounting system" in a "Fanta config"..

    what do i need to get to install an Ls-40 or a JLF in there? mounting plates?

    also, how would I buy a replacement plexi with the right sized hole? will arts hobbies do this? I mean with matching dimensions, etc.

    let me know if pictures would help.

    Here are some pics: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jifdafkwqia0m1z/AADnwfl7zWFqZ46DNQSbFVW1a?dl=0

    sorry I'm kinda at a loss. I've spent the last few hours going through voltechs old posts and trying to understand when and why you need to use the various types of mounting plates.

    so the holes line up but obviously the spacing is off. Also, from what I read, just having the big ass hole needed for k sticks is somehow supposed to make JLF et al unusable.. but I don't understand why? If anything it seems to be a cosmetic thing, but the dust washers cover it up anyways

    my guess right now is that I'm going to need to raise the mounting plate up somehow, I guess I could use some nuts/washers to make it the right height. Is that correct?

    And what do i do about the big ass hole in the plate?

    Finally, how would I get a new plexi printed?

  • CookieSoupCookieSoup Joined: Posts: 80
    edited February 2015
    So the PCB for my Qanba Q1 recently died and I asked around a little in the buy thread to see what PCB would be best as replacement. The one I was forwarded to arrived today and I have started replacing my broken PCB. I have, however, run into multiple issues while doing so. I don't have much experience with this kinda stuff.

    So, first of all: the connections for the select, turbo, analog mode, etc. run from one PCB to another PCB: http://i.imgur.com/cwlw3Fl.jpg
    This means there's a 2-way connection going on, right? http://i.imgur.com/9o4QUTU.jpg

    Now, none of the cables that came with my PCB have this, they're all like this: http://i.imgur.com/LkUhxuA.jpg
    Am I supposed to start stripping these cables and solder them to respective pin in that slot or something?

    Second of all, does anyone have any good ideas for safely attaching the joystick cable to the joystick? Check this pic here: http://i.imgur.com/7xIRcpF.jpg
    The original cable connecting the joystick to the PCB had a clamp which doesn't go into the joystick slot of my new PCB, so I used the cable that came with it WHICH I ASSUMED is intended for the joystick, but it doesn't even seem to properly fit.

    I already tested out the connections for the joystick and all my other buttons, working just fine. I'm breaking my head over these select, etc. buttons and the joystick connection though. I'm out of ideas here.
  • CookieSoupCookieSoup Joined: Posts: 80
    edited February 2015
    I'm just going to make a new post because editing my previous one with a wall of text now would become too much of a mess.

    I have successfully attached all buttons and the joystick to the PCB, tested them out in SF and they seemed to be registering just fine. So, what the hell, I thought, time to close her up. Put on training mode and started messing around with combos and such and then it struck me:

    The buttons and my joystick aren't registering properly at all! Sure, every button press corresponds to the action my character does correctly, but there's a terrible delay on it or other such horribleness:

    - holding down on the joystick and pressing a button to do a crouched normal won't come out at all or very delayed
    - Buttons randomly register as being held down (charged) even though I merely pressed them
    - Pressing multiple buttons in succession along with moving around the joystick (combos, jump ins, etc.) will have about half of the inputs just randomly not register

    It all comes down to the same thing in the end, but yeah, this is a total disaster; my stick is still completely unusable.

    THIS is the PCB I was forwarded to by the way, multiple people (not exclusive to SRK forums, I'm not pointing any fingers here) recommended me it so I reckon it must be a decent one. Honestly, it all looks really legit and everything, I'm really not sure what the culprit is here.

    EDIT: Nevermind, I got it to work! Turns out the USB cable I was already using had one pin too much and was interfering with my new PCB. So I changed it with the one that came with it and now everything's working perfectly!

    My sincerest apologies for this blatant stupidity on my part, I should have known better :confused:
    Post edited by CookieSoup on
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,452
    Pictures of your wiring? It's possible you got a bad unit.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • CookieSoupCookieSoup Joined: Posts: 80
    Pictures of your wiring? It's possible you got a bad unit.

    Should be no longer needed :smiley: , check the edit to my previous post. I was simply too stupid to realize I should have really switched out my old USB cable with the new one that came with it, the old one had a ground pin too much and was probably interfering with my new PCB.

    It's working perfectly now, I merely panicked for a bit and went and flooded the thread with two useless posts because I was able to figure it out myself after some tinkering. Again, apologies for that, I should have given it some time before immediately asking for help.
  • electrifuzzelectrifuzz Joined: Posts: 19
    edited February 2015
    *Hi guys, so I asked this in the ZD Encoder thread but I am going to post it here as well, in the event that one might not check that thread for a question. Below is a copy-paste.

    Hey y'all, so I am very excited because my board has arrived and I have now mounted it inside my stick, and have finally got everything ready to go. Unfortunately I am unable to find a map of which plugs go to which PS3 controller buttons, save for home ("mode"), start, and select.
    T2to8IXDFXXXXXXXXX_!!609580932.jpg_620x10000.jpg
    This is the image on the ebay page from which I purchased the encoder, and it just says to use sections 2 5 and 8 for buttons, but they are not labeled anything that makes sense to me. I understand this will not be an issue on PC because I can just map the buttons in USFIV but I do not yet have P4AU for the PS3 so I want the buttons to be working properly for when I do. Until then, trial and error it is!

    Post edited by electrifuzz on
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,387
    Yeah trail and error, you might want to use some game with a practice mode where you can see your inputs on screen
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,452
    edited February 2015
    Most of the Chinese sellers of that board have a button guide further down in the description. Also, the L and R buttons are correctly labeled already, the mode button functions as home.

    Edit @electrifuzz :
    zdencoderhookupedit.png
    Post edited by PresidentCamacho on
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • everythingWasBeeseverythingWasBees Full of questions Joined: Posts: 159
    edited February 2015
    What's that awesome textured wire sleeving everyone seems to be using nowadays?

    e.g. http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10109210/#Comment_10109210
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
  • everythingWasBeeseverythingWasBees Full of questions Joined: Posts: 159
    edited February 2015
    Tensho wrote: »

    Oh, I didn't mean that particular setup, just the type of sleeving, since I saw it used outside of that harness setup as well. Though I guess it indirectly answered that question as well. Thank you!
    Post edited by everythingWasBees on
  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,387
    edited February 2015
    Tensho wrote: »

    Oh, I didn't mean that particular setup, just the type of sleeving, since I saw it used outside of that harness setup as well. Though I guess it indorectly answered that question as well. Thank you!
    That stuff is simply called Braided Wire Sleeve, you want to use synthetic materials (like nylon or PET) and it is best under the brand name of Tech Flex. Stick to general purpose Tech Flex. The Heavy Duty stuff is for industrial use. Example the braid made from Kevlar is overkill.
    You could also use the outer layer of Paracord or 550 cord (putting out the center threads) if there a pattern or color you can't find with Tech Flex. Light duty Paracord is fine as the heavy duty stuff will be a waste of money.

    There are metal wire braided sleeves, avoid this stuff as its intended for hydraulic hoses and not electrical wiring.

    Braided Wire Sleeves are used in thousands of applications, electrical, hydraulic, marine use ect. Scuba gear drivers use this to color code air hoses, automotive, audio and PC case enthisist been using braided wire slaves for years for everything from reinforcing wiring, wire and cable organisation, color coding and visual aesthetics.

    For Arcade sticks, its mostly for organization and visual aesthetics.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • electrifuzzelectrifuzz Joined: Posts: 19
    edited February 2015
    Most of the Chinese sellers of that board have a button guide further down in the description. Also, the L and R buttons are correctly labeled already, the mode button functions as home.

    Edit @electrifuzz :
    zdencoderhookupedit.png


    Thank you so much @PresidentCamacho, I finally have a working arcade stick on my PC/PS3!!

  • unwndunwnd Joined: Posts: 452
    I was messing around in training on USF4 on my hrap kai and I noticed after a while my mp/mk buttons started acting up, they wouldn't register like a third of the time and if I tried to plink or hit two buttons at once they would straight up not register at all. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it immediately worked fine, just wondering if there might be a problem with the pcb or usb or something, only happened once so far but i'd rather it not happen again and i'm wondering if this is a problem anyone has experience with?
  • PerthoPertho The Runed One Joined: Posts: 22,008 mod
    Stopped by Radio Shack and bought a new Soldering Iron and a tip cleaner. Are there any other supplies I should be looking at from them? Considering I plan to make some sticks or die trying, any heads up wold be appreciated.

    Dremmel manual stated I use compressed air for cleaning it, can I use the cans of dust remover spray for it? Seems like there wouldn't be a problem but I'd rather ask.
    Ronin Chaos on Pertho:

    "Oh, Pertho. You complete me."
    jimmy1200 wrote: »
    pertho attacked me first, saying i get all my life tips from 106th and park.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,452
    Pertho wrote: »
    Stopped by Radio Shack and bought a new Soldering Iron and a tip cleaner. Are there any other supplies I should be looking at from them? Considering I plan to make some sticks or die trying, any heads up wold be appreciated.

    Dremmel manual stated I use compressed air for cleaning it, can I use the cans of dust remover spray for it? Seems like there wouldn't be a problem but I'd rather ask.

    Momentary switches and dual pole-dual throw (DPDT) toggle switches are handy to have around.

    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • protonautprotonaut Joined: Posts: 1
    I just finished making some custom fightstick art, and I just have a few general questions before I go off and get it printed:

    I would like to probably change my artwork again in the future most likely, so would the screws/buttons be enough to keep the artwork in or do I need to apply adhesive? Also what kind of paper should I get it printed on? I was thinking maybe card stock or laminated but I'm not sure which would be the best?
  • buyproductbuyproduct Chemist for Hire Joined: Posts: 1,035
    I asked this in the UD USB Decoder thread but thought I would ask it here.

    Is there a list of currently supported ps3/360/usb supported devices that the decoder works with?
    @undamned
    I got one of these and have it set up. But for some reason my decoder only recognizes 360 controls. It does not recognize ps3 controls such as the toodles chtulu, inpin converter or ps360+ booted in ps3 mode. Any idea why and how I can fix this? I think I need to refresh the firmware. But the instructions for doing so are a bit confusing to me.

    @Darksakul I think you mentioned earlier you had trouble updating the firmware. The instructions mention something about a boot loader application and a firmware file. Were do I get these from? Any help would be appreciated.

    Also, what would be the best way to check how much latency is introduced when a convertor is made from one of these?
    "weekly 8 on the break tournaments >>> cali majors " skyet
    "Lol, the break is pretty serious when the real players show up, because everyone is a killer! " Dr. Chaos
    8 on the Break weekly thread: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=194801
  • undamnedundamned Wake up! Time to die! Joined: Posts: 1,686
    buyproduct wrote: »
    Is there a list of currently supported ps3/360/usb supported devices that the decoder works with?
    Not yet. Still need to put one together.
    buyproduct wrote: »
    I got one of these and have it set up. But for some reason my decoder only recognizes 360 controls. It does not recognize ps3 controls such as the toodles chtulu, inpin converter or ps360+ booted in ps3 mode. Any idea why and how I can fix this?
    I've personally tested both MC Cthulhu and PS360+ in PS3 mode. No idea why it's not working for you. Unless you bought yours from me aeons ago or you bought an old one used from someone else, it's definitely not a result of old firmware. If you do want to try updating it just to cross that off your list of things to try, download one of the manuals (firmware update is same for all) and the firmware/program file here:

    http://udgametech.blogspot.com/p/firmware.html
    buyproduct wrote: »
    Also, what would be the best way to check how much latency is introduced when a convertor is made from one of these?
    There is no simple answer. My converter does its job in about 1ms, but you have to factor in the entire chain:

    Input controller -> UD-USB Decoder -> Encoder PCB (pad hack, whatever)

    I've seen input controllers range from ~1ms to ~14ms. If your encoder PCB is not USB based (Playstation 2, for example), I think the encoding time is probably pretty fast (maybe even negligible).
    -ud
  • YenjoiYenjoi Joined: Posts: 556
    What's the general consensus on the best Xbox 360 PCB to padhack now?

    Its been years since brawl pads have been long out of stock locally so my question I'd locally if you needed a pad what would be your best bet going to walmart, target, GameStop, etc.
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,452
    Yenjoi wrote: »
    What's the general consensus on the best Xbox 360 PCB to padhack now?

    Its been years since brawl pads have been long out of stock locally so my question I'd locally if you needed a pad what would be your best bet going to walmart, target, GameStop, etc.

    Rock candy pads. Haven't done one myself, but word here is that the triggers don't need inverted.
    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • everythingWasBeeseverythingWasBees Full of questions Joined: Posts: 159
    So vinyl dye on sanwa rims. Is there any sort of gloss coat or something I need to sand off beforehand? Anything else I should know besides numerous thin coats, and wash the plastic beforehand?
  • TenshoTensho Joined: Posts: 2,866
    All I know is make sure it's clean and dry and that it's real Vinyl dye and not that Krylon or Rust-Oleum stuff etc that's not real and will wear off over time unless you clear/gloss coat etc
  • zhd93zhd93 Joined: Posts: 25
    edited February 2015
    I am about to place order the parts of my first arcade stick. I have some final questions and make sure i don't miss anything. If i do miss anything or buy something wrong, i have to bear another 2-3 weeks of shipping time :( Also please consider this is a poor man's build. I would like buying lots of different color parts but right know i just need a quality stick to play.
    The parts i will order:
    LS-58-01-C-MS 1x
    OBSN-30 10x
    LS-56 spring
    e-clip for backup
    Terminals
    So, Anything missing?

    Now the questions:
    1-Should i buy bolts and screws?
    2-Couldn't find octo gate for ls-58 in akishop. But there is this: LS-56 Round Gate Is this an octo gate?
    3-I will sacrifice a cheapo controller and use it's pcb. I am not sure how many buttons i should buy. Other than standart 10 buttons it has "Turbo", "Auto", "Clear" buttons. What do they do and should wire these buttons to new stick?
    I would appreciate any other suggestions too.

    Edit: Is this pcb any good?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zero-Delay-Arcade-USB-Encoder-PC-to-joystick-for-MAME-Fight-Stick-Controls-/251241991403?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7f308ceb

  • everythingWasBeeseverythingWasBees Full of questions Joined: Posts: 159
    One final question, I know that Neutrik D-type chassis fit in a 24mm hole, but what's the size for the screws?
  • PresidentCamachoPresidentCamacho Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho Joined: Posts: 3,452
    zhd93 wrote: »
    I am about to place order the parts of my first arcade stick. I have some final questions and make sure i don't miss anything. If i do miss anything or buy something wrong, i have to bear another 2-3 weeks of shipping time :( Also please consider this is a poor man's build. I would like buying lots of different color parts but right know i just need a quality stick to play.
    The parts i will order:
    LS-58-01-C-MS 1x
    OBSN-30 10x
    LS-56 spring
    e-clip for backup
    Terminals
    So, Anything missing?

    Now the questions:
    1-Should i buy bolts and screws?
    2-Couldn't find octo gate for ls-58 in akishop. But there is this: LS-56 Round Gate Is this an octo gate?
    3-I will sacrifice a cheapo controller and use it's pcb. I am not sure how many buttons i should buy. Other than standart 10 buttons it has "Turbo", "Auto", "Clear" buttons. What do they do and should wire these buttons to new stick?
    I would appreciate any other suggestions too.

    Edit: Is this pcb any good?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zero-Delay-Arcade-USB-Encoder-PC-to-joystick-for-MAME-Fight-Stick-Controls-/251241991403?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7f308ceb

    1. If you're building the case yourself, you'll need them at some point.

    2. Yes, that's the octo gate for the 56/58.

    3. I would recommend 11 buttons in case you want to use it with a console later. 8 action buttons, start, select, and home/guide. I would also recommend that you use 24mm buttons for the last 3 (start, select, home) to save space. Don't worry about hooking up turbo/auto/slow/etc unless you want them- nobody uses that stuff anyways.

    4. That pcb should work fine, though I do recall a few users having trouble with usf4 on steam with it (he might have been using a Mac,i don't remember for sure). PC compatibility often seems to be a crapshoot.

    Play Crimzon Clover, or go to hell.
  • FabamaFabama Progenitor of the walk forward EX Grim Reaper Joined: Posts: 25
    I am planning on modifying a Madcatz TE S top panel to allow for the mounting of a Myoungshin Fanta lever, and had a quick question about removing the original Japanese mounting plate from the panel.

    I am assuming that the mounting plate is welded only at the spots circled in red in the image below. If I were to drill those spots out, would I be able to remove the mount without too much difficulty?

    fvAUqAt.jpg

    After removing the plate, I will widen the original hole for the joystick so as to fit the collar for the Fanta, and drill new holes to mount the Korean Lever. I'll also need to use some kind of spacers to mount the stick at the right height, but that should be simple enough.

    Have any of you made this particular modification before? Is there anything important that I should note before beginning?

    The help is much appreciated.
    Tekken is a pretty cool game.
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