The Official TE2, TE2+, TES+, PANTHERA EZ MOD Thread

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  • hyp36rmaxhyp36rmax Joined: Posts: 122
    How soon can we expect the TES+ Ezmod?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    hyp36rmax wrote: »
    How soon can we expect the TES+ Ezmod?

    Mid-Late February. Need to get things manufactured for anything retail ready.
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  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    Hi Jasen,

    I'm planning on installing the TE2+ EZmod but have an issue. My USB connector is broken so I'm looking for advice on what to replace it with. I'm thinking of a USB extender that I cut up. Will this work. I stripped all wires and bundled some of the shielding wire to make it a ground connection. See this image: https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/57018498@N00/31708674133/

    The connector on the left is the standard one that came with the TE2+ and the one on the right is the USB extender I'm planning to use. What do you think?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    That should work fine. It wont be super elegant, but it will do the trick.
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  • BeatrushBeatrush The guy who runs the stream Joined: Posts: 1,315
    edited January 26
    Hello Jasen,
    I got one of the TE2+ ez brook universal board mod packages from arcade shock and the screw terminals on the EZ board are faulty. No matter how tight I screw them, the wires for the USB connection constantly come out.

    I was wondering if I am still able to use the USB port from the brook board to power the setup instead of the screw terminals on the EZ board.

    If not, do you have any suggestions or should I contact arcade shock for a exchange?
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  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    Beatrush wrote: »
    Hello Jasen,
    I got one of the TE2+ ez brook universal board mod packages from arcade shock and the screw terminals on the EZ board are faulty. No matter how tight I screw them, the wires for the USB connection constantly come out.

    I was wondering if I am still able to use the USB port from the brook board to power the setup instead of the screw terminals on the EZ board.

    If not, do you have any suggestions or should I contact arcade shock for a exchange?

    I think you are getting the wire in the wrong spot. It happens to me as well. If the little metal sheild isn't fully "up" when the screws are loosened... the wires get above them and they come out.
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  • BeatrushBeatrush The guy who runs the stream Joined: Posts: 1,315
    I think you are getting the wire in the wrong spot. It happens to me as well. If the little metal sheild isn't fully "up" when the screws are loosened... the wires get above them and they come out.

    Hmmm ok I'll try disconnecting everything and unmounting the board and try again.
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  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    Beatrush,

    I just got mine today as well. I noticed that it came with the USB connector screws all the way to the top. You need to loosen it so that the catch would lower. Once the catch is lowered, you can then insert your wires into the catch. Then you tighten it back up. I hope that helps.
  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    edited January 26
    Hi Jasen,

    I got my EZmod w/ Brook UFB today for the TE2+ and have installed it but am running into an issue. The controller auto detects and works fine on the PS3 and PS4 but I can't get it to work on the Wii U, Xbox 360, or Xbox One. When I plug it in, the player indicator LEDs would light up for a brief second, at the same time, the DP LED stays lit. However, it just does not work on those systems. I've upgraded the firmware to 1.8 as well. Note that I am using a Mac. Here are pictures of my install:

    Note: that there's a blinking green LED in addition to the solid green LED.
    31688715904_39f2a2e696_z.jpg
    32379960042_1a33449621_z.jpg
    Note: UFB LED is constantly on.
    32491570186_64c6b04608_z.jpg

    Also not sure what these cables are for, should they be used at all? If so, where?
    31720415373_a4f06863e6_z.jpg
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    Those two extra cables connect between the tow unused connectors on the TE2+ EZ MOD and the Brook UFB. One is for future touchpad support (if they implement) and the other is the DP/RS/LS connector.

    It sounds like the EZ MOD is working fine, but the Brook UFB is not. My board routes signals only and doesn't touch the USB lines whatsoever. That blinking light on the EZ MOD is a "heartbeat" that shows the code is executing in the EZ MOD that handles all of the Player LEDs, etc. Things that need some sort of processing to work with the Brook basically. All inputs like start, home, select, DULR, and the P1-K4, are simply passed right to the Brook. So if its not autodetecting, its an issue I can't fix.

    Try using the USB output on the Brook UFB with a USB cable and see if the situation is the same.
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  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    Those two extra cables connect between the tow unused connectors on the TE2+ EZ MOD and the Brook UFB. One is for future touchpad support (if they implement) and the other is the DP/RS/LS connector.

    It sounds like the EZ MOD is working fine, but the Brook UFB is not. My board routes signals only and doesn't touch the USB lines whatsoever. That blinking light on the EZ MOD is a "heartbeat" that shows the code is executing in the EZ MOD that handles all of the Player LEDs, etc. Things that need some sort of processing to work with the Brook basically. All inputs like start, home, select, DULR, and the P1-K4, are simply passed right to the Brook. So if its not autodetecting, its an issue I can't fix.

    Try using the USB output on the Brook UFB with a USB cable and see if the situation is the same.

    Hi Jasen,

    I tried your suggestion and connected a USB cable straight to the Brook, but it does not make a difference. Still not detecting my XBox and Wii U.

    Btw, the connector for the LS/DP/RS is too thick and doesn't fit the Brook connector. I think I need a slimmer cable, like the one for the USB (J6-1).
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    That connector on the Brook isn't the correct one for the EZ MOD; it's not what I include at least with the kits. That's probably why it doesn't fit. Did you get the board in an EZ MOD kit or did you buy it from somewhere other than ArcadeShock?

    Other than that, I suspect there is something else wrong with the UFB. If it has been updated to the current FW; I'm at a loss as to why it's not working with 360/wii u/One. @GOGO.Zippy - thoughts?
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  • ShinBetlogShinBetlog Joined: Posts: 5
    edited January 26
    That connector on the Brook isn't the correct one for the EZ MOD; it's not what I include at least with the kits. That's probably why it doesn't fit. Did you get the board in an EZ MOD kit or did you buy it from somewhere other than ArcadeShock?
    Got it as a kit from ArcadeShock: https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-te2-plus-version-w-brook-ufb-soldered-headers-package. Where can I get a slimmer cable connector, like the one you include for the USB/J6-1 connection? Would Fry's have something like that? I think that will fit the presoldered LS/DP/RS connector on the Brook.

    Other than that, I suspect there is something else wrong with the UFB. If it has been updated to the current FW; I'm at a loss as to why it's not working with 360/wii u/One. @GOGO.Zippy - thoughts?

    Yeah. I updated to the latest firmware via my Mac. Basically:
    1) I downloaded the firmware (1.8),
    2) opened it,
    3) pressed PS and Share button while plugging in the controller (as instructed by firmware installation instructions)
    4) updated firmware
    5) clicked on "done"/"complete" button after the firmware updated
    6) unplugged the controller

    Tried it across my systems and it only works on the playstations.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    ShinBetlog wrote: »
    Got it as a kit from ArcadeShock: https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-te2-plus-version-w-brook-ufb-soldered-headers-package. Where can I get a slimmer cable connector, like the one you include for the USB/J6-1 connection? Would Fry's have something like that? I think that will fit the presoldered LS/DP/RS connector on the Brook.

    Typically yes, though you just need something from Harwin via digikey thats 1x4 .100" connectors.

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  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    One thing to try... the legs on the connector should face UP for the Stick Selector switch. Are the pins bent down a bit? It might just take a little manual manipulation to make it fit since Molex does make a "naked" version of the KK connector as well that mates with the cables included.
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  • ken123103ken123103 You're just mad because your angry Joined: Posts: 597
    Hey Jasen,

    It seems like this link to the EZ mod for TE2+ with connectors (https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-te2-plus-version-mad-catz) has gone dead. Does this mean no restock soon? :-(
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  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    Probably means they sold out of premade kits.
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  • Liamcraig320Liamcraig320 Joined: Posts: 29
    I just bought a TE2+ and the buttons are squashy and way too sensitive. And the joystick is not stiff at all, feels like it is all over the place. Not what I expected for paying 220$. I have two questions. The first is are the Sanwa 30mm you buy online any better?and if not what brand is better.
    The second questions is if I'm going to spend another 60-80$ modding the TE2+, should I just buy the qwanba dragon? Is it just as good or better?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    I just bought a TE2+ and the buttons are squashy and way too sensitive. And the joystick is not stiff at all, feels like it is all over the place. Not what I expected for paying 220$. I have two questions. The first is are the Sanwa 30mm you buy online any better?and if not what brand is better.
    The second questions is if I'm going to spend another 60-80$ modding the TE2+, should I just buy the qwanba dragon? Is it just as good or better?

    Sanwa buttons are sanwa buttons, no difference in any stick you get them in. The Dragon uses the exact same, just a different color. The lever is the same deal as well. Sanwa JLF in both cases. If you are going to want to make it stiffer, get a new heavier spring.

    Also, this is off topic. This is the TE2/TE2+/TES+ EZ MOD thread which has nothing to do with the buttons and levers installed in these sticks.
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  • Liamcraig320Liamcraig320 Joined: Posts: 29
    Sorry, I'm new to this,, just need to know how to get stiff responsive buttons.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    Please use the search function of the forums. There are hundreds of discussions on personal preference on buttons and levers.
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  • DarksakulDarksakul Your lack of faith disturbs me Joined: Posts: 23,798
    Sorry, I'm new to this,, just need to know how to get stiff responsive buttons.

    Just buy a button that is physically stiffer to push.

    In general Seimitsu buttons are stiffer than Sanwa.
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  • Liamcraig320Liamcraig320 Joined: Posts: 29
    Thanks :smiley:
  • EndRantEndRant Joined: Posts: 247
    Sorry, I'm new to this,, just need to know how to get stiff responsive buttons.

    get seimitsu buttons.
  • ProgressiveBalanceProgressiveBalance Lili - Heihachi - Akuma - Evil Ryu - Wolverine - Zero - Scorpion - Baiken - Mitsurugi Joined: Posts: 242
    or Sanwa RGs
  • guttahtrashguttahtrash Joined: Posts: 8
    Can you use a Neutrik USB port instead of the stock Pro Cable port?

    My other question is that does the Left Stick/Right Stick/D-Pad function still work?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    Can you use a Neutrik USB port instead of the stock Pro Cable port?

    My other question is that does the Left Stick/Right Stick/D-Pad function still work?

    Sure. You just need to mod the case to make it fit and forgo the USB connectors on the EZ MOD.

    For the TE2+ version, yes, the LS/RS/DP switch works.
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  • guttahtrashguttahtrash Joined: Posts: 8
    edited March 6
    Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask but is there a way to have the LS/RS/DP switch work on the old T.E.2 with the EZMOD pcb?
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    No, it would require a redesign of the board. I chose to not implement that in favor of setable buttons for the various other buttons on the UFB.
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  • guttahtrashguttahtrash Joined: Posts: 8
    Oh I see, well thanks for the help.
  • HydrasunGQHydrasunGQ Joined: Posts: 2
    edited March 6
    =)
    Post edited by HydrasunGQ on
  • Feargus001100Feargus001100 Joined: Posts: 989
    edited March 12
    DOUBLE POST fo-giv-a-nes prease!!!

    Been doing a lot of house keeping on SRK the last few weeks; Cleaning up my WTT/WTB TO thread, Finding new homes for some sticks that never really felt right in my Tony Robbins' banana hands, Organizing the trunk of funk that is my storage locker/parts bin, And now finally trying to wrap up some builds that were perpetually stuck at 75% complete.

    So here's my attempt to make a MadCatz TE2 SE

    Specs:

    20170311_233201.jpg

    20170311_225952.jpg

    20170311_225335.jpg
    Post edited by Feargus001100 on
    #MAS_Preservation_Society
  • VarmintBabyVarmintBaby Joined: Posts: 559
    Nice LS-32 in that TE2
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  • Feargus001100Feargus001100 Joined: Posts: 989
    Nice LS-32 in that TE2

    It's actually a LS-38 but thanks nonetheless :D
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  • guttahtrashguttahtrash Joined: Posts: 8
    Just got the EZMOD board and having a little problem. The 2 buttons at the top doesn't seem to work. Was also wondering what the PS3/PS4 switch does.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    Did you install the jumpers on the headers to set them to a function? If you didn't they won't do anything.
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  • guttahtrashguttahtrash Joined: Posts: 8
    Do you mean the green and red * ? Then No I didn't but can you explain on how to install the jumpers? I'm completely new to modding.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    Please watch the video for the mod, I explain where to install the little plastic jumpers in there. its not hard, you just install them by putting them on a set of pins so that the buttons behave as you want them to.
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  • guttahtrashguttahtrash Joined: Posts: 8
    edited March 14
    You mean the J8 & J4? I thought you meant I had to connect JP4/JP5 to something. I have J4 and J8 connected and the turbo functions don't seem to work.
  • Jasen HicksJasen Hicks JasensCustoms.com Joined: Posts: 2,372
    JP4 and JP5 are 2x4 headers. There is a graphic printed on the board that shows jumpers need to be installed to connect a button to each. Additionally, all the wires need to be connected from the aux board to the EZ MOD and then from the EZ MOD to the UFB.

    Please show pics of your install, otherwise I am just shooting in the dark here.
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