Sega HSS-0136 Mod Work Log

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Comments

  • asiangrafxasiangrafx Joined: Posts: 204
    edited January 19
    jopamo wrote: »
    Skip vinyl dye or paint. Disassemble the case from the internals. Buy 40 Volume (12% Peroxide) Hair Developer Cream. Put on gloves and lightly brush on a thin layer. Do not cover (despite many resources online that indicate otherwise—as it will cause botching). Put the cream covered case in direct sunlight—preferably in a foil-lined box to ensure full light coverage. Re-coat every hour. The time spent in the sun will be representative of how much the case has yellowed (3-6 hours for light yellowing, 8-16 for significant yellowing).

    It took only about 14 hours of sunlight to get this yellowed Saturn..

    To look like this...

    did you have tape anything up like the clear part or will it be okay to brush it all over?
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    I just make sure I try to avoid the clear plastic and labels. If some gets on, it’ll be fine.
  • JFK1980JFK1980 Joined: Posts: 10
    I posted this over in the Official Arcade Stick Art Thread and electricgrave suggested that I might get more answers over here, my original post:
    JFK1980 wrote: »
    Hi, I've just joined the forums in the hope that someone might be able to help me out.

    I've just spent the last few months (slowly) modding/refurbishing a Sega Saturn Virtua Stick (HSS-0136), primarily so I could change the stick to an octagonal gated Seimitsu LS-56-01; although I have also swapped out the buttons to Sanwa whilst I have it apart. This meant removing the original artwork to get to the stick screws, which I didn't want to do as I actually really like the retro design and I wanted to keep it as original as possible (the buttons and stick are original colours too). However, as a result of the artwork removal it has become damaged and slightly ripped, no matter how careful I was, and so cannot be reused.

    So, being an ex Graphic Designer, I spent a good few hours redrawing the artwork (tracing the original in Illustrator from a high resolution scan) and I've now come to the point where I need to get it printed. This is where I'm having problems, as I would like the material to be as close to the original as possible, which is almost like a semi-rigid matt-textured plastic coated paper (the closest thing that I can think of as being similar is one of those cheap mouse mats with family photographs printed on, just without the foam base).

    Does anyone have any suggestions as to what this material could be? If not, what is a good material to use as a replacement?

    If anyone would like a copy of my VS artwork, then please feel free to message me.

    Artwork here (wouldn't let me embed on here for some reason?), this is just a screenshot of the print ready PDF, so isn't high enough resolution for printing and I still need to tweak the blues of the logos as they didn't look quite right after having a proof printed.

  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    Well that’ll work. Thanks! You can embed images as long as the URL for that image has a file extension at the end. Just paste the URL here within a [“img”] and a [“/img”] (no quotes). Check it:

    qQ4JviNl.jpg

    See?

    I plan to use Game On Grafx for my Virtua Stick printing needs. They apparently have something similar to the original textured laminate, and their print quality is very good.
  • JFK1980JFK1980 Joined: Posts: 10
    edited January 19
    jopamo wrote: »
    You can embed images as long as the URL for that image has a file extension at the end. Just paste the URL here within a [“img”] and a [“/img”] (no quotes).

    Yeah, I tried that, but just got a broken link, thought it might be a permissions thing for low post counts or something. You'd think something that simple would easy for a Web Developer... Oh well.

    I'm in the UK, so hopefully shipping won't be too bad from that place. I had a look at their site earlier and it seems that they offer quite a few different services and materials, do you know what the material/laminate is called that you mentioned?

    Also, I wasn't sure whether to add the cutouts and external shape to the artwork, to have it cut during the printing process, or whether to stick with the shape I have and then make the cuts once it's stuck on with a craft knife. Especially as the buttons are now wider than the original artwork by a few mm.

    I'm not looking forward to mounting the stick first and then trying to line up the artwork, would be much easier if the artwork went on first as a flat surface, but then I wouldn't be in the situation in the first place if that were an option!
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,621
    edited January 19
    JFK1980 wrote: »
    I'm not looking forward to mounting the stick first and then trying to line up the artwork, would be much easier if the artwork went on first as a flat surface, but then I wouldn't be in the situation in the first place if that were an option!

    You can always disassemble the stick so that you only have the housing installed (with the shaft and pivot removed) so that you have a flat top-surface to work with.
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • JFK1980JFK1980 Joined: Posts: 10
    Hmm, I didn't even consider that. Presumably that's easy enough to do, as well as put back together afterwards?
  • JFK1980JFK1980 Joined: Posts: 10
    I should say that this is my first venture into modding a stick, I’ve actually come full circle as this thread helped me out few months ago when was looking into how to do it. :)
  • FreedomGundamFreedomGundam Freedom, ikimasu! Joined: Posts: 2,621
    JFK1980 wrote: »
    Hmm, I didn't even consider that. Presumably that's easy enough to do, as well as put back together afterwards?

    Yeah, it's just one E-clip that holds the majority of the shaft (and attached components) together. :)
    Current at-home stick: Hori VLX Kuro (LS-40-01 + PS-14-K)
    Current portable stick: Mad Catz TvC (LS-40-01 + PS-14-KN)
    Current guest-sticks: custom ABS Modular stick (JLF + OBSN-30), custom Saint-stick (Happ/IL Competition)
    Cabinet: custom "Resistor" cabinet (32" LCD, X360, P1=LS-32-01 + PS-14-KN, P2=JLF + OBSC-30)
    Previous sticks: custom Happ CvS2 Double-sticks, custom Happ Hitomi-stick & Xenosaga-stick, custom Sanwa/Seimitsu Neptune-stick and Sylvia-stick, modded Mad Catz TvC, modded Mad Catz Brawlstick, modded Hori FSVX, modded Exar Exaprize

    Looking for:
    CPS2 (green or blue): Hyper SF2
    Naomi GD-ROM: SF Zero3 Upper, Puyo Puyo Fever, Triggerheart Excelica, Ikaruga
  • JFK1980JFK1980 Joined: Posts: 10
    Awesome. Well that’ll certainly make it a lot easier.
  • kikimaru024kikimaru024 Mid-tier scrub Joined: Posts: 1,716
    jopamo wrote: »
    Skip vinyl dye or paint. Disassemble the case from the internals. Buy 40 Volume (12% Peroxide) Hair Developer Cream. Put on gloves and lightly brush on a thin layer. Do not cover (despite many resources online that indicate otherwise—as it will cause botching). Put the cream covered case in direct sunlight—preferably in a foil-lined box to ensure full light coverage. Re-coat every hour. The time spent in the sun will be representative of how much the case has yellowed (3-6 hours for light yellowing, 8-16 for significant yellowing).

    It took only about 14 hours of sunlight to get this yellowed Saturn..
    MX9mRIEl.jpg

    To look like this...
    RrN8aTnl.jpg

    So... how does this work when we're in winter & have no sunlight?
    Seimitsu & K-sticks > Sanwa JLF.
    This truth is not universally acknowledged.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    I live in sunny California, broseph. Not an issue for me :wink:
  • electricgraveelectricgrave KOBURAH!!! Joined: Posts: 86

    ...and yet another project lurks it's ugly head...it's gonna be a difficult one as the previous owner went all kinds of crazy with spray paint and then decided to strip it but quit half way and gave it to me for free!...we'll see what I can do.

    The case is empty, no PCB, no top start button, no turbo switches and no turbo slide. I'll either fill in the spaces or get creative with some hardware, we'll see how it transpires. In the mean time if anyone has any ideas or advice that would be great.

    The stick in there it's a LS33 from a Blast City CP, it fits like a glove so that's what I'll be using for this project.

    In the meantime I have worked a repro for the CPO, I have a second Virtua Stick complete that needs a new CPO and some whitening to the case.

    ...patience is a virtua.
    26952488_10204106095049085_7066642279133151126_o.jpg?oh=b29bc4b4909cde5863b8c27b92b6fbd4&oe=5AE5BCFE

    26951835_10204106095009084_9189327035572168194_o.jpg?oh=30ad203eb6fbb41596bed12164737269&oe=5B2608FA

    THis one here is the one I'll be replacing the CPO and doing the whitening to.
    26841015_10204106110969483_8545807964319949838_o.jpg?oh=ce8454dd106be35214c6cc4771816bb4&oe=5ADDBAD1

  • DarksakulDarksakul I find your lack of Faith Disturbing. Joined: Posts: 25,061
    jopamo wrote: »
    Skip vinyl dye or paint. Disassemble the case from the internals. Buy 40 Volume (12% Peroxide) Hair Developer Cream. Put on gloves and lightly brush on a thin layer. Do not cover (despite many resources online that indicate otherwise—as it will cause botching). Put the cream covered case in direct sunlight—preferably in a foil-lined box to ensure full light coverage. Re-coat every hour. The time spent in the sun will be representative of how much the case has yellowed (3-6 hours for light yellowing, 8-16 for significant yellowing).

    It took only about 14 hours of sunlight to get this yellowed Saturn..
    MX9mRIEl.jpg

    To look like this...
    RrN8aTnl.jpg

    So... how does this work when we're in winter & have no sunlight?

    UV lamp works.
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
    - Darth Vader, Philanthropist
  • electricgraveelectricgrave KOBURAH!!! Joined: Posts: 86
    edited January 21
    JFK1980 wrote: »
    Artwork here (wouldn't let me embed on here for some reason?), this is just a screenshot of the print ready PDF, so isn't high enough resolution for printing and I still need to tweak the blues of the logos as they didn't look quite right after having a proof printed.
    Great work! I also worked on a repro CPO, maybe we should trade files as to confirm measurements
    I might just get on a jumpstart on the template, maybe we can have a collaboration of sorts if you're willing. I'll post some mockup results here, if you have any advice or critique, I'd be very grateful.

    Edit: Here's what I've done so far...
    26230463_10204062294714104_4223521254270478824_n.jpg?oh=3a6eb69b5290022a979be485488b68bf&oe=5AE8C5E6


    PS: I know the sphere S is supposed to be black...I'll fix that later.

    Edit: Credit where is due; The MCTE Virtua Stick template that's being used lately was a tremendous help to get things started, so thanks to whoever made it. I also used the Astro CP for color matching.

  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited February 5
    Hi @JFK1980 ! Please check your PM’s (and enable PM notifications). Thanks.

    @electricgrave did you guys confirm measurements between both of your repro panel files?
  • electricgraveelectricgrave KOBURAH!!! Joined: Posts: 86
    Not yet unfortunately.

  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited February 10
    Damn.. and @JFK1980 isn’t checking private messages. Ugh. I’m getting to a point where I’m just going to send these panels to Aaron at allfightsticks to get gray powder coated.
  • kikimaru024kikimaru024 Mid-tier scrub Joined: Posts: 1,716
    @jopamo @electricgrave
    What way are you doing your panel art?
    Seimitsu & K-sticks > Sanwa JLF.
    This truth is not universally acknowledged.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited February 12
    “What way”
    Can you be more specific? Look? Application?
    What?
  • kikimaru024kikimaru024 Mid-tier scrub Joined: Posts: 1,716
    jopamo wrote: »
    “What way”
    Can you be more specific? Look? Application?
    What?

    Yeah sorry, I meant to ask was: have you measured your panels & created accurate templates (with dimensions in mm/inches)?
    Seimitsu & K-sticks > Sanwa JLF.
    This truth is not universally acknowledged.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited February 13
    I scanned in the panel and cross referenced the sizing in Adobe Photoshop with the physical measurements of the panel itselt. I then made a template using the outlines of the panel and holes for reference. I then made a copy and vectorized the panel template for Adobe Illustrator—to start drafting out the lines, shapes and text. I didn’t finish this part myself, though the other two guys seem to have done so. JFK1980 is MIA though so they can’t cross-check each other’s work for accuracy.

    However, as to my knowledge, Game On Grafx prints and laminates as a rectangular piece and does not laser cut to a specified shape. I’m going to get them to print and send a panel out to me. The I will have it cut myself at a local shop, using my template as an overlay guide.

    Now all I need is the panel art file. I gave up on finishing my own. If I cannot get things done this way, I’m just going to have the metal panel sanded, powder-coated, labeled using black vinyl (or paint stencil), and then I’m going to satin clear coat the entire panel....kinda like these bad boys (but with a Japanese Saturn logo):
    FFGCpzGl.jpg

    Honestly, the longer I wait, the more I lean towards powder coating
  • JFK1980JFK1980 Joined: Posts: 10
    Ugh, so sorry guys, I've not had a chance to get back on here for ages and email notifications were going into my junk folder, which is now sorted.

    Hopefully it's not too late and you can still utilise my artwork. I'd love to see how it turns out with Game On Grafx before I place my own order as I think the shipping to the UK is going to push the price up for me, so I want to be sure.

    I will say that I'm not 100% happy with all the colours just yet, I'm going to get some proofs printed to try and get as close to the original as possible, but for now you can edit/play with the files yourselves. My plan is to cut to the crop marks and then apply the artwork so it's square, then flip it over and trim the edges and cut the holes with a sharp craft knife.

    PDF and AI files here.

    I've spent a lot of time on that artwork, so if you feel like buying me a beer sometime then that would be welcomed. ;)
  • JFK1980JFK1980 Joined: Posts: 10
    While I'm here, does anyone know the size of the silver bolts/nuts that hold the faceplate on, and also the size of the black screws that hold the bottom plate on?

    Mine have seen better days and I'd like to get some replica replacements for when I finally get around to putting it all back together.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    Whoa. Thanks a TON! Those bolts are standard M4 carriage bolts with a 15mm long thread.
  • JFK1980JFK1980 Joined: Posts: 10
    Perfect, thank you.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited February 14
    I took a visit to my local print shop and the guys there suggested that I print on laminated vinyl. They suggested that they be the ones to overlay and then mount/cut on the bare panel. I respectfully declined that request as I'm pretty handy with a hobby knife and spray adhesive.
    Then the dude said: "why spend all this time and money on something that's been obsolete for decades."

    I laughed. hard.

    Needless to say, I'm going to give it a go with a single print. If it works out I will try and get a few more printed for backups and gifts.
  • JFK1980JFK1980 Joined: Posts: 10
    Ha, just because they aren’t sold in stores anymore, doesn’t mean they are dead, not at all.
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited February 15
    Ok...hot off the press:
    pjgOuL4l.jpg

    Shit cost this unemployed bozo almost $200. Why I bought so many? I don’t know, really...Paranoia and stupidity? Print shop dude says they are still off-gassing, and thus remaining gas bubbles will disappear in the next day.

    Here’s one up close (ready for a big image?):
    v8nTxJn.jpg

    They printed at 1400dpi on laminated 3M Scotchcal graphic film. The image looks very sharp. Note that the colors on these photos are not 100% accurate as this was under 2700K temp room lighting. Aside from that, the gray color is a tad more green-hued than I’d prefer, but I’d prefer that color-bias than the other typically on gray shade shifts—which is fucking purple (bleck). The texture, compared to the original, isn’t quite as rough. It’s actually very smooth. The thickness is 1mm (laminate and print combined). If my memory serves me correctly, I believe the original combined sticker and laminate is 2mm. Will this new stuff sit flush to the plastic edge? That remains to be seen.

    Thanks go @JFK1980 for amazing work on the reproduction panel art. A lot of time was spent on this, and it totally shows! Thanks again!
    Now I've got to buy some Rapid Tac spray solution and a new felt-lined squeegee. My existing one looks like it’s seen a war.

    I don’t have much time to dig in and get this mounted quite yet. Once I do, I’ll post my experience and pictures of the results.
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited February 16
    Double post, bitches!
    Ah, the joys of being temporarily unemployed. There are few—but this is one. Test time!

    So...the prints are very good quality! Exhibit A (next to another HSS-0136 with no mods):
    (It’s gonna be a big image folks... brace yourselves)
    RSV0bO3.jpg

    BUT! (And it’s a big one)...
    The laminate layer is not very resilient at all. Exhibit B (scratches from using only a squeegee with moderate pressure):
    MNcIniUl.jpg

    I’m really going to need to hit up my local Michael’s craft store and see what they’ve got for ANOTHER layer of clear protective wrap ON TOP OF the existing laminate layer. Ugh...

    On the plus side, there is JUST enough space left for another layer for everything to sit perfectly flush:
    2XzoGkhl.jpg

    Here’s the unmodded HSS-0136:
    JhlZxXHl.jpg

    As I spent a shit-ton here, I’m going to have to try and make these panels as scratch resistant as possible without resorting to a Game On Grafx order. Wish me luck!
    Post edited by jopamo on
  • electricgraveelectricgrave KOBURAH!!! Joined: Posts: 86
    Holy smokes, I missed out on all the fun. Excellent work folks!

    My process for the CPO pretty much reflects that of jopamo's except I didn't do a vector of it. All the measurements were done metric. I can email the PDF if need be, just LMK. Looks like the work is pretty much spot on regardless though.

    jopamo, are you planning on selling the ones you don't need to alleviate the expense?

  • jopamojopamo Stuck in Silly-con Valley Joined: Posts: 1,422
    edited 8:23PM
    Perhaps, once I can nail down a more scratch-resistant surface solution. Right now I wouldn’t feel comfortable taking money from people with things so easily scratched. I’ll hit up a craft shop and test some options. Last resort, I may even try a spray clear coat. I’ve had good results with that before. Stay tuned.
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