The "Everything about building your own custom stick thread" thread.

[chippermonky]

It's about time we have one. THere are contstantly pointless threads that pop up and I can't blame them because the info they want is buried 50 feet deep in troll turd. I'll edit as I see fit. Please post any helpful additions/requests. Sticky please

Oh, and as a small note, I'd prefer to keep this as a resource thread containing mostly llinks in interest of saving space. Of course, this rule is not set in stone.

And i finally, there is now some info about modding under "misc", Maybe I'll link to some specific modding guides out there later..

edit: fixed some links

Complete guides:
-A very nice complete guide (very comprehensive wiring section too) for building 2 player p360s. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/index.htm
-paik4life's very comprehensive stick bulidng journal http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthre...hlight=hacking (As paik said himself though, his method is different from standard methods and takes more work/time/skill however producing amazing results, go check out his stuff for youself :). In any case, the painting guide in his journal is still excellent)
-http://mysite.verizon.net/res8l8d9/joystick_builder/base/interior.htm (it WAS a great guide, but the site is down now, lets hope it gets back up soon)

Mods:
-Futhamucka's VERY nicely made guide on modding an agetec green goblin, includes much info about surface preperation and painting. (hot stuff) http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117178 and http://jonesey.clawz.com/joystick2/
-Another agetec mod, includes in depth info on mounting a seimitsu inside. http://www.tychom.org/stick/


Woodworking guides:
-Byrdo's small sanwa stick blueprint http://www.byrdo.org/small_sanwa_blueprint.htm
(check complete guides)

Painting:
(check complete guides)
-http://case-mods.linear1.org/case-mo...r-case-part-1/ THis is actually a guide to paint wood, but most of the tricks are largely applicable to painting wood. I used this one.

Wiring/soldering:
-My how to solder guide http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=118502 very verbose but very descriptive. Will show and explain exactly where you want to solder, or you could just be ignorant and look at the padhacking thread and copy the image...
-the "pad hacking" thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthre...hlight=hacking
-the series A solderless hack (But you should learn how to solder anyways) http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack/
-some nice (and not so nice) wiring examples: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=89241

Measurements:
-Various stick spec sheets http://www.industrias-lorenzo.com/bs...tegoria=133553
-JLF-TP-8YT: 9mm mounting depth (including cover lexan/acrylic)
(someone help me here please?)
-JLF mounting plate measurements courtesty of per. Can be used to make your own mounting plate as well. http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...s/b35f31e5.jpg

Layout templates:
-http://www.arcadecab.com/Store/Single_Base_Details.htm (includes various curved/straight layouts for american style parts... I don't like these very much though)
- Popular Sega Blast City layout. Great for japanese style sticks.
- Layout for byrdo's small sanwa case. (I think)
- An 8 button curved layout complete with measurements. I REALLY have no idea where I got this one >__<. This layout is probably not drawn to scale.
-
-http://customarcadecontrols.com/SFAC_Stick_Template.zip the SFAC layout template, thanks nitewalker again.
-http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/apeman45/img20050408003449.png looks like blast city layout w/ measurements. Good stuff.
-UMK3 layout thanks someone (sorry, i forgot who!) http://deleterian.com/heavenclipboards/

need american style layout >__>

(please PM me if you these templates are your creations and/or you don't want me to post them here. I got these a while ago and I'm not sure who to ask for permission and credit. I'm assuming right now, that no one would mind, but just in case, sorry in advance)

Where to get joystick and buttons:
-Sanwa/Seimtsu:
-http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=116457 (I personally always buy from ponyboy, best prices)
-http://www.Akihabarashop.com
-http://www.himuragames.com (most people seem to get them here)
-http://www.vgonetwork.com (best prices for small purchases... they take forever to ship)
-http://www.excellentcom.net/parts.htm (best prices I've seen, but it ships from asia so...)
-http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/ (for UK buyers, thanks hejdelond)
-ebay :)
-our trading outlet
-the BYOAC buy/sell/trade forum http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade.htm
-and if you live in japan http://www.gamengai.com/akimap.php

Happs:
-http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost...03&postcount=5
-ebay :)
-our trading outlet (including ponyboy)
-the BYOAC buy/sell/trade forum http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade.htm
-http://www.happcontrols.com (duh)
-http://www.x-arcade.com (*barfs*) (that means don't get them)

Where to get other things

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost...03&postcount=5 Thanks nitewalker, you rule.

Quick Disconects: Akihabarashop.com has them overpriced. The sizes you need for sanwas/happs are slightly irregular. The best place to get them is in hundred packs off ebay. Size for Sanwas/Seimitsu: 22-18 Wire .110 Tab | For Happs: 22-18 Wire .187 Tab (thanks nitewalker). Please note that the sanwa JLFs and Seimitsu LS-XX-01 use 5 pin harnesses instead of tabs that you can put QDs on. So unless you want to solder, you must buy their dopey connector :(.

Wood/tools: Your local hardware store :)

Paint:
-Osh has them for $2/can :), I use them and I have no complaints about quality. They go on nicely and they apply very evenly. Of course, I don't really have anything else to compare it to.
-most other hardware stores will have spray paint for <$5. Nice a cheap for a one time job, don't inhale the fumes.

Misc
-nice comparison chart for all the sticks http://img95.imageshack.us/my.php?image=beztytuuco8.gif
-Paik4life's excellent japanese part faq http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=118289
-list of sticks that are suitable for modding: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=119686

[Hejdlond]

If you live in Europe and want Sanwa parts FAST I can recommend Gremlin Solutions in the UK. They have Sanwa parts, arcade cabinets and more arcade related stuff.

Ordered Sanwa parts from there for a friend who needed parts fast for Versus (a swedish fighting game tournament) which will be held in 2 weeks from now. But otherwise, if you can wait a few weeks for your parts, I'd recommed Akihabarashop.

[Paik4Life]

First off, this is a very good attempt at compiling useful information. Good job, chippermonkey. Here are some suggestions/tips:

1) Although it's very flattering to have my guide posted please be aware of the warnings I gave in that thread and the warnings I repeat here. The method of building in that thread is one that is used by TheRealNeoGeo and myself (although specifically I tell how I do it, it was based on information from TRNG). It is not a traditional way of building and it is a LOT harder. It takes a LOT longer. It requires more tools. It costs a LOT more in terms of materials and investment in tools. It takes a larger skill set. All-in-all it's not a beginners' friend. If you're really gung ho about the method and want to do it, by all means go ahead but again it's at your own peril. : )

2) 9mm is the total depth from the very top panel that you want to mount a JLF-TP-8YT. This includes the plexi/lexan layer if you're using them. For LS-32 and 32-01 if you're using 2-3mm lexan, just mount it flush to the surface of the wood. Mounting depths different for every stick and plate for the most part though. The best person to get info on this would be TheRealNeoGeo.

3) For microswitches on Sanwa and Seimtisu sticks, .187 quick disconnects are the standard. As mentioned above, for the buttons .110 are standard. JLF and all LS-XX-01 models have 5-pin harnesses so you don't need quick disconnects. The reason why AkihabaraShop quick disconnects are so expensive is because they are barrel type which grip not only to the stripped wired but also to the insulated wired for a hold that you won't be able to pull off.

4) For those who are scared of soldering, they can hunt down some rare solderless A series PS pads and follow the guide here:
http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack/

Hope these help. I'll add more when I think of anything.

~Paik

[shrimpnoodles]

build your own only? here's mod:
tekken hori
http://himuragames.suddenlaunch3.com...num=1109887687
agetec
http://tychom.org/stick/index.html

barrier strips: radio shack
inside look on what wiring looks like:
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89241

[NiteWalker]

This is a good thread. I'll list my sources too. Sorry, chippermonkey, if some of these overlap yours. If you want, you can add these to your first post and I'll edit/delete this one.

*cue Returner's Theme from FFVI/III*
The List
Building Materials
WOOD-For building the box.
For wood I go to Home Depot or Lowe"s. They both carry MDF, Particleboard, Plywood, Other Woods, Tools, Lexan/Acrylic, Hardboard, Paint, Finishes, and pretty much everything you need to build the box. They also have the cable ties and cable tie mounting pads I use.
http://www.bargainbirch.com/commerce...2527de825e3b81
For you birch plywood freaks. Birch ply is VERY strong and very stable. And very light.
TOOLS-No place is cheaper for power tools.
http://www.amazon.com
ROUTERBITS-Buy a router. You will not regret it. Versatility is the keyword.
http://www.routerbits.com/
Best source for high quality routerbits. I get ALL my routerbits from this place. Out of 17, they placed first in a head to head bit test in Fine Woodworking Mag.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/
Another great place for bits. They ship free too. Their bits are up there in quality. I never heard anything bad about their bits.

That covers building the box.
Wiring Sources
WIRE-Get 22AWG stranded unless you're doing the Solderless A-Series Hack. In that case get 22AWG Solid for a 6 button stick or 24AWG or smaller for a full 8 button stick.
http://www.radioshack.com/home/index.jsp
They have a lot of other needed things for stickmaking as well, like a 25-40 watt soldering iron and necessary soldering supplies.
BARRIER STRIPS-Help keep things neat and make it easier to change out PCB's later on if you wish. I avoid Radio Shack in this case. They're overpriced.
http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Screw-Euro-St...QQcmdZViewItem
These are of very good quality. Up to 20 (if you feel like stocking up....) are shipped for only $3.95. A good deal.
QUICK DISCONNECTS-A lot of people still ask about this so...
Happ buttons and joysticks and Seimitsu joysticks QD size: .187
Sanwa buttons QD size: .110
The sources:
.187
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Red-Quick-Di...QQcmdZViewItem
.110
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Red-Quick-Di...QQcmdZViewItem

EDIT: They're back in business now.

That does it for building the box. With all those links you have all you need to build a fantastic joystick box and wiring it up.
ARCADE PARTS
The meat of a custom stick...

HAPP SOURCES-AKA American buttons and sticks.
http://www.happcontrols.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/Bottlenoses-H...Q3amesstQQtZkm
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQ...3aMEFSQ3aMESOI
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=47066.0
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=36770.0
JAPANESE SOURCES-Sanwa, Seimitsu, etc.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=36770.0
http://www.akihabarashop.com/

All of these places I can vouch for as I've bought from all of them.
Hope all this helps. I'll post more if I find more sources I use.
Peace.
NW

[elvis_a_presley]

Australian parts suppliers:

GameDude Arcades: Sanwa parts, Happ parts, whole NEW Candy cabinets, JAMMA wiring harnesses, keywiz keyboard encoders, etc, etc
http://www.gamedude.com.au/arcade/

OzStick: Sanwa JLW, JAMMA wiring harnesses, Happ buttons, official AU reseller for Ultimarc I-Pac and J-Pac:
http://www.ozstick.com.au/

Retromania: cheaper brand sticks and buttons:
http://www.retromania.com.au/

Highway: arcade spare parts, cabinets, sticks and buttons:
http://www.highway.net.au/

And some good general building info here:
Jaremy & Deanna's Arcade Stick Construction:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/index.htm

[chippermonky]

Thanks nitewalker, you seem to have eveything. By the way, I DO regret getting a router because I subsequently chopped off a small part of my ring finger after I got it :(.

[NiteWalker]

Thanks nitewalker, you seem to have eveything. By the way, I DO regret getting a router because I subsequently chopped off a small part of my ring finger after I got it :(.

Man I completely forgot to mention safety

A router is a VERY versatile VERY DANGEROUS power tool. It will bite if provoked. Watch your fingers. It only takes one mistake to hurt yourself severely. RESPECT the router. Do not fear it.

How bad was the injury and how did it happen?
Be careful man. The last thing you need is to lose a finger...

[chippermonky]

It looked horrible when I got it. A flap of skin... meat was flapping on my finger and there was blood everywhere. Nothing actually came off though. Eventually the flap of meat tuned black and fell off. It's healed completely now and there is only a small scar on my fingernail which is hadly noticeable and will probably go away. Of course, my fingers missing a bit of mass now.

So that's what happens when you don't know what your doing with a route :D.

[NiteWalker]

Glad it was only minor. The best accident, though, is the one that doesn't happen.

[elvis_a_presley]

Remember folks, wood is harder than flesh, and these tools can cut through wood like butter.

ALWAYS put safety first, and never make any assumptions. I've been working with wood and metal for 21 years and have never had an accident. Not because I'm "better" than anyone else (trust me - I'm still a home handyman at best), but because I'm damned paranoid when it comes to safety.

Always follow the instructions, and never put your fleshy bits where the fast spinning metal parts are. :)

[chippermonky]

Actually this accident was a pretty good one. Because I was inevitably going to have an accident before I learned my lesson, and I think this is... lesson is better than losing a finger ;). Positive thinking kills.

[chippermonky]

bump, sticky please.

[chippermonky]

hey, does anyone know the dimensions of the standard sanwa mounting plate? Doesn't need to be exact, just within 1 mm.

[NiteWalker]

Hey, read the first post again. Here's a happ template:

Print without any scaling.

I'm working on a sanwa drilling template just like the happ one above. Would that be ok or did you want the numerical dimensions too?

EDIT
Mods, please sticky.

[chippermonky]

Hey, read the first post again. Here's a happ template:

Print without any scaling.

I'm working on a sanwa drilling template just like the happ one above. Would that be ok or did you want the numerical dimensions too?

EDIT
Mods, please sticky.

hey thanks, I like the way you make your templates :). I just want the numerical dimension of the mounting plate for my own personal needs hehe. I didn't feel like making a new thread, so I figured I'd just use this one. A sanwa template like that would be awesome though by the way.

[NiteWalker]

k I'll measure one of my mounting plates and post the dimensions for you later tonite. I'll work on the sanwa template too.

[Paik4Life]

This is from Per. He made it himself and showed me this the other week. Give him your thanks.



~Paik

[NiteWalker]

Nice!
I think I'll just skip doing mine now...

[N_paul]

I just have to say this is really helpful. I've seen a variety of ways to wire the insides. I don't erally understand all of them though.

There's the daisy chains using common ground, but then I see a stick with all the grounds (I think) going to a row of some sort of anchor that's been screwed in.

http://www.arcadecab.com/images/Visi...1010359-lg.jpg

I tihnk the anchors are called barrier strips? Do they have an advantage over common grounds?

http://arkadesticks.com/rick1inne.jpg

I personally use the daisy chain method because I don't know any better.

[chippermonky]

No matter how you wire it, it's all the same so long as all the wires end up in the right places. People like to use barrier strips because they make things look tidier. functionally speaking, they make changing yoru button configuration and the pcb easier, but how often are you going to do that.

[chippermonky]

bump, sticky if that'll ever happen please..

[NiteWalker]

This is a template for the street fighter arcade stick. A lot of people ask for it for replacing the art so here it is:
http://customarcadecontrols.com/SFAC_Stick_Template.zip
It has 3 files in it; a 300 dpi psd file, a 72 dpi psd file and a 72 dpi jpeg. All the measurements are 98% accurate. If I'm wrong let me know and I'll correct them.

+ ticky Please!!!

[futhamucka]

Eventually the flap of meat tuned black and fell off.

Hwarf!

[Tetsu]

awesome thread. i dug up all my old PS pads and found out i have several A models. thank you spiffyshoes for that guide and thank you chippermonkey for organizing all this info in one thread.