$25 for the Street Fighter Fight Stick?


My local eb games is selling a pre-owned Street Fighter IV Fight Stick for $25. A couple of weeks ago I got the injustice battle edition, the fight stick is ok. But I don’t like the joystick. I feel like the injustice fight stick doesn’t suit me. Is the Street Fighter IV Fight Stick better? I know its kind of small, and is the joystick smoother? The rotation on the injustice fight stick is horrible. Also is the SF4 fight stick 4 gate or octagate?


Do yourself a favor and read this => Info Thread: Rules, FAQs and Tutorials Inside. (READ THIS BEFORE HITTING THAT NEW THREAD BUTTON!)

If you’re new, still no excuse not to read up and learn things before you post…
At least 85% of what you’re going to ask has already been talked about to death and probably has a link to it within that Info Thread and the others above it.
Just be courteous and do some research before you post 20-25 questions that have been asked by thousands of people before you.

As far as the Mad Catz SF IV Joystick is concerned – if it’s NOT labeled as a Tournament Edition joystick, it doesn’t use arcade parts. It uses clone parts like the Injustice joystick does. Clone parts 93% of the time are inferior to arcade parts – they wear out quicker and break in a lot less time.
IF you’ve only owned a joystick for a few weeks, you also haven’t given yourself enough time to get adjusted to them. Joysticks are NOT like joypads… very different feel, very different response. It’s NOT an overnight transition. You have to spend time playing and practicing with joysticks – and it helps to buy a joystick with good parts to begin with but those cost a lot more than $25! $25 won’t even buy you a quality control lever (joystick lever part) on its own. Once you do get used to a joystick with quality arcade parts, you won’t likely want to go back to a pad.


$25 is a great buy for just that shell and pcb. you can replace the lever and buttons with the real deal very easily (no soldering needed). As for the stock gate, it’s a square- easily switched if you can’t adapt.


I really don’t like the bat top. I want a ball top, and the cost to get any ball top shipped to where I am is the same price as that fight stick, so I was thinking might as well right?


$25 is a good deal. Where you located? Ive got a number of new sticks that I might not use and could be convinced to part with at a good price.


At $25. Get it! Worth it for the shell alone.


IF it’s the Mad Catz SE model with the built-in upgradeability, $25 IS a good deal for the shell.
Some of the older joysticks with good case bodies – that aren’t even designed with upgradeability in mind – are hard to buy for $25, let alone less than $50. => I’m looking at you, Agetec. Great case design but a near-nightmare mod to unless you put the time into it and carefully plan before you cut anything… <=

Much as I don’t like the stock parts in the Mad Catz SE case at least the case was designed for parts upgrades. You can’t say that for many of the non-HRAP joysticks made before 2004!
You have to give Mad Catz and especially Markman huge kudos for designing an entry level joystick case made with upgradeability in mind… That’s unappreciated by a huge chunk of people here. That attitude is 180-degrees different from the old mindset of “broken stick, time to buy a new one!” You can try and repair the older stuff, yes, but it’s a pain-in-the-butt to find parts that fit let alone trying to retrofit the cases for joystick levers that were not designed to go into ultra-low clearance spaces.


good deal for shell and pcb, but i swear the first gen madcatz pcb dropped inputs or did funny stuff


There were definitely problems with the first generation PCB’s on the Mad Catz TE’s and SE model joysticks.
They were supposedly very sensitive to static shock. On top of that, there are models of PC’s that the original joysticks PCB’s (SE’s and first and second round TE’s) just will not work with. It was something with the way the USB connection was set up in those PCB’s.
[I haven’t had a problem with my first and second round TE’s but I don’t use them as much as many people do. NONE of these TE’s work with my PC, though. Oddly enough, they are compatible with and register on my Mac.]
The PCB’s – PS3 or XBox 360 models – also had a tendency to die after a while. A lot of people had to buy replacement PCB’s or padhack joysticks after they passed through the 90-day(?) warranty period.
The other issue – and this affected the Mad Catz SE original joysticks only – was a washer issue. The Mad Catz SE comes with Mad Catz OEM parts and the original clone joystick lever in the SE had a loose washer (metal?) that ground on the PCB. Over time, that would gradually destroy the PCB. That’s probably why the clone sticks were dropping signals! The clone part was redesigned and a new joystick design debuted in the Wii Tatsunoko Vs Capcom joystick (case) which continued the SE shell design. (Note: I still think the revised clone parts aren’t very good… You’re better off replacing the control lever with a JLF, LS-series joystick, or a Hayabusa. The button casings themselves might be salvageable if you replace the original Mad Catz OEM switches with compatible Seimitsu or Sanwa button switches.) The current Mad Catz Korean joysticks have pro parts and reuse the SE shell case design…