Hello. I have been searching these forums, and others, for a couple months now trying to research a somewhat unorthodox stick configuration. I didnt want to just post my crazy idea with zero research and ask the basic noob questions only to find out that the idea was dumb and wont work. I also didnt want to post this into the padhack thread as I dont really provide any useful information and that thread is crowded enough as it is. But, now that Ive done some digging around, Im a bit more comfortable that the idea has merit. I finally decided to get a SRK account and ask for some input.
Im aiming for an all in one, all wireless (except for Wiimote) Wii / 360 / PS3 stick. I didnt realize how crazy this idea was until I saw this thread. Now I have hard-modded some consoles in my day, but Ive never messed with transistors, resistors, and diodes before, so I felt a little WAY out of my league. But then I got an idea when I saw how multi console sticks could be made using separate controller modules and dsub connectors, which would eliminate the problem of needing all the complicated (for a noob like me) circuitry. Aside from the bit of a problem with common grounds among all three controllers, I also wanted to see if I could figure out a way to not have to manually switch the modules from one controller to another, making it an extra tricky problem.
The solution I have tentatively come up with usesHDMI.
I have/will get the following:
PS3 Sixaxis w/ Axisadapter (non-common ground)
Wii Classic Controller (common ground)
Wireless Xbox 360 Controller (common ground version, will get)
Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT (best if used with common ground boards)
Sanwa OBSN-30 x 8
Sanwa OBSN-24 x 3 (for back / minus / select, start / plus, and guide / home)
2 HDMI Cables
3 Port Smart HDMI Switch (will get)
Here is the basic idea. HDMI cables have 20 useable wires. With the Xbox 360 and Wii Classic I will need 1 wire for common ground, 4 for the direction switches, 8 for main buttons (a, b, x, y, L /LB, R/RB, Lz/LT, Rz/RT), and 3 for select/minus, start/plus, and guide/home. This totals only 16 wires needed. For the PS3, I need 18, counting the same buttons, directions, and ground, plus 2 extra commons.
If I split the 2 HDMI cables in half, I get 4 cables with and HDMI connector on one end and 20 exposed wires on the other (technically, 19 wires and an addition wire Ill have to soldered to the shields). So I can connect all the arcade parts to one HDMI cable, and wire each of the 3 controllers to HDMI cables. I will get to how I am handling the ground differences in just a bit. At this point, I can use a HDMI female-to-female coupler to have a modular setup the equivalent of using the d-sub connectors. Ive already tested this with the PS3 / Axisadapter, HDMI cables, the coupler, and a single button as a proof of concept and it worked (specifically, my multimeter could read it as a completed circuit). But as I mentioned, I am trying to figure out a method that would allow me to not have to open the box to switch. Here is where the HDMI switch comes into play.
I was looking for a manual, 3 port HDMI switch that can be either battery operated or work off of the pin 18 +5V (DC, I believe). It might also be powered off the pin 19 hotplug detect, as that is also a +5V, but I dont think thats likely. While I could not find any no manual switch devices I did come across one which does not require an external power source, has a push button switch, and is relatively cheap (as you can tell by now, this is not a cheap project). The switch supports autoswitching channels, but I assume there is no possible way that would work without some sort of modification/voodoo magic as youd have to push the guide / PS / home button to turn the controller on to power the HDMI switch, but the circuit wont even be complete until the switch is on.
So, before I get really far ahead of myself, here is the basic plan. The lines represent the HDMI cables which connect at the switch with the HDMI connectors and connect at the buttons / modules with soldered wire or QC.
To solve the switch power issue, I am assuming that the switch is powered over the HDMI pin 18 +5V. I dont know if it would be powered by one of the three inputs or the output, but if I can determine which I could rig a battery pack to output 5V with a on/off toggle switch that would be rigged to power the switch through which ever line it is. I could easily attach this through one of the (at least) 2 free HDMI cable wires. Im hoping it will be powered from the output, otherwise, I suspect I will have problems with the smart switching mechanism. I think that the smart switching is handled through the hotplug detect pin though, and once the switch is powered, I will be able to use the manual button to switch channels (or controllers in this case). Worst case scenario, I just have to ditch the autoswitch and use the female-to-female HDMI connector.
Now, finally, the ground problem. If I was just making a Wii Classic / Xbox 360 wireless controller, there wouldnt be much of an issue as they both have a single common ground. But the PS3 has a ground and 2 commons, so there is no way I could wire the HDMI cable going from the arcade parts to the switch / coupler so that it would work both ways. So what I decided to do is to wire the arcade parts specifically for the PS3 / Axidapter commons and for the 360 / Wii module cables, Ill connect the ground wires together on the controller module cable side, thus reestablishing a common ground. I can whip up a diagram to explain this better if anyone needs.
Thats the plan. I haven’t ordered the HDMI switch or 360 pad yet because Im guessing Ive overlooked so obvious nonstarter problem. Thats why I was hoping that some of you veterans could give me some feedback.
BTW, I know Ill need this weird thing for the Wii Classic L and R buttons.