360 T6 Dual Wireless Stick Mod


**Modding Guide for the 360 version of the Tekken 6 wireless stick
This guide is to show how to not only swap out the stock buttons and joystick with sanwa parts, but also how to dual wireless mod the stick. Please let me know if any part of the guide seems unclear or has an error and I will update it.

Part lists:
1 Leo board (Project Leo: Sixaxis + Wireless 360 dual mod)
1 Sixaxis controller
1 3.7v Lithium ion cell
8 sanwa 30mm buttons
2 sanwa 24mm buttons
1 sanwa JLF joystick
20 .110 quick disconnects
1 DPDT switch
1 Neutrik usb adaptor
1 mini usb cord
and of course wire and solder

soldering iron
desoldering iron (or braid)
screw drivers
24mm spade bit + drill
hot glue gun + glue sticks

First things first, you have to open the case. The T6 stick has six tri-winged screws. If you luckily already have a tri-winged screwdriver then you should have no problem opening up the case, so move along, nothing to see here. If you dont have one, dont fret. You dont have to go out and buy one. Ive managed to open up two T6 cases by using a flat head screwdriver. Just make sure it fits snuggly like in the picture, because otherwise you can strip the screw.

The layout of the insides.
After opening up your 360 T6 this is what you will see.

In order to replace the buttons, you will need to first desolder the two boards off. You can use desoldering braid or a desoldering iron. In the picture you can see me using my desoldering iron to melt the solder and then suck it up.

We will reuse that wire harness so we still need to desolder that off the board too. You can do so by taking your solder iron and apply it to one of the spots where the wires are soldered to the board. Let the solder melt and pull the wire out. Repeat until all wires are pulled out. We have no more use for these two boards and may be thrown out.

With the board gone, you can pry out the buttons. In the picture, you can see me use a small flat head screwdriver to press against the tabs to push it out.

Notice these tiny metal tabs? These will have to be grinded away. I used a dremel to do this.

The holes for the start/back buttons do not have the tabs poking inwards. So no grinding needs to be done. I would advise using 24mm screw ins for these two instead of 24mm snap ins. The two white 24mm Sanwa snap ins I used did fit, but not snuggly. I had to use hot glue to keep them in place.

You can now push in all your new buttons into the holes. Push firmly!

We will need twenty .110 quick disconnects to wire up all the buttons.

For my wire supplies, I like to reuse the USB cords from the dual mods I do. Every time I do a PS3->360 dual mod, I end up with a unused USB cord plus that dongle. Instead of throwing out that USB cord, I reuse them in my mods. It saves me money, it saves the environment, and it saves peoples lives at tournaments who forget their 360 dongle. Its a win-win-win situation. If you have your own wire supplies, thats cool. If you dont and want another cheap alternative, you can use IDE ribbon cable from computers. Im sure you have a computer buddy whos dying to get rid of them.

When I wire up grounds for buttons, I like to daisy chain them. Im no good at crimping so what I do is solder two strands of wire together. Then I insert the solder joint into the quick disconnect and solder it to the QD to make sure the wires are in place.

Rinse and repeat. Plug one quick disconnect into one of the prongs for each button. It does not matter which of the two prongs you use

In order to enclose the case later on, you will need to bend all of the quick disconnects like in the picture.

Time to wire up xbox button signals to the Leo board. Solder the wires from the T6 board (labeled in the left picture) to the corresponding labeled locations on the Leo board inside the highlighted green rectangles (labeled in the right picture). To wire up the xboxs LT and RT, you must solder them to the spots circled. LT must be wired to the anode of the diode D01 and RT must be wired to the anode of the diode D15. The spots in the red rectangles should be wired up to the new buttons terminals you just put in place. Wire the Gnd wire in the button harness to the spot labeled Gnd on the Leo board.

This is what how the LT and RT wired up should look like.

This is how the button harness wired up should look like.

Time to work on the joystick.
Unscrew the four screws holding the joystick in place. Disconnect the wire harness for the joystick from the board. Lift out the joystick.

Remove the heat wrap from the terminals of the joysticks switches. Then desolder all the wires from the terminals. We will reuse the wire harness used for the joystick.

Since there is already a guide on how to mod a sanwa joystick to fit in a T6 I will link to it instead of reinventing the wheel.

Now its time to wire up the sanwa joystick to the Leo board. If you have a wire harness that came with your sanwa joystick, then this will be easy. I on the other hand had only a partial bit of wire coming out of a wire harness. You need to wire the harness to the inner set of holes for the joystick directions (was labeled in the red rectangle of the Leo board diagram). Wire the joysticks ground to the spot on the Leo board labeled Gnd.

Wire up the 360s original joystick harness to the Leo board (the direction spots in the green rectangle of the Leo board diagram)

Now that the buttons and joystick are all wired up, all that is left now is the guide button, the switch(es), and the battery.
Snip the brown wire that connects to the guide button board. This wire is the guide button signal. Cut the wire in the middle.

The wire we just cut coming from the guide button is wired to the bottom middle pin of a DPDT switch. The cut wire coming from the 360 board is wired to the bottom left pin of the DPDT switch. The bottom right pin of the DPDT switch is wired to the spot labeled Hm on the Leo board (inner row of holes, is in the red rectangle in the Leo board pinout).

The + side of the lithium ion battery is wired to the top middle pin of the DPDT switch. The + battery pin on the sixaxis board is wired to the top right pin of the DPDT switch. The top left pin of the DPDT switch is wired to pin 1 of the battery wire harness on the 360 board (its the far right pin for its harness connector). The pin on the far left of that same harness is the Gnd. Wire that pin to the side of the lithium ion cell and to the battery pin of the sixaxis board.

Unplug the wire harness that goes to the battery compartment. This will remain unplugged.

We will put the switch inside the battery compartment. If you look back to the T6 layout overview picture, circled in the battery compartment is an unknown 4pin header. I do not know what it is used for, but it can be unscrewed to allow a hole for us to pass through the wires to the switch.
The switch setup we have in place only uses one DPDT switch. When the switch is in one position, only the xbox controller is given power and the guide button will only work for the xbox. When the switch is switched to the other side, only the sixaxis controller is given power and the guide button will only work for the ps3. The downside to this one switch setup is that in order to recharge the battery, the switch has to be set to the ps3 when the USB cord is plugged in. Also, a second switch is required if you wish to have a way to keep the battery from giving any power to the boards. A use for this would be in tournament settings where you would want to make sure your stick doesnt accidently turn on.

In order to recharge the battery and sync the sixaxis, I installed a Neutrik usb adaptor into the case. I used a 24mm spade bit to drill the hole. I didnt have any screws so to keep the adaptor in place, I used hot glue on the inside to keep it in place. Now you connect the adaptor to the sixaxis with a usb cord.

Or you can solder the wires from the usb cord directly to the sixaxis board.
1: 5v
2: D-
3: D+
5: Gnd



I love the WTF is this in the battery compartment :bgrin: Great guide glad to see you found the pics.


Thanks for the tutorial ^^

I’m pretty sure the “wtf is this” is the 4 proprietary pins you connect the 360 play and charge kit to, on a regular wireless controller.


Can anyone please post up some pictures of this mod using the updated Leov2 board?