360 TE1 to XB1, least destructive method?


I was using my 360 TE1 for SFV on PC and my up/right started to not detect correctly. I am hearing the switches go off so feel it’s more likely to be the PCB as I have read those have problems.
I have an xb1 mini controller available to padhack with. I dont have any pics of the inside of the TE so I would appreciate any links if possible.
Should I proceed with the full Dual Mod, ensure power to both pcbs but just not incorporate any switches to toggle the data lines in the usb?


The switches will still click when they fail. Being a diagonal, I’d wager that replacing your TP-MA assembly would solve the problem. Try that first. Worst case, you world have a spare microswitch assembly, which is handy to have around anyways.


I actually have another JLF in a modded dreamcast agetec that I havent been using. I didnt really dremel the holes correctly or something so on occasion a button stays stuck down. Ive removed and checked, not a dirt/gunk issue.
So just swap the components and take a chance? I had a bunch tell me it’s the pcb I just figured why not.


Swapping the jlf pcb is very quick and easy to test, and if that’s the problem swapping the main pcb won’t fix it. As a general rule, it’s best to eliminate the easiest stuff as a possibility belt sinking more money and/or work into a more difficult fix.


In swapping the jlf pcb I took a look at the PCB of the TE and I have a strong feeling this is not normal. It looks like it popped and something is leaking out.
I tried googling some pics and they all seem to have that nub sticking out but without the crust on it.
What is that? I tried looking up components as it doesn’t look like a capacitor shape I’m familiar with but maybe a crystal?




Doesn’t look good, but it may have been like that all along. Did you test the controller after swapping that JLF PCB?


Yea, controller seemed fine, but it was hit or miss prior.
I hadnt used it in a good year+ before SFV came out. I had a few days of playing, no problems. Then after 2 hours in a session I was losing like crazy and swore something was up. Then I realized I couldnt jump right, likewise if I was on the right I couldnt crouch block.
So I stopped. Load it up next day and its fine again, then later it was bad, so i stopped. Next day it was just bad at the start.
Then didnt touch it about 4 weeks. Swapped this JLF and did Alex and Gief trials and seemed fine so far. I figured I’d run a clorox wipe around it and pop open the top and do the rim when I looked in and saw that. So I was wondering if its something that may be ok for a bit until it warms up and then shits the bed.
So if that is clearly not normal and the 360 component seems bad then I guess I will have to go and swap it to xb1.
I have that mini controller and I bought the hex inverters for the triggers so I have what I need.
I’m just wondering now what my options are. Like mentioned earlier, follow like a dual mod and leave the old pcb in? I wish I had jumpers to just use the wiring harnesses as they are.
Suggestions are welcome. I’ve gotten decent with soldering and can do SMDs, it just hurts my eyes now with all the squinting. i got a helping hands I’ve never used but it may be time to start using it.


If current compatibility is fine for your needs, I’d just leave it alone for now personally. If the problem occurs again, swap it out.

Basically you would only need to use the home button from the original PCB, which would require signal to that button, ground somewhere on the pcb and VCC to the board or a trace cut to take the original IC out of the equation and basically reduce the stock board to buttons and switches. Or you could add a small button elsewhere and me the process even easier. Beyond that, it would be a straight up padhack install. You could use the ribbon cable that connects the terminal strip to the main pcb for your buttons if you chose, or you could just install all new wiring (I would do it that way, but different approaches will work).


That blob is ‘supposed’ to be there - it’s a load of solder acting as another ground for that particular component.

Why? Because MadCatz : /


Hmm, Even with that layer of crap on it?
I ran out of isopropyl so I need to get some before I start playing around with the boards some more.
I’ll start prepping the mini pad as I’ve never done the hex inverter portion before for analogs.

Anyone know of a site with the pin outs and diagrams of all the daughterboards and main PCB so I can start planning?


I had a te1 that I put through a beating. I haf the same issue with a diagonals. Replaced the stick and I no longer had the on and off issue.


That is a crystal and not a capacitor.

From how it coats the whole crystal and not just the board I want to say its glue.
But there only so much I can tell from photos.


Nah, JLF pcb swap didnt do it. Its odd. I dont touch it for a week, then play for an hour, seems fine. Next day for an hour, seems good.
next day after 30 mins it starts acting up. After an hour stuff like left not working at all.
Initially I was thinking to butcher this spare vewlix HRAP but may just lean to this mini controller i bought for a mod spare.
I wanted to dual mod but barely play 360 and seems the 360 side is busted.
I dont play enough to warrant a brook board.


Do you guys think I may be encountering something like this?

This user stated having an issue from static build up. That may be the case as I dont play all week and first few games seem fine that day. Next day it may be ok, but 3rd day if more than an hour, it just turns to trash.

So if thats the case, just solder up another wire to the PCBs USB GND connection to something else metal inside, like the top plate, or housing for the JLF?


I have a extra TE PCB. You can PM me if you want it.


Bum, didn’t you say it didnt work? :slight_smile:


It works. But 3k suddenly stops working,


3k as in Roundhouse or 3xK?
I read similar about the LT/RT having static build up.


Well the grounding trick was a bust. it worked great for a week, no problems. Lots of hard playing. Didnt touch for 2 days when Guile was released. I load it up, trials, Guile, and 4 minutes later Up/right is acting up again. And I swear I had a few occasions online where hitting HK on RT did not come out at all.
So initially i was going to dual mod this for xb1 but now I’m concerned that odd behavior might carry over.
The buttons all go to that daughterboard, so I should be able to just disconnect the USB, solder from daughterboard to the xb1 pad. Remove JLF harness and connect to xb1 and that should be it?
Optionally wire xbox guide and the p1 LED as well?


iirc using 10k ohm resistors can help you fix the RT/LT issue… but the directional upright is a new thing for me