I’ll go first. 
In working on my Wii U TTT2 -> XBO stick conversion, I quickly realized that the button panel would be useless to me. My workplace just bought a 3D printer, so what better task than to try and build a replacement panel that would also hold a custom lighted button? The original stick is a MadCatz TE:S; I assume this piece will more or less fit any TE:S.
Before this, I had never made a 3D model before. I used Sketchup with a few tutorials: I just did the 3 “Start A Drawing” ones, here. The part was designed in a couple days of intense revision and learning.
I went through a few revisions:
http://i.imgur.com/sLgI75U.png
Here’s one version of the piece in the stick:
http://i.imgur.com/eczEcrV.png
My new Xbox Home button:
http://i.imgur.com/yihEt8p.png
Not perfect, but close enough for me to be done with it and stop abusing work resources:
http://i.imgur.com/Zp50d7P.png
And some testing:
http://i.imgur.com/QTThtzE.png
I also made a blank one in case anyone here just wants it blank:
http://i.imgur.com/KmY8d64.png
Here’s the lighted button I used: Lighted Green Button @ Digikey
Here’s the link to the part on Thingiverse: With Hole
Here’s the part without a hole: Without Hole
Here’s the Support Part on Shapeways: clicky This part is designed to sit BELOW the artwork and an acrylic, providing support to them.
Our 3D printer at work is a MakerBot 2X, with a heated build plate. I designed the part to be printed “upside down” so that the player-facing surface would be smooth and finished. It’s imperfect, but most 3D printing seems to be. The striping that you see on the part is the “support” structure that the printer builds. I had told it to use a different print head with a different color so that it would be easy to determine which pieces to break off when I was done. I also printed a few versions with dissolvable filament, which came out really good but take forever to dissolve. This piece takes around 1.5 hours to print @ 0.2mm layers. We’ve had the most success with cranking our heating plate up to 115°C and leaving the extruders around 230°C.
I spent a lot of time measuring the original piece with calipers and making a lot of educated guesses. There was also a lot of “Eh, it’s probably close enough, I’ll just print it and see what happens.” Filament’s cheap, after all.
I still haven’t figured out how to make my part available on Shapeways, but I will do that as soon as possible.
To further kick this off, well, I have some extras! If anyone wants one of the extras, PM me your address and I’ll mail it to you, free of charge. They’re not perfect, but they fit. Most of the extras are a little too short in terms of height – 12mm vs. the 12.5mm of the final. (My ‘final’ part is 13mm, which is too tall, but close enough for use.) They should be perfectly usable for the price of free. 