A couple confusions on wiring

So I’m doing some wiring for my custom stick (I’ll be ordering the parts as soon as modchipman comes back up, i had them all in my cart, hit checkout and the site went down :annoy: ) and I had a few quick questions on wiring. I searched around the forums for a place that’d explain wiring my 360 pad and found out i (for convenience’s sake) should have one with common ground. Fortunately, I do and I also found this image.


1.) I’ve heard a lot of talk about removing the trigger assembly and such and placing a resistor between where they were normally soldered. I don’t know if this is for controllers without common ground. So I was wondering, if I left the triggers attached and soldered one of the GND points marked in black to one side of a sanwa button and TP 9 (the LT) would this work? or do I still need to remove the trigger assembly and wire a resistor in? Sorry for the nooby question, but i’ve heard both and don’t know which is correct. (my pad is EXACTLY as pictured in the diagram.)

A couple other basic questions.

2.) Could anyone get me a similar diagram for the Original Xbox S controller? with GND and such labeled or is there even such a thing as common ground on an original Xbox pad? If there isnt, I know how to scratch the contacts off where the buttons and such but would it be possible to use the triggers at all?

3.) Lets say I had two pcbs in the same stick (360 and Original Xbox) and for example, crimped both “A” button signal wires to a single quick disconnect and crimped both the grounds in a similar fashion then attached these to a Sanwa pushbutton. Would this work? If I understand correctly it would complete the circuit for both controllers but would be irrelevant because only one would be plugged in to a console?

Thanks guys.:razzy:

well, i can’t tell from experience, but because i have done extensive research on the web i’ll take a shot at 1), but take it with a grain of salt…

  1. as far as i know you can either leave the potis of the triggers in place and use them as resistor or you will have to use a resistor. if you use the poti you will have to hot glue it down or use some other means of fixing its position though. with either of the 2 choices in place your trigger should work the way you described it. you might want to check out the padhacking thread which provides extensive info on the triggers as well.

  2. not sure about that, i don’t know enough about electronics, but wouldn’t it be easier and safer to just wire one wire set to the buttons and use a switch to switch between the 2 controllers? just curious.

also, something i did myself just yesterday on my first stick was to hook the controller up to my 360, started sf4 and went into training mode and had the movement input displayed. that way i could check (within reasonable choices) which button (as well as trigger) would work which way when i shorted them out using a wire… don’t know if this poses any danger to your console or controller though :wink:

also just out of curiosity, why do you want to use all those small points in such a cramped place instead of the button pads/poti legs?

Hrm. So the resistor is only to make the pad think that there’s still a non pressed trigger still there and leaving the trigger assembled would eliminate the need for the resistor? Makes sense, thanks :).

Anyone got any input on the rest of the questions?

that’s how i think it works, yes. leaving the trigger assembled serves the same purpose. obviously you wouldn’t want to rely solely on the spring pressure to keep the trigger in neutral state though.

Alright :stuck_out_tongue: suppose it would fit better into my stick’s housing if i just went the resistor route anyway. So how about this

I’m assuming that top wire is a ground, any clue what type of resistor that is?

well, that’s probably the standard 1/4 10k resistor everybody is talking about. not that i have a clue about it :wink:
just to clarify though, when talking about “leaving the trigger on the board” i assumed you were talking about the trigger assembly (read, the whole plastic stuff). you don’t need that. you only need the poti which is part of the assembly. however, the platic stuff comes off more or less easily anyways.


those are the potis at the bottom of my pcb (saitek pad). i left them on and hotglued them down in neutral position. gonna have to do some further testing but so far it works great. i also soldered the button to the topmost pin (ground) and the middle one (wiper i guess).

also check speedster harrys post in the madcatz lt/rt thread: