A New Warrior Has Entered The Ring! (Worklog Thread)


#1

Hey all! I think I’m finally ready to get the ball rolling on my first custom :lovin:

I’ve ordered the following:

  • 8 x OBSN-30 (Yellow)
  • 3 x SDM-18 (White Plunger, Black Rim)
  • 1 x JLF-TP-8YT (Yellow Balltop, GT-Y gate, harness & the flat mounting plate)

Still need to get:

  • Wood (MDF)
  • QDs
  • Wire
  • Project Box
  • Wireless 360 PCB

I wanted to what I had in mind in case anyone more experienced might notice any issues I may run in to.

Here is my plan thus far:

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/6682/3dmodel.jpg

I wanted to keep it simple since its my first attempt and the last time I worked with wood was 13 years ago in woodshop.

Instead of using blocks to mount the panel on I was thinking of carving out 1/2" of the 3/4" MDF like in the pic below:

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4548/3dmodeldimensions.jpg

I wanted to have the back/home/start buttons on top above the joystick meaning I’d have to cut out some of the panel support.

  1. If I was to remove the support on the top part of the box (the one with the dimension marked) would that compromise my build?

Looking at other panels I always see the button holes have 2 sizes to make room for the nut that threads onto each button. The process seem a little difficult for me and it looks like it requires some skill.

  1. Would routing out a chunk around all the buttons like in the pic below work just as good?

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3581/3dmodelbuttons.jpg

  1. Also, for the SDM-18 buttons above the joystick I was thinking of jut cutting a slot in the panel (18mm high, wide enough for 3 buttons) and just snapping the buttons to the acrylic cover (it should be thick enough). Can you see where this wouldn’t work?

I will have access to some good tools (table saw, router, etc.) thanks to my father inlaw’s garage and hopefully he’ll be able to lend a hand (fingers crossed).

I intend on getting the wood from my local Lowes (was going to go to Home Depot but they stopped selling the panel I was after last week) unfortunately it seems like they only sell huge panels (46"x97"ish).

  1. Will they cut sheet into more manageable pieces if I asked (or is it more of a store by store thing)? I had heard that Home depot stopped cutting MDF but don’t know about Lowes.

Here is the artwork I’ve decided to go with:

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/6796/panelartsmall.jpg

I did not draw the artwork, credit goes to an artist named Markovah ( original image). I just changed the colors and added some splatters etc.

From what I’ve gathered it needs to be 300DPI, CYMK color mode and to scale (3600x2250 pixels in my case) and print it on photo paper then just cut holes and sandwich between control panel & acrylic. Let me know if I’ve got this wrong :confused:

Thanks to 1esproc for the sketchup models & slagcoin for an awesome resource. Wouldn’t even attempt this if it wasn’t for the numerous members who posted guides and their work.

I’ll keep this thread updated with my journey and no doubt I’ll have more questions. Thanks all in advance and can’t wait to get my hands dirty :wgrin:


#2

You mention in the first instance that you want to keep this build simple as it is your first time - from your description and in my opinion you are going for a very complicated build. You wish to use all 8 XBOX 360 buttons together with the 3 guide buttons. That is 11 in total. If you do not have a common ground controller that will mean 22 individual solder points on the PCB before you have even thought about the joystick contacts which would be another 5. That is 27 soldering points in total on a non-common ground PCB - tough !

In relation to my initial comments are you comfortable with the work involved with the RT and LT triggers?? desoldering and adding resistors etc etc - it’s pretty tough.

In addition, why have you gone for snap-in buttons? - screw-ins are much easier to work with if you are not sure of exact thicknesses of the materials you are using. Simply popping them into the acrylic may not produce a solid fixing. I would suggest that a wooden under panel with an acylic top panel with a hole stright through them both and then using screw-in buttons would be better.

I a not trying to put you off but how about just going for a six button layout with a guide and start button only to begin with then move on to 11 buttons when you are bit more comfortable. On the other hand, having an array of decent tools will help very much. Do you have access to a drill press, router table, bench vice and clamps ?? If so then your woodworking should be a piece of cake.

I really apologise if I have come across as negative but you did ask for advice and that I exactly what I have offered.

Good luck with whichever direction you wish to take!!


#3

Should the artwork say “ChaoticShadowMonk” ? or is the spelling as you have it intentional?


#4

Thank you :slight_smile:

Intentional. Its my gamertag :slight_smile:

I’m a little more confident with my solder work than my woodwork (its only been 6 years for that one lol). I just know I don’t want to exclude some buttons and then regret not putting them in at a later date. Know what I mean?

I’ll also try to make sure I get my hands on a common ground PCB. As a general rule, is it all newer or older wireless controllers that are common ground?

The 8 main buttons are screw-ins, only the 3 18mm guide buttons are snap-ins (screw in 18mm don’t seem to exist)

Although snapping them to just the acrylic top might not be solid would it be solid enough for buttons that aren’t constantly pressed?

Would using the 3/4" mdf top with a routed section bringing the thickness to 10mm or so + acrylic achieve the same result (like in the 3rd pic)?

Yup, I have access to all of those. Father inlaw is one of those DIY people with a 3/4 of the garage full of tools (he also does metal fabrication with one of those CNC machines (I think that’s what their called))

Absolutely no need to apologies, this is exactly the kind of advice I’m looking for. I think I’ll stick with the 8button design though, I’ve got my heart set on it :slight_smile:


#5

Awesome artwork! I wish you could fix mine up like that :razz:


#6

The artwork looks like Vega in a Gi.


#7

Yeah it those. LOL. I think it’s the Ken from the Alpha series. That is one pimp ass artwork. good luck on the stick and can’t wait to see the finished product.


#8

Quit being such a negative nancy :smile:
Soldering 27 points is not tough at all. If you can solder 1 point you can do 27… it just takes longer.

And the RT and LT triggers are easy. If you leave the trigger resistor in place you wont need to add another resistor. Just make sure you hot glue the little part that spins in its neutral positon(ill post pics later) and you’re good.


#9

Didn’t even know that was an option. Pics would be a fantastic help, thank you.


#10

I’ve been unable to find anything on this. Every guide I can find about wiring up the triggers mentions adding new resistors. Do you happen to have those pics you mentioned or can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks :slight_smile:


#11

Ok. I’ve gone and scrapped my original plan and started a new one.

I’ll be making it out of colored Acrylic (ended up getting enough material for 4/5 boxes as I couldn’t get the sheets I wanted smaller than 2’x2’).

Anyway, I have a quick question which I couldn’t find the answer to. I want to add text to the case in the same way the SE/TE have “Headphone Jack” on the bottom of theirs:

http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/6751/text.jpg

From my understanding (which doesn’t mean much), they are clear transfers (kinda like car decals) but how/where do I get something like that for custom graphic/text?

Thanks. I’ll update this thread with a worklog soon :slight_smile:


#12

its actually NOT 27 wires. if you read the slagcoin diagram you’ll see that although there isnt a single common ground, many buttons share a ground. so its more like 22 wires.

soldering is in fact, not tough. especially if you’d had experience doing it before. desoldering and adding resistors is a cakewalk.


#13

where do you get

3 x SDM-18 (White Plunger, Black Rim)

i guess there only 18mm holes??


#14

Yup, 18mm holes. Liz Lick has em (half way down the page, before Seimitsus) and so does Aki but both are closed right now. Modchipman.com said they’ll get them soon.

You can also get 20mm versions. I ended up switching to 2x 18mm + 1x 24mm per box for my new build. I’ll post my sketcup plan when I get home.

Anyone? :pray:


#15

From what I remembered correctly, local print shop can do them. I cant find where I got the info, but I remember because it was a big scene for custom decals in Gundam model kit making.

I believe you need to ask them if they have an ALPS or LASER printer and dry transfer/waterslide decal paper and supply your ALPS ready image.

You can try Bedlam creations if its too much of a hassle.

If you want to try making your own decals have a look at this guide.

Im pretty sure I had more links somewhere about making custom decals. If I can find them, I’ll post them back

Also found this


#16

Thanks so much TheZen! Your a life saver :tup:


#17

dude nice planning how much will it cost you all in all !?


#18

Aye no prob.

I forgot to mention it before but for decals there are 2 types of decals: dry transfer and waterslides.

Dry transfer are like rub on decals (kinda like those rub on tattoos we had when we were kids). You place them on your intended location and rub them on with the eraser of a pencil or using your fingers. Warning though, if you dont rub the surface evenly, some of the decal wont transfer as well, messing up your job.

Waterslides decals are those that you cut as close as the decal as possible which you then let it sit in warm water for a bit to loosen it from the backing paper and apply it onto the intended material. Afterwards all you need to do is apply a layer of setting solution on the decal.

You can read up on it more at here for a better explanation


#19

So far I’ve spent around $500 but its given me enough stuff for 4-5 builds. Hopefully I’ll be able to ebay a couple and try to recoup some of my costs. I’ve also pretty much got everything I need now so I don’t expect my costs to go much higher.

I’ll probably go with whichever is cheaper/easier to obtain since both seem just as viable as each other when it comes to small applications plus I’ll be doing simple (white only with basic shapes/text)


#20

500$ and it gives you at least 5 fight sticks hmm not bad, i think >.<