A question of joysticks


#1

Hey there, I have a couple of stick related queries that I have been unable to resolve through my own research, so I must shamefully ask my questions here.

First off, I recently got a Datel Arcade Pro (Paewang), mostly for tinkering and learning, etc. The stock joystick I actually quite like, in terms of throw and engage distances, as well as looseness. I also enjoy the loud clickiness of the cheap Lema pin microswitches.

However, it has a large neutral zone where it flops about without exerting any pressure on the spring. Does anyone know exactly what in the mechanics of a joystick causes this, and therefore how to mitigate it?

By way of comparison, the JLF in my SCV stick was rock-solid when I bought it, and now has a very minor amount of play after a few week’s use.

My second question relates to the installation of sticks in a Hori EX2 (or FS3 or WiiFS). The simplest options seem to me to be 1) JLF mounted Laugh-style; 2) Hori stick with new microswitches and maybe some tape around the actuator and a different spring; 3) LS-33.

A JLF fits the bill performance-wise, but I’m concerned about the mounting height (don’t mind a bit of dremelling).

Modding the stock joystick seems attractively inexpensive, but might be more trouble than it’s worth.

I’ve seen a few posts around the internet claiming the LS-33 is a direct drop-in for the EX2, but I’ve found no guides which show how this is done - I’m also concerned about the mounting height for this one.

Can anyone offer me any advice about whether these sticks will mount at the correct height, and how to mount an LS-33?

Thanks in advance for any assistance, it’s much appreciated.


#2

Modding an EX2?

Lol, you’ll regret it…


#3

Fancy it should be you who replies! I’m the annoying guy with glasses from Sticky Mike’s that you administered beatings to.

I’m not too worried, I’m ditching the pcb for a paewang or psx padhack. It’s a nice compact case once the holes have been ground a little, and it has 6 buttons in a properly centralised astro layout.

I’m also a total noob and am interested in using it to practice on (should be around £15, so no great loss). I may have grossly underestimated the difficulty of this task, but I’m looking forward to it nonetheless.

Edit: Ok, outbid and could do without spending more money this early in the month. I suppose there’s a reason all the tutorials for the Hori FS series are from 2008…

My question about the Datel still stands.

Also, do you have any dual strikes or similar for sale?


#4

Hey, which guy were you? A physical description and character you were using would help.

The EX2 pcb is a big problem, but so is the case. There is precious little room to install a JLF, and even then you have to compromise on something - either the mounting height or using bastardised Hori joystick parts. You can just about fit 30mm buttons in there…

For the ArcadePro related question, try looking at this website: http://slagcoin.com/joystick.html

The deadzone is caused by a combination of things from the spring to the actuator to how the microswitches are mounted.

I do have a lot of Dual Strike v2 boards in stock however I am not keen on selling them as I do not trust the technology. They are simply not reliable, which is a shame as I never had a problem with the original versions. What did you want the arcade stick working on? I have PS360+ and MCC boards in stock (multi-console) and also basic Cthulhu boards if you just wanted something working on PS3.

If you wanted a fun project and are good at soldering then I also have some cut-down Cerberus boards.


#5

I was Ken - we had a few matches on the CRT and I ogled your Razer. I wear glasses, and that’s probably my most remarkable feature. My name is Sam. I did not win the tournament, but I didn’t come last :slight_smile:

I’ve read slagcoin’s site many times, but couldn’t find the answer. I’m talking about neutral rather than deadzone btw.

I read some sad tales about the dual strike v2s, which is a shame. My year 7 DT report said “his soldering was very good”, but I haven’t used an iron since then, so I’m looking at solderless solutions where possible

After last week I picked up a brawlstick for 360 to bring next time, so I would like to dual mod that at some point. This will be next month, I reckon. I have a PS3 SCV, but that’s more of a pain so I might leave it for a while.

Really, in the long run, I want a dual-console 6 button stick with the astro p2 layout. I can get all the parts no problem, have a number of pcb options, but am having trouble with the enclosure. I’m considering finding someone to split shipping from Art’s with, since shipping for a tek case is almost as much as the tech case itself (but does not increase much for 2 cases, I believe).

I’m going on a bit now, sorry - it’s my growing arcade stick obsession bursting out of me.

Thanks for your help man, will be easier to chat next Wed if you’re around.


#6

The 360 Brawlstick is perfectly dual moddable, as is the PS3 SCV (though you’ll get less benefits).

By coincidence I recently did some work on a TEK case, but not in the good way as I had to install 3 different pcb’s for the client. Those things are made for PS360+ boards. Any more than one pcb just makes it look a mess.


#7

Well, when it comes to building my own stick I might go with a PS360+ for simplicity’s sake.

I just found a solderless-compatible psx pad in the drawer under my bed, though, and the converters on p35 of the converter compatibility thread, plus things like this club.dx.com/reviews/text/56393 make me lean towards the padhack…


#8

I dont encourage EX2 mods like everyone else, but I don’t exactly think its a waste of time, you can get decent results with a bit of patience.

LS-33 IN HORI EX2

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1908672/candy/Photo-Apr-04%2C-7-04-08-PM.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1908672/candy/Photo-Apr-04%2C-7-03-54-PM.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1908672/candy/DSC01188.jpg

make countersink holes to match points where ls-33 mounting plates go. mount like so. It should fit, but you will have to trim/dremel now a very small part of the bottom part of of shaft, the part where you screw down with a flathead when attaching the ball… just enough so that it doesn’t scratch bottom plate, but not TOO much that the eclip wont work. the one in my picture is just about right.

I have also managed to fit JLF’s in there, similar method above. using ‘bastardized’ hori parts, but mainly just the shaft. you will have to cut down the JLF actuator down to the size of a hori actuator. pretty easy. It might not exactly feel like a JLF afterwards, but that’s for you to decide.


#9

The LS-33 is unique among joysticks though in that it has a shorter shaft than any of the others (meaning it can be mounted right up against the top plate) and it also feels quite loose. So yes, it is the obvious upgrade to throw in but when you want a JLF… compromises must be made.


#10

Thanks for the replies. Shame, I was hoping the 33 could be mounted against the existing posts.

A JLF will mount directly to the existing case furniture (which looks like it will give the correct mounting height) if you go through the relevant holes behind the restrictor, so if I ever pick one of these up I will aim for that.

Thanks, now I won’t have to buy an LS-33 for no reason :slight_smile:


#11

Chlamydia would be more welcome than having to mod an EX2.


#12

What if you choose to do it of your own free will?


#13

Does his research? Check
Asks a question intelligently and clearly? Check
Gets some solid advice from knowledgable tt’ers? Check
Vd joke thrown in for good measure? Check

You sir, win a few internets today… I wish all the new folks posted like this!


#14

I recommend that you stock up on drugs. Uppers especially to counter the bouts of depression where in you ask yourself: “why did I choose to mod an EX2?”


#15

Thanks for the kind words.

I have another question or two, I’m afraid.

JLFs with shaft covers seem to come with two dustwashers - the second sits between the mounting plate and panel. Does this second one serve some kind of function (like keeping the shaft cover in place), or is it unnecessary?

Also, gahrling, do you have any spare non-shaft cover dustwashers perchance? I can’t seem to get a comfortable grip with the shaft cover fitted, so was looking for a replacement. I will have lots of spare shaft covers and washers for you if so :slight_smile:

I know I can buy them from numerous European shops (arcadeforge and shadaloo, for example), but I can’t find normal JLF dustwashers anywhere in the UK.

Thanks again for the awesome support offered by this forum.


#16

Super Keeps the Dust Away II Turbo.


#17

they are an extra measure to keep dust out… (like hibachifinal said lol) I have some sticks that have, and many that have not… doesn’t seem to affect them either way but perhaps that may depend on how dusty it is in your home/where you use them.

If you PM me your addy, I can mail you a few non shaft covers. I have some laying around and they aren’t doing anything productive. Can just toss them in an envelope so no biggie.


#18

Thanks very much for the offer, but I’m in the uk so the postage might make it a more expensive gesture than you would hope :slight_smile: