Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


I have a question:

I am looking to buy a Seimitsu LS-32 onto a Madcatz Brawlstick SE (not any TE version).

To install the LS-32 in an SE, if the LS-32 comes with an SS plate, would I have to remove the SS-plate from the LS-32 and install the mounting plate from the stock joystick onto the LS-32, THEN install the LS-32 into the case as normal?


No, you’ll want to keep the SS plate when installing the LS-32


Hi, I was wondering if anyone can help me out. I was interested in adding 2 player Remora & ArcEye3 controls to my PC Mame cabinet. Can anyone give me insight on what parts i would need to order to accomplish this (buttons, boards etc.)


In that case you’re probably just noticing the normal manufacturing tolerances present in the Crown series. The actuator thing is the most typical cause of major issues. The Crowns can be unpredictable in quality which is why most k-lever folks seems to prefer Myoungshin levers over Crown. I had good luck with mine it seems but others report similar variances in their experience with crown.

Two remora boards, as many arc-eyes as you have buttons you want to light. Keep in mind the remora was built to specifically interface with MadCatz TE boards. Depending on what controllers you’re using in your cab you may want to consider alternatives like the Kaimana.


Hello All,

I’ve been looking into modding my first stick, and I’ve been doing a bit of research. Everything I’ve seen looks pretty straightforward, but there’s something key that I’ve managed to miss.

I plan on modding a HORI EX2 (360) and V3 (not the RAP, the standard version). I realize these are cheaper sticks, which is why I wanted to use them for my first mods. My one question: is it necessary to remove the daughter board for the V3 in order to add new buttons? I found a decent guide for modding the EX2, which suggested adding a short amount of wire to from the switch to the daughter board to connect them, but the guides I checked for the V3 all show quick-disconnect wiring running straight from the new button to the PCB. Is there something about the daughter board for the V3 that requires this, or can you use the same technique as the EX2 to connect them? I’m a bit nervous about soldering directly to the PCB, and would feel better just connecting to the daughter board. Is removing the daughter board just a preference, or required for some reason?

As per usual, since I’m new here I expect this was explained somewhere that I just happened to miss. I tried searching for my answers, but came up empty, and for some reason the guide sticky doesn’t seem to have a tutorial specifically for the V3.


The reason behind removing the daughter board is there no critical components on that board and you can go without it.

If your modding the Fight Stick V3 start by reading this thread

I did a similar mod to the VX, which is also mentioned in the thread.

if you are nervous about soldering, get some proto board at Radio shack and practice on that


Thanks much for that. It was driving me nuts, I KNEW there was something on it here, just didn’t come up in my searches.


Only a question my friends: i’m searching for a joystick for all use (street fighter + windjammers + metal slug + super sidekicks + goal goal goal ecc…) the seimitsu ls 32 it’s a good choice ? or is better the happ competition ? and the durability ? (this will be rape in many games probably). In any case i think i will get the bat top.

I forgot the sanwa jlf intentionally because i read that is not good for many games different from fighting games.

Thanks !

Ps: Sorry my English !


Happ is difficult to install in most arcade controllers, you pretty much need a custom case.
LS-32 is Easier to install and is known for its precision.


so, looking into picking up a panzer stick for travel purposes. my TE is just way too big to travel around with, dont want to bring a gym bag every time, lol

so, what clever solutions are there outside of the link to cut down in size? will use a neutrik so the cable will be detachable which will also save space


Thanks for the answer, in my case it will be mounted on 12mm mdf (+ 3mm polycarbonate) so maybe it’s more difficult install the LS-32, but i am not worry about install, instead that is good for ALL games.


Thanks for the reply. What else besides the Kaimana will i need to make a 2 player layout (16 buttons + 2 player Start buttons) for my pc arcade. I would like to plug it in directly through usb. I also noticed that the MadCatz TE Fightsticks for Xbox360 are compatible with PC. I could disassemble two and place them through my control panel and go the Remora route but they are a bit expensive and i would need to purchase two of them.


Assuming you aren’t already working with Jasen on it, you could have the case custom made to be smaller. You could really trim it down by using 24mm buttons rather than 30mm, and a 6 button layout instead of 8.


yeah, thats the reason why i want a panzer stick. the custom size and hte durability with the small size

going to go with 6 button, trim down the sides a lot and above the buttons. want to cut down a bunch


First your input controller board(s) should be common-ground. You need one LED controller board per input controller board (player 1 board, player 2 board). You need LEDs for each button. You need appropriate wiring to connect it all together. That’s your shopping list.

I would suggest that if armi0024’s post about the Kaimana confuses you that you might not be ready to perform an LED mod and might want to get some more general familiarity with modding in general before attempting an LED mod.


Thanks for the help! I have done soldering and mods for controllers for my cabinet. I have worked with some led but nothing this intricate. I’ll give it a try. Thanks again.


You are trying to get a custom made by Jasen or you’re going to cut it down? How are you planning on cutting it down? The Panzer cases are very heavy. Not sure if it’s the best case for travel in the standard size.


Get an art mini acrylic for travel stick.


want it robust :frowning:

oh, i meant a custom sized one for travel. going to have most unnecessary areas removed, im thinking of taking away 2-3 inches on width and 1,5 on height - 6 button obviously!

with a link, it’ll be just the case etc, no extra few inches to be super careful about like it is now (yes, link would work on TE too)

weight isn’t an issue for me, i don’t think - the TE weight is np, its just that i have to carry iut around in a gym bag. i think it’ll be around 6-7 fully stuffed etc, which is similiar


Having someone here that does custom metal work is a great resource.