I got back into AE after 2 years, but now my HK (R button on this stick) is being inconsistent. It’s just the Madcatz TvC stick (can’t believe it was only $20 then and now it’s back up to $80). I’m not rough with it and it hasn’t seen much use. Could it be some sort of dust build up or something? The button doesn’t stick, it feels just fine. It just doesn’t register every time, some of the time. Unfortunately I’ve never opened it up before. Not sure how to remove the buttons, if it can even be opened from the top, and all of the Phillips head screwdrivers around are proving pretty useless at opening it up from the bottom. Sort of a problem. It’s on PC using a USB adapter, and I’ve set the R and L buttons to function as buttons instead of sliders, so it should be fine as far as software. All of the other buttons are working just fine. I haven’t had any luck finding guides on opening it and modding it or anything.
Get some Sanwa or seimitsu 30mm buttons and a Sanwa JLF. The case opens from the bottom, there’s a screw under the warranty sticker. Look up guides for modding the mad catz se and/or the brawl stick, they’re both the sane thing as your TvC stick as far as swapping parts is concerned. There are a few videos on YouTube that will walk you through it.
Putting new authentic parts (as opposed to the mad catz knock offs that are stock) in will make the stick much better than new.
I got the button out, but these wires are really stuck in there, so I can’t unplug it. What are some good methods? I don’t like being too rough with any hardware that involves prongs.
And I’ll get some Sanwa buttons.
Needle nose pliers. Slide back the plastic boot, grab the end of a disconnect with your pliers, pull and wiggle. Be careful not to bend the tab sideways.
What’s the best way to secure an RJ45 feed-through in a hole the same size?
I’m brand new to stick building, and this is the last step. The case I received from FH arrived like this:
I could really use some help here.
PS: I have a black rubber boot cover, if that’s relevant at all.
You want to secure some mounting plate of some sort.
a piece of scrap steel or aluminum, maybe even a piece of plexy would work, one big 24mm hole for the round section of the RJ45 feed-through with 2 smaller wholes for screws.
You also want the plate wider than the hole to mount to the case from the inside (or outside)
if you mount from the inside you have to remove some wood to move the RJ45 connector closer to the outside surface of the stick case.
Excellent example of a Plexy based mount plate on the outside of a stick
Example of mounting from the inside with a metal plate
That’s really helpful. Thank you.
Is there a place I can get new ribbon cables that fit the Madcatz button distribution board? I’m switching from TE Kitty to PS360+ in my V.S. stick, and I don’t have the original ribbon cables anymore.
Looks like you might need to use a panel mount Keystone instead of Neutrik.
What I’m really curious about is how FoeHammer normally does it.
For some reason, they forgot to send the pass-through with the case I ordered, so they sent the pass-through with the cover separately.
There’s got to be a way to make this work without buying any extra materials.
I just talked to Bryan of Paradise Arcade Shop about your issue. Getting a small piece of plexi cut will be your best bet. Shoot an email to email@example.com and he will fix you up.
No. I’m not sure why your case was cut the way it is. Did you get it on clearance or something? If so, it may have been made to someone else’s specifications and then they either changed their mind on something or backed out of the sale completely so they put the case up on sale. I’m not sure exactly how bespoke FH’s operation is since I haven’t bought a case from them directly.
No, that’s just a photo of a stock F7 stick off their site, not mine.
I’m really hoping to not have to use any additional materials, but if I’m forced to, so be it.
Thanks for the help. What does Paradise Arcade have that can help me? Just a piece of plexi?
Looks like they fucked that up, it should be routed rather than cut out entirely. You’d have to get creative rigging it up, which is unlikely to look very clean. I’d be emailing FH if I were you- maybe they recommend a different mounting scheme.
I’ve been waiting for a response from them. I’ll post what I learn here once I find out how it’s done.
With a PS360, you don’t need it or any of the pre-existing wiring or pcb. Just gut it and hook up the new board from scratch- use a ground daisy chain to save yourself a mess.
Bryan can cut you a small piece of plexi with a 24 mm hole and Neutrik mounts. You can put art behind it or get it etched.
Got a response from FH. In these cases, they use epoxy to hold it in place.
I’ll post again here with results later this week.
Just a couple questions:
Does the silent jlf perform better than the normal jlf? Or is it strictly just the sound issue?
Just curious how the 2lb tension spring works? For those that have used it, do you prefer it? It’s a little bit tighter right?
Are there any issues with the silent buttons? I can’t see any reason to not use them.