Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Yes, it will.

With the exception of the JLW-UM-8 (Bat top/thick shaft version) all Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks have interchangeable ball tops which are designed to take 6mm ball and bat tops.
The JLW-UM-8 is designed to only take 10mm screw threads sanwa bat tops and 45mm ball tops. The 10mm screw threads can be fitted on 6mm thread joystick shafts with the Sanwa Bat top adapter.

First time stick modder here. I picked up some things a few years ago, and am only just now getting around to actually working on this project. Looking around, I feel like I may have misunderstood something when buying all of this stuff.

I have a Toodles MC Cthulhu PCB that I bought with the intention of making a PS3 (not XBox 360) SFIV Fightstick into the standard “all region” stick that you can make using the MC Cthulhu RJ-45 mod. I’m just now re-looking up the documentation for doing things, and a lot of diagrams and such that I’m seeing are assuming XBox 360 sticks. Did I mis-read something back then and think that I’d actually be able to perform this mod on a PS3 stick? If I did, well then that’s that. If I’m not wrong, I may have a couple of further questions.

Thanks for your time everyone!

You won’t get 360 support out of it and you can ignore the instructions on dual modding, but if you only want PS3 and retro console support then you’re fine.

That’s exactly what I was looking for, definitely was not expecting any 360 support (have other sticks for that). Thanks! I may post some dummy wiring questions later after I’ve had a chance to check some more things out for myself first.

Ok, now for a followup! As you can see in the image I’ve included, the original PS3 PCB here took both of the harnesses coming in from the array of connections below the buttons themselves (I don’t know what the actual term is for that). I definitely understand that the end of those harnesses that was previously going to the regular old PS3 PCB need to stripped down, and the appropriate wires need to be run to the appropriate screw-downs on the Cthulhu (I’m not sure how those map, but there must be documentation for that).

Now the old PS3 PCB also had an input coming for the harness coming from the joystick itself, which seems to have no way of actually connecting to the Cthulhu, so one might assume that those wires need to be stripped and routed to the appropriate place on the Cthulhu as well.

I guess now that I type this out, what I’m asking is there any sort of diagram that exists for me to be able to map these wires appropriately to the Cthulhu? I’ve found similar diagrams for the 360, but not for the PS3.

The Cthulhu will come with a print out document of what screw on the screw terminals connect to what

PS3/PC version PDF

Multi Console PDF

Also make sure you check out the Cthulhu thread

Thanks. The Welcome sheet definitely does indicate where each wire goes on the Cthulhu. However my question lies more with how can I tell which wire belongs to what button since I’m stripping one side out of the harness end (the one that used to go into the original Fight Stick PCB), and the other is still going into a harness end? Obviously there are two sets of wires, each with 5 wires (not counting the joystick wires), with a red wire on the end of each set. Is there some sort of standard mapping there?

I believe the xbox madcatz pcb’s are labeled somewhere, might be the same for the ps3 ones. Worst case, you could always use a multimeter to figure it out.

Ah yes, it absolutely was labelled the whole time! Same for the stick even, so it looks like I’m good. Thanks again everyone!

No seriously what the heck is wrong with my dualshock PS3 controller? It has a habit of randomly disconnecting whenever it’s on a wired connection and now it’s giving me power surges in USB ports whenever I plug it into my PC (probably due to it reconnecting/disconnecting over and over again) I’ve tried the following with no success

-plugging it into a different usb slot
-resetting the controller
-my friend going through the same problem bought a new usb connecter for his and is STILL going through the same problem (without the power surge problem)
-I have two different ps3 controllers but they both use the same connector, same problem

It’s really annoying and I’m considering buying a non-dualshock 3 controller that also works on ps3/pc but I want to hear what you all think before I make that choice. Is anyone else having the same problem?

Not the same problem but things like that are the reason why I prefer wired controllers if I have the option.

The fact that my introduction to them was the 360 controller probably didn’t help either.

Edit: Oh, I see your controller’s wired…nevermind.

Is there a way to mod a square gate to be smaller, or is there an existing square gate that is known for being smaller?

I am completely satisfied with how the standard sanwa JLF sticks operate except that they allow so much additional movement beyond the point where the microswitches are triggered. I have considered trying the electrical tape mod to thicken the shaft but I’m concerned that it might just cause the microswitches to activate sooner (which would probably be fine) but not really affect the width of the shaft enough to noticeably reduce the amount of travel before hitting the gate., which is what I would really like to adjust.

Hey, just a quick question:


This is my HRAP3. Anyone know the exact type of screws I need? I’m installing a new JLF and my old JLF didn’t use these same screws.

I’m in the process of making one at the moment.

Try the kowal actuator, it reduces the throw by .049" and shortens the distance to engage.

yeah maybe you’ve jumbled up the contacts for the usb . you could try getting a bluetooth dongle for your computer. i play emulated ps2 games with a wireless ds3. you should stay away from third party dualshocks. they wear out really easily.

I will give it a try, thanks for the recommendation

I like that actuator, but I still intend on buying at least a couple of @Moonchilde 's custom gates, he’ll be able to make a no throw (meaning the throw will not go beyond the microswitch engage) gate (no throw meaning stock actuator, an oversized one will still engage a bit earlier).

Another short throw option out of the box is the Seimitsu LS-40- I like it a lot, but it still doesn’t seem quite as precise as the JLF to me.

What’s the difference in the micro switches in a standard jlf and cherry micro switches. My sister ordered me the jlf modded with the cherry micro switches for my birthday and is like to know what’s in store.

Cherries feel a bit different. No good way to explain it beyond that. Since you will end up with a .187" to 5 pin harness, you will also be able to easily experiment with other switches like Zippies or levered switches.