Of course, why would you ask?
I looked on their site and it said it had the 2 pin happ connection, hence my query.
The picture, maybe I didn’t read well enough
Edit: jumped the gun. Sorry for the pointless question. Thanks for the quick responses as usual
Electrically its all the same.
I just preorded upgrade PC USF4 from GMG, and before I did I asked the support if it works for vanilla sf4 from 2007 (never got super or AE). They assured that it did.
So I fished out my manual for SF4 to convert from GFWL to steam, installed steam, and followed the instructions laid out by combofiend/capcom and it says the CD key is invalid? Wtf?
What do I do?
They are wrong. You need to have at least super to use the upgrade. Either ask for a refund or grab ae when its cheap.
Hi everyone. I recently completed my first rj45 mod on the toodles cthulhu. I made two cables to start: the USB and the PS2. The USB works great, I’ve tested it on both my PS3 and PC. The PS2 cable, however, is another story.
The odd part here is that I have actually tested it with a multimeter, and everything seems to check out. Yet it still does not function in a PS2. I will briefly detail what I did to test it.
Basically my PS2 extension that I butchered for the sake of making this cable ended up being the same layout as what is in the RJ45 thread: RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2
I cracked open the end of the extension that I cut off to see which color wire maps to which hole, and it ended up being (from 1 to 9) Brown, Orange, Grey, Black, Red, Yellow, Blue, (nothing), Green.
From here I consulted the mapping to the Cthulhu (PS2 color to RJ45 slot number): Black to 1, Blue to 2, Orange to 3, Brown to 4, Yellow to 5, Nothing to 6, Green to 7, Red to 8. I then crimped it all down.
To test I’ve taken a multimeter and put one end to a PS2 extension cable pin, and the other to the corresponding copper strip on the ethernet cable end, and every single pin passes the conductivity test.
Does anyone have any thoughts as to what could be wrong, or what else I could try to test further? Thanks!
A common mistake is to read the pinout backwards
In what way? Do you mean flipping the number of the PS2 controller pin with the number of the RJ45 pin or something? I don’t think that’s what I did…
Probably sounds silly, but did you update the firmware?
Good point, I have not! Question about that…the link to the firmware update in the official thread seems to be dead. Does anyone happen to know where it can be obtained?
Did you read the pins backwards so you have pin 1 wired as pin 8, 2 as 7 and so on?
No, I definitely made it a point to pay attention to that when I was working with the pinout to begin with. The firmware idea is an interesting one though, once I can track down where it is nowadays. I guess I assumed it would be compatible with those older systems “out of the box”, but that may not have been a fair assumption!
Hey guys I had a quick question about modding my arcade stick that I hope you guys could answer I have a Mayflash Ps3/Pc stick that I got in November and I want to mod it. Should I get a Sanwa joystick and Sanwa buttons or Hori Hayabusa joystick with Sanwa buttons or Hayabusa joystick and Hori Kuro buttons. OR should I get Semitsu gear? I don’t really know the difference between them. Would all of these buttons and joysticks fit in my arcade stick? Or be a easy job? I really don’t want to have to mess with the wires or PCB board or anything. Here is my arcade stick ->
Thanks! Sadly it seems as though firmware was not my problem, assuming I updated it correctly. There were actually two hex files in that .zip, “cthulhu.2.3.1ms.hex” and “cthulhu.2.3.10ms.hex”. I chose the first one when updating, don’t know if that was either the wrong choice or I was supposed to choose both of them, but the readme.txt file did not really go into that level of detail.
Assuming I did that correctly, then really the only possibility from what I can see would be that I got the pinout wrong. I hope you guys will humor me in giving me a sanity check to make sure I did this right, with the provided images of my stuff.
Thanks! Sadly it seems as though firmware was not my problem, assuming I upated it correctly. There were two hex files in that .zip, cthulhu2.3.1ms.hex and cthulhu2.3.10ms.hex. I chose the first one when updating, but I don’t know if that was either the wrong choice or I was supposed to run both. The readme.txt file did not specify which I should be using.
Assuming I did that correctly, the only real possibility from what I can see is that I somehow messed up the pinout as was previously suggested. I’m hoping someone can sanity check what I did based on my comments and images provided below.
So when I cut off the female end of my PS2 controller extension cable, I broke it open to figure out which colors go to which pins the “quick way”, and I ended up exactly with what I saw in the rj45 thread (though it is my image that is included below):
In case you can’t tell those colors in order from left to right are Brown, orange, grey, black, red, yellow, blue, nothing, and green.
Now since this is the female end, I believe the left-most side (brown) must correspond to pin 1 on the male end (Please tell me if I have this wrong, but I don’t see how I can), going by this image from the rj-45 thread here on the boards.
All that out of the way, I did my mapping based on the standard PS2 to Cthulu board pinouts in the RJ45 thread, and came up with this little map:
I suppose there is potential for something to have gone wrong in my mapping as far as what the PS2/PCB is expecting to see, but if so I just can’t see it. Again, please let me know if anyone notices obvious errors.
Lastly, here is the crimped RJ45 end:
I think my crimping went fine because as I stated earlier, I’m able to test conducitivity through the cable by putting one end of a multimeter on the 4th copper end of the RJ45 cable (where Brown wire is going on) and the other end on the 1st pin of the PS2 extension cable and verify conductivity. I’ve done that every pin and they’ve all passed.
I’m open to any suggestions/pointing out of my blatant mistakes. Thanks as always!
A couple of months ago I purchased a second-hand Hori RAP 3, which apparently has a JLF-TP-8Y-SK pre-installed. I also purchased a JLF-TP-8YT, to mod into my MadCatz SE.
The only difference between the two is supposed to be whether they have shaft covers/mounting plates. However, I feel that the stick for the RAP 3 is a bit stiffer than the new one I installed on my MCZ SE.
Considering that I got the RAP 3 second-hand, do arcade sticks get stiffer with age, or is it something else that’s causing it?
Your PS2 plug wiring looks fine.
How do you have the MCC connected to the cable - does it run to a RJ45 jack like a Neutrik or is it hard wired to the MCC? Might want to double check that over…
I have it going through a Neutrik. The only reason I hesitate to say that the Neutrik might be bad is that my custom RJ45/USB cable works just fine on both PCs and PS3, which I also have running through the Neutrik. I suppose the PS2 cable is using MORE wires than the USB cable is, so there is a potential for those particular ones to be “bad”. I did conductivity tests from my solder points on the back of the PCB all the way to the RJ45 cable that’s going into the Neutrik and those checked out as well. I suppose I could check them coming all the way out the other side of the Neutrik pass through in case there’s something funny going on there…
Just outta curiosity…anyone know how much those sanwa character buttons and balltops are gonna run for when they are avaible??