Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Yes, use the included SS mounting plate with LS-32-01.

Worth noting that LS-32 no -01 comes with RE mounting plate, which can’t be used with 5-pin connector or mount properly, so don’t get that, you’ll be really wrong.

Alright, thank you very much! I’ll go ahead and buy the LS-32-01!

The square/lp button on my PS3 TE stopped working after a good smash to the ground. I checked the quick disconnects, on the button and the barrier strip, and couldnt find anything wrong. Weirdest part is that the only part of my entire stick that’s going wrong is this one button. I tried to get it out to look inside the button, but i couldnt get the damn thing out, the hole is too tight (har). Is it probably just a broken microswitch or what?

I’m looking to dual mod my xbox 360 fightstick SE. I don’t know how to solder and don’t really want to learn while modding my stick, so what are the solderless options for dual modding? I know theres the TEasy, but theyre currently sold out.

TE Kitty.

I advocate soldering, but I think that anyone who wants to Dual Mod should read it. Dual modding 101

Of course, there’s always the Kitty by Toodles, too. Designed for TE/VLX, but SE uses same PCB and components as the TE, so it works just fine. Official ‘Kitty’ class boards thread

mostly new to the this tech but this noob question is bothering me
does the Toodles TE kitty kit and the Akishop ps360 tri mod have any difference over reach other, i know the are both PCB’s i just want some facts before i mod my fight stick.

PS360 has PS3 and XBox 360 support out of the box. The TE Kitty is simply a compact solution to allow your XBox 360 TE to have PS3 support.

PS360 is designed for 360/PS3 in one PCB, you would replace your 360 TE PCB to Dual Mod using PS360. You also must either cut up the existing wire harnesses to Dual Mod, or rewire it yourself. Can be used with any Arcade Stick.

TE Kitty is designed to be added in alongside your 360 PCB in the TE using wire harnesses provided with the Kitty. You plug it in with the old harnesses, so no need to rewire or cut up the old harnesses. TE Kitty lalso supposrts console auto-detection, and if you want to get fancy with it, you can use an RJ-45 jack with the TE Kitty for Multi Console Support (PS2/PSX, Gamecube, DC, Xbox1, Sega Saturn, all other consoles supported by MC Cthulhu). TE kitty also allows you to remap your buttons on any console, except for Xbox 360. Also Supports LS/DP/RS slider switch for changing analog sticks on consoles. Supports the LEDs with Turbo, which, although the PS360 has Turbo, does not support the LEDs. Only works with TE/SE FightSticks, there is also a VLX Arcade Stick version.

Easier to Install to TE? TE Kitty. Better for making a Dual Modded stick from scratch? PS360. More Features? TE Kitty. One designed to work with the most Arcade Sticks? PS360.

I’ve got a noobie question that I can’t quite find the answer for, I recently bought a xbox360 TE stick off ebay and the Y button doesn’t work. I’ve opened it up and checked for loose connections and can’t seem to find any, I’ve switched the buttons around to test which is faulty and so far it is only the Y. Do you have any suggestions for what might be the cause? As a temp fix I’ve switched the buttons and disabled the Y button, taken the connectors out and set function to none when I’m playing MvC3 however when I first load the game and I’m logging into my xbox account the y button presses itself and tries to create a new account, meaning somehow it is still working despite the button not being wired in. Any help would be great as I’d love to get the stick fully functioning, even if I only need 6 buttons.


Had this stick been dual modded or modded in any fashion? Plug it into a PC, go into control panel>printers and other hardware>game controllers, and click on the TE in the menu, and go into the properties. Check if the 4 button is being held down. This corresponds to the Y button on xbox 360 controllers. If this is so, something in the circuitry is causing a short between the Y signal and Ground, which is normal when you press the button. I’m a little stumped as to how this happened unless if somebody had modded it beforehand. Do the PC test, and tell us of the results.

Not to my knowledge, the item was listed as Mint / rarely used. When I first opened it up a lot of the glue/sticky stuff on the wires was still in place and I saw no marks on the alan key screws themselves when I opened it, making me think it hadn’t been touched before. I’m at work currently but I’ll let you know the results tonight, thanks for the suggestion, do I need any drivers to get the stick to work in my PC? I’m on vista 64.

Needs Xbox 360 Controller Drivers, but I believe those come pre-installed with Vista.

either way theres soldiering involved ill have to adjust ,what about the RJ-45 jack would i have to remove button or place a new hole in order for it to be usable?

If you are just dual modding ps3/xbox360 you dont need an RJ-45 jack…usb is just fine…

Kitty doesn’t require soldering. There’s a link to the installation instructions in the Kitty thread, so you can get an idea of what is needed to install it.

I’ve got the stick plugged into my pc and the #4 button is light up like it is pressed in, what should I do next?

Open up the top, check the color of the wires going to the Y button. Unplug one of that color wire from the distro block on the right. Plug it into a PC and check again. Chances are that the light will be off now, and come back on as soon as you plug the wire back into the distrobution block. If so, order a replacement OSBF-30 button to replace the bad button.

If the button still shows as lit on the PC after unplugging the wire from the distro block, things get complicated, and could require a tech to look at it hands on to determine where the short is and how to fix it.

Aw nuts, I’ve already disconnected the button and it’s still showing as pushed. What should I do next then? I’m not terribly good at repairing this sort of thing, for the moment I’ve just disconnected the Y and switched it with LB and play with 7 buttons but I’d rather get it fixed and working if possible.

Next step would be to unplug the ribbon cables connecting the main board to the distro block and retest. If the button is still lit, the shorts on the main board. If not, shorts on the distro block. Remove the board with the short, examine both sides (i.e. take good quality photos of both sides to post up), find the short and fix it. Most likely spot on the main TE board is the cap connecting Y to ground needs removed. Any short on the distro block should be easy to spot visually.