Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

hello im modding a hori ex2 fight stick and i wondering if a strained 18- gauge wire will be ok to use instead of solid wire, can somebody tell me if its gonna work/or be okay? cuz i dont want my PCB frying on me or something

Stranded wire is better than solid wire for soldering. It won’t kill your PCB, Solid wire is just one thick piece of copper, while stranded are several thinner strands of copper, or sometimes aluminum. In either case, the materials are that same. Solid wire is much harder to work with, because it bends into place, and it doesn’t hold solder as well as stranded wire.

However, 18 gauge is rather thick for use in an arcade stick, most modders use at least 22 gauge AWG, I used 28 gauge AWG in the last EX2 I repaired.

I think you should watch to learn how to solder in arcade sticks: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX1dZIC0Gp0

Almost always try to use 22 to 28 gauge wire. 18 would work but it is kinda thick.

That video was amazing! :slight_smile: the best i ever seen and i learned a lot from it as for the 18-gauge wire i got it off this guide right here:http://pineconeattack.com/2008/12/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-fighting-stick-ex2-with-authentic-arcade-parts-xbox-360-version/
and thats bassically my guideline

he wouldnt happen to have a video on dual modding would he?

I haven’t made a dual mod video, but I have written this guide: Dual modding 101

If you already have 18 gauge wire, it’ll work, but the thinner stuff will be easier to work with.

However, important to note, if you want to Dual Mod the EX2, you must replace the existing 360 PCB to do so. It is not common ground, so it can’t be used in a dual mod.

Ah I see you amazing man!!! I dont feel as lost thanks to you!

Help!!! = [
So I took off the bottom panel of a Chun li TE-S to put some artwork and plexi on the bottom. I didn’t notice when I was taking it apart, but one of the big thick screws that holds the rubber feet on is shorter than the other 3. Does that go in a certain hole? Worried if I put it in the wrong hole it will hit some plastic I’m not seeing and break something? Please help… = [

1000th post! yay!

anyways, that’s the screw for under the wire compartment if i remember correctly. just screw it in slowly, and if you feel resistance, its in the wrong hole (“that’s what she said!”) i put the wrong screw in the wrong hole and all it did push the top panel up a bit, no damage though…

Thanks a million!!! = D Got them all in.

If I had to guess I would say that a broken microswitch is unlikely. More likely IMO is that one of the wires running from the barrier strip to the PCB got sheared off in the impact. I had this happen to me naturally, i.e. non-impact related once. What you’re going to need to do to check for this is take the top panel off and then remove the turbo panel as well. There should be several grey ribbon cables. Make sure they’re all still 100% stuck to the PCB. If they’re not then the easiest thing to do is to solder a wire to the PCB where the ribbon cable came lose and then either put a quick disconnect on it (.110) or just solder it straight to the button. If that isn’t what happened then I’m out of ideas.

Woah, i’m having a hard time removing the screws in the V3 SA that hold the stick, any tips before I go rampage?

EDIT : Nvm made it.

hey im having trouble with artwork for my stick on photo shop cs5 i have the template i just dnt kno how to do nething with the layed does neone have a guid or something that could help me???

I’m not sure if there is anyone going through this, but I wanted to do a LED bubble top mod and was afraid to screw the bubble top up. It was damn easy, so I’d like to share a few learned lessons:

  • Use 3 mm LEDs. On a JLF hollow shaft there’s no need for grinding the LED rim, since it holds the LED in place.
  • Use a 9/64 drill bit. It leaves room enough to drill easily without risking ruining the thread and the hole fits the 3 mm LED nice.
  • Don’t be afraid of drilling. Just hold the bubble top on a vise and use a adjustable speed hand drill and go slowly. The metal and plastic will drill easily.
  • Drill in steps, take the drill bit out, clean the hole with a brush and/or blowing (careful with your eyes!).
  • Don’t forget to get deep enough into the plastic so the LED can get past the metal insert and illuminate properly.

Yes, it IS easy. Just be careful. :slight_smile:

Not sure if this is the right thread, so I’m counting on the mods to move this post if necessary. :slight_smile:

Here’s how I did it, I followed this flowchart:

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz354/darabidduckie/gummownedflowchart.png

Dremels are powerful beasts. I used it for drilling the buttons for fitting LEDs, routing my MDF top plate, sanding button holes to a proper fit, remove paint, cutting and sanding circuit board, but I’d not use it to drill a ball top unless it’s held in a vise. I can’t stop a Dremel as quickly as a hand drill if it gets caught while drilling. At 10,000 RPM it would shoot the ball top pretty hard.

Hello, I just got my first arcade stick today, a Tekken 6 wireless stick (cheapest I could find, not sure how much of an investment I wanted to put out there). I am using it to primarily play Marvel vs Capcom 3, and I am liking it alot. I was just wondering if any of the experts out there could give me some general advice on what to do/what not to do. Right now I am having trouble with the shoryuken motion and the backwards hadouken motion…

Best reply is, practice, practice and more practice. Going from a pad to stick is like relearning to walk. You use different muscles, tendons and joints in your hands and arms with a stick than you do with a game pad. Changing to as different gate does not help, I actually discourage switching to a octagon or circular gate until you become adjusted to a square gate first.

Thanks for the quick reply, yeah im getting on the whole practice practice thing… lol