Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Hay does anyone know how to set up a **GBS-8220. Does it go inside of the Wii, Or is it just a board that converts so systems can play older games. I’m trying to play Wii games on My ASUS moniter. And if the GBS-8220 is just a board is there some kind of case for it so I can keep it safe. **

Are you talking about this GBS-8220 (I had to google to see what your referring to).

If so that board does not go inside the Wii, these are originally intended for arcade cab use so there no housing for the board.
Now that is said, it still work for consoles and Monitors without the rest of the cab.

As a alternative there is also this cable for the Wii and PS3

I dont know of any protective production cases, but top and bottom protective plexis are easily available. I know arcadeforge.de sells them for one. Blklightning21 does plexi for arcade sticks, so if you had measurements or loaned him the board so he could take measurements, I’d bet he could do it as well.

the gbs-8220 is a scaler it doubles the lines so it can display properly on new lcds most classic systems saturn most ps2 games etc. display only 240 lines and a scaler will double the lines to 480. which is meant to be displayed for your hd monitor lcd. I own the GBS-8200 it quite a wonderful device a much better option than what Darksakul is referring too. If you wan to know how to connect your classic console check out the thread T-slg it is mention through out the thread but you must read through the thread

I have a question. I have a Madcatz TE 2nd round fight stick for PS3, but recently I have found need for a 360 stick as well, so I thought about dual modding my TE. After doing some research, switching the pcb for a PS360 (or something else maybe) seems to be the way to go, but since I’ve never modded my stick before I’m a bit worried about screwing up. How easy is this mod to perform, and are there any good guides here or somewhere else on the Internet? Grateful for any serious responses!


Thank you!

Ok one more noob question. I bought an SE shell and I am wondering what buttons i could use that will fit in the start and select hole. I was looking around etokki.com and I was wondering if any of these would work:

I have a question.

I want to use a Logitech USB PC game pad for fighters. Would anyone here recommend it and are there converters that do PC to PS3/360?

Have you tried measuring the diameter of the Start/Select holes in your case with a metric ruler to see if it is either 10 or 12mm wide?

Many generic PC controllers can actually work on PS3, so if you have access to a PS3, plug it in and see if it works. Otherwise, I don’t think there are any working adapters for PC USB controllers to PS3 or 360.

Far as I know there isn’t any PC USB to PS3 USB adapters. Controllers are ether PC USB, PS3 USB or Both.
There is supposedly one PS3 to Xbox 360 USB adapter that isn’t XCM check the Converter Compatibility thread

I did and i go 13mm so I wasn’t sure if that was correct so I wanted to ask.

It works on my PS3, but not on my 360. Which sucks, because the square stocks on the controller are perfect for fighters.

The A button was sticking. I pressed it harder…and then this happened! What can I do? Can I fix it?

You pressed it harder using a sledge hammer?

Replace it with a new Sanwa OBSF-30 button. You can do this by unscrewing the metal plate underneath the stick shell, though I find it’s best to use a hex key to remove the top plate as you have a lot more room to play with. Carefully take off the quick disconnects from the old button, snap in the new button, then reconnect the two wires.

Fix? No. Replace? Easily. All that is is an OBSF-30 Sanwa button, focusattack, lizardlick, akihabarashop all sell them.

LOL no, but I do hit the buttons hard when I play. I have big strong fingers. You know what they say about guys with big strong fingers, right? ;O

A 30mm White Sanwa button. OK. :slight_smile:

Yeah, I doubt i can fix that button :frowning: To me it looks like the Sanwa butons on the MVC3 TE have a 2-part outer ring around the button middle, possibly glued together. I think that the 2 parts of the outer ring of the Sanwa button came apart, letting the inner part of the button fall inwards.

Here is a closeup photo of the X button on that same MVC3 arcade stick. It is working just fine. But you can see a small crack where the 2 parts of the outer ring of the button meet.

And thanks for the websites.

Dude… that is not Halal.

The button shell which the plunger fits inside of should be a solid piece of plastic, not something in two parts. If they are cracking like that then they are either from a very bad batch of Sanwa buttons, they are fake Sanwa buttons, they have been smashed up way too hard, or Mad Catz are doing something quite dreadful to them in the factory.

Perhaps your ‘big strong fingers’ would be better suited to Seimitsu buttons.

The buttons were like that when I bought the stick. I ran my finger over that crack the day I bought it. I thought nothing of it though. I bought the TE at my local EB Games.

Greets all! First post, so I hope it’s not terribly noobish.

I’m a decently skilled woodworker, and I’m going to make nice hardwood PS3/PC fight sticks for myself and my fiance for X-mas. I ordered Sanwa sticks and Seimitsu buttons with a Cthulhu Multi. I went with all screw on buttons because the top of my box is going to be wood, and I’m honestly not sure what thickness I need for the pop in buttons.

So I have a couple questions, first of which is…what thickness do I need for the Pop In buttons if I decide to go that route in the future? I’m sure once my friends see these sticks, I’ll be requested to make more, and I might want to switch to Sanwa buttons in the future.

Next question, is there a guide somewhere showing how the control surface is layered? To clarify, I’m thinking about putting an acrylic/lexan/plexi whatever top on my controller, with interchangeable artwork like I see so many people do…but with a weekend of poking around, I’ve not seen any specifics as to how thick of acrylic top I can go with, or how they are layered on the wood with the artwork, how thick of wood I can go with, etc. I’d hate to guess and test and waste time and money on plexi and wood only to find I made stuff too thick or thin or something.

I’m good with wiring, and I found the Cthulhu guide, I’ve got all the parts on order, I know woodworking enough and I have the tools to make the box…so really the only things I’m unsure of is how the control surfaces are made/layered.

Thanks in advance!