Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Thanks, that actually makes sense. Still don’t understand the specific example from the poster though, why there would be a difference between training and arcade mode. I mean in both modes you are controlling a fighter, it sounds weird that the game would register inputs in different ways depending on if you’re in training or arcade mode.

I was pretty dumbfounded, and pretty frustrated as I tried all these ways to fix it and tested them in training mode each time. Considering the temporary solution and the recent patch that includes the option of unassigning LT and RT, maybe it’s something to do with the updated code not including training mode in some way.

Yo! I have a WWE brawlstick and I was wondering what mm ball top i shoud use for it. I assume its the 30mm but i wasnt sure…can anyone help?

Use any size you want.
35mm is standard.

Ok sweet thanks. one more question, but this might be the wrong thread for it…is there a tutorial somewhere that can show me how to make my 360 stick also compatible for the PS3?

As far as I know Toodles’ ChImp and ChImpSMD are the only ones that currently work out with Brawlsticks, The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!. If you’ve never soldered/done wiring before you’ll probably want to see if there’s a modder in your area who can do it for you.

Well if american sticks is what you are used to then it is possible to use it inside your TE.

This however requires modifications to the stick.
see here TUTORIAL- How to Mount a Happ Arcade Stick in a <3" case

the reason I am laughing is because i had the exact same problem.
Let me explain, I was at devestation and i was playing perfectly fine on my dual modded V3 SA with a madcatz fightpad. It was working great and after playing on some games the second day i unplugged it from one xbox 360 and plugged it into another and all of a sudden my jump kept going off. I did some tests and it was just stuck on jump for some reason, no matter what i did it was stay stuck on up, At this point i was thinking i was a dumb ass so lucky I was at a table with your finest modders(this including J & J & J, Toodles, and Gummo).
I had Gummo look at the stick and he tried using resisters and some other tricks to pull the voltage on up back up to where it was supposed to be but nothing worked.
The only thing that stopped it from staying stuck in up was to disconnect the wire from up.
It was funny because Joe said if he did not get to see that in person that he would have called bullshit hahahaha.
So long story short somehow some way the down on your pcb got fried just like the up on my pcb. No idea how but it did. I had to replace my pad all together so that would be my suggestion.
Hope that helps

I had my Madcatz TE round 1 stick dual-modded recently so I could play on PS3 as well. But, the plastic tabs that keep the ‘motherboard’ (Dunno what the card is actually called, but everything in the stick is connected to it) broke off and it’s been difficult to keep in place. It came loose one day, and the pins lost contact with the dual-mod card underneath. And after trying to put it back in place, I distinctly heard something ‘pop’ and something smolder.

I just need to know what that card is called, so I can order a new one.

Means you have a TEasy Strike.

I don’t know if they are in stock or not.
But I think that if you ask Phreakazoid, he will give you replacement Tabs.

Thanks for the reply. I’m sad now. I don’t want to use one of my boards on my own stick. :frowning:

Wait what… OK hang on.

First thing to do is remove the TE PCB entirely from the TEasy Strike, and inspect BOTH boards for things like black marks or components that looks melted/burnt… specifically the big black capacitor on my TEasy Strike and any capacitors on the TE PCB. If you heard anything pop it’s probably because you were trying to re-align and attach them while it was plugged in… a big no no, never re-attach wires when things are plugged in. A pop like that could be a bunch of things, some very bad.

After inspecting them for things like big black marks, if you find nothing wrong visually, I want you to leave the TE board unclipped and away from the TEasy, then plug in your TEasy to your PC with the game controller applet up to see if it comes up. Don’t worry about checking the buttons/directions, I just want you to verify it’s even recognized still.

If you get to that, and the board is recognized, email me clayton(at)phreakmods.com with your address and I’ll get you new corner clips to replace your current ones.

After it broke the first time, you should have emailed me/posted in my thread about it, I would have sent you a new set + extras, since you can’t just buy the tabs off the shelf.

Yeah, I can understand that. I’m going to attempt to dual mod my stick as soon as all the stuff I’ve ordered arrives, the things you described sound like my worst nightmares come true…

I have a question. I have a modded Street Fighter IV SE fightstick full sanwa. I haven’t played in a while, and when I decided to play UMVC3, the joystick didn’t work properly. moving left and right and down+left and down+right would work, but up and down would not. eventually, after fiddling around with it, the whole joystick would not respond anymore, but the buttons do work (all of them). I tried to replace the joystick, and I made sure there wasn’t any loose connections within the stick itself. This did not do anything, and I got the same results. Is there a way to fix this issue? All of my parts are Sanwa. I do not believe that it is the parts itself, but I think it is the original PCB that is broken. I need help ASAP, so I can take down Galactus.

This question has probably been asked a bunch before, so feel free to ridicule me as necessary.

My JLFs get more and more wiggly over. Like the switches work just fine, it just doesn’t return to center as well as new. I tried replacing the spring but that didn’t seem to help when I tried it. Can I buy a little piece to fix it or does it need a whole new JLF?

Time for another question (hopefully a pretty simple one). I tried searching google already but couldn’t find an answer. Is it a bad idea to solder a new wire on to a point on a pcb that another wire is already soldered on to without first desoldering? Like, can I use the already existing solder to attach one more wire or should I always first desolder the old stuff and then solder on the two wires with new solder?

the screw holding down the plexiglass on my MC TE are stripped is there anyone that has dealth with this issue and if so how did they resolve it? i know i can cut the top portion of the screws to remove the plexi then unscrew the left over studs but i dont want to damage the original artwork that came with it. any suggestions? much appreciated

I was thinking about trying to get someone to dual-mod my PS3 TE stick and was wondering what an average price for getting that done would be or would it just be a better idea for me to do it myself.

The price of getting a modder to dual-mod for you varries wildly from modder to modder, for everyone charged different rates for labor not including part and material costs. The method taken to mod your PS3 TE also effects the cost (the parts used to add the 2nd system board and such). You can ether check the trading post for threads modders posted for services or use theNeed a Modder in Your Area?thread for a modder closer to you.

PS3 TE Dual-mod can be tricky especially to first timers. Shop around

Is there any guide out there for the removal of the white side-bars on an original MadCatz TE stick?

You can remove them, but I’m pretty sure there will be a hole in there place. I wouldn’t advise it, although I do know a few sites offered wooden TE-S style sides if you really wanted to replace the larger ones.