You can paint them any color you want.
Not sure if this is the right place to ask or if this has even been asked recently but I was just wondering, is now a good time to buy a stick? I have a TE Round 2 and i’ve had it for awhile, pretty nice stick, served me well, still works and all, but I need to either dual mod it or buy a new dual modded stick.
Anyway the reason i’m asking is because it seems stick technology is advancing quite a lot in recent times, detachable cords, detachable sticks, silent buttons, better buttons, more concise and higher quality sticks all around. I don’t keep up with the tech side of things, and I don’t need a dual modded stick for a while ( going to wait until i’m a bit more competitive before I start heading out to tournaments ), so i’m just wondering, should I wait? Are there new additions being made to sticks that I should wait for?
TL;DR - Looking to buy a new stick, but unsure if I should wait till the newer upgrades to sticks are available ( if theres any more waiting to even be had ) or if I can just go ahead and get a Q4RAF or something.
Eh, I’d say the best time to buy sticks was late 2010, there were practically monthly giveaways from Madcatz for $100 TEs and buy one get one offers.
Regardless, most of these things can be solidly implemented in any TE. The community is aware of the amount of TEs out there, and pretty much every product available will work with a TE. Yes, there are new buttons, but they’re standard 30mm buttons, easily swappable into a TE. The TE uses Universal Mounting Brackets, so all joysticks fit into it as well.
Dual mods have become practically DIY in the TE for even people without any modding experience. The TEasy Strike and TE kitty make it possible to dual mod the TE with little more than a screwdriver and an Allen wrench.
Detachable cables are easy to do, as well.
I think, given your wants, there’s no reason that you need a new stick. Just contact a reputable modder and tell them what you want in your TE. Depending on how much you want, yes, it may cost more than a new stick (e.g. Multi-Console Cthulhu install with multiple detachable cables, advanced LED mods, or wireless mods). However, the dual modded Qanba/eightarc sticks are functionally identical to the TE, they use the same Sanwa buttons and joystick, the only major difference is coming with a dual mod. However, if you can find a local modder, they can probably dual mod your TE for less than the cost of a new stick.
Also, if your TE is xbox 360, a dual mod will auto-detect console, so long as the modder uses the ChImp PCB, which pretty much all 360 TE mods use, or if you use the TE kitty/TEasy Strike, while all the pre-dual modded sticks on the market (aside from custom builds) require you to hold a button to switch console.
As an addendum to Nerrage’s post, yes, there is new stuff coming out soon. Madcatz just announced a brand new stick for SFxT and another run of the SFxT sticks that were released already(black this time). We haven’t heard anything in a long time, but Razor might be making a stick, too. I’m in the same boat as you, and I’ve been waiting. I don’t really need a new stick, either, but I want to do an LED mod and I can’t bring myself to spend all that money on a beat up 2 year old TE case.
Thanks for the advice, and I actually did get my TE back in late '10 for pretty cheap. But anyway price isn’t really a concern for me, i’m probably going to get a new one regardless, just a question of when/if I should wait. Reason being is that the TE is huge and a pain to lug around, not very aesthetically pleasing ( compared to other sticks ), and my TE in general is pretty beat up. Its scratched up ( not very badly, but it is ), the panel is stained in blood, sweat, and semen, and the compartment that holds my cable has been knocked off ( the front panel of my stick ). Of course, none of these are really a real reason to get a new stick, I kind of just want one for convenience sake. I’ll probably even end up pawning off my old TE on to a friend for like half price.
But yea, way too lazy to do the research/put in the effort of upgrading a beat up TE, thanks for the advice though, much appreciated.
Well, if you want to look for a new stick, all the research is laid out here: What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting
The Qanba sticks come with handles and dual modded, making them a bit easier to take around.
What a friend you are. Maybe you should blacklight LED mod it.
At the time being, though, it doesn’t look as strong of a buyer’s market as it did in '10. I think it was mostly caused by the massive production amounts to meet the demand '09 for SFIV, being left with a lot extra when the market cooled down, and they just needed to get old stock out.
I do feel that there are a lot of high quality sticks being pumped out right now, though, so price may dip somewhere in the future. Purely speculation, though.
The joystick in my ChImpSMD dual-modded HRAP VX-SA is all-of-a-sudden giving me issues when pulling it down, down-forward, or down-backward. The best way I can describe it is “twitchy.” It will read my inputs most of the time, but they come out really spastic.
After talking with a friend, he says he believes the JLF harness is the issue. If it is, is there any way I can fix it?
I have a tournament this Saturday, so I won’t be able to order and receive a new one in time.
**I’m having this problem while playing on my 360, but I see the same twitchiness when I plug it into my computer.
Regarding the TE “Wings”, actually, there’s something I’ve been wondering: Are the R1 TE white side wings mounted indentically to the flat sides on later models? Like, if you took the wings off entirely, could you take the flat side panels off of another and swap them? Are the flat sides even a removable part? The wood replacement’s obviously the easier option; this is more just curiosity.
Actually, the harnesses in the VX-SA is the official Sanwa harness, it’s not like the TE, which doesn’t use the real harness.
I would say it could be your microswitch of your JLF. Do you happen to have a spare JLF or TE or something you could swap joysticks from?
I think if it’s all caused whenever using the down direction, then the microswitch for the down direction may be at fault. I’d replace the joystick or TP-MA PCB, but if you can’t get your hands onto one to borrow, then it may be tough to make your tournament.
Wait, what? Silent buttons? What did I miss? Would love to stop telegraphing handslaps.
Thanks man. I realize I’m late to the party, but I’m happy dancing in my head already
I’m having a weird problem with my JLF. Was playing KOF XIII and trying to block down right but it wasn’t working. The input registered fine but it wouldn’t hold the position for some reason. It would register the input and seemingly, immediately release it and i’d get hit. All other directions seem to work fine. Just the combination of down and right.
I’m thinking their maybe a short but I can’t figure out why/how. It’s brand new.
ok so im liking the look of the madcatz te round 2, but i keep seeing that there is some technical issue when trying to play with the ps3 version on the pc?
Yes, the TE Round 2 PCB does not work on all Chipsets for all PCs.
That said, though, newer PS3 TEs, the Chun-Li, the MLG, the Namco Limited, the Soul Calibur 5, work on all PCs on all Operating systems as a UHID, like a mouse or keyboard.
Hey, the joystick on my TE-S is getting a little loose – there is a substantial “dead zone” in the centre where the spring doesn’t snap the stick back yet, and where none of the switches are triggered. I’m sure there’s a proper name for this, but ya, basically the stick flops around a bit in the middle. It’s not really a problem once you start playing, but it’s kind of irritating nonetheless.
A friend of mine had some extra JLF springs around and I tried replacing mine with one of them. It changed the overall tension, but that dead zone still stayed the same, so I’m guessing there’s something else that’s been worn out somewhere. Any thoughts?
Actually, deadzone is the correct term for the area where the stick can be wiggled, but doesn’t engage.
Try replacing your TP-MA microswitch PCB. Those are the switches that handle everything. If they start to actuate lower than normal, then they’ve become a bit worn out, and that causes the distance for you to press the joystick to be longer. They also are part of the resistance of the joystick, because you press against them, and they push back.
When doing a dual mod on a PS3 TE, or any particular ps3 stick, what is the best pcb for the job?
And where would you recommend buying it from?
Madcatz Fightpad/BrawlPad or Madcatz model 4716. You can find the BrawlPad for $20 at GameStop if you’re lucky. 4716 is easier to find online, though. But 4716 requires you to Invert the Triggers, or neutralize them if only using 6 buttons.
Then you will need a Switch. Usually an Imp or a DPDT switch. Imp can be ordered from godlikecontrols.com, DPDT can be found at an average RadioShack.
I modded yours with a FightPad and a DPDT.