Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Looks like it jumps from where R8 is at the right of the PCB to the fat common ground line running round the perimeter of the board.

But yeah, there’s no substitute for a multimeter.

I have a soldering gun would that helped?

For soldering? Yep, if you know how to use it.

To understand that, you’d have to understand the basics of signals. Each of the inputs have a portion where it consists of a signal, and a ground point. When you press a button, it connects/shorts the input and ground point together resulting in an input of that button. From that pcb, see the two sets of metal pads which would be behind where the button would be, those are your signal + ground pads
Common Line pcbs mean that a ground from one button, lets say X, cannot be used for the ground for R1. Each of the button inputs have a separate ground or group of grounds with respect to which they activate. This means its harder to 1) Dual mod and 2) wire up because you’d either have to find out which lines are common with which or solder 1 signal per ground respectively for every single input.
Common Ground pcbs mean that every single ground input, regardless of which signal, X and R1 again, would work to activate that signal. This would result in a easier time to wire up and less soldering since you can just daisy chain the grounds together and use only one ground point and one wire for every input you’d have.

Hopefully this helps

yea I did look at a few vids but none of them actually did this controller so I’m guess I’m stuck until I get an official controller ;-3-

If you weren’t confident about it then you could get a local modder to do it for you.

Do you have a mulitmeter to test this board with at all?

So I assuming your saying that I’m out of luck sigh guess there’s no point for doing this controller ;-_-

no you can use it
you can use any controller you want to as long as you do it right

sigh -_- nope

so I put in my name and state or what?

The thread is pretty self explanatory.

Post a request saying what you want and what state you’re in, or contact one of the modders yourself listed in the first post.

Got it thanks guys :slight_smile:

I’m currently planning my first custom arcade stick and I’ve found a PS1 Digital M controller in my basement. Would I be able to use this to make a PS3 and/or PC compatible arcade stick?

if you have a PS2/PS3/PC converter then yes you can. something like the sumoto or inpin converter would do

Hi Guys. I just got a new HORI stick - Real Arcade Pro V3-SA. I was trying some stuff out in training mode and i noticed something. I am able to keep a button pressed, input the motion of the special move on the stick and then let go of the button and the move will come out, however the button doesnt appear in the input on the side… is this normal? is my stick malfunctioning?? Thank you.

That is called Negative Edge.
It is in the game.

That’s great to hear, thank you!

Is the plexi glass panel for the Chun-Li Fightstick TE-S the same as the regular TE-S?

No it is not.
In stock form, the TE “S” uses Full TE Acrylic.
In stock form, the Chun-Li TE uses Regular TE Acrylic.

If you remove the TE “S” art, you can use Full TE Acrylic.
If you remove the TE “S” art, you can use Extended TE Acrylic.
If you remove the TE “S” art and add Bezel, you can use Regular TE Acrylic.

If you remove Chun-Li art and Bezel, you can use Extended TE Acrylic.
If you remove Chun-Li art and Bezel, you can use Full TE Acrylic.