Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

The Agetec PCB is common ground, so you should be able to dual mod it with the Cthulhu.

The Sega DC pad is laggy and should not be used in a Dual mod.

Thank you.
Looking up dual mod tutorials now.

this should help… Doubt you’ll find tutorials though, its not a very common mod

You may find it much easier and neater to simply upgrade your existing Cthulhu to a Multi Console Cthulhu.

The upgrade costs $12 + shipping from godlikecontrols.com.

That is what I have. I couldn’t find any information about putting a DC cable on it though. Info?

EDIT:
LMAO totally forgot I asked here

It’s for RJ45 cables but also includes the pinout for a MC Cthulhu.

Has anyone posted anything about dual-modding the Hori SCV stick? Like what PCB to use, how to do it, and stuff like that?

There should be a Hori SCV thread on here with some details about the pcb it has. As for dual modding it, any of the options available can be used to dual mod it.

The Hori SCV stick was relatively easy to go at blind, trying to figure out which signals were the Select/Home buttons were the only pains, means they’re not labeled. I know I posted where the pins were that you needed to get to in the Hori SCV thread, like Jamin said

Maybe I missed it, but is there a thread on switching buttons on a stick?

Hey guys, I’m not sure where to ask this because I don’t really have a question about modding, but this thread says ask your questions here, so I guess this is where I ask. This question is for people who have owned and used a lot of sanwa sticks for a while. Is it normal for your stick to have a little bit of wiggle room at neutral? Its a really small distance that it can go, but if feels a little looser than when I actually move the stick and activate the micro switches. I can’t really notice it when I am playing, but I am just wondering if everyone has a little wiggle room in the center of the stick. Thanks in advance.

Yes.

Probably - but its pretty straight forward. just dont break the tabs. sometimes easier said than done.

Alas, this will be my first stick mod. Would be nice to have walkthrough.

Ok thank you. I’d be pretty disappointed if my stick was having small problems when I’ve only had it for around 6 months. I guess I shouldn’t be as worried though. I mean, it has parts that were in arcades and they can probably take 4 times the wear and tear I give it.

Kinda depends on which stick you have… but if it’s something that’s mass produced (TE, TE-S, ect) and not custom it likely uses quick disconnects and snap-in buttons.

Since it’s your first time I’d suggest doing the “one at a time” method so you don’t mix anything up and end up having to troubleshoot.

Basically:

  1. Open stick
  2. Locate buttons to be replaced
  3. Pull one disconnect off a single button (there are two) by pinching the quick disconnect with one hand and the bottom of the button with the other then pulling.
  4. Pull steadily until it comes off (DON’T WIGGLE) if you try to wiggle the connector back and forth too much you may end up snapping the prong off the back of the button.
  5. Repeat 3-4 for the second prong on the button
  6. Set wires aside to allow room to access button
  7. Locate the pinch mechanism on the button (there are two and it’s what holds the button up against the panel)
  8. Squeeze both at the same time while pushing the button towards the top of the panel (pushing the button outward) (This typically requires a LOT of force, and you may need to use a flat head screwdriver)
  9. Set loose button aside
  10. Locate the new button you are installing and push it in the panel from the top side moving downwards (snap in) or drop it in and screw the nut in from the bottom side (screw in)
  11. With the snap in you just push down hard until you hear a solid sounding snap, with the screw in you just tighten the nut until it’s firm (make sure the bumpy/poky side of the nut is facing upwards)
  12. Locate each of the wires you pulled previously and install them back on the new button’s prongs by pushing the quick disconnects on (these don’t have polarity so you can’t mixup signal and ground…)

If you just go one button at a time it’s virtually error proof since there is no polarity involved with the button’s prongs.

Danke.

No problem,

Just post in here if you run into any issues.

Port forwarding question.

So I’ve done this:
http://portforward.com/english/routers/port_forwarding/Netgear/WNR2000/GGPO.htm

My ports are all correct, they’re all static… I test my connection on PS3 and I get a Type 2 NAT, so I should theoretically be fine…

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/10058675/Fack.jpg

Looks, correct, yes? They’re both set on TCP/UDP

BUT… every time I go into MvCO or 3S… I get Type 1NAS… WTF!!!
GAHMOTHERFUCKER

Type 1 (directly connected to internet) and 2 (connected to internet through a router/modem) are fine. Its Type 3 is the one you don’t want.