Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Hey whats up guys, I just me a pair of PDP AfterGlow Wired Headsets ( I shouldve gotten the wireless ones but I was to impatient to wait LOL ) and I was wondering… HOW do I connect this thing to an ASUS monitor ( for tourneys ) without using up the Headphone jack and taking all the sound? Ive seen Mixamps being used but thats like 3 USB ports Im using up already ( headset,mixamp and Stick ) and since MOST tourneys use ASUS monitors has anyone overcome this?

EDIT! NVM I got the wireless headset now but still how can I connect it to an asus/console without stealing all the sound ?

Same problem here. I’ve tested everything with a multimeter and done a lot of re-wiring but I can’t figure it out. I’m using a DPDT switch instead of an Imp though. The strange thing is, it just started happening randomly. One day it worked, the next it didn’t.

Sup Tech Talk , its been a long time since I was on here so I am a little out of touch with some of this newer technology. I recently started building custom sticks again and I have ran into a problem. The inside of my new stick has a 360 PCB from a Madcatz Brawl Stick, a Chimp SMD, and a old FGWidget with some KNserts Ver 1.4 I have had laying around for a few year or two. I want 8 buttons to light up and the joystck. The problem I am having is whenever I connect the joystick to the FGWidget I lose the down input on the joystick. When I disconnect the joystick to the FGWidget it comes back. I messed with it all day yesterday and even tried a different FGWidget. Anybody have a idea what I should try to resolve this or have encountered a similar problem?

Does anyone know if a PS3 DS3 willl work without a battery in it, just the USB cable?
The battery is only for the wireless single or am I wrong?

Double check the D- and D+ lines out your USB connections. They are the Green and White wires.

Many tourneys do not use the monitors built in speakers, they use a PC Speaker set with a y adapter for head phones. You can connect this to the audio jack on your PC or get a adapter to use the analog sound from your game console.

Pics of the wiring might help, maybe one of us can pick out something you might have missed.

Yes. The Six Axis and Dual Shock 3 controllers will work if powered by USB. What do you have in mind?
If you are trying to make the pad tournament legal, removing the battery alone would not work as the pad still synch via bluetooth.
You also have to disable it’s internal Bluetooth chip. I can’t tell you how it is done, but I know a Modder do does this mod.

In my opinion, you should save for a better stick. Zippy switches suck and there are other design flaws in that case. I would try to find a seller in the trading section who is willing to ship internationally.

Contact one of the modders that are in Canada. They might be able to fix it or mod any stick to work on ps2.
Need a Modder/Builder in Your Area? Check This Post.

That article is incorrect regarding 360. In that instructable they are using the Teensy as a snes->usb converter. The linked article assumed that since its turned into a usb controller then it would work on any device that uses usb controllers.

The Teensy board could still be used in dual mods however. It could be programmed as a usb controller board. You could use it to dual mod a 360 stick to work on ps3, but it would still need extra stuff to do system switching. You could think of it like the original Cthulhu board, but smaller.

You need to wire up the back button’s signal wire to the 3punch button’s signal wire. Each button has two wires; a ground wire and a signal wire. If you tried and failed then you either wired the ground wire from the back button to either wire on the 3punch button or you wired the back signal to the ground wire on the 3punch button.

You don’t need the imp board if you aren’t going to dual mod it with a 360 board too. If all you want is its original wii function + PS3/PC, then all you need to buy is the Cthulhu. Just wire up all the button signals of the TvC stick to the Cthulhu and wire up the Vcc and ground from the TvC stick to the Cthulhu.

I think I might of had a problem similar to yours a long time ago. I’m sorry I can’t remember what exactly I did to fix it, but if I had to say off the top of my head I put a 10k resistor between Vcc and the direction’s signal line.

Yes, it will still work without a battery and just using the usb cable. It will communicate with the ps3 via usb protocol and not over bluetooth.

I double checked, the Tessey can not do Xbox 360. Xbox 360 controllers have an additional security chip to prevent unauthorized controllers from being used.
Turns out the author of that article understands nothing about Teensy, and is blowing smoke up everyone’s ass. The guy saw USB and assumed that it work for the Xbox 360.

You do not need the Imp, thats for PS3 and Xbox 360 dual mods. For PS3 and Wii compatibility you need a PS3 board like the Cthulhu and you need to do the 2 golden rules for any dual mod.

Both boards needed to be connected to power, both needed to be connected to ground.

Head to theInfo Thread: Rules, FAQs and Tutorials Inside Thread and look for the dual-mod Guide.

You need a adapter, you can get a PS2 to jamma adapter from ether etokki.com or godlikecontrols.com.

Is it the LS-32 or the LS-32-1 ?
The VCC is Power (+5 volts) you do not need it for the LS-32.

Canadianjoysticks.com

save for a better stick.

Each button has a ground and signal wire. You want to swap the wire that is the signal.
Yes Eight Arc is made by Qanba.

LS-32.
I checked and its just ground one way and plug the other in the respective microswith
I think I can do it!

Can I use the VCC to power up some leds to illuminate inside the arcade?

Yes you can, that is how everyone else does it. Make sure you stick to 5v LEDs and get ether some resistors to protect your LEDs or a LED controller board.

There are also specialized LED board to insert smd sized LEDs inside of transparent arcade buttons.

Oh So you figured out how the stick gets wired. Sorry I did not get in more detail. My Best advice is take you time with the joystick.
Remember Com is common or ground on the microswitches, chain your grounds to each com. The other tab you want is NO or Normally Open, this is where your signal line goes.
NC is normally closed, that side of the switch you want to circuit to be closed (or powered on) for circuits that need to stay on until that switch is pressed.
move the joystick level to the direction you want to go and take note of what switch is being engaged. That way you know which switch is for up, down left and right.
If you have to take notes or even draw a sketch of what is going on.

Thank you so much for all the help, it really helps me a lot.

I just want to use 4 leds to give some light to the inside of the arcade, so I have the VCC + 5v LED + Resistor is all I need.

Thank for the tips into wiring the joystick, I think the only “problem” now it’s making the “crimps” not so lame.
Thank you a lot, sir.

Thanks guys I will try the resistor and snap a pic of my messy wiring :slight_smile:

Hello again, guys
I was reading some posts in other places and I come to read that LS-32 isn’t a “good” stick.
Is that right or it’s just a matter to know how to use it?

In other hands, what is the better stick in market now?
the better sanwa and seimitsu?

Thanks in advance.

hey guys,

I have a Hori RAP3 that needs the front bolts and bottom screws,

any idea on where i can get these?

Does any one know the exact size of the home turbo etc. buttons on a hrap3, am trying to get my ps360 PCB, but am looing for the possibility of get them replaced?

Here is a pic of my Brawl Stick PCB that has the problems with the directional inputs not working when hooked up to a FGWidget. The Home/Guide button doesnt work either. Can anyone tell me if I soldered to the wrong point? I originally posted my problems a few days ago. Any help would be appreciated. :slight_smile:

I think your home wire is soldered to the wrong pin on the brawl stick pcb. From what I see its soldered to the 3rd pin? If so. that’s the turbo pin. The home pin is the second pin. Also, your select button won’t work on on 360 side either. You need to solder it to the pin on the very bottom right pin on the board in the picture. Its right below the pin labeled P00.

Thank you so much Gummowned! Yes, It is soldered to the 3rd pin. I will fix that. You are correct select doesnt work in 360 mode, I saw your post in another thread about the P00 pin yesterday so I will correct that too. Going to pick up some 10k restistors this weekend and see if that will fix the directional inputs problem too. If all goes well I should be posting my new custom this weekend! God I love SRK and the FGC, so much knowledge and awesome people.

hi

on my round 2 te stick one of the hex screws just turns ad turns, i believe its because the nut that it goes in to on the underside has fallen off.

what size nut do i need for the hex scre to go in to?

Hello, need help with connecting headsets.

I have a fat ps3 and need two more usb ports to power up two headsets. I’ve looked at multiple usb adaptors but do they work?

At EVO 2k12 all the stations had head phones with usb adaptors. Some people stated that there was sound lag and some game lag. So what’s the best way to do it? What adaptors did they use? How did they do 4 controllers to play SFxT teams without lag? Thanks.

Hey guys. I’m modding my MK PDP stick (not the classic version). Here’s a pick of the inside: http://quartercircleback.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/mkstick03articleimage.jpg

I’d like to replace the PCB that’s currently inside with a PS360+. I think there’s room and I don’t think there will be problems with mounting it, but its the select, start, home, r2, l2 buttons (which seem to be directly above where the PCB is) and I don’t see any wires.

Has anyone modded this stick yet and can tell me what to expect? I also want to switch r1 and r2 so that the button down and left of the “cross” buttons is throw. Just looking to find out if the smaller buttons (sel, start, r2, l2) have wires or if they are connected some other way to the PCB.