Im not even a woman. Anyways, how are you able to control the directions along with the RS? Doesnt the switch cut the connections for the directions? Also seems like a waste to trash a perfectly good TE board with working turbo panel.
Bump. I had some bare wires in my TE stick. I was testing buttons with the TE turned on, I think a wire came in contact with something it shouldn’t have, and possibly short circuited. I’m not getting any power to the TE. Any recommendations? Anyone?
Let me get this straight, Your TE is not getting any power. if you have a Xbox 360 TE, make sure the breakaway cable is firmly in place.
Also are you wrapping your USB cable around the stick when it is not in use?
This sounds like a broken USB cable.
In the process of moving, I seem to have lost my Agetec cable for the stick I was working on.
Question: Can I pull a cord from a regular Dreamcast cable and plug it into the agetec? Any diagrams on doing so, so that I line the wires up properly?
Is there some sort of universal plug I can use to just plug it in, or will I have to solder?
Also, I was planning on taking my SFAC stick and putting a Dual Shock and MadCatz DC pad in there. In the last 8 years since I’ve done this, I’ve forgotten how to do this, mostly because I only did it once before…
How do I put them together? I can’t remember for shit how to dual mod, and I don’t want to risk fucking it up, as the DC pad is hard to find these days.
well I had the same thought, then I had some left over resistors from the failed trigger attempt. I connected the RS point to the resistor and the red tag button, and the other I connected to the directional stick. So the red button acts as the switch, enabling a tag button while moving the stick which you would be doing any way to make a move … smart huh ! As far as wasting the turbo , the board is perfectly usable, a wire and a button placed in the best location, now enables a turbo button on RebeLBrain ed. fightstick. DIY’s finest
Thank you !
Yes you can use a cable from another DC controller, DC controller extension cables will work as well. The Pin assignments are on RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2
You can also use the work log I did 2 years ago for my own Dreamcast Agetec mod
Protip: Do not rely on the wire colors always to be the same for each cable, with a multimeter test each in and write down which pin is connected to which color of wire.
Anything on the dual mod?
[Info Thread: Rules, FAQs and Tutorials Inside. (READ THIS BEFORE HITTING THAT NEW THREAD BUTTON!)](Info Thread: Rules, FAQs and Tutorials Inside. (READ THIS BEFORE HITTING THAT NEW THREAD BUTTON!) Which Leads to -> [Dual Modding 101](Dual modding 101
Though I get this…
Thanks, Yes i checked the power cable, and the breakaway cable. I don’t wrap the cord around the stick. You see, i was simply stripping button wires to test out some different buttons, and i was doing this with the Xbox 360 TE turned on, and it was working fine. i wiggled n jiggled every single wire in the stick and im getting nothing. what i’m wondering is if one of the bare wires came in contact with a PCB could i have fried something? and if so, am i screwed? what next?
I have a 1st batch round 1 PS3 TE that randomly stops working. It only started happening recently and has been working strong for 3+ years.
What happens is that at any time, it will stop taking button inputs as well as stick inputs. The home button is still responsive. If I unplug it and try it again, it will work, but will inevitable fail again at some point. Is the best option here to just get a new PCB? TIA
Thanks, I’ll certainly look into that! But, somehow, my stick is working again. I let it sit for awhile after putting new tabs in. Just today I plugged it in and ran it through its paces with 3rd Strike. And it worked! Considering I’ve punched the face-plate enough times for it to have a fist-sized dent in the corner, and I’ve spiked it twice from a standing height (me being 6’ 8) in a salty rage. I’m amazed it turned on.
If could be the PCB thats fried, but get a multi-meter and check the USB cord anyways.
The Round 1 TE is the one TE with the most issues, but mad catz did learn from their mistakes.
You might want to look into a new PCB.
And your stick is still in 1 piece?
Hello oh wise and erudite ones. This humble noob seeks yet more answers…
I’ve done the Datel/Mayflash mod and installed a JLF-TP-8Y. I recently got a SFIV TE round 1 2nd hand. The stick on the SFIV TE is much looser than the one on my modded Datel.
I’m wondering if this is because it’s just old or do Sanwa sticks vary in looseness between different models?
A well used JLF can seem a little lose compared to a new one. A simple new spring can fix the tension issues.
I am thinking about adding custom artwork to my TE-S stick and I would like to use the galaxy art I found here:
Is the picture quality good enough to be printed for an arcade stick? I’m terrible with Photoshop so I don’t know how to edit the art if I have to.
Prices for most parts seem to be more expensive on Gremlin Solutions new site ‘Arcadeworlduk’
I plan on buying some buttons and stick tomorrow evening from them. I’m hoping Gremlin still works - I’m not paying the higher price on the new site that’s for sure. Parts are hardly cheap on Gremlin as it is anyway.
Identical items work out…
Might not seem a big difference to some people but to me it matters quite a bit.
The surface mount resistor underneath my Up part of my TE pcb broke clean off somehow…My stick won’t register up anymore. Is there any way to fix this?
That isn’t a Mad Catz TE template, that image* as-is* not going to work. You have to find the original source art and a Mad Cat TE template.
You might have to hire someone to make the image for you.
And your Question is what exactly?
You broke the circuit, and by that I mean you cut off the path for electricity to flow. Think of electrical traces and wire like self-sealing plumbing (No leaks). You just remove a section of pipe so the electricity will not go anywhere. Resistors are alot like reducers in plumbing, reducing the amount of current in the pipe or in your PCB case wire.
You will have to Solder a new resistor. Do not ask me what value resistor to use as I do not know off the top of my head. If you still have the surface mount resistor you can see what the value is.
Not sure myself to be honest. Add a ‘Why?’ in there and that’s pretty much it.