Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Yes this have been done many times before.
Are you modding a Hitbox for the Xbox 360?

You need to ask Akihabara shop. The front page of their website is providing all the information I could give you at the moment.

I’m having issues connecting my PS360+ with the TTT2 TE. I have LP MP LK MK hooked together from the first 5 pin on the board but the second pin for the other buttons including start and select are not working

I am thinking that the ground is not connected from the second 5 pin so I hooked the red wire on the second 5 pin to the board and still no contacts register

Any Ideas?

Later TEs have a tournament lock for start and select. The ground for the Start and Select (kgnd) is separate from the normal ground everything else uses.
You either have to bridge the KGND and GND together with some wire and solder or make sure the guide PCB’s KGND is connected to ground (so you can use the tournament switch)

I’m looking for someone in the San Francisco/San Jose area that’s willing to come repair the controls of an old Street Fighter 2 arcade cabinet. I’m willing to pay for the repairs. Please message me ASAP. i’m trying to get this machine ready for a tournament soon.

Hey, I have a quick question which has probably been asked a million times already, so apologies for that. Anyways, I want to recommend a PS3 Madcatz sfxt TE stick (so that 2nd gen design TE sticks, not the connectable ones or so) to a friend to play on the PC. It is fairly cheap now (€60,- new) and he wants to try a stick.

I know the first generation of TE sticks could give problems on the PC but I also heard that at some point newer versions didn’t have a problem with it. Now I am not 100% sure if it is okay to recommend it. Can somebody enlighten me please, thank you.

Ayo darky, do they sell sticks at retail in the states? wonderin cuz im down to drive there to get one

Hey guys my stick is having some issues :frowning: Particularly, my joystick of my Round 1 SFIV TE Stick.

The left, right, and down diagonal inputs work just fine… however, when I hit up, sometimes it’s ok, but when I hold it at a certain spot, it will rapidly press up. Sometimes I move it up slowly, and when I hear a click, nothing makes contact with in game (the diagonal input button is not registering.)

Is this a microswitch problem or something else, and what would be recommended to replace it with?

Okay guys, here’s another newbie question and inquiry for advice.

I’m interested in lighting up the balltop on my Hori SCV For the 360. It has the Sanwa JLF Stick on it. What would I need to get to make the balltop light up. Preferably something solderless, but if I have to go that route…

Anyway, was browsing Paradise Arcade and some of their stuff looks promising, but I don’t know exactly what I’d need. Some experienced advice would be appreciated :slight_smile:

Probably a microswitch, could be a wire issue, but if you haven’t been opening it up and tinkering, likely a microswitch.

Soldering will be involved. At minimum you could get away with scotch-locks for a lot of stuff but you’ll need to get resistors involved too.

First thing you need is a hollow JLF shaft. Paradise, Focus, most suppliers carry them.

From there you have to decide if you’re going for light-up on action or if you just want the thing lit while the controller is on(plugged-in). If you just want it lit up while it’s on you could get away with soldering a wire from VCC and GND, get a resistor inline on the VCC line, and then connect an LED.

If you want action related, you’re looking for an LED controller board like Toodles’ FGW LED controller. I don’t know off-hand if the sparky supports it.

In the end though, for LED mods you’re either gonna want to get comfortable with solder and some research or grab a modder and tell em what you want done.

Thanks… I was afraid of that… I guess I’ll just pass. Thanks for the info though :slight_smile:

So the current stick I’m using uses one of the first generation madcatz PCB’s, and as a result putting the switch to the locked position doesn’t affect the start or select buttons. I’m an extremely paranoid person and while I don’t see myself moving around enough to actually hit the buttons on accident, just to be safe I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for buttons I could swap them out with. Basically something you’d have to mash down on like you mean it in order to pause the game.

Has anybody tried modifying their sticks with the Omron D2VV-G (silent)? I can’t hit any diagonals. It’s only doing up,down,left,right but when I roll it it never hits the diagonals.

You can try an enlarged actuator to kill some of that deadzone. I had the exact same problem when i was using the silent reed switches in a silent sanwa

Where do I get enlarged ones?

Paradise arcade shop has enlarged actuators

Thank you very much blackraen my Kappa <3

I need help I have the hori fighting edge arcade stick I decided I didn’t like the buttons were placed so I opened it up and moved the buttons to where i like them that went fine everything worked out but when I went to put the faceplate back on something happened when I tried to insert the screw into the hole again I heard a tink noise as if something had fell upon investigation I found out a nut had fallen from below the hole. Because of this I can no longer get my face plate to stay on does anyone have any idea how to fix this?

First off Don’t post the same question on multiple threads. its annoying and hard to follow.

aa for your nut, a drop of glue should hold it into place until you screw your panel together.

is this TE stick the same as the sf4 madcatz te stick? sanwa parts and everything?