Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

You can always fix it. TE’s are the best sticks to learn how to troubleshoot and mod.

Hi all. I want to buy a new fightstick as my Round 1 TE is slowly failing :(. The turbo/guide panel is messing up so I had a look at the GameShark.net store (Madcatz EU Agent) and found the MadCatz Arcade Fightstick PRO. While it’s great, it’s very important for me that I can dual mod this stick. I have a TE Kitty installed in my Round 1 TE so will it work with the Fightstick PRO as well? Thanks.

Hello again, I’ve another question for you.

I recently ordered a stick case from shadaloo.eu. It actually took about two and a half months to arrive (Chris/Jinxx seems like a nice guy, but his service is pretty hit and miss), a process which was arduous and involved a lost package.

Now that it’s here not only am I missing a couple of extras (wooden dustwasher, actuator etc) but the layout is messed up.

I asked for a centred 6 button Sega p2 and I got a uneven hybrid layout in the top-left of the panel. Not only is this crap in and of itself, but it’s also specifically what I wanted to avoid and mentioned several times in my very detailed instructions.

Since I had seen a picture of this before it arrived (he posted it then emailed me the picture, not a good plan), and had pointed out the flaws, Chris had told me he would send me a new panel if I wanted one. However, he has not replied to any of my (increasingly irate) emails in the last two weeks, and I’m not sure what to do.

Any suggestions?

Also, if this is a lost cause, are there any modders in the UK who would be able to supply a suitable mdf panel and top plexi so I’ve not completely thrown my money away?

Yes, but I think you might need the TE-S harness for it to work.

Hey, I’m looking to get a fightstick for PS3 and PC to play SFIV, Injustice, P4A, Skullgirls, not super serious, IE no tournies so I’m looking for a low or midrange fightstick in the pricerange of $30-$80 and I was wondering if you guys have recommendations about stick models, companies etc etc etc.

Thanks :slight_smile:

Wrong thread. Point this at the [What Stick/Controller should I Buy?](What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting thread.

They’re hit or miss. Generally speaking almost everything they sell is in the condition stated, but I’m not convinced they check everything they sell. I’ve had some sticks arrive dead and others arrive with buttons that didn’t work. Amazon has great customer service though so you can get a discount for any undocumented problem or even a full refund at their expense if the stick doesn’t work. If it’s in “Like New” condition though it should be fine.

I’d shoot for a new/used MadCatz tournament edition stick for that price range. Not too uncommon to find them in that range and they’re great sticks that you don’t need to worry about replacing later like you would with a cheap budget stick. You can also consider the MadCatz Pro Fightsticks which are similar in quality to a TE but with a different body.

@nsc
SmokeMaxX is on the money there. Check out The Trading Post, ebay, Amazon, Craigslist and even local thrift stores.
Amazon is the best when it comes to customer service and dealing with issues. Every once in a while there are sales on Mad Catz online store http://www.gameshark.com/
There was the The Mad Catz SCV stick for $80 Plus shipping. Hell my last stick was sold completely not working at 30, and I had replace the PCB (well I replaced the art, buttons and joystick too)

Ok so I read through Darksakul’s post a couple times, and discussed with my friend various sticks and his feel on them (he’s saving up for a hitbox) and I steered away from the TEs but you guys seem to be pushing that (he likes TEs also).

A big issue is since I’m in Canada there are tons and tons people gouging on shipping (part of it is the border, part of it is people, part of it is fightsticks are heavy).

So what I’m looking at is a Black Hori Mini 3 at MSRP (shipping between 1 week to 5 weeks, likely within 2 or 3 weeks) a Blue Hori Mini 3 at MSRP (shipping will be 3 weeks because that’s the release) and a Mad Catz WWE SE at $70 which ships in 2 days. Mostly because Amazon.ca has almost nothing in the way of TEs and ebay doesn’t have anything under 150 with shipping and nothing exciting on kijiji.

So now my questions are should I hunt for the TE? How are the Hori Mini 3s with PC compatibility? How does the Mad Catz brawl stack up for PC comp? Paging through some of the guide I don’t see much mention of the hori minis.

Since I’m not going to a tourney anytime soon I’ve been browsing much lower price ranges. My friend also commented that I should also be looking for lower-end stuff since none of these pads are PS4 and if I want to upgrade to a TE two years from now it’ll be NBD since I’ll need a ps4 pad anyways.


Now I see that you just flat out hate the Hori 3 because it's "meh"

So even at $40 it's too junk for a beginner stick / non tourney stick?
What specifically makes it so meh that it's not worth mentioning?
How about the minis? Are they similarly meh?

Quality of parts (authentic arcade parts). Reliable electronics. Sturdy construction.

Look for a stick with authentic parts, regardless if its Sanwa, Seimitsu, Korean style parts or American style.
Most premium sticks have Sanwa parts stock, some players prefer Seimitsu or Korean like Crown or Myoungshin Fanta, few even prefer IL or even … Happ parts.

So the brawlstick then, and then just mod the art so it’s not shitty rasslers

You’d still have to change out the stick and buttons eventually, the stock parts aren’t authentic, and WILL wear out rather quickly.

How quickly are we talking here?

The best way to approach how much you should be paying for a stick is to think in terms of how much the components cost (using US$ here, apologies for 'murica centrism).

A quality arcade button (Sanwa, Seimitsu, Happ, etc) will run somewhere between 2.50 and 4.00 a piece. Doesn’t sound like much, but multiply that by at least 8 for your main buttons. Throw in three more if you want a start, select, and guide button. (assuming 3.75$ for your 30mm and 2.75 for 24mm, 38.25$ for buttons).

A quality arcade joysticks are generally in the neighborhood of 22.50 - 25.00.

So looking at those parts alone, for actual quality components retail you’re at at least 60$. That’s not even factoring in wiring, controller boards, case, or cable.

There are 2 huge problems with your friend’s suggestion to go lower-end: 1) The assumption that all things are equal between quality arcade and cheap knock-off components except for lifetime which is incorrect, quality components work better as well as last longer. 2) The assumption that you won’t be playing anything on the PS3(or whatever you’re playing on right now) when the PS4 comes out, which is wrong unless you really do just jump games a lot.

If you want to start playing with a fight stick, you really want to make sure you get a fight stick. The annoying unrelated comparison would be to say that because you don’t want to compete in the Toure-de-france you’re just gonna get a cheap bike from Walmart. Not only are you wasting money on a bad bike, it’s going to be a bad bike that’s actually going to make you not want to ride bikes at all, for fun or otherwise. Same goes for arcade sticks.

As mentioned there are deals around on used sticks and such, but just keep in mind that once you start looking at something that costs less than 60$ brand new at retail, you kind of should be asking yourself why.

Depends, some people have them last weeks, some months. But it doesn’t take a long time for them to break.

I heard the quality of the knock-offs in the Brawlsticks are better than the original SE sticks from the Vanilla SF4 era, but they still aren’t remotely close to Sanwa quality.

It’s not an ideal solution due to the potential price, but you could try asking b15sdm. He works with the raw materials you need.

Not a bad idea. I’ll pm him if nothing comes of my latest email. Perhaps he’ll take pity on my situation, and the fact that we share a first name.

I might just get a simplecase instead, since he seems to be up and running again.

That would be a shame considering the money already spent : /

You don’t need to tell me that :frowning:

Potentially stupid question here: If I were to just shove a 3mm LED’s posts into the end of a 20-18 gauge wire (into the rubber sleeving), do you think that it would have a good enough connection to function?

I’m using an FGW LED Controller and trying to wire LEDs for use in HBFS-30s (there’s not a lot of space inside and the wires have to be routed through 1mm holes directly from the base of the LED (through the Cherry MX switch)) I want them to be semi-removable for art change purposes.