Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

The EightArc line of Qanba Sticks used Sanwa parts, the Sanwa JLF joystick kever would be a exact drop in replacement for your Eightarc Fusion.

You do have the option of going also for a Seimitsu Joystick, stick model numbers ending in a "-01" So on Focus Attack the LS-56-01 with the MS plate, LS-32-01 and the Seimitsu LS-40-01 (PCB type) would install Fine.

The SEIMITSU LS-40 JOYSTICK (.187 FASTENER TYPE) and the Crown 303-FK Korean Joystick would either need the joystick wireharness to be moddifed or you get this adapter harness http://www.focusattack.com/187-to-5-pin-conversion-harness/

But Honestly You don’t need a whole brand new Joystick, You just need a new SANWA TP-MA PCB ASSEMBLY and a new Spring.

I tried the search bar but came up with nothing…im looking for some info or a potential lead on a full wrap…something similar to the work of Syn Werkz here on SRK if you heavy hitterz are familiar with his work…any info would be appreciated

any topic here with the specifications of all joysticks like hardness, lengt of activation etc?

There info on Slag Coin. www.slagcoin.com

Okay, I found an apparently decent stick I can get that weighs a bit more than my SFIV SE and actually works with my damn computer. Looks like the button holes are set for 30mm, too, and it comes with table clamps if I decide to use them.

@Darksakul Do you know if the default joystick in the Qanba Q1 is any good, or will I need to swap in my old joystick as well as the buttons? I figure this’ll be way easier and have much less (read: none) chance of wrecking everything than soldering a wired 360 controller PCB on piggyback.

The Qanba Q1’s joystick is the same joystick that is in the Injustice Arcade stick minus the LED lights, same with the buttons.

Here is the read to the inside on the Injustice stick, minus the lights its the same Joystick and buttons as the Q1. Including how to mod the parts.

You can replace the parts with Sanwa or Seimitsu, or you can mod the parts. The Q1 buttons will accept Sanwa SW-68 button switches.
And the Joystick, can be modded with a Sanwa JLF pivot, Actuator, Spring and Shaft and do not forget the get the Sanwa e-clip

so, one of the nuts inside the stick (TE SCV, PS3) that holds the metal top and bezel in place loosened up and is hanging inside the box, making one of the screws unable to screw down. is this fixable in any flashy way or is it just to go with glue and be more cautious in the future? i still got the nut, obviously, but its pretty useless atm :frowning:

Those nuts for the TE top panel is either lightly glued or pressure fitted into place.
you can glue the nut back into place with a carefully applied super glue.

Hey guys, I think my USB cable on my Madcatz TE Round 2 fightstick (Xbox 360 and PC) is toast, except I don’t know where the breakage is occurring. Everything still looks fine on the outside but I can’t get it to connect for more than a few seconds, and when it does my inputs are all off. I’m at the point where I just want to replace the whole cable, but I don’t want to have to solder directly onto the board, so I would prefer to cut the cable and splice it somewhere after the PCB but before it leaves the case. I have a few questions that I can’t seem to find answers to yet:

**-What is the type of USB cable I need for this? 1.0? 2.0? I assume 2.0 but wanted to double-check.

-I haven’t read anything concrete on this, but I’ve seen it mentioned here and there that wrapping the cable around the fightstick can cause this issue. I don’t wrap it very tight, but yes it is wrapped before being kept in a messenger bag. I was hoping to confirm this before cutting the cable. What is the preferred way to store the cable? Wrapping it loosely around the fightstick doesn’t seem too different to me than looping it gently in any other way.

-Can the end of the cable that I cut off be virtually any adapter as long as the end going into my Xbox or PC is the Type Male A? Meaning Type Male B to Type Male A will work? As will Micro B to Type Male A? Or hell, will a printer cable with one Type Male A end work?

-Are there any USB cables that come highly recommended for competitive play? Is there anything to “Nickle-plated” vs. “Hi-Speed”, or is it all just fluff and most any USB cable will do?

-Is there any noticeable input delay when going up in USB length? I would like to do at least the 12’-13’ that I’m used to, but wouldn’t mind taking the opportunity to upgrade to a longer cable, say 18’-20’, just in case I ever need it, unless it creates a noticeable delay.**

Sorry if some or all of these have been answered before, it’s a huge thread. Thanks in advance for the help!

First, the USB version thing is entirely protocol, the cable is the same. USB 2.0 certified cables have additional shielding to ensure performance at high speed but you won’t be hooking that up in this situation and it won’t impact your stick since it’s not transmitting large amounts of data. Any old Male-A usb cable will do the trick.

Cable length (unless you’re looking at getting a few hundred meters) will not create any delay. Just get the cable you want.

A note regarding splicing – if you aren’t going to solder the replacement cable, I have to highly recommend that you use scotchloks or some other splicing specific tool for the repair. The individual wires are very small.

As far as breakage goes, it happens because of repeated flexing of the wire. Take a paperclip and bend it back and forth a bunch. Something happens inside your cable, though obviously with some higher tolerances. If you’re using your stick, wrapping and unwrapping your cable a lot, your USB cable will fail at some point.

This is why I prefer to install a Neutrik passthrough on pretty much all of my sticks. Plugging the cable into the stick side as well means no internal parts are flexing, so they will not fail. An external cable can also be looped which is less stressful on the wire (wrapping around the stick body is softer than using the cable compartment, but it is still bending the cable). An external cable is also really easy to replace if it fails (just grab a different cable and plug it in).

I have the Akishop PS360+ and was wondering if there is a way to get gamecube support?

PS2 to GC adapter most likely.

Thanks for all the info! Yeah it makes a lot of sense about the cable, I’m going to look into getting a Neutrik myself, if I can figure out how to get it into my stick.

I have a Hori Wireless Fight Stick 3 (basically the Tekken 6 stick) for PS3 which I’m modding to be my portable stick, and it’s all going swimmingly so far minus a few burns. However a few things have come up I hope you guys can help with…

In all of the mods I’ve seen for this stick so far the joystick replacement (usually a JLF) has had to have the bottom of the shaft grinded (ground? iunno) down so that the stick doesn’t catch on the case. Does anyone know if there is a stick out there where this won’t be necessary?

I am only hesitant because I would like to keep the screwdriver slot on the bottom of the shaft for replacing ball tops without disassembling the entire stick, I’m planning on using a shaft cover so gripping on the shaft (heh) with pliers (ouch) isn’t really an option. If I have no other option than grinding, is there such a thing as a dust washer that fits flush to a naked JLF shaft?

Also, replacing the artwork. I live in the UK so have no affordable alternative to ‘lami label’. Has anyone had any experience of using spray adhesive and paper varnish over good quality paper as an alternative?


What is the simplest easy board to use for a project? I’ve got a frame data project in mind and need a pcb I can drive. Ease of solder is paramount, second is cost, and third is xbox360 support. PS3 is workable if the cost drop is enough.

I’m aware of paewong, ps360+, and controller scrapping. Never tried scrapping a controller before though.

Anyone know if I could put a Crown 303-FK in a Madcatz WWE Brawlstick?

I don’t know any cheap 360 PCBs, but you can get a zero delay PCB off ebay for less than £10 including postage these days. Solder free for the most part and works on PS3.

Alternatively, the Datel Arcade Pro can be quite cheap and has 360&PS3 compatibility.

Look for a used Mad Catz Fight Pad, Street Fighter, WWE Brawl or the Street Fighter VS Tekkken all works.

Pretty sure it will fit just fine. MCZ seem to be using the same shell for their Fightstick K that’s coming out soon, so that’s a good sign. I have a Brawlstick, and an FK is coming to me in the next couple of days. If I remember, I’ll test and post back here.

Just picked up a TE on the cheap from a friend of mine and it’s missing the screws for the bottom metal panel. Anyone know what size the screws are?