Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Yup, 30mm button holes will fit the buttons fine (assuming you’re using 30mm buttons ofcourse).
Not too sure about the stick since I don’t have one handy, but you should be able to copy your brawlstick’s hole size and be fine.

Hey I just purchased my first stick (SFxTekken madcatz pro cross). Anyways I grew up with American arcades, the HAPP american 6 button layout, bat stick…and the Sanwa feels completely different. I was just wondering to others who may have had to make this adjustment or even from pad, any tips on speeding up the adjustment process?

Typically a Joystick hole (not including any mounts) is 24mm, you can get away with a 30mm hole as a joystick does not need as precise a hole as the push buttons.

Check out Slag Coin at slagcoin.com

That will have everything you need to know about building an arcade panel. With answers for your questions and answers for questions you didn’t even ask yet.

Hey, quick question. When I see the insides of modded arcade sticks, I notice that the wires are wrapped in a black material that holds it all together and makes it look incredibly clean. What is that called, how much is it typically and where can I get some?

Image for reference

Please and thank you. :]

Typically referred to as braided sleeving / sleeves.
I get the non-fray type at a local electronics shop for about… 30 cents a foot.
Should be able to find them at any electronics shop locally or online.

So I’m about ready to order the parts I need for the stick, and I just want a sanity check to make sure I’m not missing anything. Here’s what I’ve got:

-MC Cthulhu
-RJ45 jack (and cat5/6 to connect to PCB)
-n to RJ45 cables for each console
-Screw terminals
-LS-58 stick (do I need a mounting plate for a wooden case?)
-Restrictor plate
-8 30mm buttons
-2 24mm buttons
-10 quick connectors (w/insulation sleeve)
-tons of wire

Assuming I have all the tools, does that cover it (except for the box)? Thanks!

You need two quick disconnects per button fyi. So you’d need 20, not 10.

By RJ45 jack do you mean a Neutrik RJ45 feed through?

Does the stick come with the wiring harness?

Assuming the stick comes with the flat mounting plate, how thick is the top of your wood case? Depending on that you may need a SS mounting plate.

Thanks! (I’m a little embarrassed I didn’t figure that out…guess I’m in the right thread :))

I was looking at the Switchcraft one, but yeah, same idea. (I figured I’d get everything through Focus Attack because I need the MC Cthulhu.) Is the Neutrik one worth the extra $3? I’d sort of figured a jack is a jack, but if it’s significantly more durable, it’d be worth it.


It does come with a flat mounting plate. I’m going to have a friend who does woodworking build me the case, so I’m not entirely sure on the dimensions yet. How thick would it have to be that I’d need that?

Also, I had one of the 10 connection .110" ground daisy chain wires - do I need that, and if so, is one sufficient?

Thanks for your help!

Xbox 360 TE + Mc Cthulhu + Imp v1

I’ll check and edit this post tomorrow for whatever i get back from the buttons but this is baffling.

Using MC Cthulhu mode - All directions work. Guide, Start, and Select all work.
Using 360 mode - Any direction containing up (up, up-left, up-right) does not work. All other directions work and Guide/Start/Select work as well.

What I honestly don’t get is if I’m piggybacking from the 360 TE board to the MC Cthulhu board, you would expect that if something worked on the MC board it’d must work for the xbox board as well

All buttons and directions work on mc cthulhu.
All buttons work on 360 mode, up is the only direction that doesn’t work still. I don’t get it.

MadCatz PS3 Round 2 and Padhacked MadCatz Brawl Pad, connected via Imp 2.1

Testing on a PC, ordinarily in X-Box mode it would show up as MadCatz Brawlpad and USB Joystick 8000sonething in PS3 mode
When in X-Box mode, its working as intended, but when I hit the Home button, it tries to switch to PS3 mode and disconnects.
Additionally, when try to switch to PS3 mode, it won’t connect at all, and when I take my hand off the Home button, it switches back to X-Box mode.

EDIT: So much as touching the PS3 D+ line causes the same result, pretty sure D+ and D- are shorted.

EDIT2: Definitely not shorted, everything appears to be connected, I’m feeling a little lost on what to do from here.

I wanna dual mod my SCV TE stick and use one of those Neutrik feed-throughs because I honestly think they look cool. So what PCB am I supposed to buy and is there any visual aid as to how to install it.


Disgard please.

It’s connected like this if it were a 360TE PCB instead of a pad. It was from the rtdzign thread here.

All the buttons are piggybacked from the xbox 360 TE to the MC Cthulhu.
The stick works on PC as “Cthulhu Multiconsole Edition” [MC mode] and “Arcade Stick (Street Fighter IV)” [360 mode].
All the buttons and directions work perfectly in MC mode. In 360 mode, up direction is the only thing that doesn’t work.

You can get a bat top and a circle\octogon gate and a stiffer spring. It won’t make it feel exactly like a competition but it will be close. Also if you grew up on a p360 optical (no microswitches) you can buy a spark ce from toodles (godlikecontrols.com) and get a circle gate with a stiffer spring and a bat top to make it feel like an old p360 (again doesn’t feel the same, but it’s close)

Just a quick question.

I have a Mad Catz TE round 1 stick.

I am replacing the Sanwa for a Seimitsu.
Putting in a 6 button full plexi and removing the bezel
Adding new artwork
New artwork and plexi on the bottom.

My problem is the Bold. I assume I will need a new metal panel that is 6 buttons. But I can’t seem to find one anywhere. is it absolutely imperative, and if so where can I get one? or Can I just use hole covers and put it under the art and plexi?

No need to change the metal panel. No need to cover it with plungers. The art and plexi will cover the empty holes and won’t be noticeable.

Much appreciated

I bought a dual modded (TE kitty) TE-S with a sparky jr pcb.

When I got the stick initially, the owner said he couldn’t get the LEDs to work properly only having all kicks light up (and stay lit). But functionally it worked flawlessly on both 360 (which is the native board) and ps3.

I switched the wires on the terminal strip of the TE-S, initially he had the top row connected to the sparky, so the wires going from the TE-S are now on the bottom of the strip. And the lights work to my surprise!

The down side is that the stick only works on ps3. The LEDs work on both consoles but the Xbox doesn’t recognize stick at all.

So it’s either I have a functional dual mod with fucked up lights, or a really pretty ps3 stick.

Anyone have any idea how to approach this so I have both the dual mod and the LEDs?

super late edit:

fixed it.

how i fixed it


hold down BACK when the joystick is switched to RS when plugging into the xbox

Renamed the thread so that people actually know to ask questions here