Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

So I just got a cheap brawl stick since Injustice just came out. I wanted to upgrade the parts in it to match the TE fight sticks. I was planning on getting the JLF-TP-8YT-SK joystick and the OBSF-30 pushbuttons. I used to lurk here a lot for a while and lizardlick was really popular back then but it looks like they closed a while ago. Where is the best place to buy now?

http://www.arcadeshock.com/
http://www.focusattack.com/
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/

I use all three and just go wherever has the cheapest part at the time. All 3 are fast shippers and highly reliable.

Thanks! Also I was looking at doing a dual mod for the stick as well. I got the brawl stick for xbox and wanted to dual mod it with the ps3. I see the chimp board combines the Cthulhu and Imp boards together but I cannot find it in stock anywhere. focusattack.com has them in stock separately.

Not sure this is the appropriate place to ask, but here goes:

I have an old AIAB stick (Happ convex buttons from back when Happ buttons were still good/iL stick). Buttons have quick disconnects on their microswitches, though on the board side they’re soldered on. 360-only.

I bought a Cronus adaptor (not the X). Works like a dream… on everything except that stick. AIAB soldered to what I think were generic Mad Catz 360 pads. Anywho, I updated the Cronus firmware and still nothing. (The Cronus isn’t my question, though if anyone has any suggestions here, let me know, as Cronus support is slightly… indifferent.)

Why buy the adaptor? Well, I need to dual mod this stick. I registered for Evo (my first Evo despite being registered on this site forever; yay me). Evo plays on PS3s predominantly. 2+2 = Jesus. With the Cronus out, I bought, and am awaiting in the mail, the PS360+ board.

Now, here’s the thing:

I have no man skills.

Like, very few man skills. The bare minimum.

I can operate a screwdriver and put together one of those Staples desks or chairs with the directions included. I can also change a tire and put together/take apart/repair a computer. … That’s it. No other man skills. I have soldered nothing and re-wired nothing other than molex/berg connectors and other assorted PC terms dynamite timepants man moist.

So you can appreciate that I’ll get the PS360+, open it, look at it for a while, then cry in a corner for an hour or ten.

My questions are about installing the PS360+.

  1. Apparently it can be fireware updated via PC. Should I do this before anything else?

  2. As mentioned, the wires are soldered on the board side of things in my current AIAB stick. Can I trim those wires, remove enough shielding to fit the wires into the PS360’s screw terminals, screw them in, and BAM good to go? Or should I get new wires?

2a. Where do I get Happ/iL parts these days? (No, I’m not switching to a Japanese stick.)

  1. The PS360+ has an RJ45 and a USB Type B port. I want to use the RJ45 for its wider compatibility. Do I mount this thing in such a way that these ports jut out the back of my stick? Or do I mount it inside and run an RJ45 extension cable out the back? Will this interrupt with the PS360+'s apparent intelligent detection of what cable I’m using?

  2. Why in the fuck didn’t Crono and company just shit stomp Zeal before the Ocean Palace nonsense?

That is all. Thanks muchly.

  1. You could do it prior or you can just as easily plug your stick into your PC via USB once you’ve finished the mod and flash it.

  2. The screw terminals on the PS360+ are fairly big, wouldn’t see why you couldn’t just strip the ends of the existing wires and reuse them. Granted I like using fresh wiring for projects as old wires sometimes have kinks that could cause problems down the road.
    a) HAPP/IL parts at Arcadeshock and Paradisearcadeshop.

  3. You could have the butt end of the PS360+ sticking out of your stick but that would worry me as any pressure on the USB cable that connects to your console will be directly felt by the PCB. Typically modder’s install a RJ45 feed through in their case like this or this. Then all you need is a short ethernet cable that goes from the RJ45 jack on the PS360+ to the internal side of the feed through then connect a RJ45 to USB cable on the outside to your console. This won’t affect or limit how the PS360+ functions. In fact this way you could get something like a RJ45 to Dreamcast cable to use the stick on your Dreamcast.

  4. Need to go dig up my SuperFamicon cart, brb.

@specs

Dr.B is disappointed at your lack of man skills.

Gratitude @Exand!

Xbox 360 TE + Mc Cthulhu + Imp v1

All the buttons are piggybacked from the xbox 360 TE to the MC Cthulhu.
The stick works on PC as “Cthulhu Multiconsole Edition” [MC mode] and “Arcade Stick (Street Fighter IV)” [360 mode].
All the buttons and directions work perfectly in MC mode. In 360 mode, up direction is the only thing that doesn’t work.

It’s connected like this if it were a 360TE PCB instead of a pad. It was from the rtdzign thread here.

Which seimitsu button models can have their plunger / rim swapped - are ps-14-g-n (clear) rims and plungers swappable with ps-14-k-n?

Also, are there places in the US that still sell ps-14-gn(clear)?

I have a PS3 Hori Real Arcade Pro 3. Is modding the only way I’d be able to use it on a 360? I have read that most(all) converters do not work well with sticks.

I heard on the Quanba stick (I haven’t bought one yet, but I’m thinking about purchasing one) that the start button is super sensitive. So, I was thinking about swapping that button out with a Seimistsu button. However, I don’t really know how sensitive it is. If it is really sensitive, what button can I swap it with to where i’m gonna have to actually PUSH the button for it to pause?

Going to assume you’re talking about the Qanba Q4? It’s your usual 24mm button but it’s Qanba’s stock brand.

Obviously opinions will differ but it doesn’t feel overly sensitive to me. At least not in the “oops I brushed my hand on it and paused” type of way.

I’ve never found the QanBa start button to be an issue on sticks I’ve used. On mine, however, I swapped it for a Seimitsu (no white Sanwa 24mm screw-in available) and it was less sensitive afterwards.

I’ve got a few questions…

  1. Where can I get shaft and dust covers for an LS-32-01? Are they even needed? My current dust cover is a little too big.

  2. For building a custom stick (out of wood), will I need any soldering to install a MC Cthulhu (PC, PS3, and Dreamcast compatibility is what I want)? What’s the difference between a PS3 Cthulhu, MC Cthulhu, and Sparky or whatever it’s called? Should I get the Switchboard (I think that’s what it’s called) or the Neutheireg whatever for a RJ 45 port? And about how big is a “big” stick? I currently have a Brawlstick and it’s a little too small for me. It’s kinda hard to do the MvC3 layout (keep first 3 fingers on LMH and thumb on S. I always get cramps. Would a Noir layout help with this?) and I don’t have any wrist room, just palm room. How big are TEs?

  3. For custom stick art, where do you guys recommend getting the art from (the actual pictures that you put into the final art that goes on the stick)? I want to make a Raphael (TMNT not SC) art for a Brawlstick and I can’t find any art for it. I tried scanning a few comics of mine to put on there but I gave up. And all of the pictures on Google Images are either terrible quality, too small, or really weird grotesque turtles. Who’s the expert on this stuff?

Yep.

So I was wondering if anyone had a better solution to a problem I have.

So I have a sound board (This one) and it works great and all, but as of right now I only have a 3.5mm headset (saving up to buy the nice XLR mics most everyone uses) Now the problem is that I have no good way to power the 3.5mm mic. My current solution is to use a USB soundcard, plug the mic into the microphone port, then use “Listen to this device” to have the output of the card be the microphone alone, then run that to my soundboard.

Now this works well enough, but a problem is the fact that it creates a slight delay from talking to output on the soundboard. This leads to many little problems like the commentary being ever so slightly behind the game, and the commentators are unable to listen to the soundboard (to get game audio and hear each other) because they are hearing themselves a quarter of a second later which makes talking quite difficult…

So I was wondering if anyone knew a good solution to get power to my 3.5 mic so I can run it directly to the soundboard.

I’ve recently had a problem with my TE-s lately. When I do motion inputs I let the stick go back to neutral when I finish the input. The problem is I’m getting an extra direction after I let the stick go… Example: I do a qcf motion and when I let the stick go to netural I get a back command also.
Any advice on fixing this?

How tight or loose you say your JLF joystick is and how much bounce your stick has?

hmmmm… it stills has the same spring that came with it. it doesn’t feel too loose but it’s definitely not tight. I’m not just what you mean by how much bounce it has but when I let it go back neutral it has a small jiggle to it

Consider replacing the spring