Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

@nsc
SmokeMaxX is on the money there. Check out The Trading Post, ebay, Amazon, Craigslist and even local thrift stores.
Amazon is the best when it comes to customer service and dealing with issues. Every once in a while there are sales on Mad Catz online store http://www.gameshark.com/
There was the The Mad Catz SCV stick for $80 Plus shipping. Hell my last stick was sold completely not working at 30, and I had replace the PCB (well I replaced the art, buttons and joystick too)

Ok so I read through Darksakul’s post a couple times, and discussed with my friend various sticks and his feel on them (he’s saving up for a hitbox) and I steered away from the TEs but you guys seem to be pushing that (he likes TEs also).

A big issue is since I’m in Canada there are tons and tons people gouging on shipping (part of it is the border, part of it is people, part of it is fightsticks are heavy).

So what I’m looking at is a Black Hori Mini 3 at MSRP (shipping between 1 week to 5 weeks, likely within 2 or 3 weeks) a Blue Hori Mini 3 at MSRP (shipping will be 3 weeks because that’s the release) and a Mad Catz WWE SE at $70 which ships in 2 days. Mostly because Amazon.ca has almost nothing in the way of TEs and ebay doesn’t have anything under 150 with shipping and nothing exciting on kijiji.

So now my questions are should I hunt for the TE? How are the Hori Mini 3s with PC compatibility? How does the Mad Catz brawl stack up for PC comp? Paging through some of the guide I don’t see much mention of the hori minis.

Since I’m not going to a tourney anytime soon I’ve been browsing much lower price ranges. My friend also commented that I should also be looking for lower-end stuff since none of these pads are PS4 and if I want to upgrade to a TE two years from now it’ll be NBD since I’ll need a ps4 pad anyways.


Now I see that you just flat out hate the Hori 3 because it's "meh"

So even at $40 it's too junk for a beginner stick / non tourney stick?
What specifically makes it so meh that it's not worth mentioning?
How about the minis? Are they similarly meh?

Quality of parts (authentic arcade parts). Reliable electronics. Sturdy construction.

Look for a stick with authentic parts, regardless if its Sanwa, Seimitsu, Korean style parts or American style.
Most premium sticks have Sanwa parts stock, some players prefer Seimitsu or Korean like Crown or Myoungshin Fanta, few even prefer IL or even … Happ parts.

So the brawlstick then, and then just mod the art so it’s not shitty rasslers

You’d still have to change out the stick and buttons eventually, the stock parts aren’t authentic, and WILL wear out rather quickly.

How quickly are we talking here?

The best way to approach how much you should be paying for a stick is to think in terms of how much the components cost (using US$ here, apologies for 'murica centrism).

A quality arcade button (Sanwa, Seimitsu, Happ, etc) will run somewhere between 2.50 and 4.00 a piece. Doesn’t sound like much, but multiply that by at least 8 for your main buttons. Throw in three more if you want a start, select, and guide button. (assuming 3.75$ for your 30mm and 2.75 for 24mm, 38.25$ for buttons).

A quality arcade joysticks are generally in the neighborhood of 22.50 - 25.00.

So looking at those parts alone, for actual quality components retail you’re at at least 60$. That’s not even factoring in wiring, controller boards, case, or cable.

There are 2 huge problems with your friend’s suggestion to go lower-end: 1) The assumption that all things are equal between quality arcade and cheap knock-off components except for lifetime which is incorrect, quality components work better as well as last longer. 2) The assumption that you won’t be playing anything on the PS3(or whatever you’re playing on right now) when the PS4 comes out, which is wrong unless you really do just jump games a lot.

If you want to start playing with a fight stick, you really want to make sure you get a fight stick. The annoying unrelated comparison would be to say that because you don’t want to compete in the Toure-de-france you’re just gonna get a cheap bike from Walmart. Not only are you wasting money on a bad bike, it’s going to be a bad bike that’s actually going to make you not want to ride bikes at all, for fun or otherwise. Same goes for arcade sticks.

As mentioned there are deals around on used sticks and such, but just keep in mind that once you start looking at something that costs less than 60$ brand new at retail, you kind of should be asking yourself why.

Depends, some people have them last weeks, some months. But it doesn’t take a long time for them to break.

I heard the quality of the knock-offs in the Brawlsticks are better than the original SE sticks from the Vanilla SF4 era, but they still aren’t remotely close to Sanwa quality.

It’s not an ideal solution due to the potential price, but you could try asking b15sdm. He works with the raw materials you need.

Not a bad idea. I’ll pm him if nothing comes of my latest email. Perhaps he’ll take pity on my situation, and the fact that we share a first name.

I might just get a simplecase instead, since he seems to be up and running again.

That would be a shame considering the money already spent : /

You don’t need to tell me that :frowning:

Potentially stupid question here: If I were to just shove a 3mm LED’s posts into the end of a 20-18 gauge wire (into the rubber sleeving), do you think that it would have a good enough connection to function?

I’m using an FGW LED Controller and trying to wire LEDs for use in HBFS-30s (there’s not a lot of space inside and the wires have to be routed through 1mm holes directly from the base of the LED (through the Cherry MX switch)) I want them to be semi-removable for art change purposes.

By theory you still have enough contact for electricity to flow. But in practicality that would be a very poor very loose mechanical connection that invites oxidation (rust) which will fowl up your electrical connection.

So no, it not be a good idea.

Unless you got a fitting that (like a terminal strip) allows for good pressure fit connection, you need to either crimp or solder your electronic connections. I prefer solder as it eliminates the oxidation between the LED leads and you said wire.

For a quick disconnect solution for LEDs consider theses



They can be cut to length, and provide your easy to maintain disconnect.

You can also try these which are 2 pin PC fan connectors
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g51/c395/s1019/list/p1/Connectors-2_Pin_Connectors-2-Pin_Female-Page1.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g51/c395/s1018/list/p1/Connectors-2_Pin_Connectors-2-Pin_Male-Page1.html

I was wondering how good the joystick mount is on Art’s full plexi replacement, if I should stick with my metal panel and just get a cover plexi without the last 2 buttons cut… however, it’s a noir layout so I’d prefer a different one if I’m going to order it anyway but don’t want it if its a major difference in quality since first 6 on Noir isn’t that different

As someone who sells across the border quite regularly, I can assure that it is not cheap shipping from the USA to Canada. I believe it used to be a lot cheaper, but something happened and that’s no longer the case. I include shipping to the continental USA when I price my sticks but I tell people that it usually costs at least another $40 or so if they want me to ship to Canada. And I don’t even think that covers import duties/taxes that you have to pay on your end.

Thanks. Can someone else please confirm as well as I don’t want to buy the stick and find I can’t dual mod it with the Kitty board. I just want to be absolutely certain it will be ok so no offense to you BartStation :), just want to be sure about it.

Thanks, that’s perfect!

If I dual mod my ps3 stick to work on xbox, will it work on pc too?

Wholly dependent on whether your existing ps3 or if the xbox controller you’re adding is PC compatible.