looking to buy a HAPP perfect 360 joystick (just the joystick, i can put it in). anyone interested in selling it to me or leading me in the right direction?
Anybody else ever have problems playing on this?
I feel like I am not hitting diagonals consistently with this.
Are you new to arcade sticks? You have 666 Post so I want to say no but I don’t want to assume.
Test it out on practice mode or on your PC in the game controllers settings in the Control Panel.
If the stick is new, it could be stiff and needs to be “broken in”
I have that stick. It was my first. I can tell you that compared to a SFIV Round 1 that I bought used, it’s tougher to hit the diagonals… But I can also tell that the JLF moves much more freely in the Round 1. So, I don’t blame the stick, given that it’s new. Just give the new JLF in the stick some time to free up.
I’ve had it for about a year now, and only recently have I noticed the issue. It still feels new to me, but it is possible that I or someone who has handled it to have caused some wear on it. I have a Round 2 that looks like hell, but it is loose and sensitive as ever. I almost didn’t want to post since I had 666 posts xD
You could disassemble the JLF and see if it’s in need of maintenance. I had a similar issue recently, and found a load of gunk clogging up the works. A clean and some lubricant may fix the problem.
Clean and relube would be the the best. and if you want a spring replacement.
does anybody know where i can get a custom plexiglass for an old dreamcast agetec controller?
i want to change the buttons layout to something like this: http://www.mamegaming.com/Websites/chadsarcade/Images/Control%20Panel/cluster36_s.png
(just the buttons, the stick is OK)
It doesn’t need to be plexiglass actually, may be made of metal or wood or anything resistant enough to hold the buttons on its own
http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/ is the only place that sells Agetec Plexies. And far as I know art only does the default layout for the Agetec. Correction Art hobbies discontinued the Agetech panel
Keep in mind do to the design of the Agetech you can’t change the layout easily. See the following Not another Agetec thread. Guide and worklog
Anyways why would you use a vewlix layout on a Agetec? Just get a Mad Catz SE, it be less hassle.
Might be a dumb question but where do you guys think I could get colored screws for my Quanba Q4 stick’s faceplate? If I can’t find a nice color I could use black ones too.
I believe the size is 3x8, if possible I’d like round headed ones that will poke out above the plexi and be flush but I don’t know how possible that is. I don’t like how the stickers on top of the sld screws pop out, and I don’t like cleaning dust out of the gap that is left after the sticker is gone.
I have a Hori Real Arcade Pro VX SA Kai that I hope to install some buttons and artwork on. I plan on purchasing Sanwa buttons and joystick parts, will they require any soldering to fit in this stick, or is the process fairly straightforward?
The lever has a wiring harness with a 5-pin connector and the buttons are connected using quick disconnects, no soldering necessary.
The Kai already has a Sanwa JLF lever and buttons. You probably don’t need to change the lever. The stock buttons are also Sanwa but obviously you might want to swap them around for color purposes if you’re changing art.
The Kai (like most RAPs) does not have a plexi overlay for the panel though so for art changes you’ll need to remove the original sticker and either get your new art printed up on something like lamilabel or some other sticky-backed paper stock with a layering on top to protect the art from being rubbed, or get a plexi overlay made so you can use regular paper and protect it with the plexi. I don’t know offhand if Art does Kai panels but that’d be where I checked first.
Alright, that’s a huge relief! I lack the space and funds for soldering equipment, so it’s good that soldering won’t be necessary. Thank you so much!
You lack $15 and drawer space to keep a 8 inch power tool? It isn’t necessary to purchase a complete soldering station.
Although a soldering iron is completely unnecessary for what you mod needs. But if you have funds for an arcade stick you have funds for a soldering iron, You got space for an arcade stick, you got space for the damn iron too.
That’s true. I wasn’t sure how much is needed for those kinds of projects. Plus, my soldering skills are woeful, I’d probably end up breaking something.
I’m building a custom stick from scratch and its going okay so far. I’m having trouble with my plexi. i’ve shattered two pieces of acrylic trying to cut holes with a hole saw bit. what’s the recommended way to cut holes into plexi
The material you’re trying to use is probably too fragile and you should look at getting a different plastic. I’ve had extremely good luck with Lexan.
In general when trying to drill/bore holes in plastic you’ll want to do what you can to reduce flexing in the material like securing the piece close to the drilling/boring site, use a slower speed, finer toothed bits, etc.
That said, I’ve had pretty good luck just using a Forstner bit on Lexan so far. The edges need a bit more cleaning up afterwards but that’s nothing a dowel and 600 grit sand paper can’t fix.
thanks for the answer! I found a (cheaper) and more flexible clear sheet at Hobby Lobby. I suspect that I will be able to cut this with a hobby knife…it may not be pretty but the buttons will hide it! haha.
I’ve recently decided to create my own arcade stick art after being sick of looking at the WWE brawlsticks art. I finished up my design using the template that fits my stick (supposedly SE) and am ready to print. The only problem now is printing it out correctly.
Does it matter what kind of printer I use? I own a ink one, but I’m worried that after using it the ink will smear and ruin the art. I’m also curious on what kind of paper to use.
I’ve also bought adhesive glue for metal, and was wondering if this will work fine with my arcade stick.
Got a te mvc2 x360 edition stick and installed a te kitty awhile back.
Anyways, it was plugged in and got yanked out of the console. Now whenever it gets plugged in, everything on the top panel lights up and the consoles not reading it. Any fixes or diagnosis? Maybe I should check in with the kitty thread.