Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

@NENDO Sorry, I don’t have a caliper. Qualitatively, the Hayabusa shaft cover is about perhaps 1-2 millimeters (QUALITATIVE) taller than the PAS ALU shaft cover. Another thing I notice is that the Hayabusa shaft cover is graduated. It’s diameter is wider towards the bottom than the top of the of the shaft cover, and I can only fit one of the sides (of course the slimmer side) into the PAS ALU Bat Top.

I have no idea how the change of shaft cover on a Hayabusa shaft could affect the actuator/spring pressure/unknown factor that affects how my lever moves.

On my Kuro VLX with my JLF assembly, I used both the Hayabusa shaft cover and PAS ALU shaft cover with the same functionality, and normal/preferred functionality (none of that tightening BS.)

The only thing I could think of now, and I don’t know if it’s an actual factor, is that perhaps the wider base of the Hayabusa shaft cover is designed to pivot optimally with the Hayabusa pivot right below it. The slimmer PAS Shaft Cover, and I’m hypothesizing other shaft covers of similar non-graduated builds, interacts with the Hayabusa shaft cover in a way that messes up my assembly. Perhaps this factor in conjunction with the weight/size/unknown factors of my PAS ALU Bat Top on top of the assembly may affect everything overall.

At this point, I don’t know anymore and my care for the matter is waning since I have resolved my issue. And I don’t have a caliper.

Thanks to everyone that responded to me and tried to help me out. It was kinda a long night.

Have you ever had a shaft cover get hung up on the inner dust washer when putting a lever back into a controller/cabinet and screwing the ball/bat top back on? You feel a lot of resistance until it pops into place, which is what I’m picturing with your description. Maybe the slightly longer Hayabusa shaft (as evidenced by the small gap between the shaft cover and balltop on a Hayabusa) coupled with the slight dimensional difference (and the other non-stock parts you’re using) in the PAS shaftcover is recreating that phenomenon as you rotate the lever.

Ah, brain fart. The analog stick pins are probably the ones in those white rectangles.

Tonight I tried replacing buttons on my madcatz fightstick pro, I’ve done it about 3 times before without a problem. Although, this time when I plugged my stick in after fixing a wiring issue it didn’t work. None of the buttons work, the lights dont come on and the stick no longer works. If anyone has experienced this or has any advice it’d be much appreciated.

Here’s some more info: I had it plugged in before it was all closed up, I might have touched a metal lead thing to a wire, but I don’t think it’d be enough to completely fry everything. Please help I don’t want to have a brick for a stick.

Fixed it, I played around with some wires and realized that one of the bunches of gray cords is pinched or something, the stick seems to only work when the bunch is in certain positions. I’ll close it up for now, but I’m sure I’ll need to replace the pcb in the near future. Has anyone done a dual mod on the fightstick Pro with a USB connector that fits in the select button slot like some of the mods I’ve seen with the TE? I can’t seem to find much in regards to dual modding on the fightstick pro.

Assuming you’re talking about a ribbon cable, it should be fine. If it gives you more problems, see if you can move it around so there’s less stress on the cable.

Dual modding the Fightstick pro is the same as dual modding anything else, here’s a great guide: Dual modding 101

That said, the easiest way to get dual compatibility would be to install a ps360+ and bypass the Pro’s electronics altogether. The USB connector you’re talking about is called a Neutrik jack, using a ps360 would also make this easier, though I would recommend drilling an additional 24mm hole rather than using the select button (with the easiest ps360 install method, you would use start+select to call up the home/guide button).

Hello everyone,

I am trying to save a cut usb cable by attaching the cut end to an RJ45 tip, following the diagram below Windows does not recognize the device and this cable was working before i cut it for stupid reasons.

Is the diagram still valid for the PS360+? I have triple checked the wire positions and crimp quality (I have tools from my network tech days). Any help is appreciated.

Yes.

You are either screwing up the RJ45 modification or your USB cable is too long and the PS360+ can’t handle it (don’t get me started on how crap that is!).

Isn’t the same diagram used in the PS360+ manual?

@gahrling Cable length is an issue aw man, I will then just use it straight to the header.

@Darksakul Yes I just plucked this out of a google search and had doubts of it’s freshness.

Thanks!

hello everybody, my first time ever posting so please forgive me if this is in the wrong section. Based off of other posts that I have seen this seems like the right place to be. I Just recently starting getting into fighting games when Injustice came out, and have been playing a lot of MKX for Xbox one. I use a Qanba Q4 stick with a CronusMAX adapter, and I am starting to really wear this thing out. Its time for an upgrade but I am at a standstill. I want to know if from anybody if you think that I should…

A. start out by modding the stick i currently have, replacing the stick, buttons, and art… gaining my experience that way…

or…

B. start out building one from the ground up, that way if there is a unforeseen problem I will still have my Qanba to fall back on…

I am stuck with this decision before I dive into my first project and any suggestions and opinions are appreciated. Thanks for reading…

  • Brody - (XBL: Mr RaWwgers)

I’ve found it easier to do a mix of A and B. I’ve been replacing the parts that are just bought and connected like buttons and sticks and putting them in my regular stick to improve that currently, while at the same time doing everything to a ground up custom box except for plugging those in, until it’s ready for that point.

so i bought a stick part (an actual stick). and the metal part that goes into the actual stick is messed up. the top 2 prongs are out of place. if i move them will it still work right. it won’t fit in the slot at all. here is a picture. it also looked worse than in this picture.

https://twitter.com/Whitedeath_9999/status/595304892551528448

thank you for the responses in advance :slight_smile:

You can bend them back into place.

my only concern is that if i do that it won’t work. can’t believe i forgot to mention that in my post lol. i would to like to hear from someone if they had to do this.

Relax, unles its an extreme bend it wont break the pin or the electric connection. (i did a 90 degree pin bend on a stick that would not fit in the case)

okay thank you. my next question is where do i find the pliers. lol thx

You should be able to do it with your fingers.

What is the stock tension on the LS-40 spring?

Just use a small flat head screw driver.