Uninstalled the drivers and reconnected it and the same thing still happened. I was thinking it may be a W10 issue like the problem people have been having with Xbone controllers.
Well I got Windows 10 running and I can’t replicate your issue
Mine worked with windows 10 also, at least before I got tired of windows 10 freezing and went back to 7.
I know next to nothing about sticks/stick modding, however I’ve been looking into being able to use a hitbox on WiiU.
I know there’s a PCB that allows Gamecube usage, but what exactly would I need to do in order to mod my current hitbox into a Gamecube-usable one?
Is it as ‘simple’ as swapping out the installed Ps3/360/PC PCB for a Cthulu one, along with taking the wiring from a spare Gamecube controller? (It surely isn’t that simple to do, but still)
Either padhack a gc pad or use the mc cthulhu with a gc cord.
If you had the ps3 only hitbox it would been a pretty simple job. It uses a cthulhu so you would just have to get the mc cthulhu upgrade chip from toodles site. Just swap the chips and solder the gc cable to the pcb.
If you really want to take the gamecube port route, the cthulu is your best bet, though beware you will need to solder for GC compatibility. Here’s an excellent guide on how to do it with an RJ45 jack, which I would highly recommend over soldering a GC cable straight to the Cthulu: RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2
Alternately, you could use PiiWii board, which would be cheaper and would bypass the need to use a GC to Wii U adapter- this would be cheaper as well (though more solder heavy).
Whichever route you take, I would suggest dual modding rather than taking the ps360 out of your hitbox. You would need to add either a DPDT switch or an Imp v2 to toggle between pcbs though.
Edit: beaten to the punch by Gummo.
Ah I see. I really just want to be able to use a hitbox for Smash games. I’m hoping to use the least complex/costly method, however I’m sure it’ll involve soldering, which I’m nervous to have to do for the first time. I may just ask someone to do this for me, I suppose. I’ll take a look thorough sellers. It might cost me less than going through getting so much equipment I’ll only use once.
the funny part is I have two TvC sticks as a collection, but I don’t like stick. I prefer hitbox.
So minor update to this, wondering if this would make any difference what might be causing this issue…
Today I had my PS4 on with joystick plugged in and played some old school NES games, and while i wasn’t even touching my joystick, i noticed it had the issue where it disconncted then reconnected. So the issue even happens when the controller is idle.
Could this point to any other type of specific issue?
Was it connected via USB or Bluetooth?
Does anyone know the pinouts for the Xbone TE2 board? I’ve taken one out of a friend’s stick and he’s given it to another friend who wants it in his. I know which connectors go to the stick, buttons and turbo panel, but I don’t know which undividual pins are which.
This is why I often recommend people to get a Multimeter
You can’t dual mod so the pinout is basically useless. Just use the stock connectors. The colors are on the inside of the te2
I have a multimeter, however all I have is the bare TE2 pcb that’s going to go into a currently empty case and nothing is labelled. I don’t have an Xbone to trial-and-error it either.
All the coloured button wires that came with the TE2 are still in the TE2, connected to a 360 fightpad and a Hori FC4. I don’t have that stick.
Not much help but you should be able to test the majority of the buttons & joystick on a PC with the latest XBONE driver.
That’s definitely a help, thanks mate.
It’s USB, it’s an X1 TE2.
I want to say its a loose connection someone with the Data - or Data Plus lines
Next time don’t delete your message in the post? Thanks
Anyone here know if there are silencer pads available for Hori Kuro buttons yet?